New tank? Expect this.

[Sk8r]

1. hair algae---run gfo IN A REACTOR. Removes the phosphate that fuels hair algae. Change media monthly.
2. bubble algae---mostly ignore it. it's a phase. The best thing is to check your chemistry---hit the params in my sig line.
3. cyanobacteria---generally won't hurt corals, but can get thick and obnoxious. Red blush on sand to thick coat of red goo. Fix: turn out lights 3 days, (won't hurt corals or fish) go on room lights only and draw drapes. Do NOT black out glass. Run skimmer well-tuned and/or do a 30% water change. On 4th day run blues or actinics only. 5th day back to normal. Do this once monthly until plague ends.
4. corals won't open. First thing to check is alkalinity. If it's off, ain't nothin' happy.
5. worms with blunt heads---no tentacles (bristleworms), snails with saddle for shell and long antennae (stomatella), little white bugs on glass (copepods) All good. Crabs and classic starfish, not good: keep them in the sump.
6. rooted algae growing in tank---nab that rock, toothbrush the area, dip the area in hydrogen peroxide, rinse it well in discard water, then return to tank with bad side down. Rooted algae in the dt is a disaster in the making.
7. tiny white starfish missing an arm or two (asterinas) generally won't hurt anything. Sure, they may eat coralline. There'll be a time you wish they would. It grows back fast. If you have zoas, however, you might want to pick off these stars and put them in your sump. Many things can live nicely in the sump.
8. coralline: only good things you can say about it is ---it's not brown (it's pink) and where it is, other algae won't grow. If you want it, run your magnesium at about 1350 and have at least one bit of it on something in your tank.

 

[WatDatThing]

I'm experiencing my first algae bloom after adding 2 clowns, 1 6 lines and a royal gramma. I haven't done any wc yet. Today is the third day and it isn't any worse than yesterday. So I think the nitrate level has gone down.

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[Fish finder]

Thanks I'll be going through this soon, starting my build soon

 

[Sk8r]

Mmmmmm...'I think'.
Get some specific tests. It's very useful to have NUMERIC values for as much as possible. Nitrate tests are still color based, and a pain. The brand I use for everything is Salifert, which renders numbers for alkalinity, calcium, magnesium---the three you need to keep in balance, along with salinity (have a refractometer for that: it will rapidly pay for itself in live fishes, etc).
One test that's of limited use early on is phosphate---if you have green algae, you have a phosphate problem (it won't show on the test because the algae is sucking it out of the rock and water) and since nothing likes it BUT green plants, you need to get rid of it. GFO. THings that eat it just poo it all back into the water.
But start a little logbook and test weekly for nitrate, salinity, alkalinity; and if you want to have stony corals, calcium and magnesium. You balance these by adding supplements. [I use Kent brand.] There is also Two-part, et al. I just do them independently, which is a choice. Both ways work.
Just remember: the best solution to a problem is VERY rarely 'getting something to eat it'...because of poo. And because many problems reproduce from fragments. Find out what the best fix is.
One of the worst things you can do is starting to 'cure' your problems by dumping stuff in that 'looked good at the fish store'. And one of the even worse things you can do to yourself (as a novice) is deciding in advance you know what your problem is or fix is (as a novice) and then proceeding to ask advice on how to implement that...you're sure to get the advice, but if you're wrong about what the problem IS, you're now in a more complicated mess.

First thing to do is get a photo of the situation (photobucket free account interfaces nicely with the little mountain/sun icon you see on your Quick Reply form when posting)---describe the situation and the tests results you've got---and see if experienced diagnosis of the problem agrees with your diagnosis.

Once you've established WHAT you're dealing with---now you can discuss fixes. Everything's easier to fix if several random 'fixes' haven't been applied first. Works in mechanics, same rule in fish tanks.