Octopus Skimmer Mods

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11317208#post11317208 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
Sound like one of two things....
1) The GG is too large in diameter or rubbing. Check to make sure that the GG is the same diameter as the NW, and that it is not rubbing on the volute cover.
2) The pump is getting too much water/not enough air. The Watts will go up when the pump is working too hard (duh?)...If you bored out the elbow a lot and didn't add any new restriction (ie the 1/4" barb fitting going into the elbow (reference my pics on pg4)) the pump could just be pulling too much water.

Do you have any pics of the venturi/elbow mod that you did? If so, post them so we can see what might be wrong.


Sorry JCTewks no pics but if you look at you post on page 4 my mods are almost identical except I use GG instead of enkamat.

I check the gutter guard and it ends at or before the needlewheel and doesn't rub on anything. The mess job is actually pretty tight and neat.

My venturi is 1/4" id and looks almost exactly like yours (page 4) and I am running at 44w consistently. Just for kicks I put a spare stock needlewheel impellar in and the watts actually went up to 48ish because the stock one pulled less air (the pump also had a hard time even sucking air through my 1/4" line). I also put an impellar in that had both rows of needles and one row of GG, this ran about 46w.

The pump is a little warm but certainly doesn't run hot especially considering it isn't submerged. I'm not sure what is an acceptable amount over the rated wattage.

I guess I am going to have to invest in an airflow meter to see what I am actually pulling. Assuming I an pulling a good SCFH for this set up and the watts are at 44 what else could I do to get the watts down? Thanks
 
IME, the watts are lower using the mesh than they are using GG. I've used both, as well as some other scrubberpads. When using mesh, I've found that smaller diameter and thicker is better as long as you aren't rubbing.

Does the end of your venturi that goes into the elbow go all the way through and touch the otherside of the pipe? High water flow will give you high watts...air is easier to move than water. You could always try restricting the output just a tad with a rubber washer or something. Less flow will mean less watts, but at the expense of airflow.

I'm just going to go in the dark and say that your SCFH is prob not that high if you are at 44watts. mine is currently pulling 8scfh at 29 watts with just one layer of mesh inbetween the two NW's. Really the key is the venturi...finding the sweet spot where there is enough restriction to get good air draw, but not so much restriction that the pump cavitates. I say check your venturi and see if it could use any redoing.

Where are you located?
 
kl3377 - What pump is on your NW110? From what I can tell, it has the OTP1000 pump on it, which is supposed to be running at 18watts. My 3 OTP2000 pumps (rated at 38watts) pull 29 watts stock and 34 watts with two layers of mesh and the original needles in tack.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11333623#post11333623 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pogodzib
kl3377 - What pump is on your NW110? From what I can tell, it has the OTP1000 pump on it, which is supposed to be running at 18watts. My 3 OTP2000 pumps (rated at 38watts) pull 29 watts stock and 34 watts with two layers of mesh and the original needles in tack.

Ofcourse its going to pull more wattage like that. Its pulling more weight! You need to take a row of NW off and then add the mesh. More weight = more wattage. Less weight and more air = lower wattage.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11320946#post11320946 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by luke33
just sayin if they really wanted to make a better skimmer they should have enlarged the neck and added a different pump. .....but there's that darn 3.5" neck.......errrr

yeah, it's kinda like these guys dont own any reef tanks or something, because they keep perpetually making the same mistakes over and over, ie; the plumbing, the neck diameter, the pump, that stupid, stupid venturi they've been using for 2+ years now.

you think they'ed come on here and read what customers think/want of their skimmers, and what we do to them to make them work worth a crap. if i was a skimmer manufacturer, i sure as hell would, i'd be on you guys like glue!

but all in all, they do work good after modification, and they are cheap, so people keep buying them. somehow i think the chinese are happy with that, and feel they dont need to do anything else.
im sure people have tried to email them with suggestions...;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11335128#post11335128 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by koraltek
yeah, it's kinda like these guys dont own any reef tanks or something, because they keep perpetually making the same mistakes over and over, ie; the plumbing, the neck diameter, the pump, that stupid, stupid venturi they've been using for 2+ years now.

you think they'ed come on here and read what customers think/want of their skimmers, and what we do to them to make them work worth a crap. if i was a skimmer manufacturer, i sure as hell would, i'd be on you guys like glue!

but all in all, they do work good after modification, and they are cheap, so people keep buying them. somehow i think the chinese are happy with that, and feel they dont need to do anything else.
im sure people have tried to email them with suggestions...;)

That's why you are seeing two new and comletely different skimmers here! The Coralvue Extreme is just the same old design flaws with a new bubbleplate...i'm sure that it will still work, but not really any progress. The SWC Xtreme is an entirely different skimmer that is actuall designed well...and once they hit the market, their perfoemance should show that!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11333623#post11333623 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pogodzib
kl3377 - What pump is on your NW110? From what I can tell, it has the OTP1000 pump on it, which is supposed to be running at 18watts. My 3 OTP2000 pumps (rated at 38watts) pull 29 watts stock and 34 watts with two layers of mesh and the original needles in tack.
'

Yes, it's the OTP1000. I have not had one yet that will actually run at or near 18 watts, even stock!
 
JCTewks, I am beginning to think my watt meter (Reliance Controls) is a POS or I am not using it right. I tested a MJ600 in the sink that should be 7.5w and it read 11w. In some of the meter info I found a side note that says to plug it in to a 15A outlet, many of my circuit breakers are 20A, not sure if this could be affecting my numbers.

The venturi goes all the way across the elbow and is the same general shape in your picture. The skimmer is actually working well, I may have to pick up a flow meter to see where I am at. What specs should the flow meter have for this purpose?

I am in NH.

Thanks for the help.
 
Pogodzib,
I am running a Sealine SL-6520 rated at 32w (running at 44) and also have the original OTP1000 that is rated at 18w. Both pumps have had the same mods done to them . The impellar I am running now has 1 layer of original needles and two layers of gutter guard. I think I am going to try 1 layer of GG with one row of needles on my spare impellar and pop it in and see what happens to the watts. I still think my meter might be part of the problem.
Thanks
 
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/SeriesRMPrice.cfm#CRA

I would at least get a 5" scale meter (RMB series). I like the SS valve on mine. The cheaper 2" (RMA) meters add too much rectriction when you hook it up to the skimmer and the readings are low. A 10" would be better (RMC series) but they are pricey. I have rthe RMB 52 SSV. Remember that these are all airflow meters to measure the amount of air being drawn into the skimmer. It is difficult to get an accurate reading of water flow from the pump on a recirc skimmer.

THe fact that your meter is hooked up to a 20 amp main circuit will not effect your readings. Does your meter have volts/A/VA/PF/watts? If so what are all of those #'s?
 
I wonder if it is reading VA (voltage amps = volts x amps) or RMS wattage (volts x amps x Power factor = RMS wattage). If it is reading 44watts VA then you are fine as the RMS wattage is prob less than 25. Get a kill-a-watt meter and it will tell you all of that :)
 
Just got my NW-200 in from marinesolutions and to my surprise, it has a 2 1/4" needlewheel. :dance:

Hopefully this is the old pump. I got a RMB-52-SSV on the way so I can see what I am pulling.

Drilled the venturi to 11/64" while retaining the elbow, bored the elbow to skimmer to 5/8", and did some mild porting on the volute. Next is to get a kill-a-watt and some enkamat.
 
Okay I tested the meter to a 60w incandescent bulb in the same outlet my pump is plugged in to, it read 58w.
I also spent the whole day Sat. screwing around with the venturi and spare needlewheel for a slight 1w improvement. At this point I am just going to let it run and keep an eye on it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11346359#post11346359 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kl3377
Okay I tested the meter to a 60w incandescent bulb in the same outlet my pump is plugged in to, it read 58w.
I also spent the whole day Sat. screwing around with the venturi and spare needlewheel for a slight 1w improvement. At this point I am just going to let it run and keep an eye on it.

:lol::lol: Sometimes you just have to throw in the towel and sleep on it for a few days :D
 
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