NanoReef needs Help Lots of Q's!!!

[triciod]

I have a stock 24gal Nano Cube running. I've been running for about a week or so. Here are the exact specs:

1st Chamber: dual stock sponge filter w/ micro blue&white filter material.
2nd Chamber: stock carbon sack, bio-balls (which i've been told i should remove along with the ceramic rings) why is this btw?
3rd Chamber: stock pump and 100watt heater.

Inside The Tank:
5.5 lbs live rock
2 chromis (for cycling purpose)

Now here are my problems:

First, i must address the temperature issue. My nano is running from about 76 degrees F to 80 degrees without the aid of the heater i purchased. I see this as a problem being that i really can't control the limit of total heat. What could be the problem here? Would it be the stock pump or the sealed hood?

Second, i've just noticed some brown specks in the live sand bed, of what i think is an algae, but im not sure. What could this light brown be? What should be done about it? Personally, I've hardly been feeding the fish for the purpose of keeping the nutrients in the water down. I've feed them all of once thus far.

Third, I was curious as to how long i should be running my PC hood lights for on a daily basis? I trying to avoid algae blooms such as addressed in the problem above.

Fourth, on my live rock i've noticed some tag-along life. I've seen one four legged star fish, about half a dozen brownish purple anemones (do i need to feed?), and some small feather dusters. Now, i don't see these as a problem specifically, but i was wondering if they were going to survive on their own...or what i personally need to do to keep them flurishing?
I also have some growths on my live rock that i was wondering about. The first growth noticed is of a light purple color, it isn't hairy it seems crusted on. The second growths seem to be small horny red growths dotted around the rock. What could these be?

Fifth, im going to be purchasing in a very short while a RO/ dual DI system. Once running and adding water, what changes can i expect to see with the new filtered water as compared to just plain tap water?

Sixth, I've noticed some people talking about protein skimmers w/ nano aquariums. Is this needed, if so what brands should i be looking at?

Does anyone know about those NANOCUBE brand stands? Are those any good?

That should be all for now. All thoughts and advice are welcome THANKS!

 

[Zero-2-Sixty]

mkay, heres my $0.02

1. 76 is a little cool, but 80 is just fine heat wise, 78-80 would be ideal. and if you see it necessary you can remove the stock pump and put in a maxi-jet, that (ive heard) can lower the temp

2. most likely diatoms, natural for a new tank.... and please, feed your fish more.

3. i run my lights 10 hours a day, but an algae bloom in a new tank are normal, and i think, healthy

4. hitch-hikers are always fun, but you need to post a pic of your starfish to make sure its not harmful. the anemones sound like aptasia, a major pest. but like i said, post a pic. and featherdusters are good to have, theyre filter-feeders

5. tap water is awful. really awful. i would never use it in my tank because of phosphates, silica, and lovely ph problems. avoid it when ever possible

6. not necessary but helpful, the Fission nanoskimmers arent great but they do fit in the back of the 24g Nanocubes

toss in a little more live rock and remove the bio-balls and your good

 

[Henry22]

10 hr light cycle is a little long. I would lower it, maybe to 7 or 8, with the actinecs running 30 minutes before and after the main lights

 

[triciod]

how exactly do i insert a picture onto this thread?

 

[mister crabs]

change the light schedule like henry suggested....everthing else seems ok....maybe set a heater at 78 so that u only have a 2 edegree swing. And a week is WAYYY to soon to add fish unless you were using established sand water and rock. When your cycle hits full swing and the ammonia spike hits those fish are going to die. I know you said that they were in there jsut for cycling purposes but giving a guaranteed death sentence for ANY living thing is horrible......you could have achieved the same results with a peice of raw salad shrimp decaying in your tank or nothing at all.

 

[Doglover_50]

I have a JBJ nano 12 DX and 16 gallon, both for about 2 months. Much of my comments mirror Zero's. See below.

1) Temp: Solution is to UP the temp, then you thus control it so it won't drop. Temp in reefs is big source of debate. Bornman book suggests more recent science is to keep it at natural temps, which are 80-84. But you are safe anywhere 78-84, just try to limit variability to around 2 degrees, if possible. [bornman suggests that reefs kept at 78 may bleach if temp. hits 86, while temps kept 80-84 don't bleach until around 87 or 88. I see most likely problem as heat (not cold), so I choose to keep it a litle warmer just in case. Thus, up your heater a little would be my rec., so at night it kicks in when water gets to 79 or 80. My nano this summer has gone as high as 86.5 (my fault)--no damage. In the heat I am using evaporative cooling, just prop open my lid to keep temp from jumping up.

2) Agree--sounds like brown algae. Apparently ALL new tanks get brown algae, and lots, so expect that to get worse, it will cycle and then improve. Scrape the acrylic, don't worry unless it doesn't go away (assuming you are not using tap water. If using tap water, then worry).

3) responses are already showing you the debate on this topic.
Here's my take on it as a relative newby. earlier posters are probably right that in the long run maybe 10 is too much, or 8 is ideal, or whatnot. But it ain't going to matter in a new tank for a few months. anywhere 8-11 is probably fine. Just watch your corals, you'll start to learn when they are happy and plump. My 12 gallon (established--bought from prior owner) gets just over 10 hours, and everything is happy. I'm not sure with algae blooms if less light makes a big difference unless you black out the tank for a week. But check with others on this topic.

The tag alongs should be nothing to worry about (should--not guaranteed). Take care of your corals and these things will thrive.
Water parameters and things like calcium and plankton, etc.. to feed corals. Many opinions on what one should add--leave that for another thread. I keep it basic--Purple Up and Marine Snow 2 times per week--and my tank is very colorful and healthy. They do sound like nuisance anenomes--you will eventually hate them. Again, I wouldn't worry about them for now until they spread very fast. Certain critters like peppermint shrimp eat them and some type of nudibranch i can't remember. the only harm they do is when they overgrow the stuff you paid for! So eventually you'll want to eradicate, but no big worry for now.

Growths--don't know, though if it's circular the purple one may be coraline algae (a good thing). But it seems early in your tank to have that yet. Otherwise DK.

Key regarding ro/di is: DO IT! it'll prevent future probems you are BOUND to have if you keep using tap. Essentially cleaner water keeps bad and nuisance algaes from growing. With a nano, I buy mine at my lfs for 35 cents per gallon.

No, if you don't over load fish, I think most people would tell you you don't need a skimmer--just keep up regular water changes, don't overfeed fish. I'd guess 3 or 4 small fish would be safe in your 24. But start slowly....

I'm no pro, but having luck with my 2 nanos. Good luck

 

[fool4reef]

I would suggest not to use the sponge filters in the back. It could build up Nitrate which would feed the alge bloom. If you keep them you must rinse them out about every 3 to 4 days. Also you might look into getting a CPR AquaFuge Refuguim. Works great to help alge growth in the main tank.

 

[Jester]

nothing like your first tank... you can look at the LR everyday and get excited... you'll always find something new, each time you look at the tank... hehehee... good luck and keep us updated...

Jester

 

[kass03]

Everyone does things different but I run my lights on all my tanks 14 hours. 14 hours actinic and 12 daylight. The actinic go on an hour before and an hour after the daylights.

I had a brown algae bloom for about 2 weeks when I first set it up but the clean up crew took care of it. Astrea snails really help.
If your cycling the tank though don't add them until it's done.

I wouldnt remove the bioballs and ceramic yet because you don't have enough live rock.
You really need at least 1 lb per gallon.
The reason people remove it is because it can trap detritis and make your nitrates high.
I would add more rock and once the tank has cycled slowly remove the bio media but not all at once.

I use the sponge but rinse it real good in my old saltwater everytime I do a water change (usually once a week).
I also use chemi-pure for my carbon.

As for the temp 76 is ok. I ran my tanks at that for over 20 yrs lol.
Last yr I went to Dr. Fosters coral conference and they said they ran theres at 78 so I moved mine up to that.
This year when I went they said they changed it to 76 as the corals do better lol.
Mine do run higher in the summer so I kept them at 78 to try not have too much fluctuation.

As for hitchikers have a look at melevs and see if you can identify them.

http://melevsreef.com/id/

Heres my 12 gal. nano set up almost 7 weeks ago.
It never cycled though because I used rock and sand from my 150 so I could add alot of frags from my other tanks much faster.

kass

 

[noschmo]

You need to go out and get some of the fine reef and marine books and read them. Then read thru this forum carefully then ask questions. That is the way to success. You don't set up the tank first then ask the questions. Its vice versa for better success.