240addiction
New member
My wife and I are looking for some advice on our new tank. We want to keep a reef tank. The purchases we have already made are now being second guessed because there are so many different opinions of how to do things. It seems like everyone has a different opinion and there is very little consensus on how to do anything since all tanks are different!
This is the current setup:
1) 65 gallon DSA reef ready tank (installed in CRT TV nook)
Here is our timeline so far:
12/31/2013: We purchased the rock (still in the box from Real Reef Rock shipping) and sand and then had a few leak problems with the tank, so they sat for two days before getting into the tank.
1/1/2014 - 1/2/2014: Mixed the water - The tank was setup using Aquavitro Salinity salt mix and my own RO/DI water (new air, water, ice Typhoon III system (produces 0-2 TDS using H&M dual TDS meter)). Both batches of water were mixed to 1.0245 using DD H2 Ocean Salinity refractometer.
1/2/2014: Put the egg crate then the rocks then the sand and then the water in the tank. We epoxied most of the rocks together and will probably expoxy a few more just to be on the safe side. The non-live sand was washed, but not the live sand (the label said not to).
1/3/2014: I had to put in a larger Durso stand pipe Tee (1" to 1.25") to allow me to increase flow a bit more.
1/9/2014: I did a 10% water change. I missed that you are normally not supposed to during a cycle.
1/14/2014: I noticed that some Diatom Algae has started to cover all of the sand in the tank and I reduced the lighting schedule on my Hydra to about 4 hours during the day and nothing else. I was previously running it 24x7 (very low at night though).
We have been up and running for about 3 weeks and I have been doing water tests using my Nutrafin Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate test kits and checking PH using the Salifert kit. I have yet to see anything but traces of anything on these tests. Ammonia has always been less than .1 and nothing on both Nitrites and Nitrates. PH is hard to tell, but it's somewhere between 7.8 and 8.2 (it is always a dark brown-gray-dark green color).
The QT tank is 20 gallons. It has a LED Marineland light, HOB 150 biowheel filter (new wheel and filter (carbon was removed)), and 100 watt heater. It also has an air pump stone. The QT tank was setup on 1/14/2013 using 1.023 salt water and is being maintained at 79°F. I noticed ammonia up to 1.2 within 4 days and it has just spiked and appears to be starting to decline. I am also slowly raising the SG every day when I top off with RO/DI water. I did use a shrimp to help with the cycle, but the smell was too much after 24 hours and I threw it out.
Finally to our questions:
1) After reading some opinions on the Real Reef Rock, I am not sure there is enough surface area. We tried to place the rocks so that they have a lot of water flow and a lot of surface area. However, they are not nearly as porous as real rock and that concerns me. I was thinking about ordering some live rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater. Do I need to get more rock? If so, do I need to get another 60lbs, or less? I understand that particular rock will have some un-wanted hitchhikers that could be placed in the QT to get rid of those unwanted hitchhikers. I hope to not find and any mantis shrimp or unwanted crabs but if they are QT I don't see a big deal. The review of the rock seems to be very good.
2) We didn't wash the live sand - is that going to mess anything up in the future? I think it's too late to do anything about it. The sand we got is pretty fine - is that ok?
3) What should be added to the refugium and when? I was thinking about a DSB and then maybe some live rock rubble and Chateo. I don't have a ton of room so I think it will have to be two out of the three. Which two should I pick, and when do they need to be added?
4) Should I expect the tank cycle if it hasn't yet? It has been a few weeks and still there has not been any ammonia. How much longer should I wait?
5) The pH is a little low. Will that go up, or do we need to do anything to help it along? The LFS suggested we buy something for it but then we read online that we couldn't use it on reefs.
6) INVERTS! We are just not sure where to even start. Some people love hermits and emerald crabs, but others say they are terrible. Are hermits and crabs really that destructive? Others say to avoid crabs and just get snails? If so, we have read about the turbo snails, but what other kinds of snails should we get? How many of each, and when to add them? I don't think adding them all at once is a good idea as there isn't that much food in the tank yet.
7) When is a good time to start the skimmer? Should I start breaking it in or wait until I am done with the cycle.
I appreciate your opinion and any advice you can offer. I have read a lot, but it becomes overwhelming when there is no specific formula for anything.
Here are some pictures of the tank and sump.







Thanks,
Paul and Jo
This is the current setup:
1) 65 gallon DSA reef ready tank (installed in CRT TV nook)
- 20 lbs of caribsea arag alive fiji pink live sand and 40 lbs Natures Ocean Samoa #0 pink sand
- 60 lbs of cured Real Reef Rock
- Aqua Illuminations Hydra LED light with wireless director.
- 2 x 850 GPH Hydor Koralia Evolution Aquarium Circulation Pumps
- Order of flow skimmer (low, high, low baffle configuration), refugium (low, high baffle configuration), return pump
- Sicce Syncra 4.0 pump
- Vertex Omega 150 Protien skimmer (just sitting in the sump not actually running yet)
- 19 watt CREE LED light with Home depot clamp on bulb reflector thing (for future use on fuge plants and PH leveling at night)
- 2 x Colbalt Neo-therm heaters set to 78°F (100 Watt and 150 Watt)
Here is our timeline so far:
12/31/2013: We purchased the rock (still in the box from Real Reef Rock shipping) and sand and then had a few leak problems with the tank, so they sat for two days before getting into the tank.
1/1/2014 - 1/2/2014: Mixed the water - The tank was setup using Aquavitro Salinity salt mix and my own RO/DI water (new air, water, ice Typhoon III system (produces 0-2 TDS using H&M dual TDS meter)). Both batches of water were mixed to 1.0245 using DD H2 Ocean Salinity refractometer.
1/2/2014: Put the egg crate then the rocks then the sand and then the water in the tank. We epoxied most of the rocks together and will probably expoxy a few more just to be on the safe side. The non-live sand was washed, but not the live sand (the label said not to).
1/3/2014: I had to put in a larger Durso stand pipe Tee (1" to 1.25") to allow me to increase flow a bit more.
1/9/2014: I did a 10% water change. I missed that you are normally not supposed to during a cycle.
1/14/2014: I noticed that some Diatom Algae has started to cover all of the sand in the tank and I reduced the lighting schedule on my Hydra to about 4 hours during the day and nothing else. I was previously running it 24x7 (very low at night though).
We have been up and running for about 3 weeks and I have been doing water tests using my Nutrafin Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate test kits and checking PH using the Salifert kit. I have yet to see anything but traces of anything on these tests. Ammonia has always been less than .1 and nothing on both Nitrites and Nitrates. PH is hard to tell, but it's somewhere between 7.8 and 8.2 (it is always a dark brown-gray-dark green color).
The QT tank is 20 gallons. It has a LED Marineland light, HOB 150 biowheel filter (new wheel and filter (carbon was removed)), and 100 watt heater. It also has an air pump stone. The QT tank was setup on 1/14/2013 using 1.023 salt water and is being maintained at 79°F. I noticed ammonia up to 1.2 within 4 days and it has just spiked and appears to be starting to decline. I am also slowly raising the SG every day when I top off with RO/DI water. I did use a shrimp to help with the cycle, but the smell was too much after 24 hours and I threw it out.
Finally to our questions:
1) After reading some opinions on the Real Reef Rock, I am not sure there is enough surface area. We tried to place the rocks so that they have a lot of water flow and a lot of surface area. However, they are not nearly as porous as real rock and that concerns me. I was thinking about ordering some live rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater. Do I need to get more rock? If so, do I need to get another 60lbs, or less? I understand that particular rock will have some un-wanted hitchhikers that could be placed in the QT to get rid of those unwanted hitchhikers. I hope to not find and any mantis shrimp or unwanted crabs but if they are QT I don't see a big deal. The review of the rock seems to be very good.
2) We didn't wash the live sand - is that going to mess anything up in the future? I think it's too late to do anything about it. The sand we got is pretty fine - is that ok?
3) What should be added to the refugium and when? I was thinking about a DSB and then maybe some live rock rubble and Chateo. I don't have a ton of room so I think it will have to be two out of the three. Which two should I pick, and when do they need to be added?
4) Should I expect the tank cycle if it hasn't yet? It has been a few weeks and still there has not been any ammonia. How much longer should I wait?
5) The pH is a little low. Will that go up, or do we need to do anything to help it along? The LFS suggested we buy something for it but then we read online that we couldn't use it on reefs.
6) INVERTS! We are just not sure where to even start. Some people love hermits and emerald crabs, but others say they are terrible. Are hermits and crabs really that destructive? Others say to avoid crabs and just get snails? If so, we have read about the turbo snails, but what other kinds of snails should we get? How many of each, and when to add them? I don't think adding them all at once is a good idea as there isn't that much food in the tank yet.
7) When is a good time to start the skimmer? Should I start breaking it in or wait until I am done with the cycle.
I appreciate your opinion and any advice you can offer. I have read a lot, but it becomes overwhelming when there is no specific formula for anything.
Here are some pictures of the tank and sump.







Thanks,
Paul and Jo