MJAnderson
Premium Member
I lob the softballs into the strikezone. I leave it to others to hit them.
New Lumen Bright Reflector. ... any info on them
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I lob the softballs into the strikezone. I leave it to others to hit them.
bubbletip2
Premium Member
Hey Deuce,
One thing I have learned in this hobby is that you have to do your research and never take only one person's opinion. Also, it is important to remember that lighting is only one piece of the puzzle in keeping a thriving SPS tank. Mature bacterial colonies, optimal water circulation, Calcium/Alkalinity balance, and proper feeding along with heavy skimming is crucial for retaining beatiful color and adequate growth of the so called difficult Acropora species. It really is not difficult if you follow these simple rules. And by God please acclimate your coral to any significant change in light intensity that you have. That may and often times means a new batch of carbon or uncareful observation of ozone that can polish water to the point that you torch your coral. It can be replacing old bulbs or ballasts that can stress your coral and of course a change in spectrum of bulb from 14K to 10K for example can be life threatening as well. There are so many factors involved here that to make all of your decisions on one thing is just irresponsible.
Here is another good article on coral photoacclimation that may be useful to understand how important this can be in proper husbandry.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-01/atj/index.php
I have a lot more to say about the recent posts here but really just want to explain that you should do your research before shelling out more money for reflectors you may not need.
First of all, here is a shot of the top of the middle pillar in the previous picture posted. Notice the color of the blue mille and the pink birdnest. And trust me this pic does not do it any justice and anyone that has seen this tank can say the same.
The color is truly amazing. And let me tell you that the tops of these coral are 3-4 inches below the surface of the water and again this pillar is WIDE and the whole top of it is doused in light right under this reflector. I know how Mike feels about his coral and let me tell you he would not put these prize coral in jeopardy in an irresponsible way. These pics were taken a few weeks ago and Mike has said that the color is even richer than when I was over and has grown in quite a bit. When we set up this pillar it was a month later that I came over and that blue mille looked like it doubled in size and turned gleaming blue(truly beautiful). It is even bigger now and bluer. And it is 3 inches under the surface of the water. Those are some pretty fancy laser beams you got there Mike
Before anyone tries to convince themselves that your coral don't desire intense lighting, please do your research - take a look at another article written by Sanjay Joshi that explains how impossible it is for us to replicate the intensity of light our almighty sun provides.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/8/aafeature/view?searchterm=coral irradiance
A little tidbit from the article shows the intensity at different depths on a coral reef.
"The PPFD values corresponding to these spectral plots as a function of depth are given in the table below.
1m 5m 10m 15m 20m
1640 958 618 436 316"
Every time I hear that we are pushing too much light on our coral I just want to scream. What in the world kind of logic is that? I do agree telling people to put some 400w bulbs over there tank is bad advice without explaining the acclimation process. You don't want to stress them, burn them, and heat up your tank to levels that will help to induce bleaching. This is why raising your lights is essential. 10.5 inches is low for those big LumenBrites and not just for spread. It does not look like you can raise them either. Mike has his bulbs 14 inches from the top of the water. Less heat and less avaporation - better air circulation throughout the canopy and he is up to his winter 10 hour lighting cycle. Yes people 400w bulbs on for 10 hours without actinic supplementation. I should also add that stressful light is not the only factor in why corals bleach. Excessive eat is known as a big stressor and malnourished coral will not help prevent this from happening either.
Deuce take a look at my fairly new 5ft tank with two Lumenarc minis at 10 inches from the surface of the water. Ummm, do I see laser beams.:hmm5: There is a pretty big patch of shade right in the middle of this 5ft tank with Lumenarcs. I have not had my lights at this level in my canopy at all and know on a 5ft tank that it is not doable at least at 10 inches. The reflectors are an equal distance to the ends of the canopy as they are to the middle so they are placed evenly in the canopy. I have my lights 13.5 inches from the water to get enough spread with mini LumenArcs. I am sure the LumenBrites would be comparable at this height with the spread after seeing the minis on Mike's 32"wide tank.
My main goal in this hobby lately is retaining the natural color and brigning out the potential color in SPS , LPS, and fish. Mike has been accomplishing the same goal and it is evident in the pictures everyone has seen. Let me some some pictures of all of these people having issues and I may be able to diagnose some other problems they may have that may be responsible for there bleaching. Proper light acclimation is key if you want to keep your coral under intense lighting.
One thing I have learned in this hobby is that you have to do your research and never take only one person's opinion. Also, it is important to remember that lighting is only one piece of the puzzle in keeping a thriving SPS tank. Mature bacterial colonies, optimal water circulation, Calcium/Alkalinity balance, and proper feeding along with heavy skimming is crucial for retaining beatiful color and adequate growth of the so called difficult Acropora species. It really is not difficult if you follow these simple rules. And by God please acclimate your coral to any significant change in light intensity that you have. That may and often times means a new batch of carbon or uncareful observation of ozone that can polish water to the point that you torch your coral. It can be replacing old bulbs or ballasts that can stress your coral and of course a change in spectrum of bulb from 14K to 10K for example can be life threatening as well. There are so many factors involved here that to make all of your decisions on one thing is just irresponsible.
Here is another good article on coral photoacclimation that may be useful to understand how important this can be in proper husbandry.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-01/atj/index.php
I have a lot more to say about the recent posts here but really just want to explain that you should do your research before shelling out more money for reflectors you may not need.
First of all, here is a shot of the top of the middle pillar in the previous picture posted. Notice the color of the blue mille and the pink birdnest. And trust me this pic does not do it any justice and anyone that has seen this tank can say the same.
The color is truly amazing. And let me tell you that the tops of these coral are 3-4 inches below the surface of the water and again this pillar is WIDE and the whole top of it is doused in light right under this reflector. I know how Mike feels about his coral and let me tell you he would not put these prize coral in jeopardy in an irresponsible way. These pics were taken a few weeks ago and Mike has said that the color is even richer than when I was over and has grown in quite a bit. When we set up this pillar it was a month later that I came over and that blue mille looked like it doubled in size and turned gleaming blue(truly beautiful). It is even bigger now and bluer. And it is 3 inches under the surface of the water. Those are some pretty fancy laser beams you got there Mike
Before anyone tries to convince themselves that your coral don't desire intense lighting, please do your research - take a look at another article written by Sanjay Joshi that explains how impossible it is for us to replicate the intensity of light our almighty sun provides.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/8/aafeature/view?searchterm=coral irradiance
A little tidbit from the article shows the intensity at different depths on a coral reef.
"The PPFD values corresponding to these spectral plots as a function of depth are given in the table below.
1m 5m 10m 15m 20m
1640 958 618 436 316"
Every time I hear that we are pushing too much light on our coral I just want to scream. What in the world kind of logic is that? I do agree telling people to put some 400w bulbs over there tank is bad advice without explaining the acclimation process. You don't want to stress them, burn them, and heat up your tank to levels that will help to induce bleaching. This is why raising your lights is essential. 10.5 inches is low for those big LumenBrites and not just for spread. It does not look like you can raise them either. Mike has his bulbs 14 inches from the top of the water. Less heat and less avaporation - better air circulation throughout the canopy and he is up to his winter 10 hour lighting cycle. Yes people 400w bulbs on for 10 hours without actinic supplementation. I should also add that stressful light is not the only factor in why corals bleach. Excessive eat is known as a big stressor and malnourished coral will not help prevent this from happening either.
Deuce take a look at my fairly new 5ft tank with two Lumenarc minis at 10 inches from the surface of the water. Ummm, do I see laser beams.:hmm5: There is a pretty big patch of shade right in the middle of this 5ft tank with Lumenarcs. I have not had my lights at this level in my canopy at all and know on a 5ft tank that it is not doable at least at 10 inches. The reflectors are an equal distance to the ends of the canopy as they are to the middle so they are placed evenly in the canopy. I have my lights 13.5 inches from the water to get enough spread with mini LumenArcs. I am sure the LumenBrites would be comparable at this height with the spread after seeing the minis on Mike's 32"wide tank.
My main goal in this hobby lately is retaining the natural color and brigning out the potential color in SPS , LPS, and fish. Mike has been accomplishing the same goal and it is evident in the pictures everyone has seen. Let me some some pictures of all of these people having issues and I may be able to diagnose some other problems they may have that may be responsible for there bleaching. Proper light acclimation is key if you want to keep your coral under intense lighting.
bubbletip2
Premium Member
Deuce,
With the par readings those puppies are putting out at 10.5 inches, you should be perfectly fine at 16" to grow most SPS. figure it like this if you added 6 inches to your 24 inch high tank you get 30". Most people are able grow coral adequately with 400w bulbs 30 inches deep in their tank. Add 6 inches to your 10.5 and you get 16.5 inches form the surface of the water. You will be just fine and will have plenty of spread.
You will also be able to run them longer. I run 2 -400w 12K's on the same size tank and my temp is between 78.5-79.5 with 4 fans and an RK2.
If you were not going to raise them, I was going to suggest buying two dimmable ballasts instead to be able to better acclimate your coral. This is the purpose of the dimmable ballast. It allows people that are restricted by their canopy to turn it down to get your coral adjusted.
Another suggestion - to get the most out of our t5's you will need those a bit lower - 4 inches or so. Otherwise they are just for aesthetics. I find the color of the 12K's the most natural color for a bulb that I have ever seen. I run mine 9 hours right now without any actinic supplementation. Less bulbs and ballasts to replace and more room in the canopy for proper ventialtion and air circulation. Just a thought
With the par readings those puppies are putting out at 10.5 inches, you should be perfectly fine at 16" to grow most SPS. figure it like this if you added 6 inches to your 24 inch high tank you get 30". Most people are able grow coral adequately with 400w bulbs 30 inches deep in their tank. Add 6 inches to your 10.5 and you get 16.5 inches form the surface of the water. You will be just fine and will have plenty of spread.
You will also be able to run them longer. I run 2 -400w 12K's on the same size tank and my temp is between 78.5-79.5 with 4 fans and an RK2.
If you were not going to raise them, I was going to suggest buying two dimmable ballasts instead to be able to better acclimate your coral. This is the purpose of the dimmable ballast. It allows people that are restricted by their canopy to turn it down to get your coral adjusted.
Another suggestion - to get the most out of our t5's you will need those a bit lower - 4 inches or so. Otherwise they are just for aesthetics. I find the color of the 12K's the most natural color for a bulb that I have ever seen. I run mine 9 hours right now without any actinic supplementation. Less bulbs and ballasts to replace and more room in the canopy for proper ventialtion and air circulation. Just a thought
bubbletip2
Premium Member
Also Deuce,
I am using that middle section of the tank to acclimate coral as I know the light intensity is not there as it is far from the bulb and low in the tank.
I am switching to LumenBrites myself and will definitely have to reacclimate coral when I do.
At that time I can show a couple comparison pictures of the light lost outside the back of my canopy onto the wall with the LMIII's and the Lumen Brites. If I was a betting man myself, I would put a thousand bucks on the LumenBrites to keep the light in the tank, exactly where I want it.
Jim
I am using that middle section of the tank to acclimate coral as I know the light intensity is not there as it is far from the bulb and low in the tank.
I am switching to LumenBrites myself and will definitely have to reacclimate coral when I do.
At that time I can show a couple comparison pictures of the light lost outside the back of my canopy onto the wall with the LMIII's and the Lumen Brites. If I was a betting man myself, I would put a thousand bucks on the LumenBrites to keep the light in the tank, exactly where I want it.
Jim
6'2'2'
6'2'2'
gents,
i have found this thread increadiably informative. so i would now like your opinions. I have a 6' by 2' by 2' tank, and am going to use 175w 12k or 15k bulbs (coralvue or Iskwa respectivly) with icecap ballast. (this is due to increadibly high cost of power)
I would like too use 3 reflectors (and thus 3 175w bulbs) one for each of the sections (the tank is cross braced having 3 2' by 2' holes at the top.)
I was originally looking at the luminarc 3, but am starting to think that the lumenbrights might be better due to the low wattage of the bulbs and the depth of the tank.
My thought is that the LB will penitrate to the bottom of the tank and because i am using one for each 2'by2' the spead will not matter that much.
Thoughts?
6'2'2'
gents,
i have found this thread increadiably informative. so i would now like your opinions. I have a 6' by 2' by 2' tank, and am going to use 175w 12k or 15k bulbs (coralvue or Iskwa respectivly) with icecap ballast. (this is due to increadibly high cost of power)
I would like too use 3 reflectors (and thus 3 175w bulbs) one for each of the sections (the tank is cross braced having 3 2' by 2' holes at the top.)
I was originally looking at the luminarc 3, but am starting to think that the lumenbrights might be better due to the low wattage of the bulbs and the depth of the tank.
My thought is that the LB will penitrate to the bottom of the tank and because i am using one for each 2'by2' the spead will not matter that much.
Thoughts?
JRaquatics
New member
WOW Duce that a huge difference. Your tank is looking good. Thanks for the par readings. I stopped by Acropora nut's (Mike) house about a week ago and saw first hand a great reef tank. The new Lumenbright reflectors directed more light in the tank and less outside. After seeing the new lights on Mikes tank I decided to sell my lumenarc minis and get the Lumen bright reflectors. I should be getting them this week and I can't wait. They will be a great addition to my new tank.
Jim you rick work looks great. I must also say that Mikes coral colors have intensified since he placed the new reflectors on his tank. Everyone must see these lamps in person, if they are installed to the right height, I believe these LB reflectors are the best thing out right now for rectangular tanks.
Jim you rick work looks great. I must also say that Mikes coral colors have intensified since he placed the new reflectors on his tank. Everyone must see these lamps in person, if they are installed to the right height, I believe these LB reflectors are the best thing out right now for rectangular tanks.
bubbletip2
Premium Member
Re: 6'2'2'
Re: 6'2'2'
I am glad you have enjoyed the thread. It got a little hairy there for a bit.
I am not sure what the energy costs are in Bermuda but the first thing I would recommend is really considering betrween 175w and 250w bulbs/ballasts first. If you are planning on keeping SPS, the general recommendation with a 24" deep tank is 250w bulbs. Now I would love to see some par readings on some 175w bulbs and these new LuemnBrites. I would think from Deuce's examples that the intensity would be higher with the LumenBrites and because you have 2x2 foot areas to cover you could probably get away with lowering them a bit to maybe 10"-12" and still be fine with spread - hard to say without testing but from the anecdotal evidence we have so far I am sure it would test out positively. And with 175w bulbs you would not have to worry about heat as much as these 400w bulbs. If you do go with the 175w bulbs, I woudl have ot say that your more demanding SPS should be in the top half of the tank for sure to allow for optimal growth and color.
I just figured out the differnece betwen energy costs here on 3 - 175w vs 250w bulbs ran for 8 hours a day(would not be a problem reducing light cycle to this amount of time.) and it showed a difference of $5 per month. Again, you should really decide on the wattage first - you don't want to buy bulbs and ballasts twice - the reflectors will be good with either and can be reused but an extra $600 U.S. for a new set of bulbs and ballasts would not be an ideal situation for you I am sure.
I do love the 12K Reeflux and have a 250w on my 30g cube that is doing great. I would like to hear what you decide...
Re: 6'2'2'
I am glad you have enjoyed the thread. It got a little hairy there for a bit.
I am not sure what the energy costs are in Bermuda but the first thing I would recommend is really considering betrween 175w and 250w bulbs/ballasts first. If you are planning on keeping SPS, the general recommendation with a 24" deep tank is 250w bulbs. Now I would love to see some par readings on some 175w bulbs and these new LuemnBrites. I would think from Deuce's examples that the intensity would be higher with the LumenBrites and because you have 2x2 foot areas to cover you could probably get away with lowering them a bit to maybe 10"-12" and still be fine with spread - hard to say without testing but from the anecdotal evidence we have so far I am sure it would test out positively. And with 175w bulbs you would not have to worry about heat as much as these 400w bulbs. If you do go with the 175w bulbs, I woudl have ot say that your more demanding SPS should be in the top half of the tank for sure to allow for optimal growth and color.
I just figured out the differnece betwen energy costs here on 3 - 175w vs 250w bulbs ran for 8 hours a day(would not be a problem reducing light cycle to this amount of time.) and it showed a difference of $5 per month. Again, you should really decide on the wattage first - you don't want to buy bulbs and ballasts twice - the reflectors will be good with either and can be reused but an extra $600 U.S. for a new set of bulbs and ballasts would not be an ideal situation for you I am sure.
I do love the 12K Reeflux and have a 250w on my 30g cube that is doing great. I would like to hear what you decide...
bubbletip2
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11070443#post11070443 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Deuce67
Raised the lights to where the lamp is at 16" The dark areas in the middle got brighter and I like how it looks now. New par readings:
[/IMG]
Wow Deuce, your tank is lit up like a Christmas tree and you raised them 6 inches:eek2:
Looks really good and the middle seems to have filled quite nice. In my tank I compromised a bit and left some open room on the sides of the tank for LPS and softies. I am pretty shocked at the par readings myself. If you raise these little babies you get par to the sides where there was barely any at 10.5 inches. That acro that was at 110 is now at 340 - holy cow! Now you will have less heat transferred at the surface, better circulation in your canopy, less evaporation, and more light for all of your coral. What do you know, these things do work as they are supposed to, for aquarium keepers.
Glad to see you don't have to shell out more money for different reflectors
And thank you for doing some real testing for everyone so people can see first hand what is really going on here.
bubbletip2
Premium Member
Thanks for the complement on the ("rick")rock work. I have 30lbs of rock in the sump so that I can open the display a bit for the fish. Lots of caves and plenty of ledges for coral. Just starting this one out though so it will be a bit until we see some real progress.
And yeah Mike's tank is insane. I know you have seen a bunch of pictures but man when you see it in person do you really verify for yourself how crazy the color and growth is in the tank. Not something many people see up close for themselves. :thumbsup:
35cents kwh
35cents kwh
im in bermuda and we are talking about between 30 and 35cents a kwh. if i went with 250 in stead of 175 i would be looking at like $50 a month..(if i remember correctly.. i know it was a lot). And that was before pumps, chiller ect. ect. the thing is i dont need crazy growth, i just need to maintain. can i run a 175w on a 250 ballast? would that overdrive the bulb. mind you if i only ran the bulbs for 8 hour you might be right, it might not be that bad. when i was calc it was for 10-12 hour days.
The reason i ws going to go with the Iwakia (SP) is because on sanja website it has like a .59 efficentcy. i figure i could get the most bang for the buck.
What i am trying to do most is keep my electirc bill to a min.
35cents kwh
im in bermuda and we are talking about between 30 and 35cents a kwh. if i went with 250 in stead of 175 i would be looking at like $50 a month..(if i remember correctly.. i know it was a lot). And that was before pumps, chiller ect. ect. the thing is i dont need crazy growth, i just need to maintain. can i run a 175w on a 250 ballast? would that overdrive the bulb. mind you if i only ran the bulbs for 8 hour you might be right, it might not be that bad. when i was calc it was for 10-12 hour days.
The reason i ws going to go with the Iwakia (SP) is because on sanja website it has like a .59 efficentcy. i figure i could get the most bang for the buck.
What i am trying to do most is keep my electirc bill to a min.
bubbletip2
Premium Member
Re: 35cents kwh
Re: 35cents kwh
If you look on the home page of RC you will find a tank electrical calculator. I put in 35 cents a kwh and the difference was $63/month for 8 hours on a 250w and $44/month on the 175watters. So figure an extra $200 a year or so for food for your coral. Something to think about. Again, if you decide on the 175 watt bulbs, than place any SPS in the top 10 inches of the tank and you should be fine. Just do your research as to what SPS will be easier to maintain with lower light levels. I feel your pain on the elctric bill. Wow I thought our electric was expensive.
Your tank may be a good test to see what these LumenBrites can do. I think everyone can benefit form hearing about your progress.
Re: 35cents kwh
If you look on the home page of RC you will find a tank electrical calculator. I put in 35 cents a kwh and the difference was $63/month for 8 hours on a 250w and $44/month on the 175watters. So figure an extra $200 a year or so for food for your coral. Something to think about. Again, if you decide on the 175 watt bulbs, than place any SPS in the top 10 inches of the tank and you should be fine. Just do your research as to what SPS will be easier to maintain with lower light levels. I feel your pain on the elctric bill. Wow I thought our electric was expensive.
Your tank may be a good test to see what these LumenBrites can do. I think everyone can benefit form hearing about your progress.
MJAnderson
Premium Member
I guess I don't understand the logic of replacing a reflector that gives a broader spread with one that gives a more focused thread and then raising it up to get...a broader spread. Is it for circulation only?
MJAnderson
Premium Member
btw, here's the article I couldn't find earlier on photoinhibition and saturation points. The acros all saturate at 300-340. So if you believe the study, you're wasting light by providing anything greater than that (which would be the top half of your tank). Although they don't have photoinhibition points, I have some notes from the last MACNA at home that gave some additional readings. The one acro they do mention inhibits at 600 and saturates at 300. I think I remmeber from MACNA that monti caps hit photoinhibition around 300? It sticks out because I went home and lowered my cap. =)
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1/view?searchterm=photoinhibition
It's always difficult to gauge success from a picture, because they obvious response is 'what could it have looked like if things were done differently?'
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1/view?searchterm=photoinhibition
It's always difficult to gauge success from a picture, because they obvious response is 'what could it have looked like if things were done differently?'
bubbletip2
Premium Member
Hey MJ,
I think you can answer your own question if you read through my dribble to why it is so important to raise your lights. Secondly, if you looked at the picture of the LumenArcs that I own you will see that you need to raise those too in respect to a less than optimal situation being a five foot tank. Raising your lights will create more spread, given with any reflector.
I beleive one of the biggest reasons experienced reefkeepers tend to give the advice to newcombers in the hobby that you do not need 400 watt bulbs is out of fear that they will give the advice and the person will burn their coral. By raising your lights you are decreasing the amount of UV radiation that our bulbs give off - especially DE bulbs. What amount of UV radiation is lossed by raising your lights I will leave to the scientists. But there is some lost for sure. Another reason that advice is given against 400w bulbs is the amount of heat transfer these things give off is immense. If you have 3-5 of these things over your tank, most situations will require a chiller. Excessive heat swings can mean stress on the inhabitants which tends to turn into a chain of events where much of your livestock is dead. I would be very careful myself also when giving advice to those that desire 400 watt bulbs that their set up should consider these variables.
From the previous post again, raising your lights will mean more air circulation throughout the canopy which in turn will mean less heat build up and a happy tank. And again you will have less evaporation and RO/DI water to replace.
What do you lose out on by raising your lights? Intensity!
This is the real issue here people. Why don't most reefkeepers usign Lumenarcs raise their lights? I have an answer for you, because they will spread the light out too thin and the intensity drops to a level that "maintaining" coral becomes more difficult in all areas of the tank especially on the bottom.
These LumenBrites were designed for the reefkeeper because we want the light in our tanks. Deuce's examples are very telling as we can now see that the laser beam gets much wider as you raise them to a recommended height. The intensity is still there and that is what these reflectors are all about. Deuce if I can speak for you brother, you are probaly more shocked than any of us.
The real issue here is revealed. Most tank designs have centered around keeping lights too low to get full use out of a bulb. By driving the light down in the tank instead of out, you can raise your reflectors getting all the benefits listed above and still have plenty of light to grow SPS at all levels of the aquarium granted it is not deeper than 36".
For all of those that are afraid of the possibility that aquarium coral may suffer the same photoinhibition as coral seeded in its final resting place in the ocean where noone is photoacclimating that coral to a higher depth in the ocean, I would suggest you stick to 250w bulbs. If you are concerned about your ability to keep SPS alive because you keep bleaching them under 400w bulbs than change to 250's. For those that know how to benefit from the intensity that 400w bulbs give off, more power to you. There are examples to explain every paradox in this hobby ladies and gentleman. Mike's tank is one of them.
I have been an aquarist for 28 years and have seen every gimmick in the freshwater and saltwater hobby. A few years after I started reefkeeping , I stopped contact with pretty much everyone involved in this hobby and just kept my tanks. I did not discover RC until last year and one of the big things that brought me back ironically was all the new technology that is available to reefkeepers to help us keep our livestock healthy and thriving, not just "alive." I support anyone out there that is providing products that work for us and do what they are meant to do.
The LumenBrites just happen to be a very important step in improving the light we provide our systems as simply just one piece of the puzzle to keeping a thriving reef tank. One thing is for sure I am glad I bought a 20" canopy to allow me to set up LumenBrites in an optimal way.
Jim
Deuce67
New member
Im pretty satisfied on how the LBs perform now. They are definitely meant to be installed high up. Would I get the same results with full size LAIII, I dont know and prolly will never personally know. Yes, im pretty shocked on the results being that high up and looking back at the current readings, it looked like I missed a couple of readings. In the center, higher up, on the old reading, it was showing 220. Now its up to 320. And on the left side were it showed 700 is now at 410. A couple of thing I like so far is now I have all kinds of working space above. I can even stick my head in the canopy and have a good topdown look. Second, I keep my heaters to kick on at 78 degrees. The MH just went out and the tank is at 78.6 degrees. No chiller, just a couple of Icecap fans in the hood and a small fan on the sump. Time will tell on how the results will be and Im confident Ill have positive results. I dont know anything about photoinhibition and dont really care. There is a couple of guys in my reef club who runs 1000W MH on LAIIIs on thier system with excellent results. On my old 90 my caps were getting a par reading of over 500 and it showed good growth and color. Ill stick with these LBs for now.
bubbletip2
Premium Member
I am happy to hear that it is working out. You have finally seen the "light" Deuce or should I say 'laser beams.":lol: You made yourself a believer and sometimes in this hobby that is best. You can't take everyone elses word for it all of the time, sometimes you have to give it a try and see what you think.
As I said you are now going to have less issues with heat transferred to the tank. I do not run a chiller either and have almost the same setup except I have LumenArcs. I should be getting my LumenBrites soon. I have 4 fans installed and usually only the two run and my temp swings a half a degree to a degree from 78.5-79.5. I have not been over 79 in two weeks.
As you can see for yourself how strong the LumenBrites can be, I would still recommend acclimating new coral as those 400watters are pretty strong, obviously. Acclimate them slowly and you will have a beautiful reef if all your other variables are up to par. :thumbsup:
And lastly I am glad you were able to raise your lights and were not restricted by your canopy. You will have to post some top down shots for all of us in the future.
Jim
As I said you are now going to have less issues with heat transferred to the tank. I do not run a chiller either and have almost the same setup except I have LumenArcs. I should be getting my LumenBrites soon. I have 4 fans installed and usually only the two run and my temp swings a half a degree to a degree from 78.5-79.5. I have not been over 79 in two weeks.
As you can see for yourself how strong the LumenBrites can be, I would still recommend acclimating new coral as those 400watters are pretty strong, obviously. Acclimate them slowly and you will have a beautiful reef if all your other variables are up to par. :thumbsup:
And lastly I am glad you were able to raise your lights and were not restricted by your canopy. You will have to post some top down shots for all of us in the future.
Jim
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