Wally.B
Active member
Welcome. I'll try not to make things boring (If Construction/Deconstruction isn't your thing), while waiting for the Tank Build.
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My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread
- Thread starter Wally.B
- Start date
Wally.B
Active member
SUMP DE-BUILD (UPDATE) ELECTRICAL/SYSTEMS Moved
Since I only had to make 6 Kids trips today, I got some work done.
It ain't pretty but at least (bit) safer. Both Tanks running.
I have access to walls now where NEW TANK will stand.
Next I RIP off Inside Drywall.
Then Possibly Steel Bottom Frame
Maybe crack open the Portal on Right Wall.
The FUN PART of this SUMP ROOM TEAR DOWN, is I hope I'll find that Fairy Wrasse that just disappeared one day and never found.
Since I only had to make 6 Kids trips today, I got some work done.
It ain't pretty but at least (bit) safer. Both Tanks running.
I have access to walls now where NEW TANK will stand.
Next I RIP off Inside Drywall.
Then Possibly Steel Bottom Frame
Maybe crack open the Portal on Right Wall.
The FUN PART of this SUMP ROOM TEAR DOWN, is I hope I'll find that Fairy Wrasse that just disappeared one day and never found.
Wally.B
Active member
15 Year old PHOTO (Helps with PLANNING Next Steps) PORTAL Support Above
Since my house was build from Scratch by Builder, I actually have detailed photo's as the House went up. (All Framing, Electrical, Ducts, Pumbling) before Drywall went up.
But this Photo is most handy for this job PRE-BUILD (Next Step).
** THAT WOOD Frame on Left was Long ago plan for a possible Door into Sump Room. Which never Happened **
** Not a bad thing that it's there since it will provide some support to the overall Tank Front Drywall **
*** KEY to all this (before someone warns me again), it the SUMP room Wall is not a Basement Support wall ****
AS SHOWN BELOW (The Metal STUDS will be CUT at the RED LINES)
I will also have to remove the 2x4 Frame for the Old 65Gallon Portal and Extend it around the corner (but a Wooden thin frame)
This is so I can make the TANK more FLUSH with DRYWALL.
It's wasn't bad having the DEEP RECESS, (with a ledge), but with Corner now exposed (FLUSH will be better)
The bottom STUDS (GREEN LINES) I can keep, (but just Flatten them against Drywall)
THE BLUE LINES are STUD above the TANK. Those will stay.
((( A few extra screws into Blue Stud Area, should help hold up drywall. I may add some strapping at to Ceiling Joices )))
** THE WALL ABOVE TANK in the SUMP room will Still have A THICK STUD WALL **
This is so I can run Electrical, and even Pumbling Above the Tank (if needed)
Since my house was build from Scratch by Builder, I actually have detailed photo's as the House went up. (All Framing, Electrical, Ducts, Pumbling) before Drywall went up.
But this Photo is most handy for this job PRE-BUILD (Next Step).
** THAT WOOD Frame on Left was Long ago plan for a possible Door into Sump Room. Which never Happened **
** Not a bad thing that it's there since it will provide some support to the overall Tank Front Drywall **
*** KEY to all this (before someone warns me again), it the SUMP room Wall is not a Basement Support wall ****
AS SHOWN BELOW (The Metal STUDS will be CUT at the RED LINES)
I will also have to remove the 2x4 Frame for the Old 65Gallon Portal and Extend it around the corner (but a Wooden thin frame)
This is so I can make the TANK more FLUSH with DRYWALL.
It's wasn't bad having the DEEP RECESS, (with a ledge), but with Corner now exposed (FLUSH will be better)
The bottom STUDS (GREEN LINES) I can keep, (but just Flatten them against Drywall)
THE BLUE LINES are STUD above the TANK. Those will stay.
((( A few extra screws into Blue Stud Area, should help hold up drywall. I may add some strapping at to Ceiling Joices )))
** THE WALL ABOVE TANK in the SUMP room will Still have A THICK STUD WALL **
This is so I can run Electrical, and even Pumbling Above the Tank (if needed)
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Wally.B
Active member
TANK (REECED Into Wall, Fush with Drywall) MOCK UP
I won't have a tank for a month, but I need a feel of my sizing for STAND.
Cut up some Scrap Foam (that I had under Carpet) to Mock up Tank Size.
But most important MOCK up is Size in SUMP Room (With Tank Receeded into Wall). Unlike before with OLD TANK.
NEW TANK is 6" deeper (24"vs18"), but I get back 4.5" Receeding into Wall, so things will cozier (yet acceptable with only 1.5" Space Loss).
IF I Don't REECEED (things will be too tight.....Based on 2nd Sump beside Tank. That may change, since I might be able to do something different......No Idea right now what)
I THINK I CAN START THE STAND.
I just need to figure out STAND HEIGHT (For best viewing)
I won't have a tank for a month, but I need a feel of my sizing for STAND.
Cut up some Scrap Foam (that I had under Carpet) to Mock up Tank Size.
But most important MOCK up is Size in SUMP Room (With Tank Receeded into Wall). Unlike before with OLD TANK.
NEW TANK is 6" deeper (24"vs18"), but I get back 4.5" Receeding into Wall, so things will cozier (yet acceptable with only 1.5" Space Loss).
IF I Don't REECEED (things will be too tight.....Based on 2nd Sump beside Tank. That may change, since I might be able to do something different......No Idea right now what)
I THINK I CAN START THE STAND.
I just need to figure out STAND HEIGHT (For best viewing)
Wally.B
Active member
Not at all. Custom Sump was built just about a year ago.
It's 55 Gallons...
Here are the SUMP Build details. (Spent a long time designing)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2570553
AND TESTING IT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI_HJ9nDyc8&t=3s
I built it oversized to handle both my OLD 65 Gallon and 90 Gallon Tank (just in case I ever wanted to join both tank into One Sump).
So for the 110 Gallon Tank it will be fine.
The Return-Pump-STOP Drain Quantity via Overflow is fine and no issue.
The issue is the SeaSwirl over drain. (which a Siphon Break hole will fix).
Wally.B
Active member
TODAY'S (Mini Project) RO System & Shelf Shift
For me this improvement is a Real Happy Moment, since I've stuggled with this problem over last year or so.
HERE was the Problem:
Neighbour through out that Car (due to broken wheel hinge). I fixed it with a simple wheel screw.
Was really handy to mix water in bucket and roll around.
BUT I Couldn't get INTO SUMP Room.
So MY ORIGINAL plan was to remove the Shelf and relocate.
But after cleaning it up, I found out I could shift it back and 1.5"
And now the CART with Bucket Fit's like a charm!!
So with Shelf all EMPTY.... I decided to install my Christmas Present (The MAX RO System)
The new System will be for our HouseHold Water, while the OLD one will remain on Fish Tank (since it also has a DI Stage).
This will help simplify cartridge maintenance.
PLUS the OLD RO Tank with OLD Tap will now give me flowing water in the SUMP room which I never had. I just had the RO reservoirs.
I've also Slept on my TANK Install Design, and figured out my STAND and Wall design.
Coming up soon, it's really simple but SOLID.
For me this improvement is a Real Happy Moment, since I've stuggled with this problem over last year or so.
HERE was the Problem:
Neighbour through out that Car (due to broken wheel hinge). I fixed it with a simple wheel screw.
Was really handy to mix water in bucket and roll around.
BUT I Couldn't get INTO SUMP Room.
So MY ORIGINAL plan was to remove the Shelf and relocate.
But after cleaning it up, I found out I could shift it back and 1.5"
And now the CART with Bucket Fit's like a charm!!
So with Shelf all EMPTY.... I decided to install my Christmas Present (The MAX RO System)
The new System will be for our HouseHold Water, while the OLD one will remain on Fish Tank (since it also has a DI Stage).
This will help simplify cartridge maintenance.
PLUS the OLD RO Tank with OLD Tap will now give me flowing water in the SUMP room which I never had. I just had the RO reservoirs.
I've also Slept on my TANK Install Design, and figured out my STAND and Wall design.
Coming up soon, it's really simple but SOLID.
Wally.B
Active member
TANK FRAMING & STAND (Dream Design)
Yup, I slept and daydream about the Stand and Framing.
Came up with something I didn't think of before. Total Flush-Wall install.
The game changer is decision to use Plywood as a FRAME bottom.
The STAND will be screwed into Frame. Kit of like a cabinet.
Also came up with a Different STAND. Instead of 2x4's (Screw & Glue) like my other previous stands, going to consider 4x4 Deck Posts. (STUDY, Looks nicer)
Here was the initial sketch before going to Home Depot.
Found exactly the materials I needed for this.
Had Depot do a rough cut on the MAPLE Plywood.
This is the Material Mock up. FINAL CUTS will come later.
Got the Stand Materials too (DECK Post and 2x4, Screws).
This is the DESIGN DIAGRAM
I have choices for later.
-> I may stain Bottom Frame and do Matching Wood Trim to create a Virtutal In wall Cabinet Look (Or Drywall Wall look)
-> I will make portal larger than Tank viewing area.
-----> Tank will slide in from REC ROOM SIDE
-----> Then enclosed with Hinged access Panels (LEFT,TOP,RIGHT)
-> Height is flexible since no final cuts yet.
-> I can go 100% FLUSH (0% Receeded) or slighting in wall.
------> The EURO REEF TOP will protect front wall from Salt Creep/Spills.
-> May have room for Kitchen Sump (Partially hidden under stand)
Yup, I slept and daydream about the Stand and Framing.
Came up with something I didn't think of before. Total Flush-Wall install.
The game changer is decision to use Plywood as a FRAME bottom.
The STAND will be screwed into Frame. Kit of like a cabinet.
Also came up with a Different STAND. Instead of 2x4's (Screw & Glue) like my other previous stands, going to consider 4x4 Deck Posts. (STUDY, Looks nicer)
Here was the initial sketch before going to Home Depot.
Found exactly the materials I needed for this.
Had Depot do a rough cut on the MAPLE Plywood.
This is the Material Mock up. FINAL CUTS will come later.
Got the Stand Materials too (DECK Post and 2x4, Screws).
This is the DESIGN DIAGRAM
I have choices for later.
-> I may stain Bottom Frame and do Matching Wood Trim to create a Virtutal In wall Cabinet Look (Or Drywall Wall look)
-> I will make portal larger than Tank viewing area.
-----> Tank will slide in from REC ROOM SIDE
-----> Then enclosed with Hinged access Panels (LEFT,TOP,RIGHT)
-> Height is flexible since no final cuts yet.
-> I can go 100% FLUSH (0% Receeded) or slighting in wall.
------> The EURO REEF TOP will protect front wall from Salt Creep/Spills.
-> May have room for Kitchen Sump (Partially hidden under stand)
Wally.B
Active member
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2018 (Out-With-The-OLD.....In-With-The-NEW)
Few More Hours till 2018.
I've pretty well left the OLD TANK to Rot. Basic Water parameters all fine.
Like Christmas Bulbs burning out one by one, some of the Frags are Bleaching. Cyano patches here and there.
Today I lost my PACMAN which was one of my favourites and doing VERY well up last time I checked (Few days ago).
Could be the fact that I never transferred over my T5 lighting. Could be that I haven't cleaned the Full Algae Scrubber. Could be that I didn't transfer all of my circulation pump. Could be shock of transfer. Too much Epoxy used. Could be nothing. Don't care anymore.
THIS TELL ME one things about 2018++ and the NEW TANK BUILD.
I want nothing to do with the OLD TANK and it's miserable past.
Somehow, some way....I will make sure the new Tank is NEW...Inside and out.... (A "FULL" GENESIS restart) .
-> Few days ago I added a bunch of Astrea Snails.
-> I started minimal Vinegar dosing
-> Will just let it do what it naturally will do, and prepare to move on to new tank.
HAPPY NEW YEAR Everyone!!
LOOKING FORWARD To a NEW Everything in 2018.
Few More Hours till 2018.
I've pretty well left the OLD TANK to Rot. Basic Water parameters all fine.
Like Christmas Bulbs burning out one by one, some of the Frags are Bleaching. Cyano patches here and there.
Today I lost my PACMAN which was one of my favourites and doing VERY well up last time I checked (Few days ago).
Could be the fact that I never transferred over my T5 lighting. Could be that I haven't cleaned the Full Algae Scrubber. Could be that I didn't transfer all of my circulation pump. Could be shock of transfer. Too much Epoxy used. Could be nothing. Don't care anymore.
THIS TELL ME one things about 2018++ and the NEW TANK BUILD.
I want nothing to do with the OLD TANK and it's miserable past.
Somehow, some way....I will make sure the new Tank is NEW...Inside and out.... (A "FULL" GENESIS restart) .
-> Few days ago I added a bunch of Astrea Snails.
-> I started minimal Vinegar dosing
-> Will just let it do what it naturally will do, and prepare to move on to new tank.
HAPPY NEW YEAR Everyone!!
LOOKING FORWARD To a NEW Everything in 2018.
Wally.B
Active member
WELCOME to (2018) My Resolution [ ** MORE PATIENCE ** ]
Hello and Happy New Year 2018.
My New Years Resolution is to exercise more patience, and some degree of Restraint.
I'm pretty sure the lack of both has been a contributing factor to my SPS failures. I've been accused of TOO MUCH TINKERING (which I Love).
So BEFORE I touch a screw or piece of anything on the New Build, I'm going to Model and plan things properly. (To get the next 15 years done right)
I started Learning Google SketchUP.
It's really tough at the beginning, and the 3D model of (TANK and STAND Posts) above took me 2 hours to get right.
But as you learn the tricks and proper 3D build steps it get's faster.
The power of SketchUp is amazing. No harm in learning this too for some future 3D printing possibilities.
This Modelling will allow me to brainstorm some possible ideas for the Virtual In-Wall Cabinet, and the SUMP Room Layout.
Hello and Happy New Year 2018.
My New Years Resolution is to exercise more patience, and some degree of Restraint.
I'm pretty sure the lack of both has been a contributing factor to my SPS failures. I've been accused of TOO MUCH TINKERING (which I Love).
So BEFORE I touch a screw or piece of anything on the New Build, I'm going to Model and plan things properly. (To get the next 15 years done right)
I started Learning Google SketchUP.
It's really tough at the beginning, and the 3D model of (TANK and STAND Posts) above took me 2 hours to get right.
But as you learn the tricks and proper 3D build steps it get's faster.
The power of SketchUp is amazing. No harm in learning this too for some future 3D printing possibilities.
This Modelling will allow me to brainstorm some possible ideas for the Virtual In-Wall Cabinet, and the SUMP Room Layout.
Wally.B
Active member
CAREFUL (Easy) TEAR DOWN (Progress) Hanging Stud Support (Extra Protection)
I've pretty well done all the Easy Tear Down work (Inside and out)
Biggest challenge is dealing with TWO RUNNING TANKS.
** A only NEW BUILD WOULD BE WAY EASIER **
INSIDE SUMP ROOM
OUSIDE OFFICE/REC ROOM
Before I cut all the STUD, I noticed the TOP remaining Stud could use some extra Hanging Support.
I just added some STRAPPING to the CEILING joices.
** PLENTY OF SUPPORT HERE.....That is the MAIN STEEL HOUSE BEAM **
No cost to add this since I'm just re-using the Steel Stud Pieces that I remove from SUMP room FRAME.
THE NEXT HARD PART is Cutting the METAL STUDS.
I did one, and they are razor sharp at edges. ** MUST BE CAREFUL with proper thick Gloves **
Then I need to protect the sharp exposed edges (somehow).
I've pretty well done all the Easy Tear Down work (Inside and out)
Biggest challenge is dealing with TWO RUNNING TANKS.
** A only NEW BUILD WOULD BE WAY EASIER **
INSIDE SUMP ROOM
OUSIDE OFFICE/REC ROOM
Before I cut all the STUD, I noticed the TOP remaining Stud could use some extra Hanging Support.
I just added some STRAPPING to the CEILING joices.
** PLENTY OF SUPPORT HERE.....That is the MAIN STEEL HOUSE BEAM **
No cost to add this since I'm just re-using the Steel Stud Pieces that I remove from SUMP room FRAME.
THE NEXT HARD PART is Cutting the METAL STUDS.
I did one, and they are razor sharp at edges. ** MUST BE CAREFUL with proper thick Gloves **
Then I need to protect the sharp exposed edges (somehow).
Wally.B
Active member
Everything is looking killer. Great well thought out setup. My OCD is counting the days until you redo your wiring
You won't have to wait too long.
This de-construction Stuff isn't my thing, but I'm learning as I go along.
Room Setup/Electrical-Electronic-Layout/ is my passion.
This is What I did for the Sump Room back in 2014
(Plan is to make things even better this time, after learning dislikes using room for last 3+ years)
I learned that tight conduits are a pain for maintenance (ie removing a heater, pump, etc), so won't make that mistake this time.
That last reno success was use of the White PVC Deck Posts, for A verticle Condiuit and a shelf.
GOT THOSE POST at Home Depot on Clearance for $5 dollar each.
Still have 4 left, and I'm sure I'll put them to good use.
I have all the Electrical parts for the Wiring work.
New GFCI circuit since I've had a few Overload Trips (with Rec-room Lighting etc)
Soon as the Bad Walls are down, and things clean, I'll start the wiring.
Things are going to start clicking together soon.
The only delay is back to work tomorrow. Christmas break is over.
Wally.B
Active member
NOTE OF CAUTION (ELECTRICAL WORK)
Before I move on I just want to make a comment on Electrical work.
Water and Electricity is a DANGEROUS mix. Salt Water is even worse.
Anyone reading this thread should not consult my BUILD as proper building code practices.
Although I have a Degree in Electrical Engineering I do have a cousin who is a Certified Electrician that I will be consulting with to ensure I do things properly.
I have visited some reefer tanks that don't install Ground Fault outlets since they sometimes falsely trip and disrupt tank operations.
I am totally against that (Safety bypass), and (for Added Safety) all my tanks, sumps have Titanium (NOT COPPER) Grounding probes to Ensure GFCI outlets works properly.
(I have experience proof that both GFCI and grounding is a must, since a Urchin once bit thru a 2 prong probe (no ground) heater cord....Exposed tank water to 120Volts, but did not trip GFCI protection. WHen I touched the water in sump I got a shock.....When I added the GROUND Probe the GFCI tripped). That convince me to have GFCI/Ground Probes everywhere on or near my Fish Tanks)
I've also read on the Forums that some folks are against ANY Grounding probes since they can introduce currents drains into Tanks and inhabitants. I don't agree with the comments at all (regardless if true or not). Human safety outweighs a fish or snail.
In my case I plan on overdoing Electrical Safety Standards since your life and your loved ones is at risk when you have your arms in Salt Water, during Equipment failure, a flood/spill.... and even worse standing on a concrete floor that is not insulated.
Onward....
Before I move on I just want to make a comment on Electrical work.
Water and Electricity is a DANGEROUS mix. Salt Water is even worse.
Anyone reading this thread should not consult my BUILD as proper building code practices.
Although I have a Degree in Electrical Engineering I do have a cousin who is a Certified Electrician that I will be consulting with to ensure I do things properly.
I have visited some reefer tanks that don't install Ground Fault outlets since they sometimes falsely trip and disrupt tank operations.
I am totally against that (Safety bypass), and (for Added Safety) all my tanks, sumps have Titanium (NOT COPPER) Grounding probes to Ensure GFCI outlets works properly.
(I have experience proof that both GFCI and grounding is a must, since a Urchin once bit thru a 2 prong probe (no ground) heater cord....Exposed tank water to 120Volts, but did not trip GFCI protection. WHen I touched the water in sump I got a shock.....When I added the GROUND Probe the GFCI tripped). That convince me to have GFCI/Ground Probes everywhere on or near my Fish Tanks)
I've also read on the Forums that some folks are against ANY Grounding probes since they can introduce currents drains into Tanks and inhabitants. I don't agree with the comments at all (regardless if true or not). Human safety outweighs a fish or snail.
In my case I plan on overdoing Electrical Safety Standards since your life and your loved ones is at risk when you have your arms in Salt Water, during Equipment failure, a flood/spill.... and even worse standing on a concrete floor that is not insulated.
Onward....
Wally.B
Active member
I guess so. But Urchins just chew on whatever you give them.
Ever notice if you buy a quality pump like a HYDOR Koralia.
They come with a coil ribbon that wraps (Teflon or something) which coil around the power cord (the part you put into the tank). CALLED A URCHIN GUARD, but applicable to any critter that may peck at the power cord.
Wally.B
Active member
CREEPY eek: FREAK OUT TIME ) Behind Drywall Over TANK
I started Cuting out the Drywall In SUMP ROOM (to prepare for Electrical and Plywood Panelling).
Didn't expect this. (Dried out from who know how many years ago)
We have Had about 2-3 occasions over last decade where we had a mouse family get into House. I thought I caught them all in Mouse Traps.
Appears (These Young ones 3 in ALL) fell in from TOP of Ceiling and couldn't make it up the Slipper Metal STUDS.
eek: FREAK OUT TIME ) Behind Drywall Over TANKI started Cuting out the Drywall In SUMP ROOM (to prepare for Electrical and Plywood Panelling).
Didn't expect this. (Dried out from who know how many years ago)
We have Had about 2-3 occasions over last decade where we had a mouse family get into House. I thought I caught them all in Mouse Traps.
Appears (These Young ones 3 in ALL) fell in from TOP of Ceiling and couldn't make it up the Slipper Metal STUDS.
Wally.B
Active member
ALMOST BUILD TIME (SUMPROOM - TankFront-Wall - Purged and Ready)
This was probably the hardest work I've ever done (Mainly to keep both tanks running, and some distance limitations on power Cords/Apex temp probe/ph-probe).
A solution was to hand both Apex EB8's off the CELING. and hand some power cords of the Lighting Fixture hooks.
The Front Wall is ready for build up/Electrical.
Far Right NEW TANK Exposed side is NEXT.... (Not much work) just shift things up.
NOW I NEED TO THINK ABOUT STAND HEIGHT, and will post some details about my options next.
This was probably the hardest work I've ever done (Mainly to keep both tanks running, and some distance limitations on power Cords/Apex temp probe/ph-probe).
A solution was to hand both Apex EB8's off the CELING. and hand some power cords of the Lighting Fixture hooks.
The Front Wall is ready for build up/Electrical.
Far Right NEW TANK Exposed side is NEXT.... (Not much work) just shift things up.
NOW I NEED TO THINK ABOUT STAND HEIGHT, and will post some details about my options next.
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