Nitrates too high?

reverendmaynard

New member
Hey guys,

My reef tank was recently purchased used from a owner who had been neglecting the tank for at least a year. I did not test the water that was in the tank, but there was a living royal gramma in it when I bought it (and later found some worms and what not surviving on the LR). Because I wanted to keep the gramma alive and happy, and to minimize the chance of starting the cycle from scratch, I used about 50% old water when I set it back up. Of course, the gramma died during the night after I set the tank up, still in his holding tub, for unknown reasons, so that ended up being somewhat of a wasted effort. Anyway, I now have nitrate levels of 20-30ppm, which I attribute mostly to the inital water since it really hasn't changed much in the 6 weeks since. I'm keeping up with it via wcs, but not reducing it.

I have a RDSB which should be just now be starting to be effective, so I'd like to avoid adding chemicals or using absorbtion media for the time being. I also have a refugium with macro, though it's really not growing much. I'm planning on getting chaeto or caulerpa to replace the gracilarus (sp?) I've got now.

I'm working on a diy counter-current skimmer which should be up and running by this coming weekend.

Anyway... I've got about 50 assorted snails/microhermits and 2 cleaner shrimp and some amphipods in the fuge, no corals (well, anthelia polyps but I don't think they do any calcification). I haven't seen any molting of the crabs (4 weeks) or shrimp (2 weeks) since I've had them, though the amphipods have. Also I'd like coralline to grow, to which end I've added several booster plates from ipsf.com. Also, I'd like to be able to keep corals in the future, but plan to wait at least 6 months for that.

So, finally to the question...
Are these levels of nitrates enough to inhibit calcification of snails/crabs/shrimp/coralline? Should I continue to try to reduce the nitrates via the exportation strategies I've outlined, or should I take more drastic measures to get it down and then allow those other strategies to keep it down?

I might as well add that I'm using phos-zorb currently, and have phos-pure for the future, but I do have detectable levels of phosphate (<.25ppm). Can this inhibit calcification?
 
Sorry, lost track of it in the shuffle.

20 ppm nitrate ion is not optimal, but not enough to preclude corals from growing. I wouldn't do anything special about it yet, if you think the DSB will work. The macroalgae is a good bet, IMO, if you switch to Caulerpa racemosa or Chaetomorpha and light it appropriately.

Phosphate, however, can at levels below your kit. You sure it only goers to 0.25 ppm as the bottom? I'd try to target 0.03 ppm or less.

These articles may help:

Phosphorus: Algaeââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s Best Friend
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm
 
Thanks for the reply. I thought it might be something like that, since I've never known you to not reply on this forum.

Ok, patience on the nitrates! I'll re-read the articles, but is there a specific level which does inhibit calcification?

This is that hagen test kit I've been asking about. It's primarily for freshwater, although it does have seperate saltwater color charts for everything. In FW, you really don't worry 'til it's over 1ppm. I'll double check to see if the lowest is .25 when I get home. I guess I'll replace the phosphate remover stuff, too.

Just to clarify...
If either of things are high enough to cause problems with calcification in corals, they would also cause problems for snails/shrimp/crabs/coralline, right? I mean, calcification is calcification, right?
 
I don't think it is demonstrated that nitrate inhibits calcification. What it seems to do is drive the zoox populations up, and that excessive growth of the zoox can take away nutrition that the coral needs.

If either of things are high enough to cause problems with calcification in corals, they would also cause problems for snails/shrimp/crabs/coralline, right?

Not shrimp or crabs, as they do not calcify that I know of. Coralline algae, yes. Snails maybe. :)
 
Well, I replaced my Phos-Zorb (Which did a very good job when I first put it in, but was probably overloaded by the levels I had before that (.25-.5)) with DrsF&S's Phospure last night. I'll take another reading tonight to see what effect it might have. At that time I'll verify that the lowest reading is .25.

I assume there is a kit that has a lower (or is it higher?) resolution. Let me guess... Salifert, right?

On a related note...
Different write-ups I have seen have had vastly different views on the difficulty of keeping Anthelia polyps (maybe species related?). Some say their easy, a nice beginning "coral", others say expert aquarist only. Do you have an opinion on that? If my polyps are growing, and even sprouting new polyps, should I take that as a sign that my water quality is pretty good?
 
I assume there is a kit that has a lower (or is it higher?) resolution.

Many phosphate kits can read much lower. Yes, Salifert does. I use a Hach kit (PO-19).


I don't have much to add about Anthelia except that many people think they are fairly easy to keep.
 
Just an update...

The DrsF&S Phospure cleared up the phosphates in one day. It's now undetectable by my kit. I used 8 tablespoons for my 150gal total volume system, placed in a AC500 HOT filter. Also replaced the carbon.

The lowest reading after 0 is indeed .25, going all the way up to 5ppm! In the instructions, it's say's lower than 1ppm is ok for both fw and sw. Obviously, they don't take reef tanks into account there.

I'll have to get a more sensitive kit, I guess.

Maybe I can return the SeaChem Iodine/Iodide kit I bought but haven't used yet.:rolleyes:

And, one of the shrimp molted yesterday, with no apparent problems. Is it important to remove the molt?
 
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