Osmolator 5107 Problems

Triton_Z

Member
Roger,

I have two 5107s giving me some headaches here recently.

The first is the newer design (LEDs under cover) and it's just showing no LEDs on at times. I've checked the power supply and it's got just around 11 Volts DC and powers the older 5107 I have, so I don't think I have a bad PS.

I have left it unplugged for a few days and it powered up today and worked for a few hours, but then stopped functioning again. The green LEDs flash momentarily when you first plug in power and pull power.

The 2nd 3155 is much older (LEDs above the front cover) and has been very reliable until recently. The controller appears to function properly, however when the pump is energized, the pump will gradually slow down until it stops. I am thinking of testing the pump with < 11 Volts DC to see if it works properly. If the fill cycle is short enough, the unit will work long enough to maintain levels.

Please let me know how you can help. Thanks.

Dan
 
Dan,

I would suspect the pumps in both instances or corroded wiring or connectors for the pumps. Try disconnecting the pumps and see if the controllers then work. (normal light displays for the water level). Check the pump connectors for any corrosion as well as the wire ends. If they are corroded, the wires need to be cut back to clean shiny copper and the terminals need to be replaced.

Another possibility is a corroded power connection if it is intermittent or loose contact.

On the older one I assume it is pre 2008, these limited the power to the pump to 800mA. In late 2008 we changed the pump, it needs more power as it has a dual seal. When overloaded the thermal safety overheats and seperates the contacts (slow stopping of the pump). The only way an old controller can run a new pump is with the original power supply which was 9V or switchable 9-12V and it must be set to 9V, and clean wiring, this will keep it below that 800mA limit.
 
Roger,

I unplugged the pump from the newer controller and the LEDs appear to work properly with the sensors. I measured the resistance of the pump side and it a dead short. Do you know the resistance of a new pump end?

Looks like the pump is shot. I checked my purchase date and it's actually 2 years today from BRS. January 27, 2012. /sigh.

Let me know if this would still fall under the 2 year warranty covered by the device. Thanks for your quick reply and assistance. I'll likely have to get another pump for the old one as it's served me well.

DH
 
The old controller appears to use the same 11 Volt DC supply. Does this mean I can purchase the current design pump being sold?
 
The power supply may have been replaced in the past, if it has the 800mA PTC, it cannot work with this power supply and a new pump, it will always slow to a stop as it is doing, you would need to find a 9V power supply in 800-1000mA. If you could post a picture of the circuit board, I could give a definitive answer.
 
Roger,

I purchased a replacement metering pump for the newer 5107 controller. The replacement pump's resistance measured 5.9 ohms. The pump was attached to the spring-loaded connectors and the controller does not function. Same problem.

If you disconnect the pump, the controller powers and LED status is accurate.

I suppose the controller is bad from the dead short from the previous motor failure. Let me know what else I can do. Thanks.
 
That can happen, a transistor can fry on the board, I would send them in, if I can't fix them I will discount replacements, include a note with return address and phone number-

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin, TX 78753
 
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