krzyphsygy
Active member
Let them ask the question, thats what these boards are for. Not to go off topic but we do not wany anyone to feel they cant ask a question. Bring them on, we help each other.
New Fish QT Method
- Thread starter dbartkow
- Start date
Let them ask the question, thats what these boards are for. Not to go off topic but we do not wany anyone to feel they cant ask a question. Bring them on, we help each other.
dbartkow
New member
Since a good QT process seems to include corals also, lets discuss this some more too. What are the thing you are looking for on the corals during those 8-10 weeks?
Lynnmw1208
New member
I QT fish that I can. I did not QT my mandarin, jawfish or yellow eye kole tang as I have heard that these don't fare well in barren tanks. So far I have been ok. I treated my tank with prazipro to take care of internal parasites and feed new life spectrum pellets.
My QT is a 40 gallon breeder with an aquaclear HOB filter and some PVC tube and fake aquarium decorations. I QT for 1-2 months depending on the fish as some are more prone to others. I always treat with prazipro in QT as well.
For corals, I dip in coral RX before putting them in my tank and that's as far as I have gone with them.
you are going to find widely different answers for QTing fish and corals. Basically just take a bit of everyone's advice and find what works for you. Some things might and some might not. Glad you are taking precautions though!
My QT is a 40 gallon breeder with an aquaclear HOB filter and some PVC tube and fake aquarium decorations. I QT for 1-2 months depending on the fish as some are more prone to others. I always treat with prazipro in QT as well.
For corals, I dip in coral RX before putting them in my tank and that's as far as I have gone with them.
you are going to find widely different answers for QTing fish and corals. Basically just take a bit of everyone's advice and find what works for you. Some things might and some might not. Glad you are taking precautions though!
krzyphsygy
Active member
I am going to just observe for 4 weeks. No sign of disease, no treatment. I do not want to risk losing a fish in treatment if its not needed. They are stressed enough. If I ever add a fish to DT that was in QT for 4 weeks and still had a disease then I will treat standard. Everyone has a great method, with great results. I am open though, what ever is best for the fish.
alanbates12
New member
Good thread. QT is the only way to go.
geaux xman
New member
I keep mostly angels. All total I do 2 5-day treatments of prazi back to back with a 25% WC in between. plus 3 weeks of .3-.5ppm cupramine. I will do the prazi and cupramine treatment together.
I added 1 fish that wasnt QT personally be me. I will never do that again.
I've done quite a few 45min-1hr formalin baths too. Did it to fish that was continuously flashing(scratching against rocks) after my parasite outbreak and going fallow.
I added 1 fish that wasnt QT personally be me. I will never do that again.
I've done quite a few 45min-1hr formalin baths too. Did it to fish that was continuously flashing(scratching against rocks) after my parasite outbreak and going fallow.
Im a newbie and i will probably have to learn the hard way but IMO there is a levle of stress at every transition of a fishs path to my tank and that has to include the transition from the QT to the DT. With that being said i cant see the benefit of just watching a fish without activly treating it via meds or hypo or special feeding. IMO i could just watch it in the store if im not activly treating it. Just my theory of course
Lynnmw1208
New member
plus other internal parasites.
dixiedog
New member
You are correct, there are many diseases and parasites a fish can have that are invisible to the naked eye unless the fish is at death's door. QT-ing for observation alone is pretty silly IMO.
As for corals, I use a CoralRx (or Revive) dip for most things, sometimes a Lugol's dip also, sometimes a FW dip. Then observe it in a fishless QT for a few weeks to see what sort of nasties may develop on it, and also to allow things like ich to die off.
BTW, I have also been experimenting with hydrogen peroxide dips for frags with bubble algae, bryopsis, hair algae, etc. So far I am a big fan of this, with a 100% success rate even when deliberately overdoing it some.
Also - I never allow any piece of rock or rock rubble from another system into mine. Rock carries cooties of all kinds.
As for corals, I use a CoralRx (or Revive) dip for most things, sometimes a Lugol's dip also, sometimes a FW dip. Then observe it in a fishless QT for a few weeks to see what sort of nasties may develop on it, and also to allow things like ich to die off.
BTW, I have also been experimenting with hydrogen peroxide dips for frags with bubble algae, bryopsis, hair algae, etc. So far I am a big fan of this, with a 100% success rate even when deliberately overdoing it some.
Also - I never allow any piece of rock or rock rubble from another system into mine. Rock carries cooties of all kinds.
krzyphsygy
Active member
krzyphsygy
Active member
krzyphsygy
Active member
What kind of treatment do you use?
gofor100
New member
I'll be using this method for the "medication-sensitive fish" like Mandarin Gobies/Dragonets...
Just set up two 10 gallon tanks and switch back and forth (emptying each tank and cleaning after each removal).
At least this would deal with ich, but not internal parasites (but I don't think Mandarins are known for having this problem).
-Chad
If you are debating, hypo, copper, meds, FW dips, etc., I would look at the specific piscine species, because reactions to certain methods differ greatly.
I have a hard time hitting a fish prophylactically with substances that may tax their system, or perhaps even harm them, but I do believe that with certain species and the prevalence of infection upon possession, that is just what you might have to do to give that species the best chance of survival. Tangs, particularly PBlueT and hippos, always seem to get Ich. Most folks I know around here (SoCal) treat them upon arrival, regardless of symptoms. I obtained a purple tang and didn't, and it had Ich within 48 hours and I was treating anyways.
I have done short FW dips for corals. But I seem to get better results with CoralRX, MediCoral or Lugol's, so I have no discontinued. FW dips for fish infected with Ich can work, but (from my experience), the benefits are only temporary...the Ich life cycle won't give up that easily. If it gets into an established tank, unless you can yank the fish, medicated food (garlic, metro, focus) has been the most successful for me. And if I can get them (and by them, I mean all of the fish, not just the infected ones), then QT with either copper or hypo has been my most successful (but never both!).
Please understand these are just my personal experiences/beliefs, so take them for what that is worth.
As for QT, I have a 20 and 40, glass, cleaned and sealed (saran wrap), ready to go a moment's notice. I use an aquaclear 20 or 40, heater, and have a few left over maxi-jets if needed. I use an old T12 fixture.
I have a hard time hitting a fish prophylactically with substances that may tax their system, or perhaps even harm them, but I do believe that with certain species and the prevalence of infection upon possession, that is just what you might have to do to give that species the best chance of survival. Tangs, particularly PBlueT and hippos, always seem to get Ich. Most folks I know around here (SoCal) treat them upon arrival, regardless of symptoms. I obtained a purple tang and didn't, and it had Ich within 48 hours and I was treating anyways.
I have done short FW dips for corals. But I seem to get better results with CoralRX, MediCoral or Lugol's, so I have no discontinued. FW dips for fish infected with Ich can work, but (from my experience), the benefits are only temporary...the Ich life cycle won't give up that easily. If it gets into an established tank, unless you can yank the fish, medicated food (garlic, metro, focus) has been the most successful for me. And if I can get them (and by them, I mean all of the fish, not just the infected ones), then QT with either copper or hypo has been my most successful (but never both!).
Please understand these are just my personal experiences/beliefs, so take them for what that is worth.
As for QT, I have a 20 and 40, glass, cleaned and sealed (saran wrap), ready to go a moment's notice. I use an aquaclear 20 or 40, heater, and have a few left over maxi-jets if needed. I use an old T12 fixture.
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