Need help wiring my float switch into an extension cord

biggredd

New member
I am making my auto top off out of a 5 gallon salt bucket. I drilled a hole in the center of the lid for the cord and the tube to come out of. I have an extension cord and a float switch but I don't really know how to wire it into the extension cord. I have no problem doing dyi projects, just need to know how it is wired.

any help?

the float switch has 2 wires and it appears the extension cord has two wires as well. Thanks.

Hoping to get this operational tonight.
 
Assuming the float switch is properly rated to handle the voltage and current you want to put thru it, cut the black wire in the extention cord and splice in the float switch between the cut black wire.
 
Switch rating means nothing other than just that. Most float switches are rated as be fully submersible and should be connected to a low voltage relay.

Don
 
The extension cord is two wires that are fused in the middle. The entire cord is white. How do I know which is black? Do I split the extension cord for a short length and then cut into one side and see what color the wire is?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9340935#post9340935 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Donw
Switch rating means nothing other than just that. Most float switches are rated as being not fully submersible and should be connected to a low voltage relay.

Don
 
Don,
Neither post really makes sense to me. Should I purchase a relay? If so, I assume that will probably hook up the same way.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9341451#post9341451 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by biggredd
Don,
Neither post really makes sense to me. Should I purchase a relay? If so, I assume that will probably hook up the same way.

Yes you should be using a low voltage relay. Do you know how a relay works? Sorry it would help to know how much knowlege you have.

Don
 
For conversation sake I know very little about relays. I was hoping I had everything. Maybe you can fill me in on what I need to do now.

right now I have my 5 gallon salt bucket, a hole drilled in the center for the power head electrical cord and the tubing to go to my sump. I have a float switch and plan to make the stand for it to sit in the sump tonight. I have an extension cord as well to cut into as needed. I had a general idea prior to using a relay. Just need some help with the wiring from here.
 
Here is a simple SS relay.
dcacrelay.jpg


You need 3-28 v dc power adapter(wall wart). Connect the + of the adapter to the relay prong labled dc+ Connect the - side of the adapter to one wire of the float switch. Connect the other float wire to the relay prong marked dc-.

Now look at your power cord One side usually has a ribbing lines this is the hot side. Cut the hot side only. Connect one to one of the two remaining pins on the relay. Connect the other to the final pin. Package that mess up into a plastic box and your set.

Don
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9343223#post9343223 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Icefire
It can be done without a relay, just less safe. Most float switch are rated 300VAC.

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This is probably the most common switch used.

Specifications:
max wattage: 50W
Beware spiking voltage from devices rated less than 50W
max switching voltage: 220VAC
max temperature: 90 degrees C / 194 degrees F
specific gravity: .8*
normally closed**
Warranty: Defective parts replaced up to 90 days from purchase
Warnings:
using the switch to control a pump or solenoid? Beware of spiking voltage
do not submerge without sealing top to a point above liquid level. See our i-float tubing adapter
 
A couple of comments:
Float switches should not be used to directly control pumps. In addition to the potential issues of running 120v through your sump, most are not designed to handle the current and voltage needed to run a pump. (Also note that AC motors and other inductive loads cause voltage spikes when they start and stop that can generate voltages significantly larger than their operating voltages) these issues frequently lead to failure of the switch that in many cases manifests as the switch stuck in the 'on' position, potentially causing a flood or catastrophic drop in salinity.

Second, to the OP, your questions indicate that you don't have the electronics knowledge or experience to build a project like this. I'm not saying this to be condescending, just as an observation and out of concern for your safety. I strongly encourage you to buy a commercial ATO system rather than risk a flood, a system crash, or worst of all, death.
 
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