New Fish QT Method

[dbartkow]

Hi Everyone,
I am looking for some input from those that actually do QT their new fish before putting them int heir display setup. I am starting a new 110 gallon aquarium and want to make my tank as disease free as possible. So I am planning on quarantining all new fish before they go in. But, I wanted to hear what your process is. Do you fresh water dip first? Do you do hypo? Do you treat for disease before actually seeing any?

I appreciate all your input!
Dave

 

[Jocko]

I don't mean to be "that guy" but this topic is just so widely covered already. Have you done a search?

 

[dbartkow]

Yes, I did search and I am finding a lot of scattered information. Almost all searches turned up QT information for fish that were taken out of a display because of ich or some other disease. That is not what I am looking for.

What I was hoping for was a healthy discussion on what people do when they bring their new fish home - not just acclimating and dumping in their display tank. I want to hear what is the QT process people follow. Do they treat immediately? Do they wait and just observe? Do they do fresh water dips? Do they do hypo, copper or tank transfer? If a fish appears healthy, how long before putting in display?

Any info or any links to previous discussions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[dbartkow]

...sorry double post

 

[peasofme]

reefland.com

 

[gofor100]

I personally don't think that this topic is correctly discussed enough...

I think since most people unfortunately don't QT, there is a lot of misinformation out there along with threads that don't discuss a correct way to actually do it when introducing the fish (as a precautionary measure and not a treatment to an already diseased fish).

I'll be honest, I haven't always QT'd, but now that I'm upgrading to a larger tank and will be keeping more sensitive fish, this will be a necessity in my eyes.

Here is my plan (and I'm actually somewhat copying a friend of mine's procedures):

Step One: acclimate the new fish to the QT (without medication)- my goal here is to get it eating before any medication is administered

Step Two: once fish is eating regularly (this could be the 2nd day or after a week or so), administer full strength doses of Cupramine for 3 weeks.

Step Three: Treat with Prazipro in the last week of Quarantine

Once all of this is done (which should last about a month), I would feel pretty comfortable placing the fish into my tank. Of course with more sensitive fish, this may be altered slightly, but this is essentially the plan.

Hope this helps,

Chad

 

[dbartkow]

Thanks Chad, that was very helpful. I am in the same boat as you. Have been inconsistent in the past, but with the new system being setup, I want to make sure I do things right. I agree this isn't discussed enough!

A couple of follow-up questions:
What size QT tank do you plan to use? What type of filter? What other items do you plan to use/put in the tank?

Also, it sounds like you will be treating regardless of if the fish are showing symptoms. Is that right?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[gofor100]

Thanks Chad, that was very helpful. I am in the same boat as you. Have been inconsistent in the past, but with the new system being setup, I want to make sure I do things right. I agree this isn't discussed enough!

A couple of follow-up questions:
What size QT tank do you plan to use? What type of filter? What other items do you plan to use/put in the tank?

Also, it sounds like you will be treating regardless of if the fish are showing symptoms. Is that right?

Thanks,
Dave

No problem at all... I haven't finalized my QT process, but what I described is what I'll be doing unless someone else has some input on the topic that changes my plans.

As for the size, I actually have two... one for the small fish (I think it's only 10 gallons), and then my current DT will be turned into a QT (which is 60 gallons). I'll be using the 60 gallon tank for any larger/active swimming fish that I'll be keeping or fish that are kept in groups (i.e., anthias).

As for "other items"... I'll be running it pretty basic. I'll obviously have a heater, return pump, powerhead (use one of my big Koralias), but then I'll also probably get a cheap LED strip for some basic lighting (so the fish get used to my lighting schedule), and probably just use my old skimmer for filtration (although I know this wouldn't be necessary in a QT if you keep up on your water changes). That along with some old rocks I don't care about is pretty much it.

And yes, I'll be treating regardless of signs. This procedure will be done on ALL fish entering my tank. My hope is that if there are no fish parasites in the DT, and my params are good (which I've never had a problem with), then my fish (even the difficult-to-keep ones) will be longer-lived. You have to figure that the most common reason most fish die stems from stress, which then leads to a decrease in their immunity, which then leads to being overtaken by whatever parasites are in the tank. Then the next fish stresses out because the other one is sick/dying in an enclosed environment, and the domino effect begins... If you remove the parasites from the equation, then you have to figure this will give them a better chance of recovering from whatever stress they are enduring.

I also have a pretty strict Quarantine method for EVERY item going in the new tank to increase the likelihood of not introducing parasites, since it doesn't really help to quarantine your fish and then just put them in a tank that already has the parasites you're trying to avoid. But that's for another thread...

Thanks,

Chad

 

[aandfsoccr04]

I QT my fish before they go into my DT. I acclimate them and then just use your standard HOB filter with a powerhead and some PVC pipe on the bottom. Being in the medical field, I don't treat for diseases that I don't see signs of. I observe my fish for 4 weeks and if I don't see anything then I adjust the QT tank to the DT params and move the fish over. Just a personal preference.

 

[gofor100]

I QT my fish before they go into my DT. I acclimate them and then just use your standard HOB filter with a powerhead and some PVC pipe on the bottom. Being in the medical field, I don't treat for diseases that I don't see signs of. I observe my fish for 4 weeks and if I don't see anything then I adjust the QT tank to the DT params and move the fish over. Just a personal preference.

Yeah, I agree that observation will probably work in most cases. The only the reason I treat without signs is because in certain cases, the signs won't reveal themselves until the fish is extremely stressed. Now, in most cases, a fish being moved from a LFS or wholesaler to your tank is stressful enough, but not in all cases. Thus, an infected fish that hasn't been pushed over the edge may look perfectly healthy.

Observation will probably work, but I personally don't want to take the chance. To each their own though... any QT is better than no QT.

-Chad

 

[SneakyPete]

Instead of treating with a chemical by default, you could always slowly lower the SG to 1.009 and have that for a couple weeks. That will kill many different types of parasites (be sure to have Prime or Ammlock or something, because that will also probably kill your biological filter). It won't kill all parasites, but many can't survive at hyposaline levels.

 

[Saadatski]

I always Qt my new fish. My LFS is pretty amazing, and so far i did not need to treat any fish for any disease. BUT i QT just in case.

Here is what i do.

10g tank
aqueon HOB filter (cheap at petsmart)
heater
lights(optional)

I acclimate the fish, to 1.008 specific gravity that is in the QT, and i perform hypo just in case. It is fairly easy, just need a refractometer. This is the easiest thing to do and the least stressful to the fish. they will eat normally through this process, and the ich will die.

 

[sponger0]

I just acclimate mine fish into the QT, watch them closely and make sure its feeding. Treat as needed.

 

[bellis31]

I just started a QT for my new tank and the steps I am using are:

1: Acclimate fish to QT by matching salinity to LFS water in bag. Then I only really have to acclimate temp.

2: Get fish eating at least 2 types of food, frozen, pellets or flakes.

3: Observe fish daily for signs of disease. (I work from home so this is easy) Treat only as needed.

4: Slowly raise salinity to DT levels by adding saltwater when I top off.

5: If no disease or eating problems after 5 weeks add to DT.

I should be rather successful using this method.

 

[Joe0813]

Following along for this so I can get some ideas for my qt when the time comes

 

[dbartkow]

I acclimate the fish, to 1.008 specific gravity that is in the QT, and i perform hypo just in case. It is fairly easy, just need a refractometer. This is the easiest thing to do and the least stressful to the fish. they will eat normally through this process, and the ich will die.

I am curious, how long do you take to acclimate them to hypo (1.008)? Is it a matter of hours or days? Also how long are you keeping them in hypo?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Saadatski]

Well, i drip acclimate them for about one and half hours, two drops a sec, till volume of initial water doubles. Trust me, the fish will not be stressed by the sudden drop in salinity. even more sensitive fish like tangs dont feel much stress, as there is more stress from transportation. I keep them in hypo for about 4 weeks then make sure i did not see any ich in those weeks. I DO NOT MIX COPPER WITH HYPO. this is crucial because the fish will def die if you mix them.

after 4 weeks of seeing nothing, you slowly get the salinity back to the DT SG. easy as that. it is the least stressful treatment, and you can treat without seeing signs. its basically failsafe.

 

[dixiedog]

My duplex QT/frag facility. One side for fish, one side for corals. No sump(s), AC70's on each side.

I don't believe in hypo, I treat all fish with cupramine and prazipro regardless of where they came from. Corals are dipped in Coral-Rx and spend 8-10 weeks under close observation in a fishless environment before they make it to the display.

 

[madkeenreefer]

Interesting thread, I have been researching this topic also and belive that their is a consencis that 8weeks is mark at which ick can be truly eradicated in QT

 

[madkeenreefer]

My duplex QT/frag facility. One side for fish, one side for corals. No sump(s), AC70's on each side.

I don't believe in hypo, I treat all fish with cupramine and prazipro regardless of where they came from. Corals are dipped in Coral-Rx and spend 8-10 weeks under close observation in a fishless environment before they make it to the display.

Agreed
Interesting thread, I have been researching this topic also and belive that their is a consencis that 8weeks is the mark for QT