New Tank (Warning Long Post)

[deeporl]

Ok so I'm not exactly new to the hobby. Just re-entering it after an absence. Basically I went to the Air Force and gave my custom 100 gallon tank to my parents when I left. I had it set-up as a reef tank and well that isn't the point so skip to the present.

I came home just got a good job and moved into my house and my mom calls besheveled because the tank is crashing. The return pump burnt out and they can't really afford to replace it so I call some local friends and get the live stock to good homes. My parents had been letting it go a bit lately anyways so they offer to return it to me. So I take it. Only issue is everything has seemed to change since I left so here are some questions I have after my visit to the local fish store in Lansing, MI.

First of all I went to get things to fix the scratched areas of the acrylic and to remove the coraline that was building up on the tank. I bought a scratch repair kit that I've read quite a bit about around the internet. It says something about being used on planes for a long time and it is basically a sand paper set that gets finer and finer and then a liquid finisher. It is made for acrylic. So I picked that up. The next thing I got was a red scraper blade ment for acrylic. I assume these both were good decisions. Ok so first question came up when I asked him if there is some sort of secret to getting coraline off acrylic and he said vinegar will disolve the calicum in it and it should be easier to remove. Is this true and is this safe? BTW right now the tank is empty and dry.

Second question is since its been awhile I started looking into a few things parts wise. The powerheads I have have seen better days. So I'm looking at replacing those especially since they aren't that exspensive. But when I asked where the Maxi-Jets are he showed me but told me of this new type of pump.Here is a link to an example of it. He said it is more flow but less pointed than the Maxi-Jets I'm use to. Well when he started talking about it I did remeber that the Maxi's kind of created a laser beam of water flow and there was a bunch of bouncing to be done to get a decent flow every where. Also the magnetic mounting system would be nice. So the question is are these good? If not what should I go with?

Third question is about lights. I currently am running 4 48" 110W VHO's on a IceCap 660 ballast. I noticed that most of this stores fish were under these super thin Fluorescent tubes called T-5s. The fish store guy when asked was more than happy to tell me about them. He even said I could run 4 of them on my 660 but that I would burn them out every 6 months. So what are the benefits and is it worth the change? If so how many bulbs to replace my 4 VHO's and what is the recomended equipment.

Ok and the next question. So apparantly my return pump is shot. I'm thinking I'm basically going to take the wet/dry area in the back of my tank and turn it into a refigium because I read bio-balls and wet dry in general is on its way out. And even when I left refigiums were a big deal. So for what the return pump did I'm thinking I'm going to drain into a sump with my skimmer, chiller, and heating devices and then return back to the tank. There are 2 drains drilled and 2 returns. 1 return is basically a "power head" the other a spray bar. What return pump would you suggest for a 100 gallon?

Finally I'm assuming my Berlin once working will be fine for my skimmer.

Ok so now that I got the hardware out of the way I'm thinking I want to do another reef tank. I've got all the dry base rock that use to be my life rock. I think I'll use that and then seed it with some live rock.

As far as substrate I've always liked sand bottoms is this still ok? How thick? Crushed coral mixed in or no?

For coral I'm really liking the zoa's, mushrooms, and ricorida's I've been seeing. So I think I will go that road with maybe a frogspawn or bubble coral or brain or something similiar to break it up a bit but I think 90% or more will be the above 3 mentioned species. Any suggestions on starting out a tank like that? Any special needs?

For fish I don't know yet. I'd love some suggestions that would really set off my tank. I've had p. clowns, naso tang, coral beauty, mandrin goby, damsels, and a foxface before. Again a suggested group would be great.

Ok and finally cleaner crew? What is suggested? In my day it was a decent set of snails, some peppermint and cleaner shrimp, an emerald crab, maybe some hermits depending on snail replacement rate desired, and I also had a sand sifting starfish and a cucumber. What package would you suggest for a 100 gallon?

Ok that is all and if anyone gets through my post and replies I'll give you a virtual cookie because that is some dedication there.

 

[snulma1]

First of all I went to get things to fix the scratched areas of the acrylic and to remove the coraline that was building up on the tank. I bought a scratch repair kit that I've read quite a bit about around the internet. It says something about being used on planes for a long time and it is basically a sand paper set that gets finer and finer and then a liquid finisher. It is made for acrylic. So I picked that up. The next thing I got was a red scraper blade ment for acrylic. I assume these both were good decisions. Ok so first question came up when I asked him if there is some sort of secret to getting coraline off acrylic and he said vinegar will disolve the calicum in it and it should be easier to remove. Is this true and is this safe? BTW right now the tank is empty and dry.

I know on glass tanks vinegar helps dissolve the calcium by a chemical reaction. On acrylic it should work as well. but double check that as I don't know if it would cause any hazing on the acylic.

Second question is since its been awhile I started looking into a few things parts wise. The powerheads I have have seen better days. So I'm looking at replacing those especially since they aren't that exspensive. But when I asked where the Maxi-Jets are he showed me but told me of this new type of pump.Here is a link to an example of it. He said it is more flow but less pointed than the Maxi-Jets I'm use to. Well when he started talking about it I did remeber that the Maxi's kind of created a laser beam of water flow and there was a bunch of bouncing to be done to get a decent flow every where. Also the magnetic mounting system would be nice. So the question is are these good? If not what should I go with?

Those pumps, the Koralia's, are the new pumps on the block. They do a great job of using a dispersed flow, and use low wattage. So they are in high demand. If you can find them jump on it! I've been watiing for mine for over a month from marinedepot.

Third question is about lights. I currently am running 4 48" 110W VHO's on a IceCap 660 ballast. I noticed that most of this stores fish were under these super thin Fluorescent tubes called T-5s. The fish store guy when asked was more than happy to tell me about them. He even said I could run 4 of them on my 660 but that I would burn them out every 6 months. So what are the benefits and is it worth the change? If so how many bulbs to replace my 4 VHO's and what is the recomended equipment.

T5's are great for low heat output and high light requirements. IF you use individualized reflectors for each bulb. I'm not sure about using them on the 660 ballast, but there are lots of people who are probably doing it. But I think if you already have the VHO's. I'd stick with that for now until you find the need to upgrade later.

As far as substrate I've always liked sand bottoms is this still ok? How thick? Crushed coral mixed in or no?

Stay away from the crushed coral, you will get an abundance of nitrates from the detreius. Stick with sand or Bare bottomed.


As for your livestock, its personal preference. I had a blonde naso in my 210 before I sold it. But it was my favorite! I also would look at some PJ's or some Chromis's and get a kinda schooling effect going.

And as for cleanup crew, The standard assortment of blue leggeds, astrea, nass. and cerith snails, a tiger tail Cucumber (if you do sand), should be a good start!

Good luck!

 

[deeporl]

Ok any suggestions on return pumps? Anyone else want to chime in?

 

[snulma1]

I forgot about the return pump part....sorry

you need to find out what rate the drains going to your sump are. Cuz you don't want to pump water faster then it can drain, you'll end up with a flood. As for brands, If you are going to submerge it, then go with a Mag-drive. If you are gonna run it external, then you gotta get info from someone else, I don't know too much about them

 

[deeporl]

Ok Mag-drive of appropriate flow rate. Now this may be a dumb question but how do you find the rate of flow out?

 

[Henry Bowman]

The flow rate of pumps are usually posted with their information. I would also suggest an eheim pump. THey are very reliable.

If you are talking about running 4ea 4' T5's with the ice cap 660. That will work. The 660 is rated to run 16' of T5's with no problem. You will need different end caps and also individual reflectors to get the most out of those lamps.

 

[deeporl]

Ok thanks. I was wondering about the 660 because the LFS said I'd overdrive the T5's and burn them up quicker than if I ran some other ballast.

Also I didn't mean rate of flow from the pump. I mean how do I know how quick the tank drains into the sump.

 

[Henry Bowman]

THe 660 WILL overdrive the lamps but the shorter life puts replacements in the 12-14 month range as opposed to 18 or so months. It will push 75-80 watts through a 4'-58watt bulb. I have a light fixture that was built to do this by aquactinics. You will need a fan to keep the lights cool(er). Even regularly driven t5's need a fan to keep the bulb at around 90 degrees. If the bulb temp rises above 95 deg. par drops off dramatically.

As for the drain, check the plumbing calculator on the forum home page. Left side. Make sure you have the left column "on". You can turn the letf column on around your login name at the top right of the page. The calculator will ask you your plumbing pipe size but gives pretty accurate info.

HTH

 

[deeporl]

Thanks I'll take a look at those calculators as soon as I can stop answering this darn phone. Work geez. Anyways do you think the switch over to the T5's are worth it? Keep in mind I have to redo the connectors anyways so only thing I would really have to buy that I'm not already is a reflector and T5 bulbs instead of VHO. Let me know what you think. Also keep in mind I want to do mainly zoas, rics, and shrooms. I hear it may be to intense for them??? How many bulbs should I run?

I looked into it and the endcaps are similar in price to what I have to buy anyways so that is a wash. I'm getting about 15 a piece regaurdless if I go VHO or T5's. (The reason I have to replace VHO is because there is a short that is blowing my Ice Cap fuse it started when the blubs were replaced last by my mom. It is instant so I think it must be a cap thats shorting.)

The reflectors apear to run about 22-25 each. So if it is 4 blubs 100 dollars if 2 bulbs 50 dollars.

The bulbs are the same as the reflectors so again 100 dollars if 4 or 50 if 2. But that is what it'll cost to replace my VHO's that need to be swaped every 6months from what I hear anyways. As aposed to 12 month trade out time. And less energy.

So is it worth it and if so how many bulbs for a Zoa, ric, shroom tank.

 

[Henry Bowman]

For shrooms and zoas you can do 2 or 3. Check the Icecap forum about running less than 4 on a 660. I THINK? you are ok, but I'd make sure before doing so.

For that large a tank, I'd go with 3 or 4. I am not sure exactly how deep your tank is but I'm betting that it's 24". If you are putting your shrooms near the bottom of the tank, you should be fine with 3 bulbs. You can go with 4 and shorten the photoperiod if you have any issues. Here's the other side..... If you start keeping LPS or SPS corals, they will LOVE the higher light of the 4 bulb unit. You would need to keep the SPS in the upper part of the tank but you'd be fine. IF you want to keep shrooms in the mid to upper level of the tank, you'll need to run the 3 bulb config. I think 2 is on the low side and only gives you 2 bulbs to play with color. It'd end up being an actinic and a daylight.

In the end, I'd set up 4 ea and see if you can put a switch in the line to a couple of the bulbs where you can leave the ballast on and turn one or two of the lights off independantly.....

Worst case scenario, you set up 4 bulbs and have too much light then remove a bulb....It'd be easier than having to go back and add more bulbs and hardware later?

HTH

 

[deeporl]

Very true. Thanks for the help.