New 40breeder help

[diverbh4]

I just got a new 40b tank with a sump but I can't fit my Red Sea Berlin skimmer in the sump. I was using it as a HOB skimmer on my last tank...so should I just make it a HOB on the sump and stick the pump in either the drain section or return section?
There is a bubble tower section and I think that if I remove that I can stick the skimmer in the return section (where the bubble tower is).
I am also looking for suggestions for a return pump for this setup just going straight from the sump to the top of the display, but have never had to figure out what pump I should get.

Second issue is lighting. I am still debating on T5 or MH light, budget is a factor. I have read that some people go for a 24-30" T5 4-5bulb setup instead of a 36" fixture. Doesn't this create dark spots on the sides, and would one MH bulb do the same thing? I am looking to keep mainly softies and LPS but will have a couple pieces of SPS at the top.

Final question is if I have sand in my refugium area in my sump, should I have the whole system going when the tank goes through its cycle, or would I be ok not having a return pump for a while and just have both tanks cycle separately, and connect later when I get a pump?

 

[jer77]

40 breeders are cool. I have one as a refugium.

Put the skimmer where ever it will fit, preferably so the intake takes in water from the surface. This is why overflows surface skim the water. You can't even hang it on the sump either?

A small pump like a mag5 at 500gph would be as much as you would want, but I don't know what plumping you have set up and the size of your overflow drains and sump, so I can't really suggest anything specific. Most of your flow should come from powerheads.

T5's are good for a 40B. You shouldn't need more than 4-5 if they are 6''-12'' above the tank for the highest light demanding corals. If they are only 24''-30'' you can stagger them so the total width covers the total tank width. I'm sure even if you have a 30'' fixture and hang it 18'' above, the light would still illuminate the total width. Just put lower light corals towards the sides. One 175W or 250W MH in a large reflector would also work. It would have to be hung at least 12''-18'' above the tank. T5's last longer though, don't get as hot which may be a huge issue for a small tank, and don't use as much electricity.

To have both areas cycle they need to have something living in them, or at least have to become accustomed to processing an influx of nutrients. So if there isn't something making waste in the fuge, or not at the same rate as in your display, the fuge will go through another cycle once its hooked up to your display. You can always add waste to your fuge to help feed the bacterial growths, but without a consistent influx, the bacteria will eventually just die from not having any food.

 

[diverbh4]

thanks for the response. although I have has a 29g a few months ago, this tank will be much more technical lol

Skimmer-I can use it as a HOB as it is setup now since my last tank was all HOB (fuge and skimmer). Although I would like to be able to place it in the sump it seems like it is too big with the bubble tower section in the way.

Pump-I have a 1" overflow from an internal overflow box, but then it turns into 1" before passing a ball valve that leads into the bubble tower in my sump. the return is only 1" PVC.

Cycle-I was gonna throw a couple pieces of shrimp in the display and sump to help the cycle process and let it go through the whole cycle before placing anything inside.
---so if I fully cycle the display and sump separate I shouldnt really have a problem when hooking them up together?

 

[Liquid Hobby]

MH and a 40B = heat issues... Or as stated above you could run MH really high, but that comes with it's own set of light 'spill over' ie: filling up the room.

 

[jrapp13]

I am also looking for suggestions for a return pump for this setup just going straight from the sump to the top of the display, but have never had to figure out what pump I should get

I bought a Mag5 for my return in the 40b I am setting up. I am planning on getting about 250gph through my sump and fuge.

MH and a 40B = heat issues... Or as stated above you could run MH really high, but that comes with it's own set of light 'spill over' ie: filling up the room.

With a 150w fixture, would a chiller be necessary or is this something you can conquer with fans?

 

[diverbh4]

ya im thinking about the mag 5, I have heard that they are a little loud and some have restart problems when the power goes out though.

if i cycle the display and sump fully separately, and then connect them after they have both fully cycled will I be fine? or could I connect them at any time during the separate cycles since I will have a pump before the end of the cycles.

 

[mudskipper1]

I ran a 150 watt mh over my 40breeder, and had heat issues even with fans upstairs, because we don't air condition much, and the room temp reached 85+ pretty often, moved the tank downstairs, and added two 39w t5s and had no heat issues, with just one computer fan in the canopy. The bulb was 11.5" above the water.

 

[2Addicted]

MH and a 40B = heat issues... Or as stated above you could run MH really high, but that comes with it's own set of light 'spill over' ie: filling up the room.

I have a 250w halide over my 40breeder. Never had any heat issues. There are no dark spots on the side I have it about 10 inches over the tank.

 

[diverbh4]

well heat wont really be an issue as I have a window ac running all day in the room it is in. I am more worried about price, how many ballasts I would need for a 5 bulb T5 and what ballasts to get.

 

[mudskipper1]

A 4x39 watt fixture would be perfect for your application in my opinion. You could buy a fixture, or buy 2 2-bulb retrofit kits, like from hellolights, reefgeek, etc. You have lots of options, and I recommend the Blue + bulbs, but you can find plenty of info on that here on RC. my .02

 

[diverbh4]

So I finally got a Mag 5 for a return pump!! I currently have a 1" PVC return but I need something to connect the pump to the PVC...any suggestions?
I have heard that I should swap it out for a 3/4" return line, is this a better choice?

Also, should I have the return pipe, drain pipe and/or the outflow from my skimmer be under water or above it?

I am looking into LEDs for the tank...any suggestions on what I would need for a DIY setup?

 

[frozenreefer]

i would hook both the main and sump up and let them cycle together why take a chance on a spike?

 

[mudskipper1]

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=186982

best LED reference that I have found

 

[The Punisher]

For the Mag pumps, it's recommended that you run your return piping twice the size of the outlet on the pump. If the Mag 5 has a 3/4" outlet, you should hook that up to 1.5" PVC that goes to the return in the tank, which can then be reduced back down to 3/4". It's not required to do this, but it is required if you want to get the most flow out of your pump.

 

[diverbh4]

For the Mag pumps, it's recommended that you run your return piping twice the size of the outlet on the pump. If the Mag 5 has a 3/4" outlet, you should hook that up to 1.5" PVC that goes to the return in the tank, which can then be reduced back down to 3/4". It's not required to do this, but it is required if you want to get the most flow out of your pump.

well the outlet is actually 1/2"...so the 1" PVC I have now would work then? If so, then how do I connect the pump to the PVC?

 

[The Punisher]

Yup, 1" will be good. You'll have to find a fitting that goes from the pump outlet to the 1" pipe. What kind of fitting is on the outlet of the pump?

 

[jeff@zina.com]

well the outlet is actually 1/2"...so the 1" PVC I have now would work then? If so, then how do I connect the pump to the PVC?

1/2" threaded to 1" rigid pipe? Personally I'd use a 1/2" threaded adapter, a 1/2" to 3/4" bushing, a 3/4" union, a 3/4" to 1" bushing, in that order. Easy to find those locally.

Jeff

 

[diverbh4]

Yup, 1" will be good. You'll have to find a fitting that goes from the pump outlet to the 1" pipe. What kind of fitting is on the outlet of the pump?

right now its a threaded end into the pump and the other end has a "slip" i think end...it looks like what you would use to attach flexible hose to it

1/2" threaded to 1" rigid pipe? Personally I'd use a 1/2" threaded adapter, a 1/2" to 3/4" bushing, a 3/4" union, a 3/4" to 1" bushing, in that order. Easy to find those locally.

Jeff

so instead of using the rigid pvc I have now, you suggest going from 1/2" to 3/4" to 1"? care to explain why it would be beneficial?


anybody know how many LEDs I would need to light this tank?

 

[jeff@zina.com]

so instead of using the rigid pvc I have now, you suggest going from 1/2" to 3/4" to 1"? care to explain why it would be beneficial?

That was the easiest way to get from the outlet on the pump to the size of your return, using parts available almost anywhere. Whatever way you do it, as long as it is water tight, works fine. The union is important for maintenance, whatever size you choose.

FWIW, I go from a 1/2" to 1" on a similar setup with a half inch threaded adapter into a 1/2" to 1" adapter. But that second adapter I had to find online since it wasn't available locally.

Jeff

 

[jeff@zina.com]

anybody know how many LEDs I would need to light this tank?

This depends a lot on which LED's, the height of the fixture, the spread angle for the lenses, what you're keeping and so on. Just for the surface area of the tank you're probably looking at 36-48 LED's with a 60 or 70 degree angle. Even then you may not get the PAR you need on the bottom in all areas, again depending on the height of the fixture.

Jeff