OK I have a few Questions about ICH treatment

[clittrell]

I have a 58 Gallon Reef setup with a Hippo Tang that gets Ich any time I add any new fish to the tank. I am currently adding a "reef safe" Med to the tank and he is showing less white spots. From all of the reading I am doing it seem he is not really getting rid of the Ich just not showing signs. Feeling that I am not doing the right thing I am in the process of setting up a QT tank. A 29 with a external filter. My questions are these...

1. Should I start the QT even though the fish are looking better? By the time I get the QT setup I think most of the spots will be gone. I have Reed enough to know they are not really gone. Do I need to wait for the next outbreak or can I start the process with out any signs and just run treatment for 4 weeks.

2. If I take all the fish in the tank out and let the tank go without fish for 8 weeks the tank will not have ICH, Correct?

2. If I treat the QT with Hypo or Cupermine for 4 weeks and then wait 4 more weeks to watch the fish the fish will not have Ich, Correct? I get a lot of different answers to this one because the fish is a tang.

3. I put the fish back in the DT. NO ich in the DT as long as I QT going forward I should not ever get ICH again?

4. Do people like Hypo or Cupermine better?

5. Can I add Coral to the DT during the 8 weeks of no fish?

Thanks,

 

[sfboarders]

1 Ich comes and goes. Sometimes you'll see it and sometimes you don't. it's part of the lifecycle. You don't need to see the ich to treat. If you've seen it already it's in your tank. If you have fish in your tank it will always be there.

2. Leave fishless for at least 8 weeks. The lifecycle of ich will be killed with no host.

3. Yes. QT all your fish before you put them in DT. I always eradicate for ich.

4. Personal preference. Both have it's pros and cons. I have personally done hypo with success. Keeping pH stable is a PITA though. New treatment called quinine sulphate I have had success with. Will kill your biological filtration though with this treatment so its important that you have well cycled medium.

5. It's best to QT everything. I guess if you leave your tank fishless 8 weeks after you add your last coral I guess that can work.

Good luck with your treatment.

 

[RBU1]

1 Ich comes and goes. Sometimes you'll see it and sometimes you don't. it's part of the lifecycle. You don't need to see the ich to treat. If you've seen it already it's in your tank. If you have fish in your tank it will always be there.

2. Leave fishless for at least 8 weeks. The lifecycle of ich will be killed with no host.

3. Yes. QT all your fish before you put them in DT. I always eradicate for ich.

4. Personal preference. Both have it's pros and cons. I have personally done hypo with success. Keeping pH stable is a PITA though. New treatment called quinine sulphate I have had success with. Will kill your biological filtration though with this treatment so its important that you have well cycled medium.

5. It's best to QT everything. I guess if you leave your tank fishless 8 weeks after you add your last coral I guess that can work.

Good luck with your treatment.

Agree with everything. But I think the fallow period of your main tank should be 12 weks to be safe. Thats 12 weeks from the last time you add anything to the tank. So if you add a snail, coral anything wet wait 12 weeks from that point.

I also prefer cupramine over hypo. The tricks with copper in my opinion are
1.) ADD IT SLOW and test between each dose
2.) Keep it at the proper range or it will not work. .5 for Cupramine for 4 weeks....

Good Luck...

 

[NirvanaFan]

I agree with what the others have said. Whether you do copper or hypo should depend on what fish you have in your tank. What do you have?

Go at least 8 weeks fishless without adding anything else to your tank. It is possible for corals, snails, etc to carry ich on the shells if the ich is in that part of it's life cycle. To be truly safe, you could qt everything, or do like most people do and just do fish.

 

[clittrell]

Re: OK I have a few Questions about ICH treatment

I have 3 small tangs, 2 banji cardinal and a dimond gobe.

Thanks,

Chris


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[slief]

I am now in a similar boat.. I have a 500 gallon + system with a few corals and a couple anemones. I have about 45 fish and a number of them have come down with ich in the last week or 2... I am in a bit of a panic over this.

My aquascape consists of hundreds of pounds of live rock glued together so removing it is not an option. I could setup another tank if I had to for the corals and anemones but the thought of adding copper to my system scares the hell out of me.

Will copper kill off all the micro life and backteria in my rocks?? Is copper easily removed without replacing all the water after treatment so I can add my corals and stuff back in?


All fish are eating real well and I add Garlic to the food as well. I have been treating for the last week with Kick Ich but I forgot to turn off my carbon reactor so I think it was a waste of solution. I have also heard mixed reviews of Kick Ich so I am not optimistic about the stuff.

If all the fish are eating well, what are the chances of this stuff clearing up on its own?

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.. I was going to be pulling my wetdry out and adding a new sump and refugium in the next week but now I am rethinking that due to the ich outbreak.