New house - new tank (700Gal) input welcome

jp7189

New member
I’m planning a new house and a new tank to go along with it... the house has been literally designed around the reef tank. The tank will show through a picture frame wall in to the living room, and provide views over a half-wall to the kitchen/dinette area and on the second floor over a balcony.

With this tank the emphasis will be on efficiency and low energy bills (I’ll explain more in a bit). The main display will be 8’x4’x3’ for a total of a little more than 700G. Water will leave the display through ‘mail slot’ type overflows, and drop as little as possible before entering the refugium. The refugium will be sectioned in to ten smaller tanks, each section a few inches below the last. The idea is to use the falling energy of the water to keep the flow turbulent and therefore eliminate the need for auxiliary pumps. The last tank will empty in to the sump, and the water will be returned to two ‘Carlson’ type surgers on opposite sides of the tank.

There will be two closed loops; one that is returned through the PVC rock support structure, and one that travels through a ‘pod propagation area before being returned around mid-water level where the corals can get the most contact with the ‘pod laden water. I’d love to hear about the best way to provide dense ‘pod living space. I’ve considered livesand/rock rubble, turf algae, and foam pads. Each has pros and cons.

Lighting will be provided naturally.. yep good ol’ sunshine. The tank room is planned to have a poly carbonate roof, and is on the south side of the house. This has been the decision I agonized over the most.. really because of lack of control over the light, but it’s also a big opportunity to save $$$ every month. The house will be in Maryland, and in any case will need some supplemental light. I’m am concerned about the potential buildup of heat (esp. in the summertime).. does anybody out there have experience with a ground source chiller? ..or something that uses the ground as a big heat sink?

I have no experience with HVAC stuff.. and I’m concerned I may grossly underestimate potential heat and moisture problems in the tank room. Is it best to return the air to the rest of the house or get rid of it to the outside? The tank room is a 20’x9’ concrete slab with an 11’ ceiling.

We are set to break ground on the house in October.. with at least 6 months of build time. The specifics of the tank aren’t finalized yet, and that’s why I’ve started this post.. to reach out to the vast knowledge of the community on RC. Questions/comments are much appreciated!
 
Hello Jon, I used to be your neighbor. I lived of 26 in the Highlands. I now live in Salisbury. I can't wait to see this project. Their is a great store near me in Mardela Springs. it is Pacific east agriculture. He uses a sun room to grow corals. good luck Nick
 
Mardela Springs.. that's not too far away. I'll have to get over there and check out the sun room. There's tons of info out there about artificial lights, but I still have a bunch of questions about the proper use of natural light.. (that seems kinda backwards.. doesn't it?)
 
A 36" high tank will be a problem reaching the bottom of the tank. I have a 32" high 535 and my face gets wet when I try to reach the bootom, especially towards the back of the tank. Tongs are clumbsy and scapers scratch.

Make sure you have alot of flow. I am battling my second hair algea break out. Not sure what it is from but it is morally devistating!!!

I am breaking this tank down and going smaller.
 
I think if you can have the room setup with your HVAC system then you should be okay. You might have them add a floor drain and then you could use a 70 quart dehumidifier setup with a hose to drain into the floor drain. I keep my 75 gallon in the basement which is not finished and run a dehumidifier to control excess moisture. Obviously this is nowhere the same in size comparison but having HVAC and the dehumidifier and maybe a ceiling fan or two installed I think that would be sufficient. You won't need a chiller then either.

I think 30 inches is where I would stop at on height because it gets difficult reaching down into the tank bottom. Although if you had a DSB of 10 to 12 inches 36 inches would be okay I would think.

HTH's some with my little knowledge.
Good luck and share lots of photos and journal that bad boy like crazy.

Bill:D
 
The other thought for the height is to keep it at 36" deep but don't make the viewing side 36" make it 27 to 32 " view. that way you will get the depth but not have the issue of cleaning.
 
36" height

36" height

I was thinkin' a 5-6" sand bed, and those surgers are planned to be 70G in total volume.. so I was thinking at least 4" of space to swallow a full surge...

but.. two tanks ago I had a 32 incher .. and I never could quite reach the bottom.. getting to things down there was a pain.. so point well taken.

also.. I've never had to lean across a 4x8 footprint.. Is it ok to put my full weight on the tank glass/bracing.. or should I plan to put something in the center to lean on?
 
I think if you are having it built with Euro bracing it will be just fine unless you weigh 500 lbs.:lol:

Just a thought, but in such a large tank I would personally use a deeper sand bed. Maybe 7-8 inches instead of 10-12. I really don't think you can go wrong with DSB's regardless of what some people may say. The last time I checked the sand is much deeper in the ocean than what we put in our tanks.

Filtration is going to be your big thing with this size tank and a nice DSB will help the life of the system. I am sure this thing is going to be beautiful once setup.

-Bill:)
 
I am not sure is a sandbed is the way to go. I just took all my sand out. The amount of detritus that had accumulated in it was unbelievable. Now we'll see if my HR clears up.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8088044#post8088044 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by KenT
I am not sure is a sandbed is the way to go. I just took all my sand out. The amount of detritus that had accumulated in it was unbelievable. Now we'll see if my HR clears up.

I guess the oceans should ditch the sand as well.:D Let's not detract from this thread with a DSB vs. no DSB debate.

Thanks,
Bill
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8088232#post8088232 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by J4Life
I guess the oceans should ditch the sand as well.:D Let's not detract from this thread with a DSB vs. no DSB debate.

Thanks,
Bill

No problem, but let me say that the ocean and an aquarium are two different things. Can't compare.
 
I'm a fan of DSBs. I had a FOWLR with constant nitrate problems even with good algae filtration. The current tank has 4" bed in the display and 6" in the sump.. and it's rare to ever measure nitrates. All other things considered I feel it's the DSB that contributes most to denitrification.

Jawfishes are my favorite.. and they do an incredible job of stirring up the sand... so far no problems with gunk buildup.
 
I agree with that. I think on tank that size it would be a mistake not having a DSB. I plan on upgrading to a 225 gallon in the near future with the same measurements as SunnyX's and I will have a DSB in mine probably 4-6 inches since the total height will only be 24 inches tall.

:)
 
I had a good meeting with the arichtect and builder last night. We talked construction logistics and the finer points of the setup Here's a couple of changes:

1. The room dimension was altered slightly to 12x17 (previously 20x9) to improve the exterior balance of the house.

2. The roof angle was increased to improve sun exposure in the winter.

3. We've agreed to double pane glass instead of poly carbonate for the roof.. durability, insulation, aesthetics

4. The back wall is have a large door frame.. the center of which will have removable a removable panel. When the tank has been moved in place (through this frame).. the hole will be covered up and siding put back in to place. In the future I would just need to pop off the siding and unscrew the panel to move large things in and out. I didn't want a full time double door to the outside, and the interior door is only 30".

5. Epoxy coated concrete floor sloped to a floor drain and green board on the walls. The entire tank room floor will be 7" below the living room floor.. for risk mitigation. In the case of a catashtrophe the room will be able to hold the entire volume of water without letting it flow back in to the living area. This will also allow me to hose down the floor from time to time.

6. Separate 'leeching' field for the tank run off - we'll be on a septic tank, and it seems a bad idea to pour loads of saltwater in there.. so there will be a separate area well below ground where water changes and such will go.


If anyone out there has experience with well/septic and salt water, please let me know how this is supposed to be done.. none of us have pratical experience with it.
 
WOW, great job in the planning!! Have you thought more about ventilation? Or will the separate room be enough to protect the rest of the house?
 
sorry to jump in on your thread but I want to try a DSB for the first time and need to know if you all just dump the sand in on the glass or do you make a little platform for the sand to go on so tere is flow under the sand ?
 
I am building a similar sized tank, mine will be
8ftL x 3 1/2D x 3ft H
I would go with at least 6 inches of fine sand (not oolite)
noone adressed the ventilation issue.
Definitely vent the stale air outside! two exhausts, one in the sump room and one in the canopy. check sanjays thread, for more great ideas.Where will the sump room be? In the basement?
 
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