Hopeful Reefer
Premium Member
Also, I thought the chems were supposed to be run in bags with the flow going through them...could be wrong...did your cube come with any filter-type bags?
New to the Nano reef
- Thread starter slukach
- Start date
- Status
The purigen was in a bag, but the chemi-clean is just a white powder. And it says to dump it in the tank, two scoops. No bag. I am going to try to get as much out as possible, but the stuff was like a powder.
Ugh....I hope it doesn't mess thinigs up too bad.
Here is the link to the stuff:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&pc=1&N=0&Nty=1
Let me know what you guys think.
Ugh....I hope it doesn't mess thinigs up too bad.
Here is the link to the stuff:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&pc=1&N=0&Nty=1
Let me know what you guys think.
Hopeful Reefer
Premium Member
After looking at it, it says that it binds with stuff in the tank...guess it binds up floating organics like excess disolved food and such to clear up the tank...give it a day or so and let us know...
Just spoke to a techie at Dr. F&S. He said the cloud is totally natural and that, even if there were inverts and fish in the tank, they would be fine.
It will dissolve after a few cycles through the filter. Whew...thank god. I was worried I caused some serious damage.
The techie said I could even throw in the chemi-pure if I had it (which unfortunately I don't...but I will be getting some).
It will dissolve after a few cycles through the filter. Whew...thank god. I was worried I caused some serious damage.
The techie said I could even throw in the chemi-pure if I had it (which unfortunately I don't...but I will be getting some).
Illuminati
Premium Member
Yikes, disaster averted. Glad it doesn't do any harm. I've never heard of the stuff before.
Well just run Purigen in the middle chamber and do your water change, then you can get something like this:
Sorry, had to throw the picture in
Well just run Purigen in the middle chamber and do your water change, then you can get something like this:
Sorry, had to throw the picture in
greggwisniewski
New member
Well i took one of the perc clowns back today, they didnt seem to be getting along to well so figured I would take one back before i had to go dipping one out... whats strange is the one left is still jus staying towards the upper back of the tank. he eats but stays pretty much in one spot all the time...maybe he is still getting acclimated to the tank, I think i am going to wait a bit before introducing any new fish... maybe add some corlas or anenome
BTW the angel looks awesome, how big are they supposed to get?
BTW the angel looks awesome, how big are they supposed to get?
Illuminati
Premium Member
Live aquaria says that they can get up to 4" in length. Mine wont get much bigger than he is already.
Let's see if these pictures work
Let's see if these pictures work
Guys,
How can I raise the pH in my tank a touch? It is at about 8.0 (maybe a little more, depending on how you interpret the color after the test). I have a little bottle of pH buffer that came with the test kit, but I am not sure if I should put that in.
Also, Colin, what is that black fish in the pic above? and, if I were to get a dwarf angel down the road, would it be compatible with the clowns? Also, as far as clowns go...true percs is what I should be getting right? Didn't you say the Clarkii killed another fish of yours?
How can I raise the pH in my tank a touch? It is at about 8.0 (maybe a little more, depending on how you interpret the color after the test). I have a little bottle of pH buffer that came with the test kit, but I am not sure if I should put that in.
Also, Colin, what is that black fish in the pic above? and, if I were to get a dwarf angel down the road, would it be compatible with the clowns? Also, as far as clowns go...true percs is what I should be getting right? Didn't you say the Clarkii killed another fish of yours?
Illuminati
Premium Member
An article on PH:
Saltwater Aquarium pH and Alkalinity Simplified
The pH (power of Hydrogen) level in a saltwater aquarium is a constant concern to most aquarists. Whereas the occupants in a FO (Fish Only) tank can tolerate a fairly wide range of pH levels for periods of time with no major harm, the occupants of a reef tank rely heavily on a constant pH level in the right range to just survive, let alone thrive.
To control or adjust pH we must first understand what it is. In order to keep this discussion fairly basic, we won't get into the interactions of ions on a chemical level that make it all happen. We will just stick with what happens on a layman's level. If you are of a mind for a more scientific explanation, read John H. Tullock's "Water Chemistry: pH and Alkalinity"article.
pH is simply a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution.
A pH of 7 is considered to be "neutral", neither acid or alkaline. pH levels above 7 are considered to be alkaline or "base". pH levels below 7 are considered to be acidic.
The generally accepted pH level in saltwater systems is between 7.6 and 8.4, but reef tanks are a bit more sensitive to pH and should be kept more toward higher levels. The normal trend for pH in a tank is downward, or more acidic. The additions of acids into a tank will lower the pH in the tank water. These acids come from several sources, the primary ones being: (1) excess carbon dioxide (CO2) from respiration caused by lack of sufficient gas exchange, (2) nitric acid from biological filtration (nitrification), and (3) organic acids from metabolic wastes. Respiration and metabolic wastes are a natural part of the ocean. The reason that sea water pH does not change is that sea water contains a number of chemicals, such as bicarbonate, calcium, carbonate, borate and hydroxide, which act as natural "buffers" that retard the drop in pH.
The degree to which a solution maintains its pH when acid is added is termed the "alkalinity" of the solution. Related terms used in reference to aquariums are "carbonate or calcium hardness", and its German equivalent, "KH or dKH". The amount of "buffers" in sea water determines the alkalinity.
When the pH in a tank starts to drop, it is an indication that the buffers are getting worn out. There are a few things that you can do to remedy this increase in acidity. You can use "quick fix" methods by adding bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) or any number of commercial pH buffering products available on the market.
The generally accepted "tried and true" method for stabilizing pH is still performing regular partial water changes in your tank. This not only refreshes the natural buffers, but also restores the trace minerals in your tank water. Of course, reducing the causes of the drop in pH is always wise. Removing all uneaten foods and fish detritus from the tank on a regular basis will go a long way toward retarding the pH drop.
If you want to get into a more constant and automated (and a bit more complicated) method of maintaining your pH levels, along with adding the constant supply of calcium needed to maintain a reef tank, you can graduate to dosing methods or using a calcium reactor. To learn more about adding or dosing with calcium (a.ka. limewater or kalkwasser), as well as how it relates to pH, alkalinity and KH, refer to our Aquarium Maintenance and Care Resource Index.
When did you do your waterchange? Or are you doing it tuesday? That can help get the ph up. Also that oxygen sucking chemi-clean didn't help matters. I wouldn't worry about it.
The fish is a Blue Assesor, cool fish, basslett family (same as a Royal Gramma), also comes in Yellow, I'd get the yellow if I could do it over, it's to dark of a blue.
Yeah I had a Clarki and he killed my firefish, nasty mean fish, glad he's gone.
I do plan to get another red firefish to replace the one I had in a few weeks.
All fish have a unique personality. If your clowns are mellow I don't see why you couldn't get a flame down the road but flame angels have been known to nip on LPS and eat softie corals. Find a good LFS that will do returns
Saltwater Aquarium pH and Alkalinity Simplified
The pH (power of Hydrogen) level in a saltwater aquarium is a constant concern to most aquarists. Whereas the occupants in a FO (Fish Only) tank can tolerate a fairly wide range of pH levels for periods of time with no major harm, the occupants of a reef tank rely heavily on a constant pH level in the right range to just survive, let alone thrive.
To control or adjust pH we must first understand what it is. In order to keep this discussion fairly basic, we won't get into the interactions of ions on a chemical level that make it all happen. We will just stick with what happens on a layman's level. If you are of a mind for a more scientific explanation, read John H. Tullock's "Water Chemistry: pH and Alkalinity"article.
pH is simply a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution.
A pH of 7 is considered to be "neutral", neither acid or alkaline. pH levels above 7 are considered to be alkaline or "base". pH levels below 7 are considered to be acidic.
The generally accepted pH level in saltwater systems is between 7.6 and 8.4, but reef tanks are a bit more sensitive to pH and should be kept more toward higher levels. The normal trend for pH in a tank is downward, or more acidic. The additions of acids into a tank will lower the pH in the tank water. These acids come from several sources, the primary ones being: (1) excess carbon dioxide (CO2) from respiration caused by lack of sufficient gas exchange, (2) nitric acid from biological filtration (nitrification), and (3) organic acids from metabolic wastes. Respiration and metabolic wastes are a natural part of the ocean. The reason that sea water pH does not change is that sea water contains a number of chemicals, such as bicarbonate, calcium, carbonate, borate and hydroxide, which act as natural "buffers" that retard the drop in pH.
The degree to which a solution maintains its pH when acid is added is termed the "alkalinity" of the solution. Related terms used in reference to aquariums are "carbonate or calcium hardness", and its German equivalent, "KH or dKH". The amount of "buffers" in sea water determines the alkalinity.
When the pH in a tank starts to drop, it is an indication that the buffers are getting worn out. There are a few things that you can do to remedy this increase in acidity. You can use "quick fix" methods by adding bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) or any number of commercial pH buffering products available on the market.
The generally accepted "tried and true" method for stabilizing pH is still performing regular partial water changes in your tank. This not only refreshes the natural buffers, but also restores the trace minerals in your tank water. Of course, reducing the causes of the drop in pH is always wise. Removing all uneaten foods and fish detritus from the tank on a regular basis will go a long way toward retarding the pH drop.
If you want to get into a more constant and automated (and a bit more complicated) method of maintaining your pH levels, along with adding the constant supply of calcium needed to maintain a reef tank, you can graduate to dosing methods or using a calcium reactor. To learn more about adding or dosing with calcium (a.ka. limewater or kalkwasser), as well as how it relates to pH, alkalinity and KH, refer to our Aquarium Maintenance and Care Resource Index.
When did you do your waterchange? Or are you doing it tuesday? That can help get the ph up. Also that oxygen sucking chemi-clean didn't help matters. I wouldn't worry about it.
The fish is a Blue Assesor, cool fish, basslett family (same as a Royal Gramma), also comes in Yellow, I'd get the yellow if I could do it over, it's to dark of a blue.
Yeah I had a Clarki and he killed my firefish, nasty mean fish, glad he's gone.
I do plan to get another red firefish to replace the one I had in a few weeks.
All fish have a unique personality. If your clowns are mellow I don't see why you couldn't get a flame down the road but flame angels have been known to nip on LPS and eat softie corals. Find a good LFS that will do returns
Illuminati
Premium Member
Duh, forgot to post this picture of my Blue Assesor when i first got him
Here you can see more of his blue
I've had him and his partner my blue bar pseudochromis 4 months today!
Here you can see more of his blue
I've had him and his partner my blue bar pseudochromis 4 months today!
Thanks for the info. I did a 25% water change today and I am going to do another 25% change tomorrow before I put the cleaner crew in. So, it should be alright. The alk is right on in the normal range, as are all other tests. The pH might be ok too, just a little off on the color reading. It could be either 8.0 or 8.2, depending on how I read it.
As for frequent water changes, it is alot easier than I thought it would be. I figured it would be this big, time consuming hassle. But I actually enjoyed doing it, knowing it was keeping the tank clean, and keeping stuff fresh.
I still can't get over the variety of life you have in that tank, Colin. The 1st and 3rd pic of your last post is rife with all different types of zoas, mushies, corals, etc., not to mention the fish as well.
2 more quick questions:
1. Is it normal for the diatom bloom to show up a little on the glass of the tank?
2. The cleaning crew is supposed to be delivered by 10:30am...give or take an hour or so. How long are they ok in the bags they are shipped in? I want to do that other change tomorrow, but not too early, since I didn't get the water change done today until almost 2 in the afternoon. I know I won't be able to wait until 2 tomorrow (wanted to wait 24 hours to do the second one), but I wanted to wait so it was close enough to a 24 hour period.
As for frequent water changes, it is alot easier than I thought it would be. I figured it would be this big, time consuming hassle. But I actually enjoyed doing it, knowing it was keeping the tank clean, and keeping stuff fresh.
I still can't get over the variety of life you have in that tank, Colin. The 1st and 3rd pic of your last post is rife with all different types of zoas, mushies, corals, etc., not to mention the fish as well.
2 more quick questions:
1. Is it normal for the diatom bloom to show up a little on the glass of the tank?
2. The cleaning crew is supposed to be delivered by 10:30am...give or take an hour or so. How long are they ok in the bags they are shipped in? I want to do that other change tomorrow, but not too early, since I didn't get the water change done today until almost 2 in the afternoon. I know I won't be able to wait until 2 tomorrow (wanted to wait 24 hours to do the second one), but I wanted to wait so it was close enough to a 24 hour period.
Illuminati
Premium Member
Yeah you'll get some brown algae on your glass. They sell a magnetic cleaner called a mag float. Doesn't do a ton of good since it's huge and we have curves to deal with. Do a google search for the "Nimble Nano Cleaner", same idea but much smaller.
To clean the glass I use a microfiber cloth I got at an LFS. He gave it to me when I bought the mag float to use in between the glass and the magnet but I found it easier to use it with my hand.
I also scrape off coraline algae or other buildup with a razor blade (Not a box cutter, just the blade). I angle it and it works like a charm, if you come straight at the glass it doesn't do any good, gotta angle it.
I got a cleanup crew shipped 2 day without problems. If you are getting this overnight then you can wait until 2 o'clock or until after your water change. They should be in little bags with a damp paper towel, I just floated them for a half hour (to temp acclimate) and dropped them in.
What did your final cleanup crew look like? Did you do any substitutions?
Thanks for the compliment about the tank. it has gone through a lot of stages, I can't tell you how many things I've bought, gotten sick of and traded for something else
I'm finally starting to slow down and have things just about how I want to keep them.
To clean the glass I use a microfiber cloth I got at an LFS. He gave it to me when I bought the mag float to use in between the glass and the magnet but I found it easier to use it with my hand.
I also scrape off coraline algae or other buildup with a razor blade (Not a box cutter, just the blade). I angle it and it works like a charm, if you come straight at the glass it doesn't do any good, gotta angle it.
I got a cleanup crew shipped 2 day without problems. If you are getting this overnight then you can wait until 2 o'clock or until after your water change. They should be in little bags with a damp paper towel, I just floated them for a half hour (to temp acclimate) and dropped them in.
What did your final cleanup crew look like? Did you do any substitutions?
Thanks for the compliment about the tank. it has gone through a lot of stages, I can't tell you how many things I've bought, gotten sick of and traded for something else
I'm finally starting to slow down and have things just about how I want to keep them.
I took your advice about the crew and substituted 4 hermits for 2 nerite and 2 nassarius. So, a few less hermits than they were offering.
And, it is overnight. It left CA this afternoon and will be here tomorrow. So, I can wait to do the water change closer to 2pm. Thats good.
How long do you think I should wait to add a few fish? Is there a set waiting period or does it depend on how quick the cleaner crew does the job?
Also, what do you feed the clown and yellow watchman and also the coral you have? I think Bryan from pure captive said the zoa's don't really need food fed to them, they just pick up stuff from the water and also the light helps them out.
And, it is overnight. It left CA this afternoon and will be here tomorrow. So, I can wait to do the water change closer to 2pm. Thats good.
How long do you think I should wait to add a few fish? Is there a set waiting period or does it depend on how quick the cleaner crew does the job?
Also, what do you feed the clown and yellow watchman and also the coral you have? I think Bryan from pure captive said the zoa's don't really need food fed to them, they just pick up stuff from the water and also the light helps them out.
Illuminati
Premium Member
I would wait at least until the diatom bloom is under control, that way after the cleaners are done with that they can go to work on the detrius (waste & excess food) when you have a fish or two in there.
The main thing I feed my tank with is Mysis shrimp. The clown and th YWG love it (although most people that have a YWG will say he eats like 2 pieces and is done, they eat stuff out of the sandbed).
Brine that is enriched is o.k. but not as meaty as mysis, think of it as the junkfood of the ocean, something to have once in a while but not your staple.
I also have Formula One Frozen food that is a hit in my tank, I have to get Formula two for my new angle (The angle is a herbavore, won't touch mysis or shrimp).
Zoa's feed off an algae that is inside them (it's called like zooaxantylu.... whatever....)
Give them light and they are fine. If you ever start to see them get a longer stalk then they are reaching for the light and they need to be moved up.
You can feed some Palythoa's mysis, I have this one that will close around a piece of mysis if you drop it on the disk:
Palythoa's (a.k.a. Palys) are just like zoa's but are bigger.
I feed my LPS corals (Acans, Candycane & Blasto Welsi) mysis.
Check out DT's phytoplankton if you get softies like toadstool leathers and other filter feeders. it is also a good idea to dose a small amount of phyto to keep the pods fed (Pods eat phyto, corals and fish eat pods, it's like a mini circle of life).
The main thing I feed my tank with is Mysis shrimp. The clown and th YWG love it (although most people that have a YWG will say he eats like 2 pieces and is done, they eat stuff out of the sandbed).
Brine that is enriched is o.k. but not as meaty as mysis, think of it as the junkfood of the ocean, something to have once in a while but not your staple.
I also have Formula One Frozen food that is a hit in my tank, I have to get Formula two for my new angle (The angle is a herbavore, won't touch mysis or shrimp).
Zoa's feed off an algae that is inside them (it's called like zooaxantylu.... whatever....)
Give them light and they are fine. If you ever start to see them get a longer stalk then they are reaching for the light and they need to be moved up.
You can feed some Palythoa's mysis, I have this one that will close around a piece of mysis if you drop it on the disk:
Palythoa's (a.k.a. Palys) are just like zoa's but are bigger.
I feed my LPS corals (Acans, Candycane & Blasto Welsi) mysis.
Check out DT's phytoplankton if you get softies like toadstool leathers and other filter feeders. it is also a good idea to dose a small amount of phyto to keep the pods fed (Pods eat phyto, corals and fish eat pods, it's like a mini circle of life).
Hopeful Reefer
Premium Member
Cleaner crews aren't really affected by the light...put it all on, on timers of course... 
Where is that link to a thread showing all your pics by the way?? Hmmmm? :lol:
Where is that link to a thread showing all your pics by the way?? Hmmmm? :lol:
Hopeful,
I am so technologically bad, I am lucky I am able to actually get on here and communicate with you guys.
The pics I posted of the my tank with the rock in it were the only ones I got up so far (in fact I screwed that up, since only one pic ended up on this thread and the other three came up as separate new threads). As soon as I get my stuff together I will be sure to post it all. There are pics of the rock in the container it came in, pics of me using your bag and bowl method, and a bunch of others.
I promise that as soon as I get a little better at the posting thing, I will put them all up.
Ok, crew is acclimating and will be in soon.
Steve
I am so technologically bad, I am lucky I am able to actually get on here and communicate with you guys.
The pics I posted of the my tank with the rock in it were the only ones I got up so far (in fact I screwed that up, since only one pic ended up on this thread and the other three came up as separate new threads). As soon as I get my stuff together I will be sure to post it all. There are pics of the rock in the container it came in, pics of me using your bag and bowl method, and a bunch of others.
I promise that as soon as I get a little better at the posting thing, I will put them all up.
Ok, crew is acclimating and will be in soon.
Steve
- Status
