Optimal Setting For 2 Radions Over 90 Gal

vargomat

New member
All,

I've had the Radions for a while now and recently moved to the Radion pro's. Since the Radions are so customizable, it's hard to do an apples to apples comparison without knowing the specifics of each tank.

I'm wondering if there is anyone out there currently utilizing 2 Radions over a standard 90 gallon that feels they have found the sweet spot that provides the best intensity light for a system housing an array of coral/livestock including SPS/LPS/Zoa/Paly/Clams/etc. I've had good success in my tank, but I'm guessing there is someone out there doing it better...

I would be interested, along with many others with 2 Radions over a 90 gal, why you think the setup/light intensity you're using is the optimal setting (good coral color and growth, maybe include a pic).

Also include the Radion model, distance above the water, Radion orientation (configuration front to back or horizontal, possibly include distance here too if not just centered), and what intensity you run (provide program if possible).

I understand that this is all subjective, but I'd love to hear other people's opinions and ideas. It's possible that I might not get any responses as this is a big request, but figured this would be a good place to brag about your tank and help the rest of us still trying to fine tune our Radions over a 90 gal.

Thanks in advance to all that reply!
 
Ummm, I hate to be that guy but there is no ideal settings. It really varies from tank to tank and a ton of variables go into a successful tank. Some tanks run a tad higher on nutrients so some spectrums will set off a bloom which wouldn't occur in another low nutrient tank.

Keys to success-
Use acclimation mode
Good Flow in a tank
Do not go over 9-10hrs of a photoperiod (nightmode does not count)
Keep your tank stable! Salinity, Alk, Ca, Temp. Too much change causes death.
Don't blame the lights if things are dying. Chances are something else is off.
 
Neokane - Thanks for the feedback. I may the setting you've suggested. Is this the setting you use on a pro model?

Estamherstbias - I appreciate your response and all your work providing the par charts for us Radion owners. I however do disagee. Many of us used similar 150 or 250 halide fixtures for years and had excellent results. From what I've read ecotech modeled the radion off of a 250 watt ushio bulb. Just because we have unlimited options doesn't mean that they should be used. I'm sure that all things being the same or close with regards to parms (many of us shoot for the standard reef levels), there is somewhat of a sweet spot for all radion owners using 2 radion pro's over a 90 gal (~8" above the water level).

If I were Ecotech I'd test and publish standard starting points for new users just getting acclimated to the new lights (based on tank size, light height, and inhabitants).

I'll post my current settings. My tank is fine, SPS grow like weeds and zoa's/paly's hit growth spirts and then die back... When I first started with the original Radions I had die off because I fried my coral, then I dialed back too far and had some more die off. I never lost an entire colony and my coral are thriving now, but id be open to trying new settings.
 
Neokane - Thanks for the feedback. I may the setting you've suggested. Is this the setting you use on a pro model?

Estamherstbias - I appreciate your response and all your work providing the par charts for us Radion owners. I however do disagee. Many of us used similar 150 or 250 halide fixtures for years and had excellent results. From what I've read ecotech modeled the radion off of a 250 watt ushio bulb. Just because we have unlimited options doesn't mean that they should be used. I'm sure that all things being the same or close with regards to parms (many of us shoot for the standard reef levels), there is somewhat of a sweet spot for all radion owners using 2 radion pro's over a 90 gal (~8" above the water level).

If I were Ecotech I'd test and publish standard starting points for new users just getting acclimated to the new lights (based on tank size, light height, and inhabitants).

I'll post my current settings. My tank is fine, SPS grow like weeds and zoa's/paly's hit growth spirts and then die back... When I first started with the original Radions I had die off because I fried my coral, then I dialed back too far and had some more die off. I never lost an entire colony and my coral are thriving now, but id be open to trying new settings.

Ecotech does have pre-made graphs. I will disagree about the lights being a super factor. If acclimated the corals can take it. The lights are only one variable in a sea of variables. Don't go over 10 hrs! I do agree that LED offers too many options. It is confusing for people. But I have lots of tanks and The same program across all tanks and where one coral thrives in one, if I move it to another it changes color or dies under the same location/par. That is why I think tank stability and water parameters seem to be more important. Yes, if you point a LED at an unacclimated coral you will get into trouble but if you get passed that other factors are in play.
 
To each there own... IMO there is a sweet spot based on tank size and inhabitants.

Attached is the program I'm using (hopefully it's the right file type). I like dark blues at night when I'm home from work and have time to see the tank. My aquarium is built in a wall in the basement and doesn't get a lot of natural light, so I start the program late and end it late giving me a good window to see it during mid/late day of the cycle.

Here's some specs:
Lights: Radion Pro (2 of them)
Light Orientation: Left to right (length ways)
Light Height: 11.5" above the water (Like halides since LED's basically have only 2 points of orgin, I find that I get better distribution through my larger SPS to lower light corals on the bottom if I crank it up and leave the lights high)
Light Spacing: 9.5" apart centered over the tank.

With regards to parms, I keep standard reef settings using an apex controller and bubble magus doser.
 

Attachments

Hello all,

I just got my first round of small coral frags:
-Pink Birdsnest
-Torch Coral
-Green Monti Digitata
-3 sets of Zo's
-GSP

I do not have any other corals in the tank. I was worried about reading how most people to add new corals end up bleaching them from their lighting being too intense at first. I have a regular 90g tank and started them off at 30% with each color at 100% for 8 hrs followed by moonlights in morning and night.

I was wondering how slowly should I be increasing the intensity? This is all new to me and i would hate to go too fast and burn them up.

I also have a question about the "acclimation timer" setting on ecosmart live. It says to pick your starting intensity. If my overall intesity is set for 30% right now which value and I setting in here? Lets say i want to go from 30-40% over a period of 3 weeks. How would i set that in there to have my lights do this for me?
 
Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of experience here. I acclimated my tank with the first release of Radions and the acclimation programming wasn't developed yet.

I'd say if you start at 40% and go up to 60%, you'd be fine. After that, you could ramp up to 70-90% at the most. I think you'd be better off stopping around 70-75% depending on what kind of spectrum you are using. Once acclimated, you can feel free to try the program I attached.

There are probably other threads that specifically address the acclimation phase. This thread was for Radion users, utilizing 2 Radions over a 90 to compare light intensities/spectums and their experience/results.

I hope this helps.
 
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