OK I actually need advice, not views, PLEASE

ReefKnot

ReefKnot

New member
So I been reading about ricordea's and alot of websites say low to medium light, but I've come across something that happens to ricordea yumas fairly often. After the first 2-3 weeks, they melt. So I looked that up, and there is a process of light acclimation that is recommended. I understand that part, I just need to know if my lighting is going to be enough or too much, and some real advice on how to get them properly acclimated to my tank. Theres way too many different opinions on every site. Can someone PLEASE just give me their 2 cents?

I have a 29g, 18" tall, lights are 4" above surface. I'm running a 4x24w T5HO, 2 10k and 2 420/460 Actinic. I've got a good sized column of rock on the left, with shelves, which I plan to tuck the rics under until they start looking for light.

Also about flow, I've got quite a bit, so I thought I might cut back a bit, I know 40x gph of flow is probably a bit much for ricordeas. Can anyone give me a ball park number to aim at?

I could really use some advice, can anyone help?
 
well since I viewed it I may as well give what advice I can.
Start them off under the overhang as you said you planned to do. or at least on the sand bed. and observe if they are stretching for more light move them into more light, but still on the bed.
as for current, mine have never shown any adverse effects either way.
 
I have a 2x2x2 60g with the same light setup and bulb configuration, mine is from AquaticLife and I just purchased a rock with some ricordea on it, perhaps 4 weeks ago. My light sits on top of the tank, maybe 2 inches from the surface and I sat the rock on the bottom, the tank at the LFS only had NO lights, so the color was faded to say the least. Over the past couple of weeks the color has changed to a nice orange with blue and bright green mouth, several have also split. I have no intention on moving them up any higher and they do not appear to be lacking in light. As for flow, I have an mp10, evo 750 and 300gph return, that does not seem to bother them either. I guess I should mention the light schedule is 420/460 on at 8am off at 8pm with the 10k on at 9am and off at 5pm. I also keep acans, favites, brains, enchinos, zoa's, mushrooms and chalice all seem to be fine with the light, I replaced a 150w MH with 2 T5's for the AquaticLife unit.
 
For starters if you switch one of your 10k bulbs to an ATI actinic or pure actinic (purple) you'll get much better coloration overall and your yumas will do a lot better as well. I start acclimating all yumas in a dark cave where they're only getting a small amount of ambient light. From there I slllloooooowwwwlllly move them out to the sandbed and that's where they stay for a minimum of 1 month. If they look iffy it's right back in the cave for at least a week. After that I usually just leave them on the sand bed.

People who have their yumas melt had 90% of the time given them too much light, the other 10% of the time their LFS gave them too much light.
 
organism said:
For starters if you switch one of your 10k bulbs to an ATI actinic or pure actinic (purple) you'll get much better coloration overall and your yumas will do a lot better as well. I start acclimating all yumas in a dark cave where they're only getting a small amount of ambient light. From there I slllloooooowwwwlllly move them out to the sandbed and that's where they stay for a minimum of 1 month. If they look iffy it's right back in the cave for at least a week. After that I usually just leave them on the sand bed.

People who have their yumas melt had 90% of the time given them too much light, the other 10% of the time their LFS gave them too much light.
Click to expand...

First off, Thanks everyone who gave their input, really helped reassure me.


Organism, You mean I should run 3 actinics and one 10k? I already have 2, and I do have more than just these ricordeas; a fair number of zoas. I dont mind doing it, but if I can avoid buying a bulb, for a minor increase, I probably will....

If it will really help, I'll go pick one up.

And one other thing, if ANYONE reads this can give me a "ballpark figure", it would really be appreciated.... How much total flow should I be aiming for? Either __x times or _____ gph for a 29g

I think I have a bit too much..... 40x is a bit steep right?
 
How are you coming up with the figure of 40x turnover?

As far as bulbs it all depends on what you like, what brand do you currently use? Personally I like the bluer look where colors pop so much you can see them from across the room, and the good news with t5's is that you can get both a nice blue tank and great growth since ATI actinic bulbs have high par. My favorite combo (and everyone's got their own) is 3 ATI blue plus with 1 ATI aquablue special. I had a 4x24w fixture over a mixed reef solana, the acros and montis grew fast with amazing colors along with the LPS and softies.
 
Cool, I will look into bulbs, I'd love to get rid of those whites and replace with blues, or even just leave one 10k white.....

Anyway about the flow, I'm new so please correct me if I'm wrong with this equation.... You add up everything that generates flow in your tank, then divide by your volume right? I've got 2 koralia nano 240's, a Penguin 200 HOB filter, and a reef octopus BH-2000 which puts out 500gph..... added all up totals 1180 gph/29 gallons equals 40 and a bit.... I had gotten that equipment before I started planning to go for a ricordea/zoa tank.... If that number is wrong, what is my flow rate at? and what should it be at?

I have no problem removing a powerhead, as I'm thinking about starting another small tank, and I'll just stick it in there.... so yeah, whats your advice on flow?
 
Keep in mind that flow isn't just a turnover rate. A power head pointed directly on a ricordea versus one pointed at the glass wall and spilling out to the ricordea are different, as far as the ricordea is concerned. But they're the same flow rate, as far as the power head is concerned.

Jeff
 
jeff@zina.com said:
Keep in mind that flow isn't just a turnover rate. A power head pointed directly on a ricordea versus one pointed at the glass wall and spilling out to the ricordea are different, as far as the ricordea is concerned. But they're the same flow rate, as far as the power head is concerned.

Jeff
Click to expand...

So how much should I have going in there? Obviously I wont have the powerheads directly pointing at the ricordea, after everyone telling me low flow, that was be stupid..... You didn't answer my question though
 
I personally don't think you can go by some turnover number for your tank. Its all about the flow in the specific location the coral is placed. You could have 40x or 400x and still keep ricordea happy. What I found helpful was to look at videos and watch how corals move in the flow, then try to replicate that movement in my tank.

As for the bulbs, replacing a couple of my stock bulbs with ati blue + really did wonders for my corals coloration and growth.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
ReefKnot said:
You didn't answer my question though
Click to expand...
The answer, unfortunately, isn't an answer. You asked for a ballpark number to aim at for flow. Unless you can measure flow rate in a chaotic environment at a specific point, there is no number to aim for. There is no magic turnover rate, which is what the numbers being tossed around indicate, that directly equates to a specific flow rate.

In every tank, no matter how many times you turn over the water in the tank, there can, and often will, be stagnant areas. If you put your ricordea in a stagnant area, it doesn't matter what the turnover rate is, the water is still stagnant. Although you could measure a laminar flow, a flow which passes in a straight line, that's one of the worst flows for any coral. You want turbulence, or flow that changes direction. As flow on a reef would do.

The only way to find ideal flow in your specific tank is to test. Move the ricordea or change the flow. Keep in mind that lighting will also change as you move corals around. When you find the place in the tank where they do best, leave them.

Jeff
 
I am reading so hear is my reply....

I aim for enough flow so there is no stagnant sections in my tank. If you have any cyano on your sandbed you do not have enough flow imo. If your sand is blowing all over it is too much obviously. A lot also depends on how you have your rocks setup. I would say 40x turnover is fine. Certainly should not cause a ricordia to melt.

What are you levels testing at? Can you put up a photo? What type of powehead/pump are you currently using? Do you have multiples powerheads????
 
K thanks guys, sorry Jeff, I didn't mean to sound rude, I've just had so many people telling me I need a certain number for flow when I started thinking about adding corals, I got a bit confused. I'm going to move my set up around a bit, when I get those corals tomorrow, until I find something that works. (Doing this safely)

Organism: I'm looking at t5ho bulbs online, Where can I find ATI Bulbs? My LFS doesn't have them, but thats not surprising, as I live in a small city, hence a small LFS. Also are there any other kinds of bulbs that are decent? I'm not really looking for top of the line,
and so how would you rank Giesemann, UVL, Corallife, and Hagen?

Thanks everyone
 
I've used most of the ones you listed and ATI's beat them all by a long shot, I got them from a local vendor though so I'm not sure which shops carry them. I hear KZ bulbs are great too but no personal experience there. Either way, considering it's 18 months until you replace them the investment on 4 24w bulbs is well worth it.

As far as flow, if your sand isn't flying around then you're good.
 
Thanks Organism.

My sand is not flying, and the flow is pretty random.

As for bulbs, I do have another question: ATI isn't easily available in Canada, from what I can find, although I could be mistaken. But I can easily get Giesemann and UVL. Giesemann is about $6 more each. I dont mind spending that little bit of extra on the bulbs, unless there is little difference. Did you find that the Giesemann were that much better to be worth the extra 12 bucks?
 
ReefKnot said:
Did you find that the Giesemann were that much better to be worth the extra 12 bucks?
Click to expand...

Before I replaced my giesemanns for ATI's I did a side by side comparison in the fixture and the difference was big enough for me to replace all of the bulbs the next day :)
 
I ended up going with the Giesemann Aquablue Plus and Pure Actinic.... I was placing an order on the same site anyway.... Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll be posting more questions once I've got my coral order tomorrow.... and the bulbs should be here thursday, so I'm hoping to make the transition while the ricordeas are undercover.
 
ReefKnot said:
Where can I find ATI Bulbs? My LFS doesn't have them...
Click to expand...
Most LFS buy from a distributor, usually a single distributor, and are limited to the bulbs carried by them. I order ATI bulbs online, many of the sponsors here carry them. Get in on a group by, such as those at Bulk Reef Supply (Check the sponsor forums) for the best price.

Geismanns are as good as ATI, some might argue they're better. CoralLife are average.

Jeff
 
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