Need Help on lights

[draleigh]

I am going to be changing out my lights to start adding coral to my tank soon. Right now i have 4 48" T5's (fish only right now). I am going to take those and use for suppliments. So here is the question. What would be better for a 180

2) 400w HQI's (not sure on brand or color yet)

or

3) 250 HQI's (thinking Phoenix 14k)

I was thinking the three as it would be more even coverage.

And correct me if i am wrong but the HQI's and electronic ballast although more expensive initially the ballast run cooler, quieter an cost less to run then the magnetic's and the bulbs are brighter and last longer then the SE moguls? Is that correct?

 

[draleigh]

by the way, not sure on what i am going to put in the tank yet. I am thinking zoo's

 

[Shaun120]

If only zoos are going to be the predominant coral then you definitely don't need 400w HQI. If your tank is 24in deep then the 250 will support most types, if not all corals you will want to keep. Unless your tank is around 36in deep then 400w are totally overkill. Go with the 250w HQI, it will also save you a ton of cash in electricity costs.

Of course someone will probably disagree but my 120 with 250w HQI x2 has great growth rates with the SPS I predominately keep.

 

[Fish'InMN]

I'm assuming you have an AGA 180, which is 72" long, 24" tall and wide, and has two braces:

I would definitely go with the 3x 250W DE over the 2x 400W DE. As already mentioned, you don't need high light for zoanthids, you'll be able to keep any coral you want, and you'll save a few bucks on electricity. However, halides do put out a lot of heat (just like all types of lighting), so you will need to consider the effects of three halides over your tank. It will most likely mean an increased rate in evaporation, even more so if you choose to cool the tank with fans, which is a very common and efficient way to do so.

Then again, my 250W SE with IceCap ballast and 14k Hamilton bulb in an LIII mini reflector has full coverage over my tank at about 14" bulb height from the water. I see only a single degree temperature increase at the end of the halide photo period and still have sufficient PAR to grow anything I want.

So there are other options out there, even if some people tell you it won't work.

Hope this helps.
Marty

 

[draleigh]

Thanks guys. Yes, i have a 72x24x24 and a 5"-6" DSB. So that really makes the water depth only 18-19". That being said and the advice above i am going to go with the 250W. I have an older oceanic tank that has a singal huge glass center brace. So the middle light has to penatrate that as well, but i am not so worried about that as i get in there and clean it every couple of days right now. Keeping it cool i don't think will be a problem. I have the tank on the main floor and the sump in the basement. The basement is always cool and the heaters are running down there all the time right now keeping it warm. (1) 300w heater and (2) 200 watt heaters. I plan on building a new canopy that is about 18" tall. My current one is only 12" as i originally planned on running all T5 lights, but i am not happy with the way it looks right now.

I may just start with (2) 250w DE HQI lights one on each end and then add the 3rd one later when i get a little more $$$.

Thanks again for the advice

 

[Fish'InMN]

A single center brace on a 72" tank, that's almost a dream come true right there! I think starting with two will be a good idea, even more so if you get some decent reflectors as you may realize you don't need that third one after all...

Keep us posted!
Marty