New Setup : 120 Gallon Peninsula : First Reef Tank

[m3ch]

Hey everyone!

I am starting up my very first reef tank. I have had freshwater setups in the past so a lot of the concepts of cycling and whatnot are not completely foreign to me but I will be the first to admit I have a lot of learning to do!

Currently my only equipment for my new setup is a 55g standard that I will be using as a sump, a 120 gallon display (that I am having delivered tomorrow), a few Brute trash cans for water holding, and about 75lbs of dry DIY rock that I made out of oyster shell, white Portland cement, and rock salt (made this about 2 months ago and has been curing in fresh water since).

My plan is to take my time, start slowly as a FOWLR tank with reef safe inhabitants only and slowly move on to coral once I have a good handle on everything.

Here is what I am looking at going with. I am not set on any of this and looking for suggestions (or used equipment offers as I would love to save a bit of cash by getting hand me downs while starting up):

• 120 gallon Display set up in a peninsula style. Rough 3D renderings of the stand later in post.
• 55 gallon sump located under main display with custom cut baffles
• Main collection area with skimmer setup internally
• Bubble trap leading to return/heaters/gfo & carbon reactors
• Remaining space allocated to refugium and growing Chaeto w/CFL grow light
• Reef Octopus Classic 200int or similar
• 1 Maxspect XF-150 Gyre or 2 Jebao RW-8/15
• Ghost overflow or custom built low profile C2C internal overflow with holes drilled leading to external overflow box containing BeanAnimal drain.
• 2 MarsAqua dimmable 165W LED Full Spectrum or similar.
• 2 Aquatop submersible 300 watt heaters
• 2 DIY reactors for carbon and GFO
• Jebao DCT-8000 submersible pump
• Power: 68-watt, Max flow: 2113GPH; Max-head: 14.8 ft
• 4 stage 75GPD RODI system from BulkReefSupply
• Tunze Osmolator ATO in 5gallon bucket (starting with pure RODI and eventually Kalkwasser as needed)
• 2" Medium grain sandbed
• 50-75 lbs in the display (hoping to keep it minimal looking as it will be a room divider peninsula style)
• Extra biomedia/rock within sump
• Digital Aquatics Reefkeeper lite (Yes, I am sure the Apex is WAY better this will be my little gateway drug into aquarium controllers and I will probably upgrade once I actually get to putting in corals)
• Hopefully that covers most of where I am at and gives you a good idea of what I am going for.

I am new to this board and to the hobby so please be gentle! I'm still learning and appreciate any constructive advice and opinions I can get.

Thanks for looking!

This shows the stand I am planning without any panels. Constructed out of 2x4s and plywood.

 

[Shawn O]

Sounds good. Good plan, going fowlr and preparing for coral after you get the hang of SW tanks. Seems senseless to buy corals (expensive animals) and end up having them die due to not knowing how to maintain SW.

Is the 120 going to be shorter than the stand, as in the picture? What are your plans for the area of the stand that the tank does not cover? Plan on making the stand tall enough to work in the sump if you're going to be using a 55. Maybe some of the others here will chime in on a preferred amount of clearance between the sump and the stand to give you a ideas for a good, workable setup.

 

[m3ch]

Sounds good. Good plan, going fowlr and preparing for coral after you get the hang of SW tanks. Seems senseless to buy corals (expensive animals) and end up having them die due to not knowing how to maintain SW.

Is the 120 going to be shorter than the stand, as in the picture? What are your plans for the area of the stand that the tank does not cover? Plan on making the stand tall enough to work in the sump if you're going to be using a 55. Maybe some of the others here will chime in on a preferred amount of clearance between the sump and the stand to give you a ideas for a good, workable setup.

Hey Shawn O!

Thanks for the input!

Let me clarify a bit more about my stand.

The tank is going to be shorter than the stand. The total length of the stand will be 8' and the tank itself (48x24x24) will be right in the middle with 2' on either side. The wall side will be built up into a hanging canopy which allows me to hide wires and plumbing the opposite open end will be there as a partial console table as my sofa will be backed up against it. This tank will be a room divider between a long and open living room and dining room.

The area of the stand that the tank will sit on is 3' high and the sump will be sitting on a platform below the tank which is 2.25" high. The 55 gallon is around 21" tall. This should give me about 1' of clearance over the top of the sump. That is unless my math is totally off!

 

[dbl]

Congrats on the new build. My system (my first as well) is nearly identical to your plans, except the overhang, and mine is 40" tall. If I can offer one suggestion, I would encourage you to reconsider using the 55g as your sump. Two issues I've discovered with its use...too tall and too narrow. I think you'll be surprised how tight it will get under the stand. And it's so narrow (12") it will limit your skimmer choices...your current skimmer may fit but a great number will not.

Just for fun, here is a picture of mine just after getting it started (a year and a half ago) to show the similarities.

 

[Bent]

You guys are giving me peninsula-envy.

 

[m3ch]

Congrats on the new build. My system (my first as well) is nearly identical to your plans, except the overhang, and mine is 40" tall. If I can offer one suggestion, I would encourage you to reconsider using the 55g as your sump. Two issues I've discovered with its use...too tall and too narrow. I think you'll be surprised how tight it will get under the stand. And it's so narrow (12") it will limit your skimmer choices...your current skimmer may fit but a great number will not.

Just for fun, here is a picture of mine just after getting it started (a year and a half ago) to show the similarities.

Its nearly identical because I used your build as inspiration for mine! So I owe you a big thank you from before you even responded to my thread! Your setup is amazing looking!

If you had to do it all over again what changes would you make? What size sump would you suggest instead?

Thanks again for your advice and inspiration!

 

[LuciDog]

Welcome

Custom built stands are my fav, one day I'll give it a go!

Sorry I didn't read your actual dimensions (because I'm exhausted right now) but you should be very careful with your stand height.

Measure your skimmer. Your going to want at least 2" between the top of your collection cup, to the top of the available space under your DT, or your going to have a hard time emptying it and cleaning in there.

Also, decide now what your future plans are and buy accordingly. You really don't want to buy twice (once you upgrade to reef). Make sure your gear can handle future plans. The bug doesn't take long to kick in

 

[m3ch]

Welcome

Custom built stands are my fav, one day I'll give it a go!

Sorry I didn't read your actual dimensions (because I'm exhausted right now) but you should be very careful with your stand height.

Measure your skimmer. Your going to want at least 2" between the top of your collection cup, to the top of the available space under your DT, or your going to have a hard time emptying it and cleaning in there.

Also, decide now what your future plans are and buy accordingly. You really don't want to buy twice (once you upgrade to reef). Make sure your gear can handle future plans. The bug doesn't take long to kick in

Thanks for the feedback!

I hope to have around 1ft of clearance the top of my sump to the area where the display tank is being held. That is if I end up using the 55 gallon and not change out for something else.

As far as planning for the future you would laugh at where I started when I first decided I wanted to give a reef tank a shot. I was talking about doing a 10 gallon nano display with a 20 gallon sump! Then it was two 40 breeders....then a 75....then a 90 and then I put an end to it by just going out and buying a 120 gallon which I pick up tomorrow! I really hope I don't decide to go any bigger any time soon.

Although if you look at my stand design it can accommodate a tank 2ft longer....for....reasons. :lolspin:

 

[m3ch]

You guys are giving me peninsula-envy.

I just hate to see that much glass end up painted and/or up against a wall! Plus with what I am doing I will be able to enjoy it from multiple rooms. :bounce3:

 

[MaccaPopEye]

I can't see pictures because Im at work but it sounds very well thought out. 1 foot of room will be heaps above the sump. Just measure your skimmer and make sure there will be room to take the cup off. I have a bit over 1" above my cup and it is a strugle to get out every time. I also like the idea of having the 2' at the back of the tank to hide plugs and wires, that should work very well.

There is also no reason to go FOWLR for too long. That is what I planned and I had some LPS and softies in my tank before I had fish! As long as it is cycled and you are doing regular water changes a few corals will be fine. With prior experience and a lot of research it shouldnt take too long to get the hang of water chemistry.

I have a similar sized tank (120cmx51cmx65cm) and have 2 Jebao RW8s in there and they provide enough flow on 80%. But since you are doing a peninsula build I dont know how well they will go with them both on the back wall. They should be fine but I would lean more towards the gyre. I have seen a gyre in action on the same tank I have and it worked really well.

I recently got some MarsAqua lights myself and really like them. 2 probably would have been fine for my tank but due to 2 very difficult black braces I got 3 so that I wouldnt get shadowing. I still get shadowing. But I really like the coverage with 3 and dont think I would have been happy with 2 (even though it would work). And even when getting 3 they are still cheap compared to other brands.

Can't comment on the return pump but that is the one on my wish list. I would recomend running your reactors off a manifold from the return if that isnt your plan already.

Minimal rock in the DT is fine as long as your sump has plenty. I would suggest using some marine pure blocks in your sump. From what I have read they are the best bang for your buck and are an easy shape to put in your sump.

Overall it looks like it will be a great build and what I would be doing if I could go back and start again.

Cheers,

Macca

 

[LuciDog]

It sounds like a ton of room, just check your skimmer height before you build to be sure. It would SUCK to find out that it doesn't fit. Most skimmers are pretty tall. Mine towers over my sump.

120 gal is a good size. That's what I have and its suited me well... Although I do dream of 250+... LOL.

 

[dbl]

Its nearly identical because I used your build as inspiration for mine! So I owe you a big thank you from before you even responded to my thread! Your setup is amazing looking!

If you had to do it all over again what changes would you make? What size sump would you suggest instead?

Thanks again for your advice and inspiration!

Well thanks for the kind words. I'm glad (and a little flattered) you were able to get some inspiration from my build. You will love the 3-sided view of the peninsula. I will address some of the topics that have arisen from your thread, solely based on my personal experience with essentially the same setup. May get a little long winded so forgive me in advance, but since you asked, I want to provide as much information as I can.

Clearance: You will have plenty at 36" stand height. However, if your circumstances will allow you to go a little higher (say 40") I would encourage you to consider it. Remember, everything has to be under the display or in the 2' tower section against the wall. Getting things to fit is one thing, having ample room to maneuver and make changes is another. For example, getting the skimmer cup out has been mentioned. What if you need to remove the entire skimmer? As I said prior, you will be shocked how quickly the space will get filled. Besides, even at 36", unless you're 7' tall, you are going to need a small ladder to reach the bottom, so what's another 4" if it works in to your plans.

The Stand: You mentioned a platform at the bottom being 2.25" high. What I did was simply made the bottom the bottom. What I mean is my entire stand is resting on top of a sheet of ¾" plywood, so the floor is essentially the bottom of my stand. Again, pick up as much room as possible. Additionally, the "œtower" against the wall and the canopy itself, there is no need to use 2X4's. Use a 1X3 or 1x4 instead. It will save space and weight. That is one thing I wished I would have done differently.

As you can see in the picture, the top of my canopy is open. I did this intentionally for ventilation purposes. I actually have a small fan blowing up the tower against the wall to help heat dissipate from the sump area. I'm in Florida so heat is a problem, may not apply to you. I did end up installing a DIY dark colored screen on the top (not in picture). It helps keep things out and also helps with diffusing the light bleed. Although I simply think of the light bleed on the ceiling as mood lighting!

Sump: I'm actually in the process of designing a new sump to rid myself of the headache 55g sump. My initial design is 16" tall, 18" wide, and the length is TBD still. Remember, you'll want to leave room for future equipment such as dosing containers/reactors/ATO Containers/etc. If I were to do it again, and without going custom or other pre-made sump, I would have used a 40g breeder (wait for the $1/gallon sale). Yes you lose a foot in length, but it's not so tall and 6" wider.

Return Plumbing: Unless I missed it, I didn't see how you plan to feed your reactors. Are you planning on using a manifold off your return pump? If that is the case, I would probably recommend stepping up to the 12000 pump. Since it's adjustable, you can dial it down to meet your needs if necessary. I'm using the Waveline 12000 and running a manifold. I use it nearly at full speed because I'm also feeding a chiller. It would provide a little more flexibility for the extra $30-$40.

Flow: You may or may not feel the same way; I didn't want to see any powerheads on the glass! I did a CL system and it has worked great. But I will say, I recently added a Gyre 150 to the wall end for additional flow. I actually mounted it inside my overflow box (mine is custom made and internal to the tank) and I'm loving it. Actually I should say my SPS love it.

Lighting: I know nothing about your light choice. What I do know is I started off with two AI Vega's and it was fine for a while. What I noticed was I wasn't getting the coverage over the entire tank the way I wanted. I ended up adding two additional Vega's which I realize it probably overkill for a 120g. But I get great coverage now (two on either side of the center brace). That's something you'll just have to play around with once you get bitten by the coral bug!

Please keep in mind I'm not an expert at any of this. As I said in the start, these are simply my experiences thus far. This is my first go at aquaria as well so I'm still learning each and every day.

I've rambled enough and will shut up now. I will certainly be following your build and am happy to answer any questions. You can PM if you'd prefer and I'm happy to share what I can, including pictures. I just don't want to junk up your build thread further. Good luck in putting it all together.

 

[Cymonous]

Only issue I see is there is no vertical support on your stand for the two corners of the tank away from the wall.

Otherwise, good luck!

 

[Shawn O]

Flow: You may or may not feel the same way; I didn't want to see any powerheads on the glass! I did a CL system and it has worked great. But I will say, I recently added a Gyre 150 to the wall end for additional flow. I actually mounted it inside my overflow box (mine is custom made and internal to the tank) and I'm loving it. Actually I should say my SPS love it.

This build would definitely call for a Gyre at the wall end and have the returns come in from the top, at the other end of the tank.

 

[m3ch]

I can't see pictures because Im at work but it sounds very well thought out. 1 foot of room will be heaps above the sump. Just measure your skimmer and make sure there will be room to take the cup off. I have a bit over 1" above my cup and it is a strugle to get out every time. I also like the idea of having the 2' at the back of the tank to hide plugs and wires, that should work very well.

There is also no reason to go FOWLR for too long. That is what I planned and I had some LPS and softies in my tank before I had fish! As long as it is cycled and you are doing regular water changes a few corals will be fine. With prior experience and a lot of research it shouldnt take too long to get the hang of water chemistry.

I have a similar sized tank (120cmx51cmx65cm) and have 2 Jebao RW8s in there and they provide enough flow on 80%. But since you are doing a peninsula build I dont know how well they will go with them both on the back wall. They should be fine but I would lean more towards the gyre. I have seen a gyre in action on the same tank I have and it worked really well.

I recently got some MarsAqua lights myself and really like them. 2 probably would have been fine for my tank but due to 2 very difficult black braces I got 3 so that I wouldnt get shadowing. I still get shadowing. But I really like the coverage with 3 and dont think I would have been happy with 2 (even though it would work). And even when getting 3 they are still cheap compared to other brands.

Can't comment on the return pump but that is the one on my wish list. I would recomend running your reactors off a manifold from the return if that isnt your plan already.

Minimal rock in the DT is fine as long as your sump has plenty. I would suggest using some marine pure blocks in your sump. From what I have read they are the best bang for your buck and are an easy shape to put in your sump.

Overall it looks like it will be a great build and what I would be doing if I could go back and start again.

Cheers,

Macca

Thanks for the input!

Running a manifold off the main pump is a good idea and would probably help with heat even though I am going LED.

Speaking of LED I am glad to hear you like the MarsAqua lights. I was a bit hesitant about them as I can't find them sold in any LFS.

As far as the marine pure blocks I definitely can see myself trying one out as I really want to keep the aquascape open if possible.

 

[m3ch]

Well thanks for the kind words. I'm glad (and a little flattered) you were able to get some inspiration from my build. You will love the 3-sided view of the peninsula. I will address some of the topics that have arisen from your thread, solely based on my personal experience with essentially the same setup. May get a little long winded so forgive me in advance, but since you asked, I want to provide as much information as I can.

Clearance: You will have plenty at 36" stand height. However, if your circumstances will allow you to go a little higher (say 40") I would encourage you to consider it. Remember, everything has to be under the display or in the 2' tower section against the wall. Getting things to fit is one thing, having ample room to maneuver and make changes is another. For example, getting the skimmer cup out has been mentioned. What if you need to remove the entire skimmer? As I said prior, you will be shocked how quickly the space will get filled. Besides, even at 36", unless you're 7' tall, you are going to need a small ladder to reach the bottom, so what's another 4" if it works in to your plans.

The Stand: You mentioned a platform at the bottom being 2.25" high. What I did was simply made the bottom the bottom. What I mean is my entire stand is resting on top of a sheet of ¾" plywood, so the floor is essentially the bottom of my stand. Again, pick up as much room as possible. Additionally, the "œtower" against the wall and the canopy itself, there is no need to use 2X4's. Use a 1X3 or 1x4 instead. It will save space and weight. That is one thing I wished I would have done differently.

As you can see in the picture, the top of my canopy is open. I did this intentionally for ventilation purposes. I actually have a small fan blowing up the tower against the wall to help heat dissipate from the sump area. I'm in Florida so heat is a problem, may not apply to you. I did end up installing a DIY dark colored screen on the top (not in picture). It helps keep things out and also helps with diffusing the light bleed. Although I simply think of the light bleed on the ceiling as mood lighting!

Sump: I'm actually in the process of designing a new sump to rid myself of the headache 55g sump. My initial design is 16" tall, 18" wide, and the length is TBD still. Remember, you'll want to leave room for future equipment such as dosing containers/reactors/ATO Containers/etc. If I were to do it again, and without going custom or other pre-made sump, I would have used a 40g breeder (wait for the $1/gallon sale). Yes you lose a foot in length, but it's not so tall and 6" wider.

Return Plumbing: Unless I missed it, I didn't see how you plan to feed your reactors. Are you planning on using a manifold off your return pump? If that is the case, I would probably recommend stepping up to the 12000 pump. Since it's adjustable, you can dial it down to meet your needs if necessary. I'm using the Waveline 12000 and running a manifold. I use it nearly at full speed because I'm also feeding a chiller. It would provide a little more flexibility for the extra $30-$40.

Flow: You may or may not feel the same way; I didn't want to see any powerheads on the glass! I did a CL system and it has worked great. But I will say, I recently added a Gyre 150 to the wall end for additional flow. I actually mounted it inside my overflow box (mine is custom made and internal to the tank) and I'm loving it. Actually I should say my SPS love it.

Lighting: I know nothing about your light choice. What I do know is I started off with two AI Vega's and it was fine for a while. What I noticed was I wasn't getting the coverage over the entire tank the way I wanted. I ended up adding two additional Vega's which I realize it probably overkill for a 120g. But I get great coverage now (two on either side of the center brace). That's something you'll just have to play around with once you get bitten by the coral bug!

Please keep in mind I'm not an expert at any of this. As I said in the start, these are simply my experiences thus far. This is my first go at aquaria as well so I'm still learning each and every day.

I've rambled enough and will shut up now. I will certainly be following your build and am happy to answer any questions. You can PM if you'd prefer and I'm happy to share what I can, including pictures. I just don't want to junk up your build thread further. Good luck in putting it all together.

Wow! Thank you so much for all of this information!

I love the idea you had for the stand and putting the bottom under the 2x4 base. I swear you can stare and think about something for so long that you lose sight of obvious little improvements that could end up making a world of difference and the extra space you just found for me could end up making a big difference!

One thing I think I will like about my stand build is that I will have an extra 2' at one end of the tank under the DT. It will probably be where all my reactors and ATO container are going to be stored.

Really happy to hear that the Gyre is working out for you in that way...I had my doubts about being able to give SPS a go without adding something to the end viewing glass and your comment has probably just sold me on going with the Gyre. Have you had any problems getting a good skim over your overflow with the Gyre mounted on it like that?

 

[m3ch]

Only issue I see is there is no vertical support on your stand for the two corners of the tank away from the wall.

Otherwise, good luck!

Great point! I may just go ahead and move the vertical supports under the main rails directly under the corners of the DT. I plan on doing some long removable panel so its not like I need to keep things exactly symmetrical for cabinet doors or anything.

Thanks!

 

[m3ch]

It sounds like a ton of room, just check your skimmer height before you build to be sure. It would SUCK to find out that it doesn't fit. Most skimmers are pretty tall. Mine towers over my sump.

120 gal is a good size. That's what I have and its suited me well... Although I do dream of 250+... LOL.

Don't get me reconsidering another size up already!!!

 

[m3ch]

This build would definitely call for a Gyre at the wall end and have the returns come in from the top, at the other end of the tank.

Good suggestion. I was thinking about running pvc along the inside trim of the tank to keep it as hidden as possible. Or, do you think positioning the returns so they spray directly in front of the Gyre and let the Gyre do all the major circulation with the freshly filtered water would be good enough?

 

[dbl]

Simply run your returns along the top of the tank trim. They will be hidden by the canopy. The only thing you'll see is the loc-line outlets (if that's the route you take) at the top of the short display panel. Let the Gyre push across the top and the returns push back to the wall, just as Shawn described. I have not had any issues with water skimming over the weir. Just remember, the water has to flow out if it's being pumped in to the display!

I will PM you a picture or two of what I'm talking about regarding the plumbing run. And yes, I forgot about the extra storage you will have below, but I will say it does not tempt me to alter any prior suggestions. In my opinion, you'll eventually be happy with the additional space, regardless of how you achieve it.