Need some design help with my sump

[jmccown]

First of all take a look at my sump, it's a 75g clarity plus acrylic tank.

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It isn't the best setup right now as it pretty much just polishes via the media drawers. I am going to place two CSS220's in there probably on each end so I'll have to revamp the whole sump, basically. I am also going to redo my plumbing after listening to Phil's demo on putting pipe together, I only glued mine, didn't use cleaner. So I was thinking putting the skimmers on the far ends of the sump, each side and putting a media basket in the middle of the sump that has a drawer and then put my return pump wherever there is enough room left. Has anyone ever trimmed the top of these tanks and how safe would they be if they were trimmed? Any suggestions?

Jason

 

[joyski58]

I'll bet you'd get more responses from the main Reef Central on this matter. You should post there, too.

 

[1package]

75g - looks longer than normal 4 foot tank.

Plumbing looks good,

A couple comments, since you asked..........

The 90s you used will restrict the flow on both the returns and the drain lines, perhaps 45s. Your return pump with the T and the 90s, plus the verticle rise is going to be pushed hard. If you do not improve the plumbing you will need quite the pump to make up the loss, maximize your number or water turns. The flex hose, if it has a drop/rise in it (low/high) in it will collect air and cause an occassional gulping sound that you will not like. I can not tell if there is a union under the valve for the return, likely so, should be if not.

The drains likely only are 600 g/hr. I would consider moving them each to one side as opposed to each side, just to reduce the cleaning headache - filter sock, media, whatever, plus free up room for skimmer, frag out if desired, etc...

I think you are doing fish only but either way I would consider plumbing the return pump external (heat), I did not wish that I had of.

I do not know the water level plan, keep in mind the distance the water drops from the drains (splash = salt creep) as well as the level you will need to prevent a flood if power is lost.

If you stick with your current design, you may want to consider some type of bubble trap (wall) to the inside of each drain area to force the water/bubbles up before entering the return area.

Hope it helps.

 

[1package]

75g - looks longer than normal 4 foot tank.

Plumbing looks good,

A couple comments, since you asked..........

The 90s you used will restrict the flow on both the returns and the drain lines, perhaps 45s. Your return pump with the T and the 90s, plus the verticle rise is going to be pushed hard. If you do not improve the plumbing you will need quite the pump to make up the loss, maximize your number or water turns. The flex hose, if it has a drop/rise in it (low/high) in it will collect air and cause an occassional gulping sound that you will not like. I can not tell if there is a union under the valve for the return, likely so, should be if not.

The drains likely only are 600 g/hr. I would consider moving them each to one side as opposed to each side, just to reduce the cleaning headache - filter sock, media, whatever, plus free up room for skimmer, frag out if desired, etc...

I think you are doing fish only but either way I would consider plumbing the return pump external (heat), I did not wish that I had of.

I do not know the water level plan, keep in mind the distance the water drops from the drains (splash = salt creep) as well as the level you will need to prevent a flood if power is lost.

If you stick with your current design, you may want to consider some type of bubble trap (wall) to the inside of each drain area to force the water/bubbles up before entering the return area.

Hope it helps.

Last - Phil is right about the cleaner, would not worry about it since not under pressure though.

 

[1package]

75g - looks longer than normal 4 foot tank.

Plumbing looks good,

A couple comments, since you asked..........

The 90s you used will restrict the flow on both the returns and the drain lines, perhaps 45s. Your return pump with the T and the 90s, plus the verticle rise is going to be pushed hard. If you do not improve the plumbing you will need quite the pump to make up the loss, maximize your number or water turns. The flex hose, if it has a drop/rise in it (low/high) in it will collect air and cause an occassional gulping sound that you will not like. I can not tell if there is a union under the valve for the return, likely so, should be if not.

The drains likely only are 600 g/hr. I would consider moving them each to one side as opposed to each side, just to reduce the cleaning headache - filter sock, media, whatever, plus free up room for skimmer, frag out if desired, etc...

I think you are doing fish only but either way I would consider plumbing the return pump external (heat), I did not wish that I had of.

I do not know the water level plan, keep in mind the distance the water drops from the drains (splash = salt creep) as well as the level you will need to prevent a flood if power is lost.

If you stick with your current design, you may want to consider some type of bubble trap (wall) to the inside of each drain area to force the water/bubbles up before entering the return area.

Hope it helps.

Last - Phil is right about the cleaner, would not worry about it since not under pressure though.

 

[1package]

Do not know how I got the multiple post - it took 5 minutes - sorry must be a system glitch.

 

[jmccown]

Thanks for the tips, that's definately something to consider. BTW, the tank is 5' long I should have put that in the post above. I'll try to do a diagram of the plumbing for a better idea. Give me a few and I'll post back up.

 

[Rod Cobble]

I like baffles in a sump between water in and out. Run skimmer near the water in part of the sump and allow water to go through baffles to allow for the expelling of bubbles so they will not return to main. Also nice if you could allow enough room in center of sump for future refugium. use baffles to section off.

 

[jmccown]

I think I will do that after taking in 1packages idea. I've been thinking about it quite a bit. Instead of using both overflows as a intake and return utilize one side as an intake and the other as a return. Possibly use a filter sock from the returns with two skimmers (one large in the future) in the same chamber then put baffles in for a large refugium area then more baffles for the return chamber. I might look into an external pump. BTW, these are older pictures, all that has changed is that my submersible pump has been added and one skimmer is in there.

How would I properly plumb the return pump into two 1" lines on the left side? Would I use a "T" with elbows going up to the two returns?

 

[phljess]

T's will work but you would be better flow if you use a Y. You will prob have to get one through http://www.savko.com/index.asp because you will probably not find one around here. You may find one at Bert's, not really sure though.

Also as Lloyd said, it would be a good idea to put your drains on one side of the sump and allow more room for other things you may want to add to the sump later.

If I were you I would change the mag 12 out for a good external pump. I suggest the use of an Iwaki or a reeflow product. I have used both and they are good pumps.

 

[fishmon]

If I were you I would change the mag 12 out for a good external pump. I suggest the use of an Iwaki or a reeflow product. I have used both and they are good pumps. [/B][/QUOTE]

What he said, even though mag's say they can be ran external, they will leak eventually, trust me on this one , great internal pumps though, besides the heat.