St Pete John
New member
Looking great so far dude, tagging along.
New Build Design Phase
- Thread starter CuzzA
- Start date
Thanks, John.
So, I'm critiquing my design and am unsure which way to go with the return pump. I would prefer a submersible pump for two reasons. A) Any leak would be confined to the system and B) It's more efficient to use the heat generated by the pump to help maintain the target tank temperature.
I found this Sicce Syncra High Flow 16, which has 3,466 gph at 5 feet of head height.
What do you think?
sirrealism
New member
Really you need heat in your tank? Do you have a heater running in your tank now? Most of us are trying to keep our tanks cool enough is the only reason I ask. I use LEDs and on my open tanks I run a steady 78-79 and on my canopy tank 79-80 no heaters in any and keep my house at 76.
I setup my tank in February and my heater has never turned on. The heat from my equipment keeps the tank at 79-80 degrees. My house a/c is set to 75 degrees only because my 2 year old is home all day. I would have to believe if my return pump was external that my tank temp would likely fall a few degrees.
In all honesty though I'm sure things would change with a new setup. The leak factor is my real concern. I have yet to put any water on my laminate floors and come hell or "high water" don't intend to. Lol
lynardskynard12
New member
I was thinking about doing this with my stand for precautions but what about laying a pond liner on the inside of stand so that it will act as a pool if anything were to over flow or leak.
What do you guys think about this?
I posted in the national forum to get more exposure.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2441445
I posted in the national forum to get more exposure.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2441445
tigger2577
New member
Just thought I would point out the some warranty information on the aquarium just so you know if you have not read all of the fine print.
I have underlined one thing you will want to look at as the way I read it if you do not use their stand you have no warranty at all.
"Aquariums 75 Gallons and larger purchased from CustomAquariums.com are under warranty against leaks or cracks due to defects in the materials or workmanship for Lifetime. Aquariums
under 75 Gallons are warrantied for 90 days.
For the aquarium to be found defective the following stipulations must be met: the aquarium must be placed and filled on a level, appropriately sized Majestic® brand aquarium stand
manufactured by Lifetime Aquariums® / CustomAquariums.com. The aquarium has not been lifted or carried by the frame or while wet or filled with water or any materials such as decorations or
substrate, or the aquarium and aquarium stand may not be altered in any way including drilling additional holes or used for anything other than their original manufactured purpose of typical fish
aquarium use. Aquarium must not be chipped or damaged, or the silicone altered in any way. "
I have underlined one thing you will want to look at as the way I read it if you do not use their stand you have no warranty at all.
"Aquariums 75 Gallons and larger purchased from CustomAquariums.com are under warranty against leaks or cracks due to defects in the materials or workmanship for Lifetime. Aquariums
under 75 Gallons are warrantied for 90 days.
For the aquarium to be found defective the following stipulations must be met: the aquarium must be placed and filled on a level, appropriately sized Majestic® brand aquarium stand
manufactured by Lifetime Aquariums® / CustomAquariums.com. The aquarium has not been lifted or carried by the frame or while wet or filled with water or any materials such as decorations or
substrate, or the aquarium and aquarium stand may not be altered in any way including drilling additional holes or used for anything other than their original manufactured purpose of typical fish
aquarium use. Aquarium must not be chipped or damaged, or the silicone altered in any way. "
So, I explained to them this was going on a steal stand which would be far superior to any wood stand and they told me if I provided details and pictures of the stand they would consider granting the warranty. Waiting to hear back on that.
Yeah, I can't even imagine what 300 gallons looks like on a floor. Call me anytime brother.
Ok, after a bunch of research and listening to your suggestions, I present you with my updated design. This is what I'll likely submit to a tank builder. So, if you see anything wrong or where any improvements could be made please share.
I'm going to use an external coast to coast bean animal overflow.
I'm going to go with 2 return pumps for redundancy.
I have a spare 250 watt heater, in case the 300 watt fails.
I'll use my existing return pump for reactors and UV and any future additions.
I'm sticking with the UV. They work. It's a scientific proven fact. Buy not all UV's are the same and Emperor Aquatics appears to be hands down the best out there with the ability to kill even the smallest protozoa.
I'm also keeping the BRS dual reactor and will add another one. I believe the benefit here will be that I can change half of the GFO and half the Carbon out more easily without hurting any corals from having organics and phosphates rapidly striped from the water. I've read from many TOTM winners it's best to do it this way.
The WP60's would be an addition after setup if there isn't enough flow. But, I'd be shocked if there weren't. These damn WP25's on a custom setting Apex push some serious water. But we'll see, 300 is a lot bigger than 90.
So, there you have it.
I'm going to use an external coast to coast bean animal overflow.
I'm going to go with 2 return pumps for redundancy.
I have a spare 250 watt heater, in case the 300 watt fails.
I'll use my existing return pump for reactors and UV and any future additions.
I'm sticking with the UV. They work. It's a scientific proven fact. Buy not all UV's are the same and Emperor Aquatics appears to be hands down the best out there with the ability to kill even the smallest protozoa.
I'm also keeping the BRS dual reactor and will add another one. I believe the benefit here will be that I can change half of the GFO and half the Carbon out more easily without hurting any corals from having organics and phosphates rapidly striped from the water. I've read from many TOTM winners it's best to do it this way.
The WP60's would be an addition after setup if there isn't enough flow. But, I'd be shocked if there weren't. These damn WP25's on a custom setting Apex push some serious water. But we'll see, 300 is a lot bigger than 90.
So, there you have it.
Attachments
St Pete John
New member
Looking like one hell of a setup, cant wait to see it.
Thanks John. I'm really looking forward to this build. I will definitely start a detailed build thread once I have the tank. All I can share at this point is a crappy pic of the stand.
Attachments
tigger2577
New member
By looking at you return layout I would make a suggestion on what returns you set to each pump. I have add some numbering to your returns so you can understand what I am describing
as you have drawn return 1 and 2 are one one pump and return 3 and 4 are on another. I would suggest you set it up by either having 1 and 3 on one pump and 2 and 4 on the other or 1 and 4 on one pump and 2 and 3 on another.
I make this suggestion for flow rates if one pump fails in your current setup you have ore flow on one side of the tank vs the other, by separating them out you have a better change of keeping the flow more distributed and you coral happy.
as you have drawn return 1 and 2 are one one pump and return 3 and 4 are on another. I would suggest you set it up by either having 1 and 3 on one pump and 2 and 4 on the other or 1 and 4 on one pump and 2 and 3 on another.
I make this suggestion for flow rates if one pump fails in your current setup you have ore flow on one side of the tank vs the other, by separating them out you have a better change of keeping the flow more distributed and you coral happy.
This makes sense. Might as well because it wouldn't require anymore effort or supplies.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Ted_C
Active member
questions on your coast to coast external overflow?
Is that very expensive?
Are they just cutting one of the pieces of glass shorter then the rest (so 20" instead of 24"). Any issues with integrity of the tank with the back wall piece shorter? Is there eurobracing or rims to shore up the integrity?
Is that acrylic your planning for the extra 4 inches on the back wall to form the coast to coast? How are they planning on attaching that to glass?
Is that very expensive?
Are they just cutting one of the pieces of glass shorter then the rest (so 20" instead of 24"). Any issues with integrity of the tank with the back wall piece shorter? Is there eurobracing or rims to shore up the integrity?
Is that acrylic your planning for the extra 4 inches on the back wall to form the coast to coast? How are they planning on attaching that to glass?
Ted, I don't have those answers yet, but will report back once I submit the design for quotes.
Ted_C
Active member
I'm resurrecting this Cuzza. What's the damage?
I also have a quote request from John on a 96" x 32" x 24" with stainless steel rims and a steel stand. John had a good idea for an overflow that I like - internal coast to coast (held to the rear with bulk heads - drain the bulk heads into a rear external overflow box - then beananimal the external to the sump.
I also have a quote request from John on a 96" x 32" x 24" with stainless steel rims and a steel stand. John had a good idea for an overflow that I like - internal coast to coast (held to the rear with bulk heads - drain the bulk heads into a rear external overflow box - then beananimal the external to the sump.
tony727
New member
Hey CuzzA, what material are you going to make the overflow from? Glass?
I looked into making one for my tank, it was only 48" long, but still quite heavy and pricey.
If you're going that full length I think you should cut some triangles for braces.
Also why don't you go with the newer Jebao RW series, they pull/push water in a broader flow than the WP ones, unless its cause you're using your old pumps.
This build is going to be great! I want to do a big tank now as well haha
I looked into making one for my tank, it was only 48" long, but still quite heavy and pricey.
If you're going that full length I think you should cut some triangles for braces.
Also why don't you go with the newer Jebao RW series, they pull/push water in a broader flow than the WP ones, unless its cause you're using your old pumps.
This build is going to be great! I want to do a big tank now as well haha
