My plans

Gordonious

Active member
I need some input on what I am about to do plumbing wise. PVC is not all that expensive so if I don't get input soon I am just going to start connecting stuff. The PITA part will be if I start to fill the tanks and test them and find I should have placed my tanks differently on the shelf. You'll see what I'm talking about hopefully with the pics.

Please check it out and let me know what you think. I will try to update the page as I get more ideas.

http://www.gordonious.com/RC/plan.html

Jon
 
To see how my pluming will run position your mouse over the text in the table to the right of the picture. I have also added comments as to what I am going to keep in some of the tanks.
 
Ok Jon, It took me about 25 minutes to download the picture/diagram link on my snail paced dial up connection. it's a bit obscure how your total flow will go. but one thing i see, is the levelizing grey connection tubes are between tanks at the same level. I dont believe that will work with anything more than a very low flow. the tanks should cascade from higher to lower levels to keep the syphon flowing at a meaningful rate. and keep from losing your syphon by collecting a bubble and then over flowing a tank. flow should be fast and strong with a significant elevation change to sweep the bubble out of the syphon.

Don't forget i still have some sand you were looking for And a couple old PC light strips to lend you. if you need any more lumber or plywood, i have a garage full of scrap 2 x 4's and ply i scavenged dumpster diving construction sites a couple years ago. I'm trying to thin it down a bit and make room for other projects. you are welcome to what you need. i can cut to suit on my table saw. I think you need to raise some of those tanks to cascade. lets see your project work. it looks interesting.
 
I only count on making one of the leveling tubes really work for me. That would be the one between the two 20 longs. I've had them connected like that for years and currently have the output of a power head pumping from one to the other and letting the other two tubes push things back. This is a bit risky, but I just about spend all of my time in my room right now and I flush them out with a pump often.

The grey tubes are more of a back up then anything else incase the drain holes in the tanks on the left get plugged or the overflow I will be using on the 20longs stops pulling. The tubes are a back up of a back up of a back up. I don't like to take risks and never like to count on something that "should" always work, especially if I've heard of a freak incident on RC where something actually did the seemingly impossible and stopped working.

The site was updated again at 8. Sorry for the large images kaptken and anyone else running on a slow connection. I've lived with high speed for many years and stopped building my websites for slow connection many years ago as well. 99% of the people that view my pages view them on networks of T3s or cable modems at home.

Any more comments are welcome. Please let me know your ideas. More input the better.

Jon
 
I know we had some discussion a little bit ago in another thread about the strength of cinder blocks. How do you guys think about the about the shelves I've made out of 3/4" plywood and varying sized cinder blocks. We're talking 30+30gallons of salt water and I am actually considering setting up a 40 g as well. So close to 100gallons of salt water plus LR and LS...
(I've got to stir up some comments somehow. Let me know if I am giving too much or too little info to read through.)

Jon
 
Cool web page. I didnt read the above comments, but heres mine:

why not keep it simple and have one Green line up to the top tank, a couple of grey connections between the other tanks, and one red return back to the sump?

do you need to have 2 lines from the sump pump?

i guess for this to work the parallel grey lines would have to flow down, so each tank would have to be slightly higher than the other.

youre right, PVC is cheap, so you can just buy a bunch of straights, turns, and connections and dry fit it until you get something that works. dont glue until youre sure. then do a wet run with tap water before fillign the tank with good water.

use a union fitting from the sump pump so that its easy to disconnect for cleaning purposes. in fact, while they cost a bit more, unions are good to use in other areas so you can quick disconnect whenever needed.

good luck!


EDIT: after reading the above comments on the plywood shelves you might want to thnk it out first. if you say one gallon of water = 7 or 8 pounds. then add in the rock and other equipment. you might want to check if a piece of pywood can handle that type of horizontal compression. a piece of 2x4, on the other hand, compressed vertically, can hold a tremendous amount of weight. also, if the wood bows but doesnt break, that can be just as bad, as uneven support on the bottom of your tank can cause the tank to break! and, finally, you want it to be as level as possible. this is more critical for larger tanks, but nonetheless. an unlevel tank can also cause a break. so, if you use the cinderblocks, make sure the surface is level! hope that helps!!!
 
your blocks are probably stable up to 3 blocks or the first tank level. those top 4 inch thick solid blocks on edge look way too wobbly. I wouldnt be happy with them like that. when the water is in the tanks, a little bump gives it lots of momentum and they can easily topple. or just bump the column of block from the side and they fold up.
8.56 pounds per gallon of salt water. add a bit more for rock and sand. with a little sand and some rock , the 30 gallons would probably weigh 275-300 pounds each max. a 40 breeder might come to 400-500 pounds, depending on how deep a sand bed and how much rock in it.
 
The two green lines going up is something I have debated on and talked about in the past in a thread somewhere I can't find.
Last month I started looking into what I might be able to keep in my 30g breeder making it a species tank. One of the possibilities was an octopus or a cuttlefish.(DO NOT SIDE TRACK THIS THREAD TO DISCUSS THESE ANIMALS, pm me if you want more info) One of the problems with these animals is that they could possibly ink which would severely hurt the water quality and the other animals. With a two pump system I could leave the tanks as separate systems especially when the lights are coming on or off when the animals are likely to be startled. (Detailed info a couple years from now when I can afford to do this and have some more background)
The second purpose for the two lines heading up, and possibly two pumps, is that the tanks on the left will be 30gallons and possibly 40 gallons… On the right side will be smaller 20gallon tanks which will are long and shallow. So the tanks on the right side of the system will need twice the gph turn over and twice the circulation as the other tanks. If the system was cascading and all taking the same amount of water per cycle this wouldn’t be possible.
The third and final reason(can you tell I thought this out a bit) would be for error proofing. If I had a cascading system all I would need would be a problem in one tank and with in seconds every tank wouldn’t be circulating or would be losing water… I just would rather use the drilled tanks on the right and the PVC overflow system on the right and tie the two together incase one of the other is overwhelmed or completely clogged.(I also do not want to begin to discuss the PVC overflow in this thread if you have comments on that PM me.)

Thanks for the input Bryan. Appreciate you taking the time to read through things and give me feed back. Oh btw way.. lol, you should see how many PVC parts and fittings I have.
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kaptken
If I had the larger blocks all the way up would I be ok? How about the boards? 3/4" between the two supports hold 500?

Jon
 
lol! thats a heck of alot of fittings.

i agree on your last 2 points. but on your first point, you say having two pumps would allow you to isolate the one tank. but if the two pumps are sharing the same sump, this may not be true?
 
If I use cut off valves, which I plan to use many of, and two pumps it's possible.
For instance say I used the larger pump on the larger tanks and I turned it off and then closed a valve on the leveling pipes(grey) between the larger tanks and the smaller tanks. Then the smaller pump going up to the 20 longs would continue to run and all four of the tanks in "The cube" would continue to circulate.
Wish I had more experience and practice with flash would probably be easier show you with a little movie type thing.

Jon

PS.
You know no matter how many PVC fittings and do-hikies and thingymabobers I have, the one I need is always the one I don't have.
 
I left out one part I meant to say. Add a filter and a heater to the tanks on the left when I cut off the pumps, so they are individual systems with out a sump.

Bryan they would normally share the same water and the same sump, but I could decide to cut them off and seperate them if needed. If I ever did get an animal that was capable of inking when startled I may only circulate the water when I was in the room sitting at my desk.
 
Are you in a semi-permanent housing situation? Hate to have to tear it all down in a year. Maybe by the time you can afford an inker, you could afford it's own system? Just seems like a lot of over engineering for what you'll end up with. My .02
 
Jon, that big jumble of pvc and fittings tied in a knot>> is that one of those syphon overflows without the boxes? Ive seen some on the DIY forum. they look like they work ok, and you dont have to drill the tank or buy an overflow. the drawback might be all those elbows and turns cut down the flow rate.
 
Over engineer
Push it around just enough
Or under engineer

PVC is cheap and two of the tanks will be empty just boosting the water volume and stability. When I leave I don't have to set up all of it again and all it takes is a couple of buckets to empty a tank full of water.

I probably won't be getting anything like an octopus or a cuttlefish for years, but a couple years from now when I am ready I can say that I've done my research and prepared for it for years. I can tell you now that one day I will keep a shark, one of my life goals, but this is a far off thing.

I like playing with this stuff and have this whole month to dedicate to it. When I graduate I want to find a job related to studying aquatic organisms in some way and one that will hopefully eventually lead me into grad school. I want to study marine biology in grad school.

Jon
 
Hell, give it a shot then man. I'm curious to see your results! I hsve about six tanks lying around this place, maybe I'll get inspired!
 
Two related threads:<BR>
<DD> <A HREF="http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1012176"><IMG SRC="http://reefcentral.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif"> Strong enough stand? </A><BR>
<DD> <A HREF="http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1012170"><IMG SRC="http://reefcentral.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif"> Starboard under aragonite bedding </A><BR>
 
oh one other thing Jon. star board is very expensive. like $10 a square foot at the boat store. if you are really worried about it. why not place a piece of egg crate on the bottom and cover with 1/2 inch of gravel or sand.
 
I hadn't ever heard of anyone doing that until yesterday. I suppose it's a possibility. I need to buy some egg create anyways for a top to keep the eel in. I was planning on getting a glass top, but ran out of money and need to try using egg create because I will need to use it soon when I get a better lighting system on my other tanks.
I don't think I like the idea of egg crate at the bottom though. I could see little bits of it breaking off with my big rocks and being seen in the sand. Or the eel settling down on the soft sand and then a sharp line of plastic showing up at the bottom. The cutting board I wouldn’t mind so much. Since the consensus seems to be that I do not need it and since it doesn’t fit in the budget at this point and I need to get rolling with setting it up, I am just going to use the sand I have already bought.

I think later on today I am going to be very brave and finally take a shot and drilling the 40g breeder I have had laying around my room for a year.(Still has stickers on it and card board around it)

Jon
 
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