I am starting this thread to document the build process of my 75 gallon reef tank. I have enjoyed reading many of build threads here, figured my own would allow me to have a look back and learn from some of the mistakes I'm going to make, as well as share the process with others.
I have only ever had a few (small) freshwater aquariums, so this will be my first dive into reefing. I have a LOT to learn, but there is a tremendous amount of great resources. I very much welcome feedback.
After a whole lot of reading, I decided to start with a 75 gallon DT. I figured this is just big enough to be a bit more tolerant of unstable water conditions, but still fit in my space and budget limits.
So far, I have completed a (VERY overbuilt) shelf to hold two 20 gallon Brute trash cans for my mixing station and a start on the plumbing for it.
I'm having a bit of trouble finding a decent local source of plumbing parts. HD doesn't carry, basically anything for schedule 40, Rona has the most random/useless parts in the strangest of sizes, and a couple of the plumbing supply wholesalers seem very overpriced, and are lacking key items, such as valves, unions, or even tees. Guess I'm going to have to order the remaining parts online.
I started constructing my stand over the holiday. After seeing how overbuilt and heavy the mixing station stand was, I used the RocketEngineer and made a couple of minor modifications.
Long story short, I am not a not-so-proud member of the "way overbuilt white workbench club." I ended up making the stand exactly 48x18, not taking into account for the tank frame. I read somewhere that the Marineland 75 was that size, including the frame, and I hastily measured glass-to-glass to verify this, without breaking the cardboard crating to inspect the frame. Live and learn.
So anyway, the build for stand number two started yesterday.
My (properly sized) stand will be 48-3/4" x 18-3/4" x 36". This should give me 1/8th of an inch all the way around the bottom of the tank, yet keep the frame over sitting on the proper spot. The bottom will have no cross-bracing to permit an extra 3-1/2" of inside height for my sump. The top frame will be 2x6, mainly for peace of mind. I'm sure a 2x4 would be more than strong enough for a 75gal. I will include a rear center leg, and cross-brace in the top frame since my tank includes a center brace with a foot. I am also adding a couple of extra brace pieces on the top to (possibly) add extra some anti-racking. I also was not comfortable with how the leg and bottom brace joints lined up on the RocketEngineer design, so I slightly modified that detail as well. The front-face legs are also 2x6, whereas all the others are 2x4. Figured this would add extra strength to the open front.
I am by no means a carpenter. Some of the things I learned from my "practice stand":
* Invest in (at least) a pair of large clamps.
* Speed squares are awesome.
* Spend a few extra minutes insuring that the chop saw is actually making square cuts with a scrap, even though the gauges say its at 0.
* The laser line on a chop saw isn't necessarily the same size as the blade. (all the cuts on my first stand were 1/16th too short -- worked out though cause it was consistant...)
Here's my cut lumber:
I will be using a pocket screw jig to attach the legs to each frame.
I built each frame first using glue, and coated 2-1/2" deck screws. I drilled a pilot hole, and created a counter-sink pocket using a taper bit for each screw head. I then attached the "nailers", then the legs, then added the top frame.
Anywhere the legs didn't perfectly meet either frame, I glued and inserted shims to fill the (very small) gap. Only a couple of spots, thankfully. I also used the deck screws in the pocket screw holes, rather than proper pocket screws. I figured the wood is soft enough to distort to the shape of the screw head, and don't think non-coated pocket screws would hold up over time, especially since the pocket is hard to paint.
I suggest if you're DIYing a stand that you take some extra time to square everything up, as it will make life easier as you continue to assemble. No matter how much effort you put into choosing quality lumber, measuring and double-checking your cuts, off the shelf framing lumber isn't perfect. It is, however, very important for the stand to be square, flush and true. Using wood glue with a longer open time will allow you to not have to take as much time as you need to check all of your joints for square before screwing.
Here's the assembled stand, sitting on end with the first coat of Kilz on it:
The anti-racking brace I was talking about.
This is only on the top. The bottom will be a 1/2" plywood piece to provide an extra 6" of width in the sump area compared to my "work bench" (below) which used 2x4s on the bottom as well.
I will cover the bottom with plywood and caulk the joints to maybe contain a spill in the sump area.
I hope to complete the second coat of Kilz, and two coats of white kitchen and bath paint on the frame tonight.
I have only ever had a few (small) freshwater aquariums, so this will be my first dive into reefing. I have a LOT to learn, but there is a tremendous amount of great resources. I very much welcome feedback.
After a whole lot of reading, I decided to start with a 75 gallon DT. I figured this is just big enough to be a bit more tolerant of unstable water conditions, but still fit in my space and budget limits.
So far, I have completed a (VERY overbuilt) shelf to hold two 20 gallon Brute trash cans for my mixing station and a start on the plumbing for it.
I'm having a bit of trouble finding a decent local source of plumbing parts. HD doesn't carry, basically anything for schedule 40, Rona has the most random/useless parts in the strangest of sizes, and a couple of the plumbing supply wholesalers seem very overpriced, and are lacking key items, such as valves, unions, or even tees. Guess I'm going to have to order the remaining parts online.
I started constructing my stand over the holiday. After seeing how overbuilt and heavy the mixing station stand was, I used the RocketEngineer and made a couple of minor modifications.
Long story short, I am not a not-so-proud member of the "way overbuilt white workbench club." I ended up making the stand exactly 48x18, not taking into account for the tank frame. I read somewhere that the Marineland 75 was that size, including the frame, and I hastily measured glass-to-glass to verify this, without breaking the cardboard crating to inspect the frame. Live and learn.
So anyway, the build for stand number two started yesterday.
My (properly sized) stand will be 48-3/4" x 18-3/4" x 36". This should give me 1/8th of an inch all the way around the bottom of the tank, yet keep the frame over sitting on the proper spot. The bottom will have no cross-bracing to permit an extra 3-1/2" of inside height for my sump. The top frame will be 2x6, mainly for peace of mind. I'm sure a 2x4 would be more than strong enough for a 75gal. I will include a rear center leg, and cross-brace in the top frame since my tank includes a center brace with a foot. I am also adding a couple of extra brace pieces on the top to (possibly) add extra some anti-racking. I also was not comfortable with how the leg and bottom brace joints lined up on the RocketEngineer design, so I slightly modified that detail as well. The front-face legs are also 2x6, whereas all the others are 2x4. Figured this would add extra strength to the open front.
I am by no means a carpenter. Some of the things I learned from my "practice stand":
* Invest in (at least) a pair of large clamps.
* Speed squares are awesome.
* Spend a few extra minutes insuring that the chop saw is actually making square cuts with a scrap, even though the gauges say its at 0.
* The laser line on a chop saw isn't necessarily the same size as the blade. (all the cuts on my first stand were 1/16th too short -- worked out though cause it was consistant...)
Here's my cut lumber:
I will be using a pocket screw jig to attach the legs to each frame.
I built each frame first using glue, and coated 2-1/2" deck screws. I drilled a pilot hole, and created a counter-sink pocket using a taper bit for each screw head. I then attached the "nailers", then the legs, then added the top frame.
Anywhere the legs didn't perfectly meet either frame, I glued and inserted shims to fill the (very small) gap. Only a couple of spots, thankfully. I also used the deck screws in the pocket screw holes, rather than proper pocket screws. I figured the wood is soft enough to distort to the shape of the screw head, and don't think non-coated pocket screws would hold up over time, especially since the pocket is hard to paint.
I suggest if you're DIYing a stand that you take some extra time to square everything up, as it will make life easier as you continue to assemble. No matter how much effort you put into choosing quality lumber, measuring and double-checking your cuts, off the shelf framing lumber isn't perfect. It is, however, very important for the stand to be square, flush and true. Using wood glue with a longer open time will allow you to not have to take as much time as you need to check all of your joints for square before screwing.
Here's the assembled stand, sitting on end with the first coat of Kilz on it:
The anti-racking brace I was talking about.
This is only on the top. The bottom will be a 1/2" plywood piece to provide an extra 6" of width in the sump area compared to my "work bench" (below) which used 2x4s on the bottom as well.
I will cover the bottom with plywood and caulk the joints to maybe contain a spill in the sump area.
I hope to complete the second coat of Kilz, and two coats of white kitchen and bath paint on the frame tonight.
