Overflow help...
- Thread starter Heelfiend
- Start date
tatuaje08
New member
Not true.
I know you guys are trying to help, but I am getting more and more confused. I have read and watched many youtube videos and still barely understand the basics of the design and what needs to go where with my setup. I just need advice on the quietest/easiest method to go with my tank. I have attached a picture of the tank. I do not want to drill unless absolutely necessary. Inside diameter of holes is 1 3/4"
Last edited:
oscarinw
New member
The return is seldom your source of noise. It's the drain and return pump that you want to worry as far as noise goes. If you want a silent system look into the 'herbie' drain system. It might actually work perfectly for you if you go with dual overflow. Just make 1 a little higher than the other. (Once you look into it you'll understand). As far as the pump goes, from reading, the Sicces, Eheims and the Waveline DC pumps seem to be the quietest around.
Good luck with things!
GroktheCube
New member
A top overflow box using a Herbie or beananimal drain setup is better than a bottom drilled on anyway. If you don't want to drill another hole, just use one as a siphon, one as an emergency, and run the return over the back.
IMHO, using an overflow without an emergency drain is begging for a flood.
IMHO, using an overflow without an emergency drain is begging for a flood.
And to do the emergency/siphon system I would simply point one elbow down and the other up inside the tank and internal weir box, correct? Would I combine the dual overflows before they drain into the sump?
shaggss
Active member
Yes that should be ok. Remember to add a gate valve on the primary drain and have the exit no more than 1" below the water line in the sump. DO NOT combine the two drains, this defeats the purpose of an emergency!
As a side note, I would have the return section of your sump in the middle with the skimmer and fuge at either end. Tee of the return line and run this to your fuge with and add a valve. This way you can control the flow through the fuge.
As a side note, I would have the return section of your sump in the middle with the skimmer and fuge at either end. Tee of the return line and run this to your fuge with and add a valve. This way you can control the flow through the fuge.
Okay. Thanks for the help. I am still new to all this. What is the reason for wanting to control the flow through the fuge? I'm guessing you want a smaller flow?
The overflow box I have been eyeing is 1200gph (from BRS) and the return pump is 951 GPH (Sicce syncra 4.0). Because I will be teeing off to the fuge, should I go for the higher pump at 1321GPH? If i have gate valves both after the return pump and in bewtween the overflow and sump I should be able to control the flow so GPH in = GPH out, right?
The overflow box I have been eyeing is 1200gph (from BRS) and the return pump is 951 GPH (Sicce syncra 4.0). Because I will be teeing off to the fuge, should I go for the higher pump at 1321GPH? If i have gate valves both after the return pump and in bewtween the overflow and sump I should be able to control the flow so GPH in = GPH out, right?
GroktheCube
New member
No need to gate the return, a 1" siphon can handle far more flow than any pump you're looking at. If you feel like getting really fancy, you could use a "coast to coast" overflow box running along the entire back top edge of the tank. Make sure you use a good silicone, like Dow Corning 795 to attach the overflow boxes if they are made out of acrylic. "Normal" pet store silicone does not bond acrylic to glass at all. DC 795 takes a few weeks to cure, but once it does, it bonds to acrylic pretty well. I was able to lift my 40 breeder sump off of the ground using a test strip of acrylic that met the glass for 4". I initially used flimsy HD acrylic baffles and pet store silicone, and they fell out in the sump within a week or two.
That design looks ok, but as others have said, put the refuge on one end. Given how small the sump is for the tank size, I'd honestly consider just forgetting the refugium. It won't be large enough to have a meaningful impact on the tank, and will leave you with less water in the return chamber. With such a tiny return chamber and such a large tank, if your ATO fritzes out, evaporation could take the water low enough that your pump would fry in a day or two. You'll also need room in the sump for heaters and the skimmer, and I severely doubt you'll be left with room for a fuge given how much room a skimmer suitable for a tank that size would take up.
If you can afford the extra $100, I'd seriously consider upgrading the sump to a 40 breeder. You will need at the very least 10 extra gallons of room in the sump if your siphon breaks on the return work and you get 1.5" of tank water plus what was in the plumbing in the tank. 15 gallons plus of empty space would be better. I'd hate to see you end up with a major flood because of a minor power failure.
That design looks ok, but as others have said, put the refuge on one end. Given how small the sump is for the tank size, I'd honestly consider just forgetting the refugium. It won't be large enough to have a meaningful impact on the tank, and will leave you with less water in the return chamber. With such a tiny return chamber and such a large tank, if your ATO fritzes out, evaporation could take the water low enough that your pump would fry in a day or two. You'll also need room in the sump for heaters and the skimmer, and I severely doubt you'll be left with room for a fuge given how much room a skimmer suitable for a tank that size would take up.
If you can afford the extra $100, I'd seriously consider upgrading the sump to a 40 breeder. You will need at the very least 10 extra gallons of room in the sump if your siphon breaks on the return work and you get 1.5" of tank water plus what was in the plumbing in the tank. 15 gallons plus of empty space would be better. I'd hate to see you end up with a major flood because of a minor power failure.
KeepNitReel
New member
Do this!
