New to the Nano reef

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8825428#post8825428 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by colinadam
Filter Floss - Use 1 clump about the size of your hand, replace with new floss weekly, can't rinse.

DOH! Yeah, you are right...I was thinking filter block/sponge for whatever reason when I wrote that...so, in this case the bigger bag is probably the cheaper way to go becuase you'll end up spending more in the end...

As for the skimmer...all you said was skimmer...if you mean the surface skimmer like colinadam said, just call for a new one after looking long and hard...or, use a cassette tape mod...

If you meant a protein skimmer, I understand that they don't come with one...although, the only real good skimmer that will fit in the stock 24 DX is a Sapphire...look it up online...they are made to fit in the 2nd compartment in the back...all the others (such as the Fission) really suck...don't even go there and save yourself the hassle...

Good luck with your build...make sure you start a build thread soon so we can all follow along there...or, just turn this in to your build thread... Show us you stuff, post some pics so we can see what ya got...and what you build/buy...

Go slow and have patience...ask lots of questions and do research before you do anything...believe me, I've learnt the hard way when I tried to start a seahorse tank (my wifes idea, hence how I came to salt water )...and above all else, have fun!!

 

[kmmcgra]

Go to Walmart and get filter floss. They have big bags for like $3. It's in the sewing section of walmart.

 

[Hopeful Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8828092#post8828092 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kmmcgra
Go to Walmart and get filter floss. They have big bags for like $3. It's in the sewing section of walmart.

Is this the same thing though? If you are talking about pillow stuffing, I would be afraid something, some chemical or compound would leach out in to the tank water...I would be leary of this until someone can show me it is reef safe...

 

[slukach]

Guys,

Thanks alot for helping me out with all this stuff. I was a bit worried that I had gotten ripped off with the nano. I started to think that the reason they were able to give away a free stand was because they were selling old inventory. But I feel better after hearing about the sticker with the "made on" date.

And I agree with Hopeful Reefer as to the Walmart filter floss. I would have to be sure that it was reef safe.

And, Colinadam, I didn't actually open the tank, I just checked for cracks from shipping. So, I may have spoken too soon in saying the skimmer wasn't included. I just didn't see any mention of it on the box itself and I thought there would be. BTW, the pic you included above...is that a goby under the rock? If so, what type? Also, how big was the starfish when you got him? And how quick do they grow? In your opinions, would it be possible to get a small one and keep it for a while until it outgrew the tank? I was also curious, when you said you had it for only a short period of time, what do you do with it when you take it out of the tank?

And finally, how long is the purigen bag good for (how often should I change it)?

Thanks again for all the good info.

 

[slukach]

Oh yeah, any of you guys keep urchins?

 

[slukach]

I was also wondering what I should start with (livestock-wise). Any suggestions? Some of the stuff you had in your tank on your build thread, Colinadam, was beautiful, especially the different species on the sand and rock in front of the larger rock structure near the back of the tank. The polyps, mushrooms, coral etc. Also, do you guys think zoas are a bad idea? The colors of some of them are vivd and I think they would make a great addition to the tank. Would their toxin affect the tank?

 

[Hopeful Reefer]

First off, as for livestock...get your water parameters just right...wait for the cycle to stop and give the water time to stabilize...then, maybe add a fish and re-evaluate the water quality...make sure you have good parameters AND can keep them that way before considering corals...if you add a good, hearty fish they will survive with some impurities in the water long enough to learn what is wrong and correct it and prevent it for the future...then is when you can add corals...they are much more delicate and require excellent water quality...

As for the Zoas...I personally wouldn't shy away from them just because of the toxins...if you wear gloves, and handle them with care you shouldn't have a problem...just remember to handle them with care, wash hands afterwards and you should do ok...they would make a beautiful addition to any reef tank...and the toxin doesn't affect the tank, many people keep Zoas with no adverse affects (I would venture to say most people but I don't know "most" people on here personally )

And as for any bag of media...check the manufacturers recommendations...but typically, between 2 and 4 weeks is when most people change out their media...

 

[slukach]

What are some hardy types of fish that I could add to start with?

Also, I forgot to ask before, what is the preference between cured and uncured live rock? There doesn't seem to be much of a price difference.

 

[slukach]

As for water quality, I live in Philly, so you can imagine the quality of the tap water here. I was wondering, could I use a Brita water filter to clean tap water and use the clean water for the tank...or will the brita clean the water too well, taking out essential nutrients, etc? It seems like it may be a viable option, rather than purchasing 5 gallons of distilled water every week. But I want to be sure its ok first.

 

[Illuminati]

The one on the left is a Yellow Watchman Goby

The one on the right is a Blue Bar Pseudochromis

Here's the filter floss thread, it tells what to buy-
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=994296

Purigen can be recharged so you really only need one. Basically when it's used up you soak it in a bleach/water solution then soak it in a water/dechlorinator solution, here's a good dechlorinator- http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produ...ll&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1
It can be found in smaller bottles at most LFS.


I ordered the starfish from Premium Aquatics when I got my second part of my cleanup crew, didn't realize it would be so big and the second I got it in the tank I regretted it. It stayed in the rockwork for a week until I decided to take him out and take him to a LFS so they could do something with it. I had to tear apart the rock to get it out and I put him in a plastic isolation box in the tank, he died overnight (probably starvation) and let me tell you the smell was horrid. If it would have died in the tank I cannot imagine the results, it would have taken everything else with it I'm sure.
I would see what your LFS says about a nano starfish, maybe ask in the invert forum here and see if someone has an idea of a species that would work.

I have 2 friends with urchins, they will knock over rockwork when they go around the tank.

Agree on getting the hardier fish first, in my case it was a clown.
What kind of fish do you definatly want to keep?

Uncured liverock has a lot of dieoff. You will have a bigger and longer cycle and will probably not get the cool hitchhikers that can be found on cured liverock (pods, crabs, I had a cool scroll algae on my rock). Go with cured.

Check into an RO/DI machine. The Filter Guys have great RO/DI units for just over $100. Also invest in a TDS monitor, should be around $20. You can monitor your water quality with the TDS meter. I use well water and I'm a stones throw from Lake Michigan so I know about crappy water.
In the long run a RO/DI unit is cheaper than bottled water.

 

[Hopeful Reefer]

The RO/DI filter is definitely the way to go...if you have a TDS monitor, or access to one and want to do a comparison before getting an RO/DI unit here is something you can do...

Go out to your local grocery store or hardware store and buy a Brita filter...they aren't that expensive...now, before you install it test your tap water to see what the TDS reading is (TDS = total disolved solids, in case you didn't know )...now, install the Brita and run it to flush per the manufacturers recommendations...after that, test the water again...this has been done by many people here on RC before and if the Brita unit removes anything at all, you probably will see the TDS reading maybe (and I do stress maybe) go down 1-2 ppm...they are a crock and really don't do anything...definitely get an RO/DI unit...

Many people start with clowns...you can go to most of the live fish sites and find a section or explanation in the fish description about hardy type fish...

Ditto what colinadam said about the live rock...

Good luck...glad we can help...

 

[slukach]

I think I will start with clowns (any specific variety?). And I will for sure go with the cured live rock.

Jeez, there is so much info to learn. it is almost overwhelming. I think I will start with the distilled water for a little and a few months down the road, get the RO/DI filter.

Also, I made a purchase yesterday from Dr. F&S. One of those Maxi Jet 1200's (is it tough to change out the stock pump?), 2 heaters (one for the tank and one for water changes), 160 gallons of salt, filter floss, purigen, and chemi clean (i may be forgetting one or two things). Where does the purigen, chemi clean, and filter floss go (as far as the 3 chambers). Also, where in the tank should I put the heater?

 

[Hopeful Reefer]

Personally, in any setup you can use the following setup...

From your overflow, send the water first through the filter floss (or filter sponge if you ever go that route - just clean them weekly)...the filter floss will catch any floating debris...in a nano, the filter floss can be immediately inside the first chamber...then, send your water from the filter floss through your chem bags...the second chamber is really good as a refugium...Drs F & S has 3 different lights that are good for refugiums (since you seem to be ordering a lot from them )...the smallest one will fit under the hood over the 2nd chamber with the hood shut...put your heater in here...the 3rd chamber is for the return pump...

As for the clowns, many people start with false perculas...basically, Nemo from the movie Finding Nemo (if you haven't seen it, go rent it - that movie will make you want a TON of stuff you can't have! :lol: - may even make you want a bigger tank )...you can also go with tomato clowns...

 

[Illuminati]

I'd get a smaller True Perc or Ocellaris, they are the more peaceful options. I have a Clarki and he's a jerk, killed my firefish.

Swapping out the pumps is easy. In the third chamber there is a tube that connects the pump to the nozzle. You will have to cut the zip tie, then you can pull the entire pump out. Simple swap, just don't forget to ziptie the tubing to the nozzle when your done.
Also the Maxijet will come with a bracket and 3 suction cups. I put those onto the pump and placed that at the bottom of the chamber. The suction cups I guess help with vibration/noise.
It's a tight fit but it works.

My chambers

Chamber 1 - Chemi-pure on the bottom, Filter Floss above that.
Chamber 2 - Purigen on the bottom, heater
Chamber 3 - MaxiJet 1200

 

[slukach]

Hopeful reefer,

When you said "from your overflow, send the water...." Does this mean when I am first filling the tank (or any partial water changes for that matter), should I pour the new water directly into the first chamber in the back of the tank, or just start the mechanism and dump the water into the tank?

Also, to start, I plan on mixing the water and salt 5 gallons at a time and then dumping it in. As per Hopeful reefer's suggestion, I will fill it about 3/4 way up and then add the rock. If the water quality isn't perfect, will it destroy the live rock?

Also, when mixing the water and salt using the stock pump, do I fully submerge the pump?, and should I fix it to the side of the bucket or let it just sit in the water?

So many questions I have.....

 

[Illuminati]

Overflow = Intake Grill. The first thing water should hit when it goes into the back chamber is some sort of floss or sponge to catch debris.

I'd fix the stock pump to the side of the bucket, otherwise it could hit the bottom of the bucket and reduce the amount of water it moves, defeating the purpose of the pump (Trust me it happens).

When I do water changes I do pour the water into the back chambers, your corals and fishies will like you better if you don't drop the water on top of them

 

[Hopeful Reefer]

What I mean by "send the water" is simply the flow of water when the system is operational...through the overflow teeth, the through the filter floss, etc...sorry to confuse ya...

As far as mixing...make sure there is a heater in there...doesn't matter where in the bucket the powerhead is, just so long as there is some circulation...you can use the pump you pull out of the Nanocube to do this... :Edit: You know, colinadam does have a good point...center of the bucket for the pump...

As far as die off, it doesn't matter about the water quality...cured rock or uncured rock either one will have some die off once it is in your water...exposed to air, something will die in transit to you and other things will die from the stress of it all...this is what starts your cycle...this stuff as it decays turns to ammonia, which turns to nitrite after the ammonia eating bacteria develop...then, the nitrite eating bacteria develop and turn the nitrite in to nitrates...the actual bacteria inside the live rock will survive the trip, which if I remember correctly is what processes the nitrates (just can't handle huge amounts of nitrates which is what a refugium with macro algae is good for)...it is just the other living organisms on the rock that will die...and this isn't to say that they will all die, but some ultimately will...usually the only way to avoid this is to purchase live rock somewhere close to home where you can keep it wet in a bucket or bag or something and put it straight from water in to your tank...

 

[slukach]

How long does it take to mix the salt and water until it is ready to put in the tank? Mostly what I have read is that the salt should be totally dissolved, but is there a time period?

Also, have been doing some searching and I saw that fishsupply.com (one of the sponsors on here) has cured fiji LR for $90/30lbs. That seems pretty legit. Let me know if you guys know of any other deals. Also, can I tell them it is for a nano? Or should I just get the rock and break it with a hammer if it is too big?

Colinadam, is the watchman gobi a good starter fish? I have read they are pretty hardy. And, Iwould like to pair up the pistol shrimp with it. Seems like it would be a nice addy to a nano

Finally, I am going to go with the clowns for sure (the woman will love it). How many should I get? Just one? or a couple so they are used to each other rather than adding one, then another.

I know this is down the road a bit, but at what point is the tank over stocked? 4 fish, 3 corals? 7 fish, 2 corals, 3 zoas?, etc. I noticed colinadam had a crazy variety of things going on in his build thread pics.

 

[slukach]

Oh yeah...any recommendations on a cleaning crew---actual package or place to get it? Should I add a cleaning crew before the fish? And what type of acclimation should I use for the cleaning crew (since it is a different variety of livestock).

AND.....how is the LR shipped (in water, etc.)? In setting up the tank, I would like to have the LR on the day I put the water in. But if the timing is off and the LR gets delivered on a day when I won't be home until late, etc, will it be alright?

 

[Hopeful Reefer]

The thing you want to watch with fish vs. corals is the bioload...fish put off a TON more detritus (poop) than corals do...having too many fish in a tank, especially a nano, can foul the water quick...for a 24g nano, you can get a set of small, paired clowns, and maybe 1 or 2 other fish...I wouldn't go more than 4 tops though...

Many places sell live rock specifically for nano tanks...same price and quantity, they just pick smaller pieces for you that will fit in a nano...check that out...

As for mixing salt water, it takes longer to bring the replacement water up to the temperature of the tank than anything else...basically, 24 hours should be sufficient...

As far as a cleaning crew, you have more than enough time to look at them...many people have many different opinions as to the "perfect cleaning crew"...do some research...find out what each type of snail, crab, etc. actually does for a tank and then make your own decisions as to what you want...plus, you won't need them until after your cycle is over or just about over...

Live rock is shipped "moist" in styrofoam containers or in boxes...an hour or two more out of water for your live rock won't really make that much of a difference as far as die off...now, if it is going to sit in a box at your house for days, then you have to worry...

One easy way to have water ready when your live rock arrives is to go buy several 5g gas cans from HD or Lowes...don't put anything in them and label them clearly for salt water only...go to a LFS and get some of their pre-mixed salt water...that way, on the day the rock gets there the water is already done...just make sure it is inside your house that way over a couple of days it will become room temperature...put your sand and water in like shown previously, put in rock and aquascape, and finish filling and viola...you will have a tank ready for a cycle to start...just make sure you brush off (with a brand new toothbrush) anything that is just lying on the rock...if you want, get a 5g bucket of salt water and swish the rock around to remove anything loose...and brush away any algae, dead coralline, etc...you'll know what is dead by looking at it...

Can't wait to see pics of this...