OT: Best way to merge multiple pics for a panoramic view

[Mchava]

Ok folks ever since my trip to The Blue Ridge Mtn in Virginia ive been interested in doing large panoramic view of outlook spots. So I wanted to know what is the best way to make panoramic view with multiple pictures using photoshop. Here is my first try. Let me know what you think and also tip are appreciated. Mods if this is not ok please let me know
Mario

 

[Misled]

You look pretty close. The brightness/contrast doesn't quite match. Can you balance them while all the photos are on the screen? My version of elements wouldn't do that.

 

[BlueCorn]

You should always use a manual mode when shooting panoramas. I also avoid using a polarizer for panos.

It looks like you exposure is slightly different frame to frame.

 

[Mchava]

I was not able to get them too look the same. Id try to adjust one and it would be close but then something else was off. If you look closely as the mtn range it does not come together as good as it should. I have seen some shots that are amazing.

 

[Mchava]

Doug you might be right. I think I used AV mode and had to adjust the shots because it was either to dark or image was blurry. I did not have a tripod with me at that time since I would not fit in my check bag, but that will change. I am getting a better one by next week.

 

[megaspoot]

Use autostitch, it's free and really powerful.
http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html

 

[PSam]

In photoshop

File -> Automate -> Photomerge

 

[xtra-salty]

Not sure what camera you have, but I second using it in manual mode or the closest option to it. Set your exposure to the brightest part of the scene (or the section to your choosing depending on the mood you are trying to portray),lock it, and then take your shots from side to side, trying to overlap each picture around 20% to give the program enough detail to stitch (and to compensate for vignetting if applicable). Thats just a rough outline, as with anything its all about preparation, having good pictures to begin with will help alot (and be more rewarding at the end)

Heres a page with some tips too
http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/overview/en.shtml

 

[TitusvileSurfer]

 

[TitusvileSurfer]

I realize the above shot is not breath-taking, but it is a good, simple example to teach from.

1) Get a tripod head that can pivot on an X-axis without any Y-axis or Z-axis variation. There are many specialty heads for this purpose and if you’re serious about panoramics, you should get one...I just use my general-purpose Manfrotto 488 CR2.

2) If you are serious about panoramic shots, you will purchase a 20mm lens. I am not serious about them, so I settle for my 24-70 f/2.8 set to 24mm (I used 34mm in the above example...I am not sure why, I suppose I had a brain fart. 20mm is what you strive for).

3) Meter your shot in *manual mode*. I metered off the plants in the front of the house and backed off 2/3 of a stop.

4) Take your first shot a healthy distance to the left of your intended subject. A great deal will be cropped out depending on how many shots your actually take. Continue down the line taking a shot every 2/3 of a frame.

5) Edit your pictures (I didn't bother with PP at all in the above example...even though the shots were taken in RAW and you should always at least sharpen). Take care to edit every shot you take EXACTLY the same as the rest i.e. batch process.

6) Stitch the shots together, I used the software supplied free with Canon DSLR's, "PhotoStitch". This is a very easy to use program that does a fine job in my opinion. While I would likely use Photoshop in a "real panoramic", I like to use the easy Canon utilities for demonstrations as anyone who shoots Canon automatically has the same tools at their disposal right out of the box.

And you’re done! Easy as pie.

 

[Mchava]

TitusvileSurfer thanks, that awesome. I will try it out tomorrow, when I shoot some picture from the beach i go to.

 

[Mchava]

well here is my second attempt at making a panoramic view. I did the manual metering and shoot everything in manual mode. The only problem I have now is that I can see were the images are merged. Can some one help me out on this one. Here is what I talking about

 

[TitusvileSurfer]

It looks to me like you edited your images and made them all different. Notice the 2nd block over, it is darker throughout than the shots on either side.

 

[Mchava]

No, I know I edit them all the same way. Not only that but I used canons software and did a batch process just to make sure I did not screw it up. To me they all look the same the issue I am having is the dark lines where you see the picture come together. If you look at the lines they are all the same and look the same. Could this have something to do with the haze filter that I am using on the lens? Should I remove it and use no filter at all, just like beerguy suggested? Any help is appreciated. Oh and thanks for the tips TitusvilesSufer

 

[TitusvileSurfer]

No filters. The lines are just the transition from one shot to the next. The entire shot looks different from the others imo.

 

[IPT]

I haven't used any of the automated tools. Still do it all manually in PS. Using a manual exposure (as stated) is real important, avoid the polarizer too (like stated). Be sure you have a decent overlap too as with a wide lens often there is light fall off at the edges of the frame that can make it harder to stitch smoothly if you can't crop it out. In fact many recommend avoiding wide angles for stitching for this reason. Telephoto will allow more equal exposures since it will include less of the sky which normally has variations over a large degree os view.

Your biggest friend will be masking. if you don't know about this ability in PS take some time to learn about it. For me it is essential. Especially at hiding the transition parts and blending.

Here is an a image I just finished for my website (that should be launched soon). I took the shots a long time ago before I knew what I was doing. I made many mistakes regarding exposure, used a polarizer, etc. With a lot of work and masks it came out pretty good. WIth dead on exposures it's a cinch. This was 3 or 4 images and covered about a 240 degree view. Banding is because I saved it with low quality.

 

[IPT]

What I should have said was proper exposure (manual) is real important. A large overlap to smooth normal variations in tone that occur in large areas of sky (and allow cropping of the light fall off at the edges when using a wide angle lens) will make your life a lot easier. With masking you can make transition less linear and much less noticable if not invisible.

 

[Mchava]

ah, I see I forgot about masking in PS. DUHHHH, I guess its true if you dont use it you loose it. hahaha. I will try that shoot again but this time using masking and see how it comes out. Thanks IPT

 

[IPT]

sorry, one more thing. As I mentioned, the brightness of the sky is NOT equal across the lenght of the sky/horizon. In a lot of cases you actually have to use masking and curves or levels to balance them. Again masking is used to not affect the more even toned areas like the forground etc.

Enough said - here is a tutorial. I haven't read it but a quick glimpse of it revealed it has a lot of what I am talking about. HAve fun!

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/stitching.shtml

 

[TitusvileSurfer]

There is one other crucial thing I forgot to mention that I don't think IPT caught either. This should be common-since but turn *Auto Focus* off.