Okay LED experts... I need help. :)

[Coelli]

I'm not starting anything yet but the wheels are spinning.

I recently bought a Biocube 29 that had a Nanotuners 5.6 LED retro in the hood. The kit has a 3-channel controller for dimming each of 3 sets of LEDs. Right now I just have the intensity set through the sliders on the controller and have each channel plugged into a separate outlet on the EB8 for basic on/off timers.

Nanotuners is out of business, but using the Wayback machine I was able to find this much on their website:

Featuring Cree Dies, the use of 6 x 3w Edison Opto emitters provides compelling amounts of luminous flux, while maintaining great CRI. We've ordered the modules in Cool White (Bin Info) - Royal Blue (Bin Info) and a custom made 50/50 mix of 3 x Cool White and 3 x Royal Blue (Bin Info). The MCPCB design and Nanocustoms quick disconnect interfacing make installing this retrokit a breeze. Apply thermal paste, mount the MCPCBs, and plug them into the wiring harness. No Soldering Required!!!

570 Lumens @ 350mA per 6 LED module (approx 1140 Lumens @ 700mA)

Meanwell 700mA Drivers

We'd like to take credit for these reliable, robust drivers, but the credit belongs to a well-known lighting company, Meanwell USA.

I *think* this is what I have; I know the OP paid about $500 for the kit and the dies do say Edison Opto), but I'm not sure how to verify. I have 2 strips of 6x RB (one channel), 2 strips of 6x CW (another channel), and 1 strip of 4x RB and 2x CW (third channel).

If it means anything, the controller is called a Trio 700. I really wish I could identify what the actual specs are on everything.

Although I eventually want to upgrade to a full spectrum LED set (which is a whole other project - I'd like to use the existing heat sink and fans, and I really would like to not have to butcher the Biocube's hood), do you think there is there a way for now to use the existing drivers and LEDs and get them hooked up to an Apex VDM? Or is it even worth it?

Thanks in advance for any input!

 

[oreo57]

I'm not starting anything yet but the wheels are spinning.

I recently bought a Biocube 29 that had a Nanotuners 5.6 LED retro in the hood. The kit has a 3-channel controller for dimming each of 3 sets of LEDs. Right now I just have the intensity set through the sliders on the controller and have each channel plugged into a separate outlet on the EB8 for basic on/off timers.

Nanotuners is out of business, but using the Wayback machine I was able to find this much on their website:



I *think* this is what I have; I know the OP paid about $500 for the kit and the dies do say Edison Opto), but I'm not sure how to verify. I have 2 strips of 6x RB (one channel), 2 strips of 6x CW (another channel), and 1 strip of 4x RB and 2x CW (third channel).

If it means anything, the controller is called a Trio 700. I really wish I could identify what the actual specs are on everything.

Although I eventually want to upgrade to a full spectrum LED set (which is a whole other project - I'd like to use the existing heat sink and fans, and I really would like to not have to butcher the Biocube's hood), do you think there is there a way for now to use the existing drivers and LEDs and get them hooked up to an Apex VDM? Or is it even worth it?

Thanks in advance for any input!

I'd just open it.. Drivers should be labelled..
this is a duo but trio I assume would be somewhat identical..
http://youtu.be/IR_32AUGJfo

Doesn't yours have the 10V "port"?? apex 0-10V should just plug in..

 

[Coelli]

I'd just open it.. Drivers should be labelled..
this is a duo but trio I assume would be somewhat identical..
http://youtu.be/IR_32AUGJfo

Doesn't yours have the 10V "port"?? apex 0-10V should just plug in..

Holy smokes, does it? I'll have to look!!

 

[oreo57]

Holy smokes, does it? I'll have to look!!

You'll find it..........

The new LED driver box from NanoCustoms is the most ballingest thing to happen to lighting enclosures for reef aquariums this decade. Using only the highest quality Thomas Research LED drivers, the unibody LED driver is the flagship enclosure from NanoCustoms which brings a lot more functionality than we’ve seen in the past. Sliding potentiometers for fine adjustments of the LED power, triple rocker switch on each LED channel allows you to switch between adjustable, off and on modes with each channel also rocking it’s own 0-10v external control input.

We don’t even have to mention the unibody construction, integrated fan power source and uber solid CNC milled box should be an investment that lasts for years to come. The NanoCustoms LED driver box will come in three iterations, Uno, Duo and Trio with either a 700 or 1000mA current rating to run your LEDs at either two watts or three watts each. The pricing on all six models should be formally announced very soon. Presumably the unibody LED driver box will be the perfect compliment to those sexy unibody LED reef lights that NanoCustoms has been perfecting for the better part of 9 months. Demo video after the break.

 

[Coelli]

You'll find it..........

Oh, I am SUCH an idiot! I had seen the input jacks but never actually registered them and sure enough, they are all labeled 0-10v. :facepalm: You just saved me from a ton of unnecessary and probably frustrating work.

Of course now I have to spring for a VDM and 3 cables... and there are only 4 ports on the VDM and I wanted to add 2 WP10s... argh.

 

[Coelli]

Of course now the wheels are spinning even more - depending on the drivers maybe I can swap out for new LEDs that are closer to a full spectrum mix and use the old heat sink and controller. *ponder*

 

[Krazie4Acans]

The apex base unit has 4 VarSpd outlets on it so adding a single VDM will give you 8 total. That should be more than enough for 3 channels of LED and 2 pumps. Krazie :jester:

 

[Coelli]

Awesome. I didn't realize each port could control two channels. Thanks!! Clearly I need to get to know my hardware a little better... :facepalm:

Just to follow up, I emailed RapidLED and have to say they are totally awesome in how fast they respond and how willing they are to work with you.

I opened the controller and it turns out I don't have Mean Well drivers, I have three Thomas Research Products TRC-040S070DS 700mA drivers. Based on this and the desire to be closer to full spectrum, RapidLED recommended I replace just the middle strip (currently 4 RB, 2 CW) with 4 UV, 1 red, and one green, the last two being placed together.

So based on that, I'd have 12x RB, 12x CW, 4 UV, 1 red, 1 green.

The strips would go from right to left - 6CW, 6RB, 6Mix, 6RB, 6CW

Any thoughts/advice on this...? If money allows I may replace the other strips in the future but for now this would set me back about $40 including the lenses and thermal adhesive. Thanks!!

 

[Coelli]

Just wanted to follow up in case anyone else with a Nanotuners setup runs into the same thing. I ordered 1 green, 1 red, 2 400-410nm, and 2 410-420nm (had no idea what the difference was so I decided to split the difference and get two of each). They also had a "Dimmable Onyx to Apex/VDM Wire" cable that has two RJ45/3 mono plugs that should work perfectly with the controller. The Onyx fixture has a mix that's very close to what I'll end up with, though my balance will be a little more on the blue side which is okay. My total came in to just under $60, which is significantly less than buying a completely new light system.

I did not order any optics; my current setup doesn't have any, and the lights are so close to the water and the tank is so shallow that they didn't seem necessary.

I have to give a massive shout out to RapidLED for answering all of my questions (often within minutes), and when I sent my final list of what I thought I should be buying pointed out a couple of things I missed. Really outstanding customer service so far and I'm really looking forward to getting the new LEDs in and everything hooked up to my Apex.

 

[ghellin]

I would recommend using higher binning neutral whites rather than a red and green. You will get significantly better blended color. One red and green on non independantly dimmable channels tend to look like a disco light.

 

[Coelli]

I would recommend using higher binning neutral whites rather than a red and green. You will get significantly better blended color. One red and green on non independantly dimmable channels tend to look like a disco light.

Thankfully they will be on a dimmable channel! I'll have one channel with RB, one channel CW, and one channel with the UV/R/G.