New plumbing
- Thread starter redvicki
- Start date
Playa-1
In Memoriam
Usually in your situation it's just a matter of slowing the volume down a little thru the sump. This is accomplished by partially closing the ball valve between the return pump and the display tank. Do you know how much water volume is currently running thru the sump?
What are you using for a return pump?
What are you using for a return pump?
Okay, it's not my drain line burping it's my return. The noise seems to be the least of my troubles right now. I used Mineral Mudd in my fuge and it seems all night when it burped it was shooting black dust into my display tank. So I've shut the sump down for now. My plans are to clean up my sump and pump when I get home and replace the nasty Mudd with a mix of sand and Mudd. Can I just kind of turn the Mudd dust over in my sand bed? My return pump is the ViaAqua 1800. I'm thinking that the dust was making it burp. Does that seem possible?
Can someone explain again how I prevent a flood if the power goes out? I'm just not getting it...if I put a hole in my return line just below my water level how will that help? Won't my drain line keeep draining until the display tanks water level drops below the overflow boxes level? Thanks.
Can someone explain again how I prevent a flood if the power goes out? I'm just not getting it...if I put a hole in my return line just below my water level how will that help? Won't my drain line keeep draining until the display tanks water level drops below the overflow boxes level? Thanks.
Playa-1
In Memoriam
Do you have an overflow/skimmer box in the display tank? If you do then that is what prevents excess water from draining into your sump thru the drain line, Along with a drain standpipe.
The return line will also drain water back into your sump when the power goes out. The way it works is when the pump looses power then a siphon is created. The tank will flow into the sump until it gets air in the line that will break the siphon. So to minimize this effect you want to set your return lines just under the surface of the display tank. As soon as the water level drains enough to allow air to be pulled in to the return line the siphon will be broken and the tank will stop draining into the sump.
There are other ways that are less effective, one of them being, drilling a hole on the underside of the return line near the surface of the display tank. With this method, the tank would drain to the hole that is in the return line, It would in theory allow air into the line that would break the siphon and stop the display from draining into the sump. The problem with this method is that the hole can become plugged up with salt creep or who knows what else rendering it useless.
** The trick is to put the return lines in your display tank so that the least amount of water can drain out of the tank before air gets in the line.
** The lower the return lines are located in the display tank, The more water will back-flow (siphon) into the sump.
** The higher the return lines are located in the display tank, The less water will back-flow (siphon) into the sump.
** There has to be a balance of how much extra water your sump can hold and how deep you have your overflow lines placed into your display tank. Once you have them adjusted where you think they should be, then unplug the return pump to test it.
The return line will also drain water back into your sump when the power goes out. The way it works is when the pump looses power then a siphon is created. The tank will flow into the sump until it gets air in the line that will break the siphon. So to minimize this effect you want to set your return lines just under the surface of the display tank. As soon as the water level drains enough to allow air to be pulled in to the return line the siphon will be broken and the tank will stop draining into the sump.
There are other ways that are less effective, one of them being, drilling a hole on the underside of the return line near the surface of the display tank. With this method, the tank would drain to the hole that is in the return line, It would in theory allow air into the line that would break the siphon and stop the display from draining into the sump. The problem with this method is that the hole can become plugged up with salt creep or who knows what else rendering it useless.
** The trick is to put the return lines in your display tank so that the least amount of water can drain out of the tank before air gets in the line.
** The lower the return lines are located in the display tank, The more water will back-flow (siphon) into the sump.
** The higher the return lines are located in the display tank, The less water will back-flow (siphon) into the sump.
** There has to be a balance of how much extra water your sump can hold and how deep you have your overflow lines placed into your display tank. Once you have them adjusted where you think they should be, then unplug the return pump to test it.
Last edited:
Playa-1
In Memoriam
I think I would try and make it work without the sand first. Since you already have it in there. Might as well give it a good test and see how it works. I would turn it and try and get some of the air out. I've never used this stuff so maybe somebody can chime in with some first hand experience.
