Nice to know. My buddy tried vibrant too and it didn't work in his tank as well.
Ostreopsis Ovata - Dino - How to kill them?
- Thread starter Ostri
- Start date
Nice to know. My buddy tried vibrant too and it didn't work in his tank as well.
Tigé21v
Active member
It says you have a 150 gallon tank?I killed ostreopsis with ozone, two weeks with ORP around 450 mv
Before ozone:
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qhj3ThZxZJc" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
After Ozone: only diatoms
Did you hold the tank's ORP at 450?
How large of an ozone generator do you have? What kind/ how large of a reactor?What kind of flow through the reactor?
Thanks
Feel your pain. Since 2003 I have managed to overcome every problem quickly until this brown S&($ hit my tank.
I suffered a huge tank crash due to a cucumber getting stuck in the skimmer.. all 27 fish and about 80+ corals died in 8 hours..
(no need to explain how I felt)
restarted and read every last bit I could find so here is what I did.
I removed all the sand (read silicates could do it and the sand smelled 'weird' - I am quite weird like that. This definitely helped
then changed salt and did 80 liter water changes daily syphoning it out.. with it 2-3 days there has been a HUGE reduction.
running GFP and carbon seems to make it worse
running a skimmer without ozone seems to make it worse.. (ozone kills a lot of the bacteria though so once I stop the ozone the tank is worse of IMO)
bought Mexican turbo snails.. they eat this and is very good at it
Strangely, it's living thing my version covers, so I figure it uses the CO2 expelled, so got at much algae as my sump could take and running it 24 hours a day.. the growth exploded.
as stated before nutrients that is low doesn't seem to slow it down, but rather feed it.. dosing nitrate helped my corals (and the brown stuff)
playing a waiting came.. have lots so much new sps frags that I got at testers
this is the story so far..
good luck man
I suffered a huge tank crash due to a cucumber getting stuck in the skimmer.. all 27 fish and about 80+ corals died in 8 hours..
(no need to explain how I felt)
restarted and read every last bit I could find so here is what I did.
I removed all the sand (read silicates could do it and the sand smelled 'weird' - I am quite weird like that. This definitely helped
then changed salt and did 80 liter water changes daily syphoning it out.. with it 2-3 days there has been a HUGE reduction.
running GFP and carbon seems to make it worse
running a skimmer without ozone seems to make it worse.. (ozone kills a lot of the bacteria though so once I stop the ozone the tank is worse of IMO)
bought Mexican turbo snails.. they eat this and is very good at it
Strangely, it's living thing my version covers, so I figure it uses the CO2 expelled, so got at much algae as my sump could take and running it 24 hours a day.. the growth exploded.
as stated before nutrients that is low doesn't seem to slow it down, but rather feed it.. dosing nitrate helped my corals (and the brown stuff)
playing a waiting came.. have lots so much new sps frags that I got at testers
this is the story so far..
good luck man
mikeatjac
Active member
The single thing that help me the most was removing my sand bed. I was running t5s at the time and have switched to G4 pros but that was after the fact. I did get some tank water from some other successful tanks and added green water, pods large and small. Put some small fresh live rock in my sump. Got my spec.s as close to natural sea water as possible. I used no additives. After a week I saw huge improvements and after 3 weeks I could not find a trace of dinos.
On a side note, after the changes to my tank my orp did rise. So based on my experience I agree with Ed.
On a side note, after the changes to my tank my orp did rise. So based on my experience I agree with Ed.
ug.mac
New member
Ostreopsis Ovata - Dino - How to kill them?
This is what I did during the recent dino outbreak:
1. Blackout for 3 days WITHOUT covering any sides.
2. Dose H2O2 at 1ml per 2 gallon ratio at the same time for 5 days.
3. After the 3rd H2O2 dose, I increased NO3 with KNO3 to 20ppm.
4. Dose AF Bio S, AF ProBio F, MB7, MB Clean, KZ ZeoBak, KZ BioMate mix in KZ Coral Snow for 3 days straight on the 3rd day in the evening. AF ProBio F daily after.
5. Run 2 bulbs for 2 hours on the 6th day, then add 2 hours everyday until photoperiod reached 8 hours, then added additional 4 bulbs for 2 hours per day until 8 hours total.
6. No water change during the whole process.
Hopefully my experience can give you some ideas.
ug
This is what I did during the recent dino outbreak:
1. Blackout for 3 days WITHOUT covering any sides.
2. Dose H2O2 at 1ml per 2 gallon ratio at the same time for 5 days.
3. After the 3rd H2O2 dose, I increased NO3 with KNO3 to 20ppm.
4. Dose AF Bio S, AF ProBio F, MB7, MB Clean, KZ ZeoBak, KZ BioMate mix in KZ Coral Snow for 3 days straight on the 3rd day in the evening. AF ProBio F daily after.
5. Run 2 bulbs for 2 hours on the 6th day, then add 2 hours everyday until photoperiod reached 8 hours, then added additional 4 bulbs for 2 hours per day until 8 hours total.
6. No water change during the whole process.
Hopefully my experience can give you some ideas.
ug
Last edited:
acro-ed
Member
I just wanted to check back in (my long winded original post is on page 1) and state that it has been 6 months and I have not seen a single Dino since (periodically use loupe and microscope).
I am 100% convinced that this is a biologic/trophic imbalance and that you aren't going to "kill" the Dino's no matter how hard you try....you have to get the system back in balance with regard to the different "levels" of life in your tank (bacteria, micro-flora/fauna, etc.).
I am seriously glad to be rid of this, and I truly feel the pain of those that are in the midst of the battle.
-Ed
I am 100% convinced that this is a biologic/trophic imbalance and that you aren't going to "kill" the Dino's no matter how hard you try....you have to get the system back in balance with regard to the different "levels" of life in your tank (bacteria, micro-flora/fauna, etc.).
I am seriously glad to be rid of this, and I truly feel the pain of those that are in the midst of the battle.
-Ed
Update:
Thank everyone who have replied to this thread. My tank has been dino free since the end of Feb. The nutrients method succeeded against dino. I introduced more fish and started feeding more and more frequently. As a result, green algae started growing again for a few weeks and dino slowly disappeared. Later, green algae went away as the system stabilized. Corals got their colors back and started growing really fast. Alk started dropping fast and I had to restart dosing again. Everything was coming back to life and I've been very happy. After one year of struggles and problems with the new tank, it finally settled down. I definitely learned that reaching ULNS is just a bad idea for me; once the nutrient level reaches zero, things start dying and corals starving, as a result weed starting to grow. Ever since dino was gone, I've been feeding my fish more and keeping a strict schedule. Even though my nutrients are above zero, I have almost no green algae and new growth gets immediately eaten by my fish. This method also worked for some people I know locally who also got Ostreopsis. Just feed your fish and keep NO3/PO4 above zero so that natural competition can take its own course to control it.
Thank everyone who have replied to this thread. My tank has been dino free since the end of Feb. The nutrients method succeeded against dino. I introduced more fish and started feeding more and more frequently. As a result, green algae started growing again for a few weeks and dino slowly disappeared. Later, green algae went away as the system stabilized. Corals got their colors back and started growing really fast. Alk started dropping fast and I had to restart dosing again. Everything was coming back to life and I've been very happy. After one year of struggles and problems with the new tank, it finally settled down. I definitely learned that reaching ULNS is just a bad idea for me; once the nutrient level reaches zero, things start dying and corals starving, as a result weed starting to grow. Ever since dino was gone, I've been feeding my fish more and keeping a strict schedule. Even though my nutrients are above zero, I have almost no green algae and new growth gets immediately eaten by my fish. This method also worked for some people I know locally who also got Ostreopsis. Just feed your fish and keep NO3/PO4 above zero so that natural competition can take its own course to control it.
