New Tank Pics
- Thread starter drfdisk
- Start date
Yea I'm will you pitbull, I dont want to drill my tank for a closed loop. Being able to see the back of the tank, it would defeat the purpose of (thanks to Mikeyjer's advise) buying a RR tank without all the stuff hanging off the back. The RR has made life MUCH easier.
ACK!! Killing tanks!? Yea I will most definately have to look in to that. Thanks for the heads up.
ACK!! Killing tanks!? Yea I will most definately have to look in to that. Thanks for the heads up.
I can vouch for a RIO pump crashing a tank. I had a RIO in my QT and I came home from work one day, soon after the swap meet, to find everything in the QT all pulled up. There was black stuff all over everything! After further investigation I found that it looked like the RIO had tried to catch on fire. I did a 50% water change. Everything that I had bought at the swap, plus more was still in the QT. The only things that I lost were some Xenia and a purple cap frag. After that I cut the plugs off of the remaining RIO pumps that I had. It’s just not worth it.
Daniel
Daniel
KAiNE
Premium Member
Undergravel..... I would call it "behind/under rockwork flow"
I made the mistake of not having big enough holes (jets) in my pipework. Now I am dealing with ALLOT of head pressure. I have changed pumps many times but now use a Iwaki 40rlt. I ran 1" pvc across the entire bottom of the tank and drilled 5/16 holes about every 4". I have seen others T off and run pipe up inside the rockwork but mine is only on the back/bottom blowing up @ a 45.
In hindsight i should have gone with 3/8-7/16 holes.
Another thing to consider is the siphon break for this. The first exit on mine is at the bottom of the tank, if power fails it would drain the entire tank without a siphon break. i have a Y type check valve but later drilled a hole for backup.
I made the mistake of not having big enough holes (jets) in my pipework. Now I am dealing with ALLOT of head pressure. I have changed pumps many times but now use a Iwaki 40rlt. I ran 1" pvc across the entire bottom of the tank and drilled 5/16 holes about every 4". I have seen others T off and run pipe up inside the rockwork but mine is only on the back/bottom blowing up @ a 45.
In hindsight i should have gone with 3/8-7/16 holes.
Another thing to consider is the siphon break for this. The first exit on mine is at the bottom of the tank, if power fails it would drain the entire tank without a siphon break. i have a Y type check valve but later drilled a hole for backup.
crumbletop
New member
Yee hawww. That is reefing on the _edge_! Yeah, siphon breaks are a good thing. Doing it as a closed loop would obviate the need for one, however. It is only if your are draining the water through the overflow to the sump that you need to worry about the siphon.
Yes, I was planning on putting two pumps around a 600-700gph one on either side of the tank for the UGJ. I didnt think the suction would be that big of an issue as there are some single powerheads rated more than both pumps put together. It just finding something small enough, and low wattage with a 3/4" outlet.
Im hoping whatever pumps I decide on can be hidden behind a rock or two and not all that noticable.
Im hoping whatever pumps I decide on can be hidden behind a rock or two and not all that noticable.
Pickupman66
New member
the quietone pumps put off alot of heat. I bought a 4000 and talk aobut heat. I ran it externally for a loop and it melted the carpet it was sitting on. talk aobut scarry. I replaced it with a genx pcx40. the qo was also very chattery while running. the only way I could get it to quiet down was to add pressure to it via ball valve but this reduced my flow significantly. I have the mag9.5 as my return in the sump and it works great for my 75. then add that loop pump and all is well. the fewer pumps in the water the less chance for electric leakage.
Well I finally got the lower plumbing done and it looks ok I think. Thanks to sugestions here I decided to use a PCX40 pump for the return. I had to modify the sump with two bulkheads so the pickup runs through the fuge. Its filling with FW right now to test for leaks and I'm sad to say...I'm excited about it. lol
Next up I need to plumb the inside of the tank for the undergravel jets.
You can kinda see where the plumbing runs through the bottom of the fuge for the return.
Next up I need to plumb the inside of the tank for the undergravel jets.
You can kinda see where the plumbing runs through the bottom of the fuge for the return.
crumbletop
New member
Lookin' good.
I think you may need a larger diameter bulkhead and pipe to the input of the pump -- or at least maybe straight PVC instead of the barbs. You could put a union inline to make it easy to disconnect the pump. The issue with the current setup is I think you'll see restricted flow to the pump, possibly causing cavitation and lots of microbubbles. If the whole pipe to the middle section of the sump is your input to the pump, then I think you'll definitely need a wider diameter. Maybe 1.5" pipe for a run that long, and reduce right at the pump. I'll let others with experience with that pump chime in though...
I think you may need a larger diameter bulkhead and pipe to the input of the pump -- or at least maybe straight PVC instead of the barbs. You could put a union inline to make it easy to disconnect the pump. The issue with the current setup is I think you'll see restricted flow to the pump, possibly causing cavitation and lots of microbubbles. If the whole pipe to the middle section of the sump is your input to the pump, then I think you'll definitely need a wider diameter. Maybe 1.5" pipe for a run that long, and reduce right at the pump. I'll let others with experience with that pump chime in though...
TitansFan
Active member
What skimmer are you going to be going with? Also that 90 degree barb fitting on the pumps output is going to kill some head. Why didn't you do atleast a straight barb fitting there? What is holding the flex tubing on the bulkheads? Do you think you will get vibration from the PVC bolted down to the wood backing? Is the bottom of the stand water sealed for the spills that will happen? Sorry for the questions. I am not trying to be rude .. just curious.
Very nice job on the pumps intake plumbing. Saves you from having the bulkhead on the front of the sump taking up room. So when is the first wet run???
One suggestion I have. It looks like the pumps output is split with one going to the tank and one going back to the sump to help regulate flow. I would put another T where the return pump goes back to the sump. On the end of the T put a valve and barb fitting. This way with a few turns of valves you could drain the sump with the pump to make for quick water changes.
Very nice job on the pumps intake plumbing. Saves you from having the bulkhead on the front of the sump taking up room. So when is the first wet run???
One suggestion I have. It looks like the pumps output is split with one going to the tank and one going back to the sump to help regulate flow. I would put another T where the return pump goes back to the sump. On the end of the T put a valve and barb fitting. This way with a few turns of valves you could drain the sump with the pump to make for quick water changes.
TitansFan
Active member
Jack brings up a good point with the pump's intake. Because of your reducing though on the output I don't think cavitation will be a problem. I do think you won't be getting the pumps full possible performance. When plumping pumps I like to actually enlarge the plumbing from the output and intakes. This gives more flow. If I want more forceful flow when it reaches the tank I will reduce it there. Do your wet run though see how it works out. I wish I was that clean with my PVC primer and glue.
Well its running with FW in it right now and I only had a couple of small leaks and had to tighten a few fittings.
As far as the pump intake I thought about enlarging it but since the pump has only a 3/4 intake and it was straight I thought it wouldnt be an issue. It's only about a 12-13" run. Right now I dont see/hear any cavitation and seem to have more than enough flow. I had to make the output of the pump a 90 because with the straight barb the hose kinked real bad. I used hose for the intake and output of the pump to try and isolate any vibration and if I didnt like the pump I could change it easily. Not to mention space under there is tight because it was all originally built to have a submerged pump.
I am getting bubbles but they are coming from the pipes for the overflows. They seem to "boil" and stir up quite a few bubbles that make their way to the return intake. I dont know if I need to make them shorter or what but I didnt glue the last piece of down pipe so I can make changes to them.
The bottom of the stand isnt sealed though I wish it were, sorry first tank. I have a CSS 220 for the skimmer and still need to build a place for it in the sump. I'll probably upgrade it later but a lot of people seem to like them for the money from I read. No vibration from the wood backing, the hose seemed to isolate it. The pump itself is a little bit louder than I like though. Maybe an upgrade to a Titanium one day, I just want to put something in the stupid thing that moves.
Im not sure what you mean there. There is a bulkhead in the inner wall with a MPT/slip screwed in on the fuge side with 3/4" PVC pipe running to the other side of the fuge. Then another MPT/slip screwed in to the outer bulkhead with a 3/4" barb on the outside of the tank. I can try to take a pic if you like.
This was my first venture into PVC plumbing and the first couple of fittings were half purple and so was my hand. lol
As far as the pump intake I thought about enlarging it but since the pump has only a 3/4 intake and it was straight I thought it wouldnt be an issue. It's only about a 12-13" run. Right now I dont see/hear any cavitation and seem to have more than enough flow. I had to make the output of the pump a 90 because with the straight barb the hose kinked real bad. I used hose for the intake and output of the pump to try and isolate any vibration and if I didnt like the pump I could change it easily. Not to mention space under there is tight because it was all originally built to have a submerged pump.
I am getting bubbles but they are coming from the pipes for the overflows. They seem to "boil" and stir up quite a few bubbles that make their way to the return intake. I dont know if I need to make them shorter or what but I didnt glue the last piece of down pipe so I can make changes to them.
The bottom of the stand isnt sealed though I wish it were, sorry first tank.
I have a CSS 220 for the skimmer and still need to build a place for it in the sump. I'll probably upgrade it later but a lot of people seem to like them for the money from I read. No vibration from the wood backing, the hose seemed to isolate it. The pump itself is a little bit louder than I like though. Maybe an upgrade to a Titanium one day, I just want to put something in the stupid thing that moves. Im not sure what you mean there. There is a bulkhead in the inner wall with a MPT/slip screwed in on the fuge side with 3/4" PVC pipe running to the other side of the fuge. Then another MPT/slip screwed in to the outer bulkhead with a 3/4" barb on the outside of the tank. I can try to take a pic if you like.
This was my first venture into PVC plumbing and the first couple of fittings were half purple and so was my hand. lol
cee
New member
I'd put a ball valve union between the pump supply and the bulkhead so you can remove the pump w/o draining the sump. Also, those metal supports are going to rust quickly after exposure to salt spray as will all the screws on the plywood (unless stainless). You might consider sealing all the wood, also. HTH.
I would love to add a ball valve but I just dont have the room for it with out putting a 90 on the sump and moving the pump. I think that would restict the intake too much. The pickup in the middle part of the sump has a 90 on it that can be turned to face up, and I could put a section of PVC to raise it above the waterline so I could remove the pump without draining. I might end up pulling the metal supports and painting them before its finished and I probably will get SS hardware...Still a long way to go.
Thanks c_stowers, the straps are from Lowes. They were made for a different, smaller dia type of pipe so they are a little snug but do the job. If you look where the ball valves are they are hurtin to fit. lol
I might end up pulling the metal supports and painting them before its finished and I probably will get SS hardware...Still a long way to go. Thanks c_stowers, the straps are from Lowes. They were made for a different, smaller dia type of pipe so they are a little snug but do the job. If you look where the ball valves are they are hurtin to fit. lol
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