Ready, here they are:
Quiet overflow:
only 2 kinds, cheaper than Tidepool's overflow:
1. Quietflo-600â"žÂ¢ Overflow, link
Quote:
"This overflow assembly is rated to handle up to 600 gallons per hour (GPH), and requires approximately 4" of clearance behind the aquarium. The Quietfloâ"žÂ¢ series of pre-filters are the most advanced on the market, incorporating flush-mounted lids and specially designed Backdraft tubes to ensure the quietest pre-filter operation of any overflow assembly today.
This includes: pre-filter skimmer box, pre-filter siphon box, acrylic mounting bracket (fully adjustable), a 1" polypropylene reinforced bulkhead (no cheap PVC connectors like other overflow assemblies on Ebay), a 1" PVC connection for drain hose, foam pre-filter sponge, 2' of Backdraft tube, 3' of black drain hose (black color discourages growth of algae in the drain line), siphon u-tube, installation manual, and all plastic nuts and bolts. "
2. PVC DIY overflow, pretzel type, also requires less wall clearance, than usual:
See photos at the bottom of the page , more:
Any thoughts, visible pitfalls?
The house walls are thin, and I prefer not to irritate neighbors and
myself.
Possible problems in case of power failure:
I asked this question for a PVC type on the other forum, one more suggestion was added:
"You could burn your pump up FAST.
two small float switches:
One for the main display to kick the pump off if the water level rises past a certain point and one in the sump to kick the pump off if it drops below a certain point."
What do you think?
Should be nano-tank above the 90g?
Usually I'm trying to keep the same water level - less troubles in connecting, the same components can be reused in another setups.
My usual the simple way to connect two tanks, U-tubes or 1" clear vinyl tubing (depends on the distance between tanks). U-tube leads into micron sock, and return pump (same type of connection) forces water from the sump.
Below shown 90g tank:
Was, when system was simple:
Just for fun, another tank, same principle:
90g now, after needs arose:
More clean view, before new skimmer, coraline and green rock:
Where nano-tank will be relatively to 90g tank:
The only place, what was left for a nano-tank near 90g tank, is on the left. Around 2 ft, above canister filter. Will be front access only, alas.
Nano-Cube should fit. Here it is:
sideview, corals are open:
front view, daytime:
Plumbing questions:
What is name of detail:
1. used to connect flexible tubing to the rigid U-tube - slip inside-fitting one end (I think, it's what's called here "male" connection, but generally prefer not to mix organs with plumbing :eek1: ), barbed end - to the flexible tubing. Should it be glued into U-tube, or what?
2. used to make transfer from smaller diameter flexible tubing (1/2" from the Maxi-Jet) to the larger diameter flexible tubing? My guess, the both ends should be barbed. I had seen several times, that increasing diameter of the tubing right after pump is better for the flow.
3. connecting return from the flexible tubing to the (I think) another U-tube, but smaller than outflow in diameter. Same as point 1?
Pardon my ignorance, may be anything better than that?
Relative to the skimmer:
Should nano-tank's overflow go to the main tank, or directly into the micron sock in the sump?
The fish is too big to eat these particles, may be corals (softies and euphyllids).
Quiet overflow:
only 2 kinds, cheaper than Tidepool's overflow:
1. Quietflo-600â"žÂ¢ Overflow, link
Quote:
"This overflow assembly is rated to handle up to 600 gallons per hour (GPH), and requires approximately 4" of clearance behind the aquarium. The Quietfloâ"žÂ¢ series of pre-filters are the most advanced on the market, incorporating flush-mounted lids and specially designed Backdraft tubes to ensure the quietest pre-filter operation of any overflow assembly today.
This includes: pre-filter skimmer box, pre-filter siphon box, acrylic mounting bracket (fully adjustable), a 1" polypropylene reinforced bulkhead (no cheap PVC connectors like other overflow assemblies on Ebay), a 1" PVC connection for drain hose, foam pre-filter sponge, 2' of Backdraft tube, 3' of black drain hose (black color discourages growth of algae in the drain line), siphon u-tube, installation manual, and all plastic nuts and bolts. "
2. PVC DIY overflow, pretzel type, also requires less wall clearance, than usual:
See photos at the bottom of the page , more:
Any thoughts, visible pitfalls?
The house walls are thin, and I prefer not to irritate neighbors and
Possible problems in case of power failure:
I asked this question for a PVC type on the other forum, one more suggestion was added:
"You could burn your pump up FAST.
two small float switches:
One for the main display to kick the pump off if the water level rises past a certain point and one in the sump to kick the pump off if it drops below a certain point."
What do you think?
Should be nano-tank above the 90g?
Usually I'm trying to keep the same water level - less troubles in connecting, the same components can be reused in another setups.
My usual the simple way to connect two tanks, U-tubes or 1" clear vinyl tubing (depends on the distance between tanks). U-tube leads into micron sock, and return pump (same type of connection) forces water from the sump.
Below shown 90g tank:
Was, when system was simple:
Just for fun, another tank, same principle:
90g now, after needs arose:
More clean view, before new skimmer, coraline and green rock:
Where nano-tank will be relatively to 90g tank:
The only place, what was left for a nano-tank near 90g tank, is on the left. Around 2 ft, above canister filter. Will be front access only, alas.
Nano-Cube should fit. Here it is:
sideview, corals are open:
front view, daytime:
Plumbing questions:
What is name of detail:
1. used to connect flexible tubing to the rigid U-tube - slip inside-fitting one end (I think, it's what's called here "male" connection, but generally prefer not to mix organs with plumbing :eek1: ), barbed end - to the flexible tubing. Should it be glued into U-tube, or what?
2. used to make transfer from smaller diameter flexible tubing (1/2" from the Maxi-Jet) to the larger diameter flexible tubing? My guess, the both ends should be barbed. I had seen several times, that increasing diameter of the tubing right after pump is better for the flow.
3. connecting return from the flexible tubing to the (I think) another U-tube, but smaller than outflow in diameter. Same as point 1?
Pardon my ignorance, may be anything better than that?
Relative to the skimmer:
Should nano-tank's overflow go to the main tank, or directly into the micron sock in the sump?
The fish is too big to eat these particles, may be corals (softies and euphyllids).