Need input on stand plans for a 300g

goodguy

Member
I am planning on building a stand for a 300 gallon peninsula tank. Measurements are 60"x48"x 34" high. I plan on basically placing two of RocketEngineer's diagrams together to form my stand. There will be a 2x4 center support on each "red" upper rails directly in the middle of the tank. There will be one 2x4 support on each outside 5' upper rail "red" span about 20" from the end.

StandTemplate.jpg


Here is the catch, is it ok to use 2x4 wood on the "red" board? Why, because I would like to have a higher opening on the doors to access the sump. If I can't, I will have to use 2x6 on the top "red" boards. I can either use 2x8 or 2x6 on the yellow rails. The stand cannot have a total height higher than 34" because it will not fit in my entry door. I plan on building and painting outside in the garage.

Please let me know soon. Tank will be in my house in a few weeks. I PM'ed RocketEngineer already, with no response yet.
 
I build my 300DD tank stand with 2x4 and 2x6. I used only a 2x4 across the top since my stand doubles as a desk. IMO all the support needed is on the 4 corners. If your stant is out even a bit and there is a pressure point in the middle you could crack the tank or bust a seam.

I often get a good laugh out of these over built heavy stands, I can tell you only from my own experience that it is not necessary . Here is a link to my build showing a few pics of the stand http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2101774&page=2

Good luck

Will
 
Need input on stand plans for a 300g

The stand looks like a great start.... Since most of weight is transferred vertical....My recommendation is using (1) 2x4 and (1) 2x6 sandwich together to form the legs. These will rest on the floor vs. On top of the 2x4 as shown. Will there be access from the "end" 48" side? If not I would use 2x6 on the returns and keep the 2x4 to allow for a wider opening. As far as the upper "red & yellow" you can use the 2x4 as shown I would just laminate another on for a total thickness 3" wide. The inside framing would actually rest on the inside vertical leg support. Which will interlock the entire frame together. I personally believe in building a little above "just enough" cause when the tank is on the stand and full of water there is no turning back and saying "Damn I wish I would have...." As long as it meets your requirements for gaining access to equip, plumbing. You should be good to go!
What are your finishing plans for it? Concealed Panels, doors, open ? Just need to make sure you framing will accommodate what you want to do. :-) Following!
 
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Running the math, the red and yellow boards should be 2X8 if they are employed as show in the diagram. The rest can be 2X4.

If there is a center support under the red boards, yes you can get away with 2X4 everywhere. If you were to add a third red board in the center of the 48" width and support both ends of this with corresponding legs (turned sideways to go under both the red and yellow) then the three reds and two yellows can be 2X6. Personally, I would go with three red boards.
 
I just got done talking to another member and he recommended the same thing about laminating two 2x4's together to form my "red" beams. This should give it the added strength needed.

The tank will be skinned in 3/4" oak plywood and oak solid wood doors.

I plan on placing plywood on the top with Styrofoam, which was recommended by the manufacturer of the tank. I also plan on placing plywood on the bottom with 2x4's underneath to hold the sump.

There will be no doors on the one viewing 4' end and the return and drain side is going to have no skin and be open for easy access. I plan on placing 3 store bought doors on each 5' side. Two doors with no center brace, then a center brace and the other door. This is why the center brace for the 5' side will be set at approximately 20" of the end.

Bubblewood, just wondering why I should not place the legs on the 2x4's?
 
For a 1500 pound load over a 53" span (60-3.5*2), a 2X4 will deflect ~.54", a doubled 2X4 will deflect ~.27" because you have twice the wood. A SINGLE 2X6 deflects ~.14" which means it is TWICE as stiff as the doubled 2X4 and almost FOUR TIMES as stiff as the single 2X4. Laminating is nice but it doesn't drastically increase the stiffness of the boards being used. Using wider boards has a much greater impact on the stiffness of the beam.

If you are not going with doors on the 4' end, go without the center brace and use three red beams. That would give you a 53" opening on each side which is easily covered by a pair of doors and would provide much better access. Is this going to be a peninsula tank? It has the right dimensions for one.
 
RocketEngineer,

Yes this will be a peninsula tank.

Am I correct with what you recommend?
2x6 on the red rails and have a third red rail in the middle of the 4' span with vertical legs on the ends.

With your numbers I will have to go with the 2x6's. I rather be safe than sorry.

Thanks for all the input.
 
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