Nitrification and bacteria strains

[fishtk75]

To all the members here I need to ask that some say to add and some say no you do not have to add that is to but in new bacteria to help in the nitrification in the tanks. That to keep adding new strains to the tanks will help in older tanks.

 

[unclejed2]

To all the members here I need to ask that some say to add and some say no you do not have to add that is to but in new bacteria to help in the nitrification in the tanks. That to keep adding new strains to the tanks will help in older tanks.

Absolutely. Adding after a water change (if you go 4-6 weeks between changes) or once a month to once every two months is always a good regimen. Here is one of the best out there;
http://www.tsbiolabs.com/product_p/nmm-330.htm

 

[fishtk75]

Absolutely. Adding after a water change (if you go 4-6 weeks between changes) or once a month to once every two months is always a good regimen. Here is one of the best out there;
http://www.tsbiolabs.com/product_p/nmm-330.htm

Thanks, Is there and thing you do to also to for nitrates?

 

[unclejed2]

Thanks, Is there and thing you do to also to for nitrates?

My 55 gal. ran for a good year or so (I flipped my old one and added a sump) with 40 ppm. My LFS buddy suggested Halimeda. Since you have a fuge you could put it in there, I put it in the display, on one side. I didn't mind Green plants in the display plus it is non-intrusive. Nitrates went to 0 after about 2 weeks and never had detectable levels ever since. If you find some and want to add to fuge, don't bury the root ball, just let it rest on top of the substrate and cover just a little, it will grow down itself.

 

[fishtk75]

My 55 gal. ran for a good year or so (I flipped my old one and added a sump) with 40 ppm. My LFS buddy suggested Halimeda. Since you have a fuge you could put it in there, I put it in the display, on one side. I didn't mind Green plants in the display plus it is non-intrusive. Nitrates went to 0 after about 2 weeks and never had detectable levels ever since. If you find some and want to add to fuge, don't bury the root ball, just let it rest on top of the substrate and cover just a little, it will grow down itself.

Ok I have tried them but had not luck for them staying alive. They turn white and die for me.

 

[unclejed2]

Ok I have tried them but had not luck for them staying alive. They turn white and die for me.

Some of them go sexual, turn all white and die off. How long did you have them before they died? Also, they need fairly intense lighting and good flow.

 

[fishtk75]

Some of them go sexual, turn all white and die off. How long did you have them before they died? Also, they need fairly intense lighting and good flow.

Had them 3 weeks. Good flow yes. Light intense yes that making the algae grow fast. Someone said calcium needs to be good I have it at 420.

 

[seapug]

Halimeda consumes massive amounts of calcium. If you're looking to use macroalgae for nutrient uptake, Chaetomorpha is much better.

As far as bacteria supplementation goes, there's a growing body of scientific and hobbyist evidence suggesting that regular additions of bacteria and microbe cultures to both new and old reef tanks can be very beneficial. This is the basis of the "probiotic" methods that many people are using nowadays. The latest issue of Coral magazine has a good article about it if you're interested in learning more about it.