Need a little help understanding all the testing.

[Bikerharold]

:worried:
Getting started in this new hobby I was told to purchase a API Saltwater Master test Kit. It would check my PH, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels.
This I did and when I started my tank checked them regularly. Then purchased my first coral and was told I would have to check for Calcium as well. Purchased the API Reef Master Test Kit (name sounds impressive) and started checking my Calcium, Carbonate Hardness, phosphate and Nitrate levels as well. Now the Local Fish Store tells me that I should be checking my Magnesium levels as well. What is the real story. When I test all level appear to be in the right limits, how many more test need to be done??
:spin2:

 

[SnoopyDaPimp]

For a new tank make sure your are checking your ammonia, nitrates and phosphates (especially if using dry rock). If you are planning on keeping coral you HAVE TO MONITOR your Ca, Mg, and Alk. Plenty of threads in the how to section on chemistry of your fish tank.

 

[SnoopyDaPimp]

For a new tank make sure your are checking your ammonia, nitrates and phosphates (especially if using dry rock). If you are planning on keeping coral you HAVE TO MONITOR your Ca, Mg, and Alk. Plenty of threads in the how to section on chemistry of your fish tank.

By monitor I mean watch until you can dose properly to ensure that your tank has the proper nutrients

 

[dyazdani]

Keeping Ca, Alk, and Mg in line is critical to the health of the corals which is why your local store made the recommendations. The values will change over time and you want them to be as stable as possible.

Phosphate and Nitrate will contribute to algae growth so you want to minimize these nutrients.

 

[Sk8r]

Test for nitrate and ammonia during cycle. Once cycle is through, test for alkalinity every week, keep it around 8.3 using DKH Alk Buffer, or some other additive. Do your weekly water changes, and if you have a lot of algae, you need to remove phosphate (GFO reactor does that); if you start stony coral or clams you also need to test calcium and mg as well, and supplement as needed---this can be automated by putting a substance called kalk into your ATO topoff water reservoir. As your water evaporates and the ATO replaces it, it'll also be dosing calcium.
You DO need an ATO (autotopoff) if you don't have one.
I use Salifert brand tests, which give a numeric result.

 

[Bikerharold]

ok Thanks for the information. Was looking for information and found a product Hanna Checkers to be used for Calcium, Magnesium has anyone used this product. Looks like it is easier to use than the test kits that I have now.

 

[Bikerharold]

Thanks SK8r
Was just looking at an auto top off system at the local fish store. Will also look into Kalk also will look into a GFO reactor. Will ask at store about this as. What does the GFO stand for.

 

[Sk8r]

be sure you need a GFO first, if you have algae run amok. But you do need an ATO or be chained to your tank, daily feeding it fresh water to make up for evaporation. Doesn't have to be spendy, just reliable.
The Hanna checkers I think are ok---but spendy. You may spend 18 a year on, say, a salifert alk test. And you need a supplement. I think my alk test has gone 2 years. That's a very ballpark figure. It all depends on what you ultimately want to grow in your tank: if stony coral, alk-mg and cal; if softies, alk is often enough, because softies don't use up calcium and water changes are generally all you need.

 

[Bikerharold]

Will go with the GFO first because I do have extra algae growth. I'm told that because it is a new tank and it has just cycle this is normal. The tank has cycled but I don't see any less algae growth. Have installed a good number of tank clean up crews and have a couple of hammer corals and a couple of Goniopora corals. With a GFO reactor can you put the GFO media and the Carbon in the same unit or do you need separate units.

 

[Sk8r]

I'd run GFO first. Carbon isn't generally needed for stony coral. For your stonies, you need pretty high lighting. Hammer is easy: keep it lit, keep the nitrate at about 5. [not 50]. And it'll feed itself.

Unfortunately goniopora is rated as 'difficult' or 'expert', to 'impossible' by many reefers, though some succeed with it. If you can trade that fellow back for a nice frogspawn your life might be easier. But here is an article on care and feeding of goniopora. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/nftt/index.php

 

[Bikerharold]

SK8r thanks again for the info. Really love the colours of my two gonioporas, hoping everything stays healthy. Will take a look at a frogspawn, but hope I can keep the gonioporas happy. Thanks again.