Opinions on float valves

Limpit

Limpit

Happy Reefer
Premium Member
I need to get a couple of float valves for a new project I want to do.
Looking at the F&S catalog they have 3 different brands and am wondering if anyone knew the pro's and con's of the 3 different ones.

They list:
Kent Marine @ $19.99
Coralife Pure-Flo II Float & Shutoff Valve @ $17.59
Laguna Float Valve @ $9.99

The Kent and the Coralife LOOK the same and the Coralife comes with a shutoff, tubing and fittings. I don't need the shutoff and tubing but could store them in my large box of junk for a while!
The Laguna is made for pond use but could be made to fit.
I don't want a float that will be troublesome.

Opinions??? Other source??? Brand???
 
I'm going to tag along on this one too.

The Pure-Flo II is a great deal $$ wise as I payed $15 for my auto shutoff alone and a spare could always come in handy! For the price you have to question the quality though.

You see alot of the Kent float valves being used, but don't know if that is good or bad?

http://autotopoff.com has some nice stuff if you are looking to do single of dual levels with a solenoid.
 
I've have only used the Kent Marine but it's been in use on my 125 for the last 8 years witout any problems at all. I hope this is helpful.
Cheers,
Steve
 
I have one of those ATO units on my multi tank set up and it works well.
I am thinking about building a gravity fed auto top off that would feed several tanks. Thats why I am looking for the valves.
I did find just the float valve made by Coralife for $8.49 at Big Al's.
They also list the Kent float as being "heavy duty" maybe for higher presure applications.
 
I have kent marine on my top off reservoir and am happy with it. It keeps my basement from filling up with water when I forget to shut off the RO unit.
 
Ron, I have several of the Kent's and I like em... I was going to do the same gravity fed system above the 75 gal prop tank in the basement. I was also eyeing up the large float and valve in the toilet isle at home depot though - trying to find a way to use something not made out of cheap plastic.

I like my Kent valves, don't get me wrong, on one occasion in the last 1.25 years of service, I had to use a stick to break the float and shing arm free, as KALK or salt creep had gritted up the swing arm pivot. and the tank was still filling. Now that was an isolated incident, but it always makes me worry.

That's WHY mine is on a timer. So there is no way it can overfill and dillute the salt. We really didn't get a chance to talk about why the other day.

J

DAN! Your back! Good to see you flipped out the "Jack" for the float - I remember your disaster like it was just 9-10 months ago.

A word of caution for those following along... a float is only 1/2 of the story on an ro, you also need the solinoid to not harm the ro. At least that's what I was told.

I have also been of the opinion that running ro for short durations, then off, there is a growing opinion of "membrane creep" which is the crud slipping past your ro membrane. it seems recommended to DISCARD the first 1/2 hour of product water when making a larger quantity. This is where I beleive my phosphate is comming from. and that is why I am adding a larger gravity fed res as well.

J (again)
 
Ron,
I use two of the Kent Marine units, they are very simple dependable and easy to install. I use them on my RO water reservoir and have valves on them to shut off the supply when filled. I then use a top off system for the tank fed by the small reservoir “ kind of a failsafe system” The only draw back that I could see is the float is a bit big and would take up quit a bit of space in a sump.
 
Jason

I like the idea of having the system on a timer with a normally closed solenoid, you don't see enough people adding this redundancy. No matter how good the mechanical or electrical float valve, if it is not properly maintained you run the risk of dumping an unlimited bucket of water somewhere. Having a mechanical disconnect away from the saltwater is the way to go.

How are you getting 'membrane creep' though a .00001 (give or take a 0) micron sealed membrane?

I built my system as a 'closed' RO/DI system. I have an auto shutoff valve on mine as allowing the membrane to dry out is very bad. The membrane will auto-flush the filtered crud off itself, however I added a manual flush circuit to mine to prepare for larger batches. Other than that mine, constantly cycles as it feeds my frig for drinking water and ice maker needs.
 
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