New tank been disaster, need advice :(

[sponger0]

I couldnt find where he said he was adding chemicals to the water. Maybe I missed it? Im going to have to disagree with your first sentence. (Not trying to stir the pot :wavehand: ) absolute 0 nitrates are impossible to obtain unless you are diligently persuing a ULNS with apropriate carbon dosing and aggressive skimming, which should only be attempted by the most skilled reefers IMHO. Low readings of nitrates is fine and can actually be beneficial in the health and beauty of corals. Phosphates are very hard to remove and are probably the #1 cause of neusence algae. Runing phosphate media or macro algae is the best way to recover from high phosphates.

You say you are adding distilled water, thats better than tap water but not even close to the quality of reverse osmosis, de-ionized filtration (RO/DI) Your goal is to achieve a 0 with a TDS meter (TDS = Total Desolved Solids) I would get a TDS meter http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/catalog/product/view/id/401/'Every serious reefer needs one of thes IMO. I would be curious to know the TDS of the distilled water youre using.

Looks like it was edited out somewhere. But he was mentioning adding a few chemicals into the tank.

And honestly, Ive never had nitrates. Ever.

Agree with using distilled. And there is also said that some water distilling plants use copper pipes during the process. Which is why I wouldnt use distilled water

 

[nepenthes99]

Sponger, I do not add any chemicals to my tank. And by decreasing nutrients with the skimmer i was referring to taking out the waste which will become the nutrients. The problem with the tank is that nutrients build up from waste and my skimmer is not efficient enough to remove them all, leading to algae growth. I also grow caulerpa macroalgae in the sandbed which I have added to absorb the nutrients that cannot be skimmed.

 

[sponger0]

Dammit...I swore someone said something about chemicals. WTH???

That caleurpa can overtake your tank so watch if carefully.

How are you doing water changes and how often? Any fish still in the tank?

 

[makokak]

that is why read read read read read more about this hobby and watch watch more educational video before starting reef tank.

Remember guys number one tools here is PATIENCE!

 

[Mstefa1]

I praise that anything 40g and under use persistent water changes to replenish lost minerals and remove excess nutrients. And I mean weekly water changes. The exception would be dosing 2 part - something you can easily test for. With much larger tanks it's not as cost effective to simply perform a water change.

 

[nepenthes99]

I have a diadema urchin that keeps the caulerpa under control so i am not worried. I do weekly water changes and my fish load is pretty low, two small damsels and a banggai cardinal. i also dose Kent Nano reef which is a two part formula.

 

[sponger0]

Are you tested you alk/calc/and mag? Just curious

Sooner or later that urchin is going to get too big for that tank. So youll have to replace him with a smaller one at some point. So keep that in mind.

 

[JaYbIrD1969]

I also grow caulerpa macroalgae in the sandbed which I have added to absorb the nutrients that cannot be skimmed.

Oh boy! You really dont want this. Caulerpa is extremely invasive. If and when it goes sexual and begins its takeover, you will be posting a brand new "PLEASE HELP" thread. Some guys will keep caulerpa in their sump, but if it decides to go sexual it can be nearly impossible to keep it from finding your display tank. I wouldnt let one cell of that stuff in the door of my house let alone in my sump...and youve got it in your display :eek2:

Chaetomorpha is the way to go. Its ugly and not very appealing in your display. Its also stringy and get in everything, but it wont take root in your rock work. Using macro algae as nutrient export is really for sumps, where you can keep it out of sight and light it on a reverse schedule from your display lighting.

You will need a sump for that new skimmer. Make a 3 stage sump with a refugium containing chaeto and some live rock rubble. This will really set things moving in the right direction.

....but get rid of that caulerpa man!

 

[trinity1012]

i had mj 1200's in my 150g...what i did to stop them from falling was i took the suction cups off,then i drilled 3 holes in my euro brace were the cups use to be,i attached SS screws in brace to mount the mj upside down,ill post a pic of it.maybe you can mount the mj in a diffrent way,i know you have no euro brace but brainstorm a way to mount it without suction cups.

 

[nepenthes99]

Thanks for the advice,
My calcium is pretty high according to the test and so is my alk. And as much as I would like a sump/fuge I do not have the space, time or money to install one. I have seen many successful sumpless 40 breeder builds with macro behind the rockwork and like the look of the caulerpa in the display. My urchin completely decimates entire areas of it and if he was not regularly fed I am sure he would eat it all.

 

[nepenthes99]

Thanks for the advice,
My calcium is pretty high according to the test and so is my alk. And as much as I would like a sump/fuge I do not have the space, time or money to install one. I have seen many successful sumpless 40 breeder builds with macro behind the rockwork and like the look of the caulerpa in the display. My urchin completely decimates entire areas of it and if he was not regularly fed I am sure he would eat it all.

 

[nepenthes99]

Sorry, double post.

 

[kenc87]

Well from what i've been reading here it seems like first off you need to just do a bunch of water changes and get those parameters in line. Secondly it would be very helpful to all of us trying to help you if we knew what your exact nitrate and phosphate levels are. On top of this while I know that good equipment is expensive, sometimes you really do get what you pay for. Just take your time and get the water params in line and then go slow. Oh and get the caulerpa out of your display, thats a nightmare waiting to happen