Newbie Looking for stocking advice

[Trandall]

Hi. I hope you experienced fish keepers don't mind my posting. I've had smaller SW tanks in the past but nothing this large. Am currently setting up a 210 gallon FOWLR system and could really use some stocking advice by those of you who have successfully done this in the past.

I really like most all SW fish but prefer the Angels, Tangs, Triggers, Puffers, Lions, Wrasses, etc. Would also like some substrate dwellers.

Would you all mind making some stocking recommendations for me? As to compatibilioty, as well as hardy varieties?

Am starting with 150 pounds of live rock. Am looking at some relatively large fish < but not monsters> so what would my max capacity be as to final stocking numbers.

I appreicate all the help any/all of you could give & thank you in advance.

Terri Randall

 

[gunny03]

Clown trigger, small to medium sized grouper, zebra eel

 

[Trandall]

Hmmm??? I am looking for long term compatibility. I was always told that Clown Triggers were not good candidates as they would eventually eat their tank mates? Love them but always thought I'd need to keep them separate. The grouper as well. Wouldn't it soon get big enough to eat it's tank mates?
Thanks!

 

[gunny03]

I had a leopard grouper and he was the coolest fish, he never acted agressive but i traded him in because my tank is only 72g atm and Picasso triggers are well tempered.

 

[LisaD]

This is my favorite mix for that sized tank. The imperator angel will get a little on the large size for the tank, but everything else should be fine for life:

Imperator angel (OR Koran OR pair Genicanthus angels)
Harlequin tuskfish
Mimic tang (Acanthurus pyroferus)
"mild mannered", "smaller"trigger like pink tail OR blue throat
Dog face puffer OR Lionfish

If you like eels, fairly well behaved, smallish eel (I have a Brazilian dragon moray) - zebra morays are really nice too, but mine has gotten huge and it is not out all that much. But it has never bothered a fish, ever, in about the 7 years or so I've had it...

Not sure what you mean by substrate dwellers. You mean like a large sand-sifting goby? Engineer gobies get 12", and are really cool. A large dragon goby might be able to survive in the tank. Or are you talking about sand burrowing wrasses?

BTW, I have a "small" grouper, the black tipped grouper. This pic isn't from my tank, but it's a nice representation...

It is supposed to get up to 16 inches (but I've heard they are usually smaller in aquaria). It's a nice fish, so far, with a pretty good temperament. It hides, darts out for food. I can see this fish, and eel and a trigger surviving long term. Though I think a clown trigger would eventually outgrow your tank. I'd pick another trigger that stayed smaller and that may be a little less aggressive, like a picasso, Assasi (I love those) or others in the Rhinecanthus genus, which stay around 1 foot. You could keep a Niger, but they do get kind of large.

 

[Trandall]

Thank you Lisa. I like the mix you describe. As for substrate, I was thinking Gobi's or Wrasses.
I really like the Angels, Tusk fish, Tangs & Triggers. Puffers are another favorite and of course lions. That Grouper looks very interesting. Nice fish. I've had Niger's in the past and always liked them.
Just want to do this right, not over stock but want the most bang for my buck eventually. So how many fish, like those you described could you comfortably put in a 210?

What I've been finding...is a number of fish that I like, the recommendation is to add them last < Triggers, Tangs & even some Angels> I can't add all of them last!?!

Thanks again~

 

[LisaD]

How many fish can depend a lot on your filtration capacity and water quality maintenance regime. IMO you could probably keep all or most of the ones I suggested in the tank (~ six to seven moderate to large sized fish) as well as a few smaller fish.

As far as order to add, the triggers and tang I suggested are not especially aggressive. If you get a juvenile or subadult angel, I think it could be added any time. Harlequin tusks are shy, but can stand up for themselves, so, again, not sure it matters when added.

Anything that might eat other fish (like a grouper or a Brazilian dragon moray or lionfish) should be added when smallish, and probably later, anyway, after potential food has a chance to settle in, find hiding spots and grow up a little...

BTW, this is what my Brazilian dragon moray looks like:

It's not the one in my tank, I borrowed the image from Atlantis Aquarium's site.

 

[Trandall]

Thanks Lisa. That is a very cool looking Eel. would an eel like that eat smaller fish, gobies, etc.

With my set up and leaning towards the larger fish, could I also keep a couple anenome fish and a host anenome?

 

[LisaD]

I love this eel, but it would eat smaller fish in a heartbeat. My zebra moray is much larger, closer to 4 feet, and it has never bothered a fish, not even clowns or royal gramma.

I had clowns (and a royal gramma) with the following:

Emperor angel
Australian harlequin tuskfish
Mimic tang
Soapfish
Zebra moray eel
Blue throat trigger

Everyone got along great. I had all these fish except the trigger for 3-7 years. The whole tank crashed a few years ago with an outbreak of marine velvet. By the time I realized what it was, it was too late. The only survivor was the zebra moray (which I still have). I am reconstituting a similar mix in my 210. However, the Brazilian dragon moray and the grouper will keep me away from smaller fishes (unless I have yet another tank, just for them)

I don't know if an angel will pick at an anemone, and I don't know how aggressive the clowns will be defending it. But I think if you can keep the water quality high, and avoid fish like my dragon moray and grouper, you'd be good to go. Bubble tip anemones, and long tentacle anemones are the clownfish host anemones I am aware of that do best long term. I'd go with the bubble tip, an aquacultured one (or group) as they don't seem to demand as much light.

 

[Trandall]

Thanks so much! I really appreciate all your input.

 

[LisaD]

You're welcome. It's easy to do when talking about some of my favorite fish!

I should have mentioned that since you are new to salt water, take it slow, and don't give in to the temptation to add all the fish at once. Also, set up and use a QT tank. You can wipe out an entire tank (like I did) through skipping this step. I added live rock and a few small fish from my mom's long term tank - I had to divide the contents among my six other tanks and a few tubs. I had taken down the tank and drove everything back from NJ to NC. I "assumed" everything was safe because her tank had not had anything new added for at least 3 months. I was wrong, and as a result, lost nearly all my gorgeous and long-term fish in my largest and most favorite tank.

You could set up a 29 gallon, or even a Sterilite tub as a QT. I actually keep mine bare bottom, with live rock. If I need to medicate the fish, I remove the live rock. I try to keep the tank as stable as possible. The QT allows you to closely observe a new fish, let it acclimate and get established without stress from other fish, and avoid infecting your display tank with any pathogens it might be carrying. Generally, if the fish is looking fine and eating well after 2-3 weeks, you can put it in the display, though longer is safer. I QT some animals longer (for example, I generally QT seahorses 4-8 weeks).

There is a book I recommend. I've kept marine aquaria for about 30 years (since I was 15) and I still find this a useful reference:

New Marine Aquarium by Mike Paletta

It's less than $20, and it has the basics that should be the backbone of your saltwater keeping knowledge. Good section on which fish are hardy and which to avoid. I agree with his list, but I had to find out the hard way which fish thrive and which don't...

 

[Trandall]

I will look up that book. I already have 10 books specifically for Salt Water/reef aquaria but perhaps this one is better. Funny how it seems each different book has a slight different spin or opinion on things. And some of them are 10 to 15 years old so likely out dated in some respects.

I didn't know you could use a plastic tub for a QT? That's good to know. I do have 2-55 gallon tanks but don't really want to devote one of them as a QT.

I'm not totally new to SW, just new to doing it right I hope. This is my first large tank and I am going slow and won't hurry.

I'm setting it up and cycling it with LR, no fish or anything else for at least a month or more. Then, gradual introductions.
I was thinking of jusrt putting a very small, perhaps 5 to 10 gal. tank down below in my stand next to the sump and using that for a QT. Would that work?
So....bare tank, just lights, heat and filtration?