Exotic Reef.
New member
i been in the hobby for 5 years and im seting up a nuvo 16 gallon..
i have a few questions
do sea horses need sand or is that a preference ?
i have a few questions
do sea horses need sand or is that a preference ?
new nano sea horse tank
- Thread starter Exotic Reef.
- Start date
I'm not sure that there are any species available right now for that small of a tank other than OR's fisheri. Take note, they feed on copepods and they recommend two pair minimum.
http://seahorse.com/shop/Hawaiian-Hippocampus-fisheri.html
There capensis are "out of stock" right now.
http://seahorse.com/shop/Zulu-Lulu-Hippocampus-Capensis-Single.html
Standard seahorses should have 29/30g for one pair, with an additional 15g for each additional pair. That includes reidi, kuda, erectus barbouri angustus and comes for the more common available.
http://seahorse.com/shop/Hawaiian-Hippocampus-fisheri.html
There capensis are "out of stock" right now.
http://seahorse.com/shop/Zulu-Lulu-Hippocampus-Capensis-Single.html
Standard seahorses should have 29/30g for one pair, with an additional 15g for each additional pair. That includes reidi, kuda, erectus barbouri angustus and comes for the more common available.
Exotic Reef.
New member
Oh wow did not know that . So is it similar to tangs how they say you should only have them in big tanks ..
Also which link is the one that is recommend for a 16 g nano , the first or second one ?
Also which link is the one that is recommend for a 16 g nano , the first or second one ?
OK, I erred in my last post saying that the fisheri needed copepods. It's their fry that need baby copepods.
That out of the way, either of those should work for a 16g tank but the second one is out of stock so there is no choice at this time.
Be aware too that you need protection over intakes so the very small seahorses can't get caught up.
You shouldn't need a heater, and in fact, may need a chiller.
Tropical seahorses are recommended kept at 68° to 74°F due to their problems with nasty bacteria. These nasty bacteria multiply exponentially, especially above 74°F.
Also because of nasty bacteria, the tanks need to be over-filtered, and if possible, over-sized skimmed with extra due attention during husbandry chores to seek out hidden pockets of detritus/uneaten food pieces that provide food and bedding for the bacteria.
They don't list any specific requirements for the fisheri.
If they get the capensis back in stock, they are a bit larger but temperatures are needed a bit lower.
From their writing:
That out of the way, either of those should work for a 16g tank but the second one is out of stock so there is no choice at this time.
Be aware too that you need protection over intakes so the very small seahorses can't get caught up.
You shouldn't need a heater, and in fact, may need a chiller.
Tropical seahorses are recommended kept at 68° to 74°F due to their problems with nasty bacteria. These nasty bacteria multiply exponentially, especially above 74°F.
Also because of nasty bacteria, the tanks need to be over-filtered, and if possible, over-sized skimmed with extra due attention during husbandry chores to seek out hidden pockets of detritus/uneaten food pieces that provide food and bedding for the bacteria.
They don't list any specific requirements for the fisheri.
If they get the capensis back in stock, they are a bit larger but temperatures are needed a bit lower.
From their writing:
The large tank for seahorses are not necessary (just don't but 5 seahorse in a 5 gallon tank). Yes the lager varieties need more space the dwarfs, which is not saying much considering their max size is 10-15 mm and are one of the few sepcies that you can have a colony of the in small tank. 20 gallons is sufficient for 1 pair(2 seahorse) maybe 2 pairs (4 seahorses) if you really want. So no you don't need a 60 gallon tank for 6 seahorse, 30 to 40 gallons will be fine.
The odds of anyone succeeding long term with small tanks is very slim although it has worked occasionally for some. In the attempts to do so, many seahorses have lost their lives.
Before giving any credit to the above advice, please do more research.
There is a current thread in which experienced seahorse hobbyists have participated in, as well as Dan Underwood of seahorsesource.com who is always advising would be hobbyists on best ways to succeed in this hobby, even if they are not buying their stock and products from him.
Thread on Marine Depot Blog
Seahorses do not need sand. Take your time and see which method you want to try your hand at. Some prefer nearly sterile environments, some prefer more natural. Some have corals, some don't. Mostly you want to worry about tank size. My single pair used every inch of my 34 gallon solana. I couldn't imagine going smaller, especially in height. You will hear lots about flow. As long as a rest area is provided it doesn't matter, but they are not strong swimmers. Flow is better with a powerhead (screened), than an overflow/return. They tend to get stuck to the intake if they are not careful, and they are not very smart. Not to say you shouldn't have a sump, but be ready to dial it down if necessary. They require twice daily frozen food if not provided with an environment that copepods thrive in...and they will hunt down as many as they can find. Keep this in mind if you want to ever go on vacation. And they don't tend to be long-lived...which is a pain if you put alot of work into the right habitat.
If by "dial it down" you mean to cut back on flow, that would be the wrong way to go IMO. Rather, make it so the overflow can't suck them against it and have GOOD flow. Nothing wrong with 20X flow or more.
With better flow, you can keep uneaten food and detritus in suspension longer for better chance of removal by the filtration system(s).
I'm assuming you don't mean the copepods with this statement.
For seahorses, long lived would vary with your interpretation of it I guess.
Dwarf seahorses should live 1 1/2 to sometimes 2 years on average, but standard seahorses under proper conditions should get 5 to 7 years and sometimes more.
Dial down, meaning the overflow (or screen to reduce suction), but in my opinion it should be replaced by active flow within the tank like powerheads if that becomes necessary...like you said to keep detritus from settling.
Yes, I agree on the lifespan, but you tend to see just a few years max for the aveage aquarist. That is definitely helped by good breeding programs that cull the weakest, and just plain old experience with seahorses specifically.
For me, flow is flow. The sump return adds flow and I use power heads and open ended air lines as well.
IMO, it's not that one method is better than the other, just comes down to personal preference.
All my seahorse tanks have sumps, and even most of my fry set ups have sumps as well.
A sump is an excellent way to increase the total volume making the system more forgivable, as well as for me, providing the place to put my live rock as I don't like having to search around the rockwork to see my seahorses. It's bad enough they hide in the decor and macro.
IMO, it's not that one method is better than the other, just comes down to personal preference.
All my seahorse tanks have sumps, and even most of my fry set ups have sumps as well.
A sump is an excellent way to increase the total volume making the system more forgivable, as well as for me, providing the place to put my live rock as I don't like having to search around the rockwork to see my seahorses. It's bad enough they hide in the decor and macro.
