NOT again....

[fishyness]

I went through the whole tear down, hypo and run fallow due to ich. 2 separate tanks. I got an order today from LA and at least have learned to QT now. The original fish have been back in the DT for 8 days now. However today I see about 4 spots on my hippo. No one else. In just the one tank. I guess I will keep an eye, though I have before and lost fish. I still have the hospital tanks up in case another shows signs. How could it have lived through that?

 

[Stuart60611]

I went through the whole tear down, hypo and run fallow due to ich. 2 separate tanks. I got an order today from LA and at least have learned to QT now. The original fish have been back in the DT for 8 days now. However today I see about 4 spots on my hippo. No one else. In just the one tank. I guess I will keep an eye, though I have before and lost fish. I still have the hospital tanks up in case another shows signs. How could it have lived through that?

Hypo has a very slim margin for error. If your salinity does not stay constantly in a very narrow range and/or you do not maintain hypo long enough, ich survives. Any miscalibration of your refractometer can cause hypo not to work b/c you are not at the correct salinity. This is why I do not like the treatment. It is difficult to perform correctly.

 

[fishyness]

I kept it at 1.009-1.010
They showed no signs at all in hypo. I believe it wasnt killed in the DT completely. The other tank still shows no signs so I still believe in hypo, just not sure why this tank still has some....

 

[roktsintst]

How long did you do hypo and how long was the DT left fallow?

 

[gwhunter]

I'm not 100% convinced that hypo or copper kills ich completly. I've run copper for months strait at higher than recommended levels and hypo'd for equally as long a very hypo levels. All the while completly emptying the dt. Only with it return. I've also done strick QT on all new arrivals. I've found that good water chemistry an cleaner shrimp/wrasses an keeping stress to a mini seems to eliminate ich problems. Certain fish are just alot more prone to ich, and keeping tangs in small tanks is a sure fire way to see ich blossom.
Other's may disagree with my comments but I'm just sharing my experiances.

Matt

 

[fishyness]

5 weeks which should be enough.

 

[RBU1]

5 weeks which should be enough.

Well in my opinion a 5 week fallow period is not enough. More like 8 at a minimum most prefer 10 to 12. I would leave things alone, continue to QT and things should be fine.

 

[jt_milstead]

Yes 8 weeks minimum. 10-12 weeks recommended....

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

LOL Ich is extremely overrated! :lmao: Leave your tank alone and let nature take it's course. If you have good waterquality and feeding the fish well then you will see a complete reversal. Most people panick, QT, and then they have nothing but issues. My blue hippo and powderblue will get ich from time to time, but it will quickly go away. Check out my tank through my public profile. I got a ton of fish and will see ich come and go when I add new additions. You will never whip out ich I don't care who you hear this from, it's a complete fallacy. Ich will always be in your system no matter how careful you are with QT, dips, etc. I never dip my fish. It will usually do more harm than good, unless the fish really needs it. If it's a healthy fish, put him right on in! :thumbsup:

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

Well in my opinion a 5 week fallow period is not enough. More like 8 at a minimum most prefer 10 to 12. I would leave things alone, continue to QT and things should be fine.

Ahah we meet again! How is your crosshatches doing. Man are they some gorgeous fish..

 

[RBU1]

Ahah we meet again! How is your crosshatches doing. Man are they some gorgeous fish..

So far so good....Just picked up a nice small black tang yesterday. He is in my overated QT right now LOL:fun2:

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

Dude u gotta hook me up with one of your fish. :fish1: You buy the most expensive fish ever! Black tangs are really cool, I just picked up a powderblue a few weeks ago and he's doing great. My next fish is going to be an achilles tang! He's got that black to him with orange, I call him a halloween tang. Did you post any new pics? Shoot one my way of that black tang. Is he a baby or juvi?

QT tanks are really only for bacterial/fungal infections IMO People usually panick when they see a spot on there fish and go to unnecessary extremes. :hammer:

 

[RBU1]

Hard to get a pick he blends in to the background to good.

 

[bbnz]

LOL Ich is extremely overrated! :lmao: Leave your tank alone and let nature take it's course. If you have good waterquality and feeding the fish well then you will see a complete reversal. Most people panick, QT, and then they have nothing but issues. My blue hippo and powderblue will get ich from time to time, but it will quickly go away. Check out my tank through my public profile. I got a ton of fish and will see ich come and go when I add new additions. You will never whip out ich I don't care who you hear this from, it's a complete fallacy. Ich will always be in your system no matter how careful you are with QT, dips, etc. I never dip my fish. It will usually do more harm than good, unless the fish really needs it. If it's a healthy fish, put him right on in! :thumbsup:

Gotta agree here to a point. I've had all of my fish for quite some time (last one introduced 3 months ago) and all were fine with no signs of ick. I swapped tanks about 3 weeks ago (72-180) and everything transitioned well. I started to notice the white spots about 5 days ago on one of my clowns. Since then I have lost 3 fish. I can only conclude that the stress of moving them caused the outbreak. No new fish so QT wasn't an issue.

 

[ArtemisGoldfish]

I'm not 100% convinced that hypo or copper kills ich completly. I've run copper for months strait at higher than recommended levels and hypo'd for equally as long a very hypo levels. All the while completly emptying the dt. Only with it return. I've also done strick QT on all new arrivals. I've found that good water chemistry an cleaner shrimp/wrasses an keeping stress to a mini seems to eliminate ich problems. Certain fish are just alot more prone to ich, and keeping tangs in small tanks is a sure fire way to see ich blossom.
Other's may disagree with my comments but I'm just sharing my experiances.

Matt

1. Copper is effective. Hyposalinity is less effective due to hyposaline variants of Cryptocaryon.

2. It is physically impossible for cleaner shrimp or fish to remove Crypto from the fish. This would entail puncturing the fish itself.

3. You either dosed ineffectively or failed to quarantine properly.

Well in my opinion a 5 week fallow period is not enough. More like 8 at a minimum most prefer 10 to 12. I would leave things alone, continue to QT and things should be fine.

Agreed regarding 5 weeks. This is generally too short. It's better to think of the entire process mathematically. Each week will remove "x" amount of the threat.

6 to 8 weeks is the general rule of thumb. I've used 7+ and its worked well for what that's worth. Pushing it past 8 weeks is likely to only see aggregate changes in effectiveness IE 99.99999999 %. Fallowing your DT is the most efficient way to resolve the issue however the most you could acquire is the above percentage success rate.

LOL Ich is extremely overrated! Leave your tank alone and let nature take it's course. If you have good waterquality and feeding the fish well then you will see a complete reversal. Most people panick, QT, and then they have nothing but issues. My blue hippo and powderblue will get ich from time to time, but it will quickly go away. Check out my tank through my public profile. I got a ton of fish and will see ich come and go when I add new additions. You will never whip out ich I don't care who you hear this from, it's a complete fallacy. Ich will always be in your system no matter how careful you are with QT, dips, etc. I never dip my fish. It will usually do more harm than good, unless the fish really needs it. If it's a healthy fish, put him right on in!

This is dumb and the equivalent of saying you will never wipe (whip?) out tapeworms from your stomach. Cryptocaryon is a parasite. Without a host, it won't survive. Your mentality is what proliferates the mistreatment and death of marine animals.

Just because you don't physically see the parasite on your fish doesn't mean that it's not currently hosting in your fish's tissues. Since it's not such a big deal, do an autopsy on a marine animal that's died from organ failure or internal hemorhaging and then equate that to one of your animals.

QT tanks are really only for bacterial/fungal infections IMO People usually panick when they see a spot on there fish and go to unnecessary extremes

Good to know that your anecdotal advice somehow overrides every other expert's and accomplished marine biologist's scientifically backed data...

Simply put, quarantine everything prior to putting it into your display tank. If you can prevent a problem, you should do everything in your power to do so.
These aren't a box of Legos that can be replaced, they are animals and as such need to be treated ethically. That is the point of the hobby.

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

1. Copper is effective. Hyposalinity is less effective due to hyposaline variants of Cryptocaryon.

2. It is physically impossible for cleaner shrimp or fish to remove Crypto from the fish. This would entail puncturing the fish itself.

3. You either dosed ineffectively or failed to quarantine properly.



Agreed regarding 5 weeks. This is generally too short. It's better to think of the entire process mathematically. Each week will remove "x" amount of the threat.

6 to 8 weeks is the general rule of thumb. I've used 7+ and its worked well for what that's worth. Pushing it past 8 weeks is likely to only see aggregate changes in effectiveness IE 99.99999999 %. Fallowing your DT is the most efficient way to resolve the issue however the most you could acquire is the above percentage success rate.



This is dumb and the equivalent of saying you will never wipe (whip?) out tapeworms from your stomach. Cryptocaryon is a parasite. Without a host, it won't survive. Your mentality is what proliferates the mistreatment and death of marine animals.

Just because you don't physically see the parasite on your fish doesn't mean that it's not currently hosting in your fish's tissues. Since it's not such a big deal, do an autopsy on a marine animal that's died from organ failure or internal hemorhaging and then equate that to one of your animals.



Good to know that your anecdotal advice somehow overrides every other expert's and accomplished marine biologist's scientifically backed data...

Simply put, quarantine everything prior to putting it into your display tank. If you can prevent a problem, you should do everything in your power to do so.
These aren't a box of Legos that can be replaced, they are animals and as such need to be treated ethically. That is the point of the hobby.

LMAO look who we have here..the know it all fish doctor! :lol: Hey everyone if you have a question don't bother asking people on Reefcentral go straight to this guy, he has all the answers! :fun2: I hate people like you who troll around with a stick up their *** who think they can critic peoples post and try to degrade them.

How low can you get, honestly. Reefcentral is an online community where people come together to discuss their views/experiences not to depict others. I'll have to give it to you...you seem like a cocky big time joke! Get over yourself, for the sake of all of us!! :clown:

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

1. Copper is effective. Hyposalinity is less effective due to hyposaline variants of Cryptocaryon.

2. It is physically impossible for cleaner shrimp or fish to remove Crypto from the fish. This would entail puncturing the fish itself.

3. You either dosed ineffectively or failed to quarantine properly.



Agreed regarding 5 weeks. This is generally too short. It's better to think of the entire process mathematically. Each week will remove "x" amount of the threat.

6 to 8 weeks is the general rule of thumb. I've used 7+ and its worked well for what that's worth. Pushing it past 8 weeks is likely to only see aggregate changes in effectiveness IE 99.99999999 %. Fallowing your DT is the most efficient way to resolve the issue however the most you could acquire is the above percentage success rate.



This is dumb and the equivalent of saying you will never wipe (whip?) out tapeworms from your stomach. Cryptocaryon is a parasite. Without a host, it won't survive. Your mentality is what proliferates the mistreatment and death of marine animals.

Just because you don't physically see the parasite on your fish doesn't mean that it's not currently hosting in your fish's tissues. Since it's not such a big deal, do an autopsy on a marine animal that's died from organ failure or internal hemorhaging and then equate that to one of your animals.



Good to know that your anecdotal advice somehow overrides every other expert's and accomplished marine biologist's scientifically backed data...

Simply put, quarantine everything prior to putting it into your display tank. If you can prevent a problem, you should do everything in your power to do so.
These aren't a box of Legos that can be replaced, they are animals and as such need to be treated ethically. That is the point of the hobby.

I can assure you that all my fish are very healthy and have not had problems like you are assuming.

Honestly, you seem like an inexperience novice who is all talk and has nothing to back up, besides your goldfish! :lolspin:

Here's my tank: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1864829

Now how bout yours?

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

Simply put, quarantine everything prior to putting it into your display tank. If you can prevent a problem, you should do everything in your power to do so.
These aren't a box of Legos that can be replaced, they are animals and as such need to be treated ethically. That is the point of the hobby.

HAHAHAHAHA I was just looking you up and it appears as if you have 2 months in the hobby. You have some nerve calling people out when you barely have any posts or experience for that matter! You got a lot to learn, that's for sure! :uzi::uzi:

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

Simply put, quarantine everything prior to putting it into your display tank. If you can prevent a problem, you should do everything in your power to do so.
These aren't a box of Legos that can be replaced, they are animals and as such need to be treated ethically. That is the point of the hobby.

I never had this happen to me ArtemisGoldielox: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1842094 A standing ovation to the fish doc! :wavehand:

Sorry, fishyness I didn't intend to write this all onto your thread, but this guy needed a wake up call. I hope you understand.

I wish you the best with your tank and if you have any questions I'd love to help you out. I know how frustrating some things can be, but if your patient I'm sure everything will work out for you. Good luck buddy!

 

[SaltwaterAdict]

Hard to get a pick he blends in to the background to good.

RBU1 man does that look like a beauty. I'm jealous. Does you lfs get those guys in often? I hardly ever see them around here. Please snap a pic when you place him into the DT. thanks, Tim