my stand

[ThrowinRoost89]

for a RR AGA 120g, 48x24x24

bottom of the tank is 40" off the ground. 55g sump in the stand.



got the design from here, im shure yall seen it. i changed up on the building process tho.

i alsmost made it to to wide to fit through the doors, my dad caught it when i got back into town today lol


and im finishing the moulding tomorrow, and puting the top rail on.

also picking up the router bits to make the raised panel doors.



i just wish i had a tank to put on it :smokin:

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

 

[tolo13]

nice work!

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

also, what kind of tangs you guys think would go in here?
i know a naso wont : (


im thnking yellow and a powder brown and a gold rim.... im not shure if i can hold 3 tangs in a 120? i have to research more, but i think all 3 stay around 9in.


others i like
powder blue
purple tang
maybe a hippo tang







is a blonde naso smaller than a regular naso?SWF.com mas a smaller minimum tank size for them

 

[K-ROK]

Wow - looks really nice! Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[MJAnderson]

Looks good. Are you for hire when I get my new tank? =)

 

[thirty5]

Dude,
you do very nice work. Easiest way to tell is how nice and tight your miters look. Im very impressed!

You should build stands for people.

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

i had a little bit of a learning experience with this one on the miters lol the first couple on the left column were kinda gay, but the trim cover it up. they are not all perfect, but im happy with it.



im ganna put some outlests in the stand, and trying to figure out where everything is going to be routed.

im putting a light under the tank to light up the stuff when im doing something, plus another light clipped onto the sump for the fuge.
also im puttin outlets in the stand, how many you think i should put in, and how many of them switched?
i will also have my coralife digital time plugged in for all the lights.

im thinkin 3 regular's plus 1 switched

couple questions
should i use 2 return pumps in the sump, or just 1 T'ed off in the middle?
what kind of light is needed for a fuge? will haligen work?

 

[MJAnderson]

If you put outlets under the tank, go with outdoor ones. Remember though that with your sump in there, salt spray will get on most things and metal will rust.

I have one pump T'ed off to regulate flow. Increased the turnover in my sump without having to deal with the extra bubbles from pushing it through the overflow.

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

im going to change the outlet in my room to GFCI, and the outlet box's are plastic. im not shure of the placement yet tho. i have to figure out where my pipes are going

im thinking about putting them all the way in the top inside corners, out of the way. and using hooks to keep the wires from hanging.

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

honey maple stain

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

anybody interested in this custom stand when its finished?

ive got about $200 or so dollars in wood sofar, and i still need the maple for the doors and top railing....

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

here is the pluming for the sump. im just using the 20g to test for leaks. so the pluming after the ball valves are temperary.

board across the back is reference of how high the 55g is.

union couping before

union after

this is the only thing i dont like

i could not find any slip-barb adapters around here and had to use threaded barb adapters... its looks like crap.



also, whats the best way to reduce noise on the drain pipes?

the one on the left with the 90 at the end is pretty quiet. is that the best way?

any special things i should plan on doing for the drains?
i was thinking about using one of those sock things with the plastic ring on the top aquatic tech sells. and puttin it in a vertical piece of PVC and having the drains dump into those. hopefully to reduce bubbles and noise.

 

[itZme]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10874180#post10874180 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ThrowinRoost89

this is the only thing i dont like

i could not find any slip-barb adapters around here and had to use threaded barb adapters... its looks like crap.

Looks nice. Someone will get a steal on that if you sell it that cheap. It looks like you already bought the 120g. Are you gonna stick with that size tank? I think you will like it better than a 6' tank except the fish will have less room to get out and swim unobstructed. I would just be careful about getting any fish that grow to 6"+.

The 4' tank is nice because you can light it with only 2 MH bulbs or 48" T5s instead of trying to add another 2' of coverage with another MH or T5 setup.

You could clean up the barb fittings easily by using a 3/4" male pipe thread to 3/4" PVC for the return and a 1" male pipe thread to 1" PVC adapter on the drain. Then your PVC will go all the way up to the bulkheads without any hose or barbs. If you are worried about separating it someday just glue in a union into each line under the tank. Then you could undo the union and unscre it from the bulkheads.

Here's a pic of the fittings I am talking about.

Hope that helps.
-- Kevin

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

i used those adapters for the barbed fittings. but, once i got em glued to the bulkheads and tried to take the bulkhead out. the large nut on the bulhead will not clear the fitting, so it will not totally unscrew..... so i mine as well of just glued the pipe straight to the bulkhead lol.




how would this design work out?

i got the pic from here somewhere... but my tank is 21in tall.
i will have a bubble trap on both the fuge and skimmer section, using a SS125anyone know the recommended debth of water it should be in?

 

[itZme]

So you have slip fitting bulkheads instead of threaded? I thought you were trying to adapt threaded to PVC. If you have slip bulkheads it is pretty hard to get anything other than what you did that can come apart totally. Once you get fittings glued in and water in the tank it would seem that if you needed to take the bulkhead out it would be no biggie to cut them apart and buy a new bulkhead. When you get into draining and tearing apart the entire tank the cost of another bulkhead is the least of your concerns

The sump design you showed is almost exactly like the ones I have made and they worked great. The only difference being the standpipe in the fuge. I don't understand the purpose of having a standpipe since the water will flow over the glass and have good surface skimming. The standpipe seems useless to me and a bit of work involved.

As far as your noise and bubbles go, I have all my tanks plumbed using the "Herbie method" and have absolutely ZERO noise or bubbles in the system. I have a lot of drains and some even run from the kitchen to the basement with no air or noise. Here's a link to the thread and I could explain more if you have any questions

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

oh yes, i shoulda said that the bulheads are slip.
i bought the tank used and the 2 drains, allready had slip barbs in them. so i had to rig the rest of it.



thats alot of pages lol the tank had the megaflow kits on em, and those are silent.
i was lookin throught the pages and the tecnique is to close the drains so only water comes out?

 

[itZme]

The idea is to remove the durso standpipe and slow down the large drain with a gate valve and then use the second smaller tube for an emergency drain. There is no water going down the emercengy drain unless the main drain backs up for some reason.

The thing you would have to change is that the smaller bulkhead becomes the emergency drain so you need to do an over the back return out of some 3/4 or 1/2" PVC.

If you are happy with the Megaflow dursos then I would just leave it but once you see what it's like to have a totally silent drain and no salt creep in the sump area you might never go back.

 

[ThrowinRoost89]

the gurgling problem im having is the actual output pipes in the sump. those make alof of noise from the ait bubbles and just the water rushing out of them. i have the drains 1 1/4 pipe after the bulkheads, and the 2 drains are T'ed together incase one cloggs up. thats why i made them bigger, so one drain could handle both 1in bulkheads.

is the AGA overflow kit the reason i have this problem?



whats the best setup for the outputs in the sump?

1 output in the skimmer, 1 in the fuge.