new tank, 1st fish has ich

mlivvy

em-lee-vee
i just setup a new tank. Its been running for about 2 weeks with nothing in it other than LR, sand, and a few nass snails. I added the first fish (a perc clown) a few days ago and I noticed yesterday the fish may be sick with ich. It has dandruff on his head and body but he is swimming around and eating ok.

Being that the tank is still new, what is my best option to treat the fish and/or the tank? The tank also has a large UV installed.
 
UV cannot eliminate ich and ich can't be eliminated in a tank with LR, inverts, etc. The fish needs to be treated in a QT (read the tank-transfer sticky) and the DT left fishless for 10+ weeks. Then, use the QT with all new fish and you shouldn't have this problem. Despite the claims, there is no product that will solve your problem when used in the DT. Sorry, but this is a classic example of why a QT is mandatory.
 
I don't really have room for a QT. I'll make it an option for the long run but for now i'm trying to see what I can do to help the fish.
 
mr tuskfish. If you had a new set up that has never had a fish in it would you be able to do a FW dip on all new arrivals to rid them of the parasite before you added them into the tank.
 
IMO if you can not remove the fish from the source of the ich and treat. Then there is not much you can do other than let nature take its course and see what happens. Also if you add more fish to the DT most likely they will eventually come down with ich. Just my 2 cents
 
mr tuskfish. If you had a new set up that has never had a fish in it would you be able to do a FW dip on all new arrivals to rid them of the parasite before you added them into the tank.

FW dips do nothing for parasites. You should have had the new tank ten weeks without any fish then have all things added properly qt'd. You don't have room for a ten gallon qt? Closet? Kitchen counter? Nite stand? Only way to rid the tank of ich now is remove the fish and treat via copper and fallow the display twelve weeks.
 
treat with copper. my hippo has all white spot over his body after treat it with cupramine after 14 days in the small QT tank. itch is gone and fish back to normal. below is what I used.

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After lots of reading I think i'm going to setup a small QT in a large closet we have in the kitchen.

Now, my questions are.. If the fish came home with ich and he is the only inhabitant in the tank, will the strain be away from the host already? If I pull him out is the tank still ich free?
 
In all probability the DT is infected and should stay fishless for 10+ weeks. After spending the time and effort to cure your fish do you really want to roll the dice your tank is ich free. FWIW my QT sits in my closet until it is needed then back into the closet when I am done.
 
Just keep feeding it good food, and the clown will eventually kick the ick. As long as the fish is eating well it will recover, trust .
 
FW dips do nothing for parasites. You should have had the new tank ten weeks without any fish then have all things added properly qt'd. You don't have room for a ten gallon qt? Closet? Kitchen counter? Nite stand? Only way to rid the tank of ich now is remove the fish and treat via copper and fallow the display twelve weeks.

+1 If you don't rid this tank of parasites, don't buy any new fish. A QT isn't a luxury item, its as vital as any piece of equipment you own.
 
Ive been in this hobby for about 5 years now, and one thing I will say is that without a QT you mind as well try a different hobby, you are doomed for pain and frustration. I dont even advocate for passive QT any longer. I would either do tank transfer or treat prophylactically for ich, or I wouldnt do it at all! Ive Qtd fish for up to 9 wks, with no signs of ich whatsoever, then add them as the 1st fish in a newly cycled tank, and 2 months later..BAm! Ich. So now Its active QT or nothing! If a fish cant tank copper treatment, I dont buy it!
 
Just keep feeding it good food, and the clown will eventually kick the ick. As long as the fish is eating well it will recover, trust .

Not correct. Ich may not be visible for a while, but its there. This has been shown countless times on our forum. Sometimes, some fish can get some temporary immunity, but it doesn't last. Unfortunately, neither do hobbyists who don't quarantine. I can count the number of ling-term successful hobbyists (that I'm aware of) who don't use a QT on one hand. I know of no recognized authority on our hobby who doesn't say the same thing (one distinguished exception).

The turnover rate in our hobby is astronomical; I'd bet the farm that not using a QT is the #1 reason. Listening to folks who think it just goes away may be reason #2. On the plus side: hobbyists who do not use a QT do provide a lot of cheap fish equipment on Craigslist.
 
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Ive been in this hobby for about 5 years now, and one thing I will say is that without a QT you mind as well try a different hobby, you are doomed for pain and frustration. I dont even advocate for passive QT any longer. I would either do tank transfer or treat prophylactically for ich, or I wouldnt do it at all! Ive Qtd fish for up to 9 wks, with no signs of ich whatsoever, then add them as the 1st fish in a newly cycled tank, and 2 months later..BAm! Ich. So now Its active QT or nothing! If a fish cant tank copper treatment, I dont buy it!

Great post! After you've learned a few little tweaks about Cupramine, the list of fish that don't handle it well is a very small one.
 
You basically have nothing in your tank, take the snails out and treat with copper and get a test kit.

I don't even bother QTing without using some form of ich medication. Every store around me shows signs of ich and all but one have a shared system...

Personally, I wouldn't even bother with leaving the tank barren for 10+ weeks. There are countless threads where people have waited months with a fishless tank only to have ich come back as soon as they put a fish back in. If I waited months with an empty tank and ich just came right back?.. I'd drop kick my tank and burn it down.
 
if the tanks bran new take the rock sand out vinegar it let it all dry out put rock sand back in and let your tank re-cycle. The cycle will be faster than waiting for the ich and you can copper treat the fish in the mean time to kill the ich.
 
Marine Ich - Myths and Facts

Marine Ich - Myths and Facts

This so far has to be the best piece I have seen on this credit goes toleebca@reefland.com in 2006

Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans)

One of the marine aquarist's devils. So many articles have been written about it. Many are long or are in multiple parts. A lot is known about this marine fish disease because of the many $$$ put into research by the fish farming and aquaculture industries. First discovered (or the better word is 'noticed') in the 1800's and later more understood in the 1900's, we've learned about all there is to know about this parasite by the 2000's.

I don't want to write a long post on Marine Ich (MI) but the reader, in as brief of space as possible, should know some truths. The aquarist 'sees something' and then 'guesses' as to what it means and thus starts another round of rumors. It's almost a type of voodoo. It's easier to listen to a rumor of a short absolute statement then it is to read and understand the results of decades of studies and experiments. It is easier to try and take shortcuts with this disease by believing the parasite to be able or capable to do things or die from things it just can't, then it is to do the work to kill it, control it, or prevent it by the means that are known to work.

It's time to separate out the rumors from the facts and the subjective observations (which start rumors) from actual scientific studies. In bullet form, here's what is known:


Life and Visuals:

1, The parasite has several "˜stages' in its life cycle. Cyst in aquarium (usually on substrate or rock) ruptures into free-swimming parasites that burrow into fish, grow into a visible white nodule that is "˜pregnant' with more parasites, that usually falls off the fish to form a cyst that starts the cycle over again.

2. Only time a human can see this parasite with the naked eye is when it is "˜pregnant' on the fish and has formed a white nodule. (The white spot about the size of a grain of table salt or sugar).

3. Parasites that have just burrowed into the fish are not visible until 2.

4. Cycle can be completed in less than 7 days, but usually within 24 days and can go as long as 72 days. Literature usually quotes "˜average' number of days. 72 days is rare; 60 days usually encompasses more than 99.9% of the observations and research. THIS is the reason why 8-weeks fallow time is given -- to include those parasites on or at the end of the cycle range. Remember: The reported and documented cycle time are averages of a range. When fighting this parasite times for treatment are given for the high end of the range not the average time. My philosophy is why risk only being 95% sure? Fallow times are given for over 99.9% success at killing this parasite, for instance. See 10. under Treatments.

5. This is not the same as the freshwater disease, Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis) but it was named after it?!

6. MI is not very sensitive to temperature changes. That is, increasing the temperature does not significantly decrease the life cycle time. This is not true with Freshwater Ich (which is where this rumor of raising the temperature on a marine aquarium with MI comes from).

7. MI can live and reproduce in temperatures as low as 50F and as high as 90F. Thus temperatures that would kill MI would first kill or severely stress most tropical marine fishes.

8. Spots appear then disappear as MI goes through its cycle. Remember 2. This 'disappearing act' is what leads uninformed aquarists to believe the fish are cured. This is the dumbest thing aquarists can possibly think about this parasite!

9. Parasite likes infecting the fish's gills. The tissue there has more water passing by so there is an increase in chance the free-swimming parasite will get to the gill. This is one reason why fast breathing (over 80 swallows in one minute) is one of the symptoms of possible infection.

10. The parasite burrows into the fish, below the mucous layer and into the skin. (This is why cleaner fish/shrimp can't get to it in order to remove them from the fish). The second dumbest thing an aquarist can think: I'll get some cleaner fish or cleaner shrimp to remove/eat the parasite. THESE MARINE LIFE DO NOT EAT THE PARASITE NOR WILL FISH OR SHRIMP REMOVE THE PARASITE FROM THE INFECTED FISHES.

11. Parasite is transmitted in water (free-swimming and cyst stages), or by falling off of an infected fish (even one that seems healthy because of 9.). This means that water OR fish from another aquarium can carry the disease to another aquarium.

12. The parasite can infect bony fishes, including eels, sharks, and rays, though many species of fish, like Mandarins, have a good resistance to MI, they can still be infected and can harbor or carry the parasite. Invertebrates, snails, crabs, corals, plants, etc. are not affected/infected by MI, but their water can carry them.

13. There is no such thing as a dormant stage for MI. The parasite can't wait around for another host. It MUST go through its cycle. Dr. Burgess recorded that in the cyst stage, he found the longest existing cyst to last for 60 days before releasing the free-swimming parasites. This is rare but possible.

14. INTERESTING FIND: If no new MI is introduce into an infected aquarium, the MI already there continues to cycle through multiple generations until about 10 to 11 months when the MI has "˜worn itself out' and becomes less infective. A tank can be free of an MI infestation if it is never exposed to new MI parasites for over 11 months.


Treatments:

1. Hyposalinity - Using a refractometer, hold salinity at 11ppt to 12ppt until 4 weeks after the last spot was seen. Raise salinity slowly and observe fish for 4 more weeks. Hard to control pH and water quality during treatment. This is the least stressful treatment for the fish.

2. Copper treatment - Follow medication recommendations. Can be effective in 2 to 4 weeks of treatment. After treatment, remove all copper and observe fish for 4 more weeks. See: Copper - Treatment, Use, Problems. Copper is a poison to the fish and creates some stress. The fish may stop eating.

3.. Transfer method - Fish is moved from tank to tank to separate the fish from the cysts that fall off and the free-swimming stages of the parasite. Two hospital tanks are needed to perform this treatment. The fish is stressed by having to keep moving it between these hospital tanks.

4. Only the above 3 known cures work almost 100% of the time. Other chemicals will kill the MI parasite, but only in special conditions (not good for the fish) or in lab experiments (not using marine fish). Some chemicals will only kill some of the organisms, letting the others escape death to go on to multiply and infect.

5. Not any of the treatments can be done in a display tank with true live rock (see: What is Live Rock, Anyway? and substrates with worms, etc.). Must be done in a hospital tank or quarantine tank. The hyposalinity and the copper treatment would kill invertebrates, live rock, and other non-fish marine life. Substrates and carbonates interfere with a copper treatment.

6. No known "˜reef-safe' remedies work consistently. Many aquarists think a particular remedy works when in fact the fish acquire an immunity or defense against the parasite. It's easy for any manufacturer to have an independent study done on the effectiveness of the "˜reef-safe' remedy but they don't because. . .

7. Cleaner shrimp and cleaner wrasses are not known to pick these parasites off of fish. (See 10. above).

8. Freshwater dips can kill some of the parasites on/in the fish, but not all of them because many of the parasites are protected by the fish's skin and mucous layer. (See 10. above).

9. No dip can get rid of these parasites because primarily of 10. above.

10. Let aquarium go fishless (without any foreign saltwater additions (e.g., water from LFS system, water from another tank or system -- use only distilled or RO/DI for evaporation and freshly made, uncontaminated salt water for water changes), contamination from infected tanks, live rock additions, etc.) for at least 8 weeks and the tank will be free of MI. This 'fallow period' has over a 99.9% chance of success.

11. NEVER combine a copper treatment with a hyposalinity treatment. In hyposaline solutions, copper can be lethal to marine fishes.


Defense and Immunity:

1. The fish's mucous coating can provide some protection from the parasite. This is where immunity develops.

2. When water temperature drops, mucous coating is often reduced or lost in marine fishes, that is why sometimes MI becomes visible on the body of the fish after a sudden drop in temperature. This meant, however, that the disease was present and living in the aquarium, infecting fish without the aquarist having been aware of it.

3. No fish, no matter how good its defense is, can stop being infected. A healthy fish will and can be equally infected as a sick or stressed fish. What happens is the aquarists sees one or more fish with the disease and assumes because none are seen on the other fish in the aquarium that they are 'disease free.' NOT. Aquarists can't always see the parasites. See above top, 2., 3., and 9. All fish in an infected tank require treatment.

4. A weak, stressed, or sick fish will die sooner than a healthy fish, but is no more likely to get infected than the healthy fish.

5. A fish that survives an attack may develop proteins in the mucous coating that will help fend off the parasite (this is a type of immune response). An immune fish will not get infected. Unfortunately. . .(see 6. below). . .

6. An immune fish doesn't remain immune. Separated from the disease for months, the once immune fish can become MI infected.

7. Immunization seems to work, but not affordable or likely available to the hobby for many more decades. The immunization materials are hard to make, expensive, and slow to produce.


Subjective and Non-Subjective Observations, Claims, and Common Myths

1. Tangs seem more susceptible. True. Their mucous coatings are reduced in thickness and composition. They swim up to 25 miles a day in the ocean in search for food so maybe Mother Nature provided them with this as a means of 'escape.'

2. It goes away on its own. Untrue. Only visible at one stage IF it is on the body or fin of the fish. It's the life cycle. If it was once seen, then it hasn't gone away -- it's just not visible to the aquarist.

3. It goes away with a "˜reef-safe' remedy. Untrue. This is one of the biggest and most 'dangerous' of the misrepresentations in the hobby. The aquarist thinks everything is okay when it isn't. What usually has happened is that the parasite has killed the fish it will kill and the rest have developed a resistance or immunity. The parasite is still in the aquarium, possibly infecting the gills of the fish where it can't be seen.

4. It was gone then when a new fish is added, it is there again. Not true. See 3. It wasn't gone or the new fish brought in the disease with it. A new addition to an aquarium can be the stress which causes the other fish to reduce their defense or immunity, thus allow the parasite to 'bloom' to the point where the infection is now visible to the aquarist.

5. The fish lived the last outbreak then died during the second or subsequent outbreak. Can be true. The fish had a resistance or immunity that it lost.

6. It was accurately diagnosed as MI spots, then never showed up again. It wasn't MI or the fish quickly developed an immediate immunity or resistance, or the fish is still infected in the gills.

7. MI can "˜hang around' almost unnoticed with just a body spot now and then because it often resides just in the gills. True. So "˜it is gone' after "˜it was here' is very unlikely.

8. Aquariums always have MI. Untrue. MI can be kept out of an aquarium. Just quarantine all fish and don't let non-quarantined livestock get into the aquarium. After keeping thousands of marine fishes, my home aquariums have been free of MI since 1970.

9. Fish always have MI. Untrue. In the wild they often show up to 30% infected (or more) but the wild fish survive minor infections. In the tank the parasite can 'bloom.' In the tank the fish can't get away. The combination of bloom and no escape will overcome the fish. In capture and transportation the fish can share the disease and thus many wild caught marine aquarium fishes do have this parasite, but not all.

10. Like 9. a fish can't be made to be totally rid of MI. Untrue. All marine fish can be cured and rid of any MI infection.

11. Just feed the fish well and/or feed it garlic and it will be okay. Untrue. I compare this approach to this one: "Granny has pneumonia. Let's keep her home rather than take her to the hospital. We'll feed her well with chicken soup and vitamins -- and lots of garlic." Nutrition, foods, garlic, vitamins don't cure an infected fish. An infected fish is sick and is being tortured by the itching and discomfort. Don't let this happen to the fish. Cure it!!

12. A new cure has been discovered. Unlikely. If the aquarist thinks they have found a new cure, then have it researched and independently tested. It's easy and cheap. If it is as good as the above 3 then the professional veterinarians, private and public aquariums, fish farms, and I will use it. The aquarist needs to keep the perspective of how devastating this parasite is not to just the hobby but to the whole fish farming industry. Any new way of 100% treatment will make headlines!

13. If the MI can't always be detected, then why bother with a quarantine procedure? In the confines of a small quarantine and being there for no less than 6 weeks, the MI parasite will make itself known because the fish is weakened and the fish can't get away from being re-infected by multiplying MI parasites. In other words, the quarantine procedure instigates a 'bloom' of the parasite which will make it visible to the aquarist.

14. All white nodules fall off the fish and move on to the cyst stage. Untrue. It has been discovered that, on very rare occasions (why we don't know) the white nodule will encyst and rupture while still on the fish.

15. UV and/or Ozone kills MI. Ozone doesn't kill all parasites that pass through the unit, nor does the water treated with ozone kill the parasites. UV only kills the parasites that pass through the unit. Not all MI parasites will pass through the unit, so the UV will not rid an aquarium of MI. A UV can help prevent a 'bloom' of the parasites however, and thus help in its control. UV is not a cure nor a preventative measure for MI.

16. Spots are MI. Untrue. Probably one of the most problematic causes for rumors and myth-information in the hobby is assuming the spot is Marine Ich when it may be one of another few dozen other parasites or conditions (e.g., pimple-like reaction to infection) that look like Marine Ich. The mis-diagnosis is often the cause for claims of what cured MI, when the fish didn't have MI to start with.

PLEASE DON'T SPREAD RUMORS!
 
^ ^ ^ Great info.. Thanks. I thought I knew it all but today I learned that Marine Ich and Freshwater Ich are 2 completely different types of ich.
 
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