Osric's 220 Gallon

[Osric]

That's a bummer. But why do you need check valves?

I plan to run two Vectra M1 pumps as my returns, each plumbed to one side of the tank. I'm worried about a failure mode where one of the returns fails. Depending on the exact length of the run to the basement, a failure of one pump will create a siphon at 1,800 - 2,300 GPH while the single remaining pump can only pump about 1,200 - 800 GPH; as the head height increases siphon drain increases and pump throughput decreases.

My design for the plumbing has the two return lines connected to each other and isolated by ball valves, which can be switched to make just one pump or the other drive both return lines. This setup is also going to be plumbed into the drain and isolated from it by another valve. A photo will be worth a thousand words here and I'll post one when I've dry fit the plumbing...

In any event the idea of the check valves is that if one pump fails (and the check valve is working) then the other side will be able to keep the tank running until I get home and see the problem, at which point I can switch up the ball valves to drive both returns from one pump (at admittedly half the flow through my sump). A failure that siphons the water into the sump system would require both a pump and its corresponding check valve to fail, which isn't that likely if I inspect the check valves periodically.

What's the glass thickness on your tank?
Thanks

The tank is 3/4" glass eurobraced.

 

[Rybren]

Interesting concept on the returns.

I've never run a basement sump, but I have run into Mr. Murphy a number of times. He really likes it when we say 'it isn't likely to happen' :uhoh2: I think that he sees it as a personal challenge along the lines of a double-dog dare

I'm just messing with you.

In all seriousness, do you really need a dual return system? It is rather unusual.

I'm looking forward to seeing how you plumb this sucker.

 

[Osric]

In all seriousness, do you really need a dual return system? It is rather unusual.

It's definitely possible that I'm overcomplicating things. But as for Murphy, he struck twice on my last tank ultimately completely wiping it out - both times on vacations. This time around, I am trying to ensure that the tank can survive essentially unattended for at least a week no matter what single failure happens - accepting that if there are two failures, loss is probable. So dual returns are part of that - I can't really imagine both return pumps failing.

I received the check valves at last and started to plumb the return lines. In the first shot, you can see the tee that will feed the drain if I want to clean out the check valves; it's connected together so that I can put pressurized air in one side, open a valve to the drain, and blow the water out and then remove whatever is clogged for cleaning or replacement.

Then just beneath the drain tee is the left check valve, a tee for connecting to the right return, and a shutoff. Both the bottom and the top shutoff need to be closed if I want to clear the check valves of water for replacement. With so many true unions the whole thing is very easy to disassemble.

On the other side, the drain tee plumbs back into the lower line, so the water will have to go back across, up the other check valve, and into the drain when pressurized for cleaning. In normal operation the two horizontal valves shown here would be shut. If operating the left return from the right side, one of them needs to be open.

Finally here it is with the two sides connected. I ultimately added a valve in the long line across the back because it turns out to be very hard to insert and remove that pipe without putting a break in it, and it'll be even harder once the cabinet is built.

I also finished off the other return , connecting it over to the right side at the bottom. But as luck would have it, I was short one 3/4" elbow for doing the drain and I stopped there, still unable to test circulation for today. Tomorrow most of my plumbing effort will be in the basement room...

 

[Osric]

I did manage to get as far as wiring up the drain valve so that I can test my return plumbing. It's the valve on the ugly angle. PVC mates to ABS via threads to make it easy/simple. In the corner where you can't see it there is a tiny (1/2") spout for the drain so that I can attach a siphon hose for draining the quarantine tanks that I will be keeping under the display.

Though it's just dry-fit and so of course leaks a little, I was able to verify that each of my returns can drive both sides with the valves set appropriately, or I can drive one side at a time.

I didn't measure GPH, but a pleasing gush of water comes out of each return when both pumps are running. With just one pump running both sides it's clearly less flow than I'd like (I am aiming for a lot of turnover through the main sump to maximize surface skimming via the Calfo-style overflow).

So next step will be to glue the return plumbing and test the drain setup. I definitely won't get to that for a week, sadly.

 

[Osric]

Well I'm long overdue for an update, since it has taken until just now to finally get the cabinet built for the tank. Here's the tank pre-cabinet:

and here's the cabinet under construction:

and finally here's the (almost) finished cabinet:

So one issue is the venting. I'd meant for the cabinet to have three vents; one at the floor on the left, one above the tank on the left; and one above the tank into the cabinet which is on the right of the tank.

As it turns out there are only two vents at the moment. One vents into the dead space above the cabinet on the right - and therefore seems useless to me; one is as it is supposed to be above the tank on the left; and the lower vent is missing. I plan to keep my QT tanks under the display which is why I wanted a vent down there.

I'd be keen on people's opinions on how much I'll regret not having the planned venting.

Osric

 

[Osric]

Well while I'm awaiting people's opinions on the venting, I thought I'd also ask for feedback on my stocking plan.

I'd actually written 90% of this post last night and then a power outage sent it to the great bit-bucket in the sky ... fingers crossed for take #2!

First off, the hopefully non-controversial choices:

Fish:

Forktail Blenny (Meiacanthus atrodorsalis)
Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor)
Rainford's Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi)
Yellow Watchman Goby (Cryptocentrus cinctus), paired w/shrimp ideally
Clownfish pair (Ocellaris or Percula)

Inverts:

3 Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)
Bubble Tip Anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor)
Snails

Corals:

Blastomussa sp
Button Coral (Cynarina sp or Trachyphylia sp)
Candy Cane (Caulastrea sp)
Favia
Maybe 1 Fungia or Herpolitha
Galaxea
Hydnophora
Catalaphyllia
Frogspawn (Euphyllia sp)
Bubble Coral (Plerogyra or Physogyra sp)
Lobophyllia sp
Turbinaria sp


Potentially more controversial fish choices:

Harem of Flame Angels (3) (Centropyge loricula)
Regal Angel (Pygoplites diacanthus)
Pair of Mandarin Dragonets (Synchiropus splendidus)
Pair of Copperband Butterflies (Chelmon rostratus)

I've already started a thread about the angels because I'm worried about their compatibility.

The dragonets might compete with Rainford's for pods too much, though I am hoping that with a 220 gallon display plus a plan of about 100 gallons of sump pod production shouldn't be a problem if I am patient about introducing these fish.

The Copperband Butterflies are known difficult to deal with but again I am hopeful that if they come into a mature, stable reef my odds will be improved.

I am keen for advice on fish from this list that I should not include, or recommendations on order of introduction, or really any feedback at all!

Thanks

 

[Osric]

Either my livestock plan is so good that it cannot be critiqued or so bad that there's no point writing a response ... but I'm still interested in people's opinions on that and on the venting issue.

 

[dave.m]

Male mandarins are hard on their females. They do better with a harem (don't we all?) - at least two females per male.

Dave.M

 

[Osric]

Thanks Dave. I plan to add them last, and I'll try to remember your advice when I do...

 

[CrayolaViolence]

I have a copper band and have really found him to be one of the easiest fish I own.

 

[GQsmooth]

What size are your return holes in the tank?

And how much did that stand cost? It's stainless?

 

[Osric]

@CrayolaViolence - I hope I have your luck with the CBB!

@GQsmooth - to my frustration, the return holes are 1" in the tank, which is a bit big for the locline which comes in 3/4" maximum size. So the plumbing is reduced on either side of the bulkheads, which are 1" bulkheads to match the holes drilled in the tank, but it's essentially 3/4" returns.

The stand is black powder coated steel 2"x2" hollow tubing with plywood and styrofoam on top. It was just over 1,000 CAD.

 

[GQsmooth]

Ahh, yes mine is going to have 3/4" holes for the loc line coming from 1.5" pump returns.

Is 2"x2" overkill for the stand, I'm having mine made 1.5"x1.5" hollow tubing.

 

[Osric]

Honestly I don't know about the stand - it's just what Miracles made for me by default. I would imagine 1.5" square tubing would be fine too, a steel stand is rock solid. But ... I'm no structural engineer ...

 

[Kannin]

cleaner shrimp will hunt for pods, too.