New Member; New Tank Setup…Need your opinions!

[Sistom]

Still tossing around ideas....Would there be a problem with dividing a 50 gallon tank into a 10Gx10Gx20Gx10G segments underneath my 46G bowfront display tank? I was thinking the dividers could separate the following; 10G Quarantine, 10G Salt mixing, 20G Sump, and then a 10G freshwater storage (using an ATO to sump). I've attached a rough diagram of my idea (I know the sump dividers are messed up as well as the proportions). What do you think? I would think that it would be a HIGHLY automated system, and I figured I could just have a spare pump to move water between the tanks as needed...Would this setup be more of a hassle then helpful? Would it be a burden to clean? What are your thoughts/suggestions???

As always, I'm still undecided on what skimmer to go with as well as a good overflow....

Looking forward to your response...

 

[pjf]

I suggest combining the return, salt mixing, and fresh water compartments together into one large return. This will allow for several days of evaporation before you need to top off. When you change your water, the return compartment can be used to mix the salt solution. Here's an example of a sump with a large return:

You will need a level controller to shut off your pumps when the water level drops to the bulkhead.

A quarantine tank inside the cabinet is not very convenient and may see very little use.

A 50-gallon tank is a bit high. You will need to place your skimmer on a stand. Sumps are usually only a foot tall.

 

[Sistom]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13196022#post13196022 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjf
I suggest combining the return, salt mixing, and fresh water compartments together into one large return. This will allow for several days of evaporation before you need to top off. When you change your water, the return compartment can be used to mix the salt solution. Here's an example of a sump with a large return:

You will need a level controller to shut off your pumps when the water level drops to the bulkhead.

A quarantine tank inside the cabinet is not very convenient and may see very little use.

A 50-gallon tank is a bit high. You will need to place your skimmer on a stand. Sumps are usually only a foot tall.

This setup looks MUCH more along the lines of what I'm probably looking for...I think its even using an Aqua C Remora Pro (which I've been eyeing up)...

Couple questions (in regards to going with a setup like the one pictured)...

Is it really necessary to quarantine everything for up to a month before putting it in my main tank? I know my "basic" books state to do this, but is it really necessary?

Also, those same two books I've been reading make it sound like you have to let your freshly mixed salt/water combo circulate for at least a day to bring the water up to temp and to ensure everything is mixed up properly so that you have the proper specific gravity. Is this not entirely true? Can you just mix a 5 gallon bucket full of water with however much salt the directions call for and dump it in the sump (ensuring SG is ok)? Is it necessary to let it mix for a certain amount of time?

These books are helpful in understanding the concepts, but lack the actual practical knowledge that comes from being in the hobby...

Thanks again for your input!

Oh, and if I went with a setup similar to that one, would it be a good idea to leave room for a refugium in the future??? Looks like adding an extra section could be easy enough...

 

[pjf]

The regular Remora pictured has been replaced by a Tunze 9010. I do not recommend the Remora because it did not perform a satisfactory job of skimming.

I do quarantine new arrivals, including algae which may contain caulerpa. However, it is more convenient to monitor new arrivals in a separate quarantine tank instead of in an under-cabinet compartment.

Here is how I change my water:

1. Stop return pump
2. Siphon (or pump) return compartment
3. Mix new filtered (or RO/DI) water and salt in return compartment
4. Stir solution with powerhead that is attached with magnet
5. Heat water and check S.G. with refractometer
6. Turn on return pump

There is no need to let the water and salt solution sit. I use a Kold Ster-il filtration unit to remove chlorine, so I treat the filtered water as if it were on tap. RO/DI units filter the water slowly so the water does sit in a holding tank by necessity, not by choice. Your protein skimmer does a good job of oxygenating the water.

With a setup like the one pictured, you can add a refugium later by moving your baffles or by adding baffles. The glass baffles are held by aquarium silicone sealant and can be removed with a razor blade.

 

[Sistom]

Here is my latest idea for a sump. It's fairly straight-forward, but I
still would appreciate your opinions on the following...

Which Design is better? 1 or 2?
Sump Tank Size?
Skimmer? HOT (Aqua C Remora Pro) or other? Tunze
Pump? Eheim 1250?

Now I wasn't necessarily planning to have a refugium, but since I'm
going to make my own sump, I figured I should weigh the benefits. What is the quick and dirty answer about refugiums? Would my setup benefit from having one? Do you need to reduce the water flowing through a refugium (which is the reasoning behind Design 1)? What should all be in a refugium?

I apologize for all the questions but I'm just trying to avoid making
any of the "rookie" mistakes in regards to purchasing equipment. I've budgeted over $1,000 for all the additional items I need (minus the tank/stand/substrate) and just want to ensure my money is put to good use. I've already pretty much scraped everything I picked out 2 weeks ago and now I'm down to a few remaining items before I make the big purchase.

Your comments and suggestions are much appreciated.

Oh, and why does everyone frown upon overflow boxes and "losing
siphon"...Looking over the design, it doesn't even seem like its
possible to loose the siphon due to the way its designed (even in the event of a power failure)...Am I missing something? I've looked into drilling my tank but If its not really necessary, I'd rather not...

-Justin

 

[pjf]

I prefer the plumbing of Sump Design 2 because of its simplicity. My suggestions are:
- Replace the triple baffle system with a single baffle. The triple baffle system is hard to clean and I do not see its benefits. A total of 2 baffles is all that you need.
- Replace the HOT skimmer with an in-sump skimmer due to the HOT skimmer's bad reputation. If you have time to wait, a skimmer study is due for publication later this year (Advanced Aquarist or Reef Alchemy).
- Keep the tank height at 12 inches to accomodate in-sump skimmers without the need for a stand.
- Keep the return flow low to match your skimmer intake rate

 

[Sistom]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13201986#post13201986 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjf
I prefer the plumbing of Sump Design 2 because of its simplicity. My suggestions are:
- Replace the triple baffle system with a single baffle. The triple baffle system is hard to clean and I do not see its benefits. A total of 2 baffles is all that you need.
- Replace the HOT skimmer with an in-sump skimmer due to the HOT skimmer's bad reputation. If you have time to wait, a skimmer study is due for publication later this year (Advanced Aquarist or Reef Alchemy).
- Keep the tank height at 12 inches to accomodate in-sump skimmers without the need for a stand.
- Keep the return flow low to match your skimmer intake rate

Points taken...

So basically if I took out the first baffle on the left that should be sufficient...I seem to remember seeing a triple baffle system and an explanation stating that it reduced a problem with micro bubbles...Made sense, but then again it could have been unique to that individuals setup...

Anyway, I'm thinking about a 20-30 gallon tank for my sump and I'll definitely keep the height at 12 inches. As far as return flow goes, I was thinking of going with 250-300gph pump, but that depends on the overflow I pick...I was going to just pick a pump that was around 50gph less than the flow of the overflow box. I think that last overflow I saw was 300gph, so in that case I would get a pump that does 250gph...I figured that would be sufficient...

Well, It looks like all I need to do now is some research (and decide) on skimmers, pumps, overflows and refugiums lol....

Thanks for your input...

-Justin

 

[pjf]

Here is a link to standard size aquariums that you may want to consider for your sump: http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/standard-aquariums.htm
The dimensions are in terms of length x width (front to back) x depth.

 

[cjilge]

set up help

set up help

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13157496#post13157496 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cabbage2003
Skip this:

Satellite Compact Fluorescent Fixtures Dual 36ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚: $168 (made by Current; 192watts)
Fluval 305 (Multi-Stage 05 Series): $150
Prizm Skimmers Prizm Deluxe: $75
2X AquaClear Powerhead Model 50: $35 x 2 = $70
2X Rotating Deflector attachments: $9.29 x 2 = $19
Coralife Power Center Dual: $45 (3 daylight/2 actinic/1 nighttime)
Aquarium Systems Synthetic Sea Salt Reef Crystals 160 gallon mix: $30

Get this

Nova Extreme HO Light Fixture - 4 x 39W 3 Lunar - 36 in. $180
Aqua C Remora Pro $200
2 x Koralia 3's $40 ea.
Reef Crystals Salt $40
Light timers $10
Good power strip with protection $10

I agree The Nova Extreme is awsome and definately Koralias and they are on sale right now at Dr Foster and Smith's the canister fiter will just cause you problems unless you plan on running phosban and carbon through it, but not for your only filtration. Good set up though. This is IMO, so good luck and keep us posted

 

[Sistom]

Quick Question; Almost ready to purchase my equipment...

I decided I'm going to get my main tank drilled. I picked out a 1" bulkhead set, but wasn't sure If 1 would allow for enough flow....I'm going to be using a Mag 7 in my sump for the return which pushes 450GPH at 4ft...Will a single 1" bulkhead be enough flow???

 

[Sistom]

Also,

What would be a good mini light for my refugium that is going to be built into my 30x12x12 20 gallon sump tank?

I was thinking a small/cheap power compact that is 18 watts (two - 9watt bulbs)...Would that be a sufficient amount of light for my refugium?

 

[pjf]

I’m assuming that you will drill a 1-7/8” hole to accommodate a 1” bulkhead. While this is more than enough for your Mag 7 which has only a ½” outlet, you have said nothing about your drainage bulkheads. Make sure that your drainage is adequate.

Figure out how you plan to mount your refugium lighting. I place my fixtures on an acrylic or tempered glass sheet. Others mount their lights on the cabinet. I’ve purchased my refugium lights from:
http://amekaaquatics.com/search.html?productcategory_id=7
http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/subsubcategorypage.asp?subcatindexid=lt-pc-15

 

[Sistom]

Perhaps I should have clarified...

For the drainage, I will be using a 1" bulkhead...That was really what I wanted to know whether it would be enough flow to compensate for the Mag 7.

For the Return, I will be using 1/2" from the Mag 7 and then connect it to a U tube return outlet (No holes for the return)....

So basically, I just need to know if a 1" tube will be enough drainage...

And about the drilling....I was either going to drill it myself (scary, I know) in which I would buy a 1" diamond bit from Anytime Tools...Or just take it somewhere to be professionally done...Are you telling me that a 1" bulkhead is slightly bigger than 1"? I figured that a 1" drill bit would take a 1" plug out of the glass? Is this incorrect?

Thanks for the info as always!

 

[Sistom]

Ok, I guess I get the drill bit size thing (1" hole 1" bulkhead)...but I figured the bit itself would leave a little wiggle room because of the rough (wide) cut it makes....If I'm incorrect, could I possible just move the bit in a circle after the hole is cut to very slightly widen the hole? I've never cut glass before, but I am pretty mechanically inclined...

(I actually ordered the 1" bit from ebay thats why I'm hoping I could make it work....if not, I will just take it in to be done professionally)

 

[Sistom]

In addition to my drainage question above...Where can I get a shutoff switch to stop my sump pump in the event the water runs low?

These are the last few questions I have!

 

[pjf]

I personally like bulkheads for both drainage and return. An over-the-top return does not look professional to me.

A schedule 80 or schedule 40 PVC bulkhead with a nominal (internal) 1” diameter needs a 1-7/8” hole. Here is a list of schedule 80 bulkheads with nominal (internal) and hole diameters: http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Bulkheads_Inland_Seas_Sch_80_Grey_s/456.htm

A 1” ABS bulkhead needs a 1-3/4” hole (http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Bulkheads_JT_Black_s/455.htm).

You will find additional bulkheads here: http://www.aquaticeco.com/search/0/bulkhead

I bought my level controller here: http://www.reeffanatic.com/products/float-switch-and-level-control/level-controller.asp

 

[Sistom]

I agree with you on the U tube not looking very professional....I think I will reconsider and just put a 1/2" bulkhead for the return...

So do you think a 1" bulkhead for the drainage will be enough for my mag 7?

Also, do you know of any websites that show were to place holes on a tank (proper depth, location, etc?) I definitely don't want to mess up my hole locations...I guess most importantly I need to know at what depth to drill the drain and return holes...

Thanks for your help as always!

OH! and I ordered my equipment last night Pretty excited! I also purchased an RO/DI unit after finding out my local fish store charges $.75/plain filtered water and $1.25 for mixed per gallon! I thought that was freakin ridiculous! At that rate I'd have my whole unit payed for in several months! not to mention the convience! That guy was crazy...Oh, and his live rock was I think $8.00 a pound! Isn't that pretty HIGH?!?!? He said it was cured, but when he was showing me some of the pieces, stuff was falling off the rocks???Like they were still in the curing process or something...I dunno if I trust the guy....oppinions? Anyone?

Anyway, as soon as I start getting things set up I'll take some pictures and post them! Whether you know it or not, most of my setup was based off the information I read here!

 

[pjf]

Are you are planning a "Calfo" or "coast to coast" overflow as pictured at: http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx?

If so, the author of the article recommends 3 bulkheads for drains plus a 4th bulkhead for return. I have no experience with Calfo overflows, so I will defer to others here.

For aesthetics, I would make all of the bulkheads the same size.