My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (II) Build Thread

[Rakie]

Sounds good!

Yeah I most notice swimming zones with my wrasse, and the bigger the tank, the more obvious it is. My melanurus would cruise the bottom, the fairy wrasse are in the bottom 2/3 of the tank, and the flashers are usually in the upper 2/3 of the tank. It's really interesting. If you had a really tall tank like 3' or so I'm sure you could do some really interesting stuff with fish swimming zones.

 

[Wally.B]

New QT (Fish) Wrasse, and Anthias

So one Anthias died barely in QT (few hours) last night.
My suspicion was that it got hurt since A Rock Fell on it during LFS capture process. I noticed, but it kept swimming so didn't say much.

Got a replacement today (last one). Not Free, but reduced below yesterdays sale price.
I had to since I wanted a pair, and maybe a 2nd wouldn't come in next while.

Here is Tri-Color Wrasse and the pair. Black Capped Basslet pops out and protects the Mountain Cave.

Rakie, you are ID expert. What type is this Anthias?

I swear it is pinkish, but in photo's comes out orange.
It's my QT light, since the Wrasse is Blue as posted above, but in photo just above it is green.


I got a TIP from Tenurpro, to add more flow to suspend food.
Appears that is working to get Anthias to eat (kind of all the time nibblers).

Any advice on Anthias Care? Never had one.

 

[Wally.B]

Tunzie (Care Magnet Strong) Glass Cleaner (AWESOME Mag Power, Trustworthy) Great with Office Side Access Door.

Cracked open the Box with the Tunzie Care Glass Cleaner.
Really Happy.

Magnets are strong and handle my 1/2" glass No Problem.

Cleaning edges are Hard Plastic with Bite, but no scratch. Even has a Sand Gard on Wider Blade.

Really useful to have on end wider, and other end more narrow Blade.

Rounded edges made going around corners smooth, effort free.

Doesn't have to be a Float Glass Cleaner since it will never fall off.

My side Door is perfect since I can clean all 4 sides (two rooms) (no removing)

Narrow Handle part, Slick Design....Looks good enough to Leave in Tank (visible).

Worth Every (High Price) Penny to me.

 

[Wally.B]

T5 Reflectors (NOW Properly Installed) Oops

Pictures say it all.

Tank looks better now, and that Clear Silicone Corner is looking really nice with the Reflector correction (Glowing Crystal Look)

Wish I had a PAR Meter to test tank Lighting. (coming soon)...

 

[Rakie]

Red Saddled or Saddleback Anthias I think. See the yellow dotted-striations on the side, going from head towards the tail? There's a few with the "saddled" back stripes, so it's the striated dots that make me think it's a saddleback. Some really rare ones look surprisingly similar

Example of one that's kind of similar (not a dead-ringer though) -- Lori's anthias

Head shape is different, and the yellow/gold striations on the side are less pronounced, which can be augmented by photomagic or lighting.


Also I found out I do have a friend with a tricolor (solon) wrasse. Apparently he's exceptionally well behaved for his size, maybe even a bit timid. She told me her YWG and Clown pushed him around at first.

 

[Wally.B]

All Good New Rakie.
Anthias could be Saddle backs.
Since the ones I got were in specialty Tank.
They were $69 each Regular Price, and if not for the Midnight Madness sale, they would be out of my Price range.

Glad the Tri-Color Wrasse is timid.

I was looking at interesting Wrasse, and guy said (stay away).
I can't remember name. SabreTooth, or Horn, or something.
Mega Predator Said if I put him into my tank, I'd have no fish left in short time.
He pointed to the teeth and I got his point.

 

[Wally.B]

Delaying OLD Tank merge (High N&P) doing clean up before hand

Did water tests on 65 Gal. (No WC for months)

ALK was 6.1 so easy fix to bring to 7.5 No corals

But Nitrate was a firm 50 ppm.

Phosphate was 0.48 ppm

i can't join tanks since bringing the 110G online would be around 50% WC and would only bring down N to 25. And P to 0.24.
That would not be a good starting point for new setup.

With lots of lighting in new setup.....I would probably end up with a bad algae bloom on my hands. Plus bringing down levels to SPS quality would be a long stuggle with more fish.

So I put on my GFO reactor (fresh media) to bring down P.
And for N I added two NEW bags if Chemipure (regular).

If needed I will do water changes and wait till 65G has N around 5 and P close to 0.1. (Then join in 110 G tank and N drops to Below 2.5 and P to around 0.05)

This way joining two tanks will bring over biology and not bad chem.

Good plan?

Or waste of time??? Should I just start up new tank fresh, bring over lots of live rock, and let it do a small quick cycle with whatever is active in sump and rocks???? Just one yellow Tang to start.

 

[Wally.B]

The PUZZLING Part if N & P has been so high, IS WHY IS MY ALGAE SCRUBER NOT PRDUCING Algae. I haven't put back my booster LED so I will.

I should test Potassium since that could be a factor if all has been striped from water.

Overall this mystery makes me want to lean towards starting the new tank FRESH and not bring over 65G's Bad Old History. (Which is the Last Thing in the World I want....that would be depressing after so much effort to restart the GENESES PLAN!!!

 

[tenurepro]

Delaying OLD Tank merge (High N&P) doing clean up before hand

Did water tests on 65 Gal. (No WC for months)

ALK was 6.1 so easy fix to bring to 7.5 No corals

But Nitrate was a firm 50 ppm.

Phosphate was 0.48 ppm

i can't join tanks since bringing the 110G online would be around 50% WC and would only bring down N to 25. And P to 0.24.
That would not be a good starting point for new setup.

With lots of lighting in new setup.....I would probably end up with a bad algae bloom on my hands. Plus bringing down levels to SPS quality would be a long stuggle with more fish.

So I put on my GFO reactor (fresh media) to bring down P.
And for N I added two NEW bags if Chemipure (regular).

If needed I will do water changes and wait till 65G has N around 5 and P close to 0.1. (Then join in 110 G tank and N drops to Below 2.5 and P to around 0.05)

This way joining two tanks will bring over biology and not bad chem.

Good plan?

Or waste of time??? Should I just start up new tank fresh, bring over lots of live rock, and let it do a small quick cycle with whatever is active in sump and rocks???? Just one yellow Tang to start.

Why not just move the rock and switch the sump to new tank. I don't think you would need to cycle at all give all the bacteria in life rock. Then use the 65 gal as another qt system


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wally.B]

Why not just move the rock and switch the sump to new tank. I don't think you would need to cycle at all give all the bacteria in life rock. Then use the 65 gal as another qt system

I would prefer that, but I thought tank would cycle hard.

It that works then I better get started assembling my Rock Scape.

I assume you mean "Move Rocks and Fish".

Thanks.

 

[Wally.B]

Anthia Update (2nd One Dies) There is hope for the 3rd (Thanks to Tenurepro's Insight and a My Tiger Copepod Farm)

So when the First Anthia Died right away, I though it was rough treatment getting netted at Fish Store.

However today a 2nd one died.

I show Photo to Tenurepro and right away he said "looks thin, died of starvation".

That got me (An Anthia Newbie) to get cracking reading up Eatting Habbits, and diet of Anthias.

I originally heard that they need to eat often, so I thought that meant standard Food.

I tried all kinds of foods, and fish were eating in QT, but the Anthia was chasing food, but not eating. He would try some small pieces and spit them out. That confirmed that they were not eating, at least regular food yet.

I found this article that stated more.
https://www.coralreefing.com/anthias-care/
Recommended best starter food would be "Tiger Copepods".

Wow, I have a Copepod Farm full of them for my Mandarin.
I siphoned off a good Portion of Tiger Copepods and dumped it into QT.

HE WENT NUTS chasing food (Maybe Eating, but he never stopped till light went out.
Here is a video.
https://youtu.be/RKcWRQ6HUXY


Any other TIPs from Anyone?

 

[Wally.B]

Faith Restored in Neptune Systems (Apex Support) Amazing Response

So I was getting Ticked off that my Apex VDM module arrived DOA New in box.

Ruined my weekend to finish things up and expected a long dragged out return process, since Supplier said strict policy with Neptune System that even new Units need to go thru Apex Support.

At first there was some back and forth question in the Support ticket I raised.
I started getting more upset that this would take forever since their questions seem to point to people that don't know electronics and wiring (which Isn't me).

I posted clear evidence that no problem on my wiring or my understanding.

With this 100% Proof photo of my testing analysis.

Right away, I got a cross ship RMA #,
which means with a $ Deposit (that I'll get back if my unit isn't smashed, or full of water) they would ship me a replacement right away. When I get it and all things work, I ship back the defective one (free Shipping back).

But the Best part is I asked if I could get the Classic Version of the VDM module which is Black to match the rest of my Sump Room BLACK Classic Apex Stuff.

I got a Call from Apex and they said they had one, and would ship it, along with a T-Shirt for the incovieniece.

That made my Day, and a few days delay is worth getting that Black Unit, since I wanted one from the start (but none for sale used)

Cool. Kind of Glad I got a DOA Purchase.

 

[Rakie]

Yeah, anthias can be picky feeders. Mine is a bit of a different species, a Sunburst Anthias -- He eats bits and pieces of everything, especially eggs.

 

[Wally.B]

Yeah, anthias can be picky feeders. Mine is a bit of a different species, a Sunburst Anthias -- He eats bits and pieces of everything, especially eggs.

Eggs??? What kind of eggs?

I am starting up a Live Brine Shrimp Breeder. Might work too, since I can't drain all my Copepods (Madarin's Food)

 

[Wally.B]

Workstations (6-Way Setup) A bit more Prepared for the Tank Build.

I have to admit I got caught off guard, Unprepared for the New Fish.
The Fish Sale distracted me.

So I hacked together some flexible options to work on Rock Scape Building and have some Fish QT/Isolation.

This give mes "A-LaCarte" flexibility. I can hook up New Tank whenever I feel ready (Moving Rocks over slowly, and Fish staged)

I'm glad I never throw things out, when my wife keep telling me to.


So NOW I'm going to disconnect the OLD 65 Gal and have it running on NEW SUMP II

What happens I will figure out as I go along.

 

[Rakie]

Eggs??? What kind of eggs?

I am starting up a Live Brine Shrimp Breeder. Might work too, since I can't drain all my Copepods (Madarin's Food)

You could up your pod production -- But for the most part think of pods as a treat. Most people's anthias eventually take to Frozen foods, and sometimes flake and pellets.

Unless you're target feeding the mandarin, there should be a good supply floating around, and unless the Anthias refuse to conform, it won't need to be fed directly like that.

I will say when you FIRST get any fish, especially Anthias, getting them to eat is the most important part. All I think non stop is "Calories into fish", I don't worry about overfeeding, I don't worry about polluting my water, I just keep repeating "Calories into fish, calories into fish", and I'll feed upwards of 6+ times per day. When I do this I'll make sure to skim kinda wet to make up for the influx of nutrients.

Which Eggs? Rods eggs, Reef Nutrition R.O.E., V2O Reef Caviar (NOT The "soft freeze" it contains alcohol), OVA.

My Sunburst likes: is partial to V2O Mini Mysis, and Spiralina Brine & Mysis which is fortified with phytoplankton (or so says the package).


Sorry Wally, I'm a wordy guy so it's sometimes easier if I highlight questions or answers, LOL. Too easy to lose answers in text form


That said, question for you! Would you mind elaborating on your pod rearing? I've been looking to do something similar myself but haven't looked into it enough. Some pics and explanation would be great.

 

[Wally.B]

You could up your pod production ....
...

Sorry Wally, I'm a wordy guy so it's sometimes easier if I highlight questions or answers, LOL. Too easy to lose answers in text form
...


That said, question for you! Would you mind elaborating on your pod rearing? I've been looking to do something similar myself but haven't looked into it enough. Some pics and explanation would be great.

Rakie,
Babble on all you want. It's probably LIGHT compared my LONG & ENDLESS babbles.
and BOLDing does help. I add photos as much as possible, and Title each post.
I hope my efforts to Post Clearly are good enough. Wish someone would comment to improve my posts. Post Less??? Good enough clarity? What could I change to improve?

For me, no worries. I read every word you (and others) write and look forward to more good advice. You seem to be well researched, and have good resources and friends with Everything but the Kitchen Sink (in the reef world).

Too bad I never read your Eggs answer. I went to store and picked up some Reef Nutrition Arti-pods. Boy my other fish went nuts for the stuff. The QT Fish sniffed, but no bites. (YET).

Honestly I have no idea if that Anthias is actually eating. Look like he is darting around to catch food. But the stuff I see floating he isn't swallowing.
Maybe he is eating tiny stuff I can't see.

As far as COPEPOD Farm. I wrote up a thread. (3 years ago, when I started and got traction)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2463026

I've been running one for few years. One bottle of Tigger pods, and I'm on great, great, great, Great grandkids from that same bottle.

I stuggled on first two bottles, but it's actually easy.

This would be my update after doing it for a while:

-> Ideal container size is 2 Gallon Rectangular Glass Tank (LID IT for less evaporation and no contaminants)
-> Don't waste time on heater (not needed).
-> Water changes (I noticed help, if every 3-4 months when Farm get's filthy).
-> Don't remove the sludge each harvest. (Or you will wait long for next batch)
-> Aeration with bubbles (no stone),
-> and (100% for long term success) get the two different Micro sieves that I mention to catch them (180 Micro for mom & dads) (75 for babies). Always put back babies into farm.

 

[Wally.B]

I will say when you FIRST get any fish, especially Anthias, getting them to eat is the most important part. All I think non stop is "Calories into fish", I don't worry about overfeeding, I don't worry about polluting my water, I just keep repeating "Calories into fish, calories into fish", and I'll feed upwards of 6+ times per day. When I do this I'll make sure to skim kinda wet to make up for the influx of nutrients.

That's exactly what I started feeling over the last couple of days.
He's running around all day looking for food. I hope (food) they Pods are there with my Pod dump last night.

But I've been really cautious to not over feed (polute) the small 10G QT since it only has a Trickle type Carbon filter (no sump) which I matured the filter pads in 65G for a week or so.

I am scrambling to re-program my DIY top up machine to do auto water changes in QT (which will act better than an skimmer to keep Amonia, Nitrite, and all other junk in check).

I also got a bottle of Reef Nutrition Tiger Pods, to re-fresh my farm and some for the QT (Anthias)

I even was thinking your Mandarin point. If I have kept a mandarin for 2-3 years, then that Anthias should be ok once he is in the DT and sump with whatever is keeping mandarin alive.

I KIND OF WISH I delayed on the new fish, to be more prepared, but it's pushing me to get things done. Faster So fine.

For now (tomorrow), I'm going to do what you say.....
Feed often, many things.....and control the Tank pollutants (with Top up Water changer), till Salinty gets to 1.025 (currently 1.022) and in about 3 weeks get the Anthias over to DT (if it makes it that long).

 

[Rakie]

Your posts are fine Wally. There's a ton of information an nuances in this hobby. Sometimes it's just not possible to be as concise as we'd like!

So since you seem a tad bit worried about your QT --

Some Simple QT Improvements: Bio Media -- if you felt like investing in your QT a lil, I would get some Seachem Matrix and leave it in your sump. Take out a handful whenever you need the QT. Having cycled and extremely porous media laying around never hurts! It would definitely help keep things stable in the QT. And you can get a liter of the stuff for like $12 on Amazon.

Next, you can step up your HOB. I love the Seachem Tidal power filter. It's built with a sicce pump, it has a surface skimmer which helps with the nastiest part of the water, it has a tab to keep your heater so it's not as visibly in tank, and it has an area to fit matrix or other bio-media of your choice.

This is the first time I've ever seen an improvement with HOB filters. Seachem Tidal Filter

The smallest one is rated to 55 gallons (Probably more like a 29g QT) and its like $40.

It may not seem like much overall, but if you're worried about your QT, a small HOB upgrade and some cycled bio-media might be all you really need.

 

[Wally.B]

Funny (Took me 20+ years to Realize THIS ) YOU Can't have two Running Overflows on ONE TANK

So I made up enough water to have the 2nd SUMP(Mega Tupperware Bin) for the OLD 65 Tank.

Got skimmer setup and the 10 G mini Sump Baffle box.....
..... (to keep the Crappy Pressure Sensitive RLSS DB8i Skimmer balanced).

DB8i needs to be in 7-8 inches of STABLE water, and not much pressure variation to work stable.
I Kind of hate it. Powerful/Variable Speed via Apex, but not easy to TUNE.

Instead of moving the 1st Overflow Hose over (I thought I could use my Hang-ON Overflow..... And Run Both Sumps for a little while).

I had things ready, and DUHHH!!! It won't work.

The Overflows are at Different Heights, and my Built in Overflow is LOWER.

You can have ONE OVERFLOW, and TWO DRAIN in OVERFLOW to feed TWO SUMP. But I don't have a Double Overflow.

Even if I could get the level I figure it would be near impossible to tune.

Water always flows to the lower / Less Resistance Path.

Not a waste of time, since SUMP II will become my QT tank, and I plan on shutting Down the 10G QT since it doesn't have a skimmer, and 65G will be better for having Rocks and stuff for the NEW FISH.

Small delay again.....