Overflow Idea.. pls check it out.

I'm using the PVC overflow for nondrilled setup as previously mentioned, and I'm running at least 900gph through it. I feel it could handle more.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12127229#post12127229 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stugray


As for some of the comments:

"nope too low and what would happen if your power would go out"

Nothing will happen if the power goes out. It will not drain the tank.

I am sometimes amazed at the comments made when people dont understand basic physics. If you dont know how things work, dont comment.

Stu

Let's take a second and review "basic physics".

let's say you have a 125g tank. The "blueprint" you went out of your way to design shows the inlet of your overflow at a little lower than halfway down the tank, but I'll give you the benefit here and say it's only half way.

The power goes out.

Your return pump stops pumping.

60+ gallons (about 500 pounds of water, optimistaclly) is ABOVE the inlet for your overflow.

the water pressure alone will empty MOST of that water into (and out the top of) your sump.










But not all of it, because when it gets near the end, it'll break siphon. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12140452#post12140452 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twok2lcdcnc
Let's take a second and review "basic physics".

let's say you have a 125g tank. The "blueprint" you went out of your way to design shows the inlet of your overflow at a little lower than halfway down the tank, but I'll give you the benefit here and say it's only half way.

The power goes out.

Your return pump stops pumping.

60+ gallons (about 500 pounds of water, optimistaclly) is ABOVE the inlet for your overflow.

the water pressure alone will empty MOST of that water into (and out the top of) your sump.










But not all of it, because when it gets near the end, it'll break siphon. :D


Incorrect my good man! Water has whats called "gravitational potential energy" as it sits in the tank. Because the outside pipe RISES above the static level of the water in the tank, and because the tube is open to air (indicated by a half-full "T" at the top of the riser tube), there is no suction created (siphon) nor is the water able to resist gravity and go upward (gaining gravitational potential energy without the aide of a pump (or some other outside force doing "work" to make it rise) violates the Law of Conservation of Energy)

Basic Physics :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12140628#post12140628 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twok2lcdcnc
okay, if so, then how does this design work at all? And what are the benefits of doing one like that? Am I missing something here?

No offense to the OP, but I dont think this design WILL work well. The only benefit, was so that he would not have "clutter" in the tank.

I would opt for an external overflow box that would then have a standard Durso overflow tube.


BTW... If the standpipe was NOT open to the outside air, then, as you stated, the tank WOULD drain to the level of the bulkhead if the power went out.

Cheers!
 
As the pic in the OP shows, the level in the tank must be above the "Tee" in the outside portion of the pipe for any water to flow down the "outflow" pipe.

If you lower the water level in the pic just a few percent, the level in the outside portion of the pipe will be low enough that water will no longer be able to make it out of the "outflow" pipe, and the draining will stop.

Stu
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12140628#post12140628 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twok2lcdcnc
okay, if so, then how does this design work at all? And what are the benefits of doing one like that? Am I missing something here?

The design works because water seeks its own level. Basic physics :)

There are no real benefits for a fish tank that needs surface skimming. On the otherhand if we were trying to draw drinking water from below the surface of a scum covered pond, it would be perfect.
 
Maybe this will explain things a little better...
123kb4.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12141814#post12141814 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eznet2u
Maybe this will explain things a little better...
123kb4.jpg

That is exactly what was missing. The original posts didn't make the bulk head obvious. It just looked like it was going up and over the tank frame. This clears it up for everyone. Still, I don't like the idea of not surface skimming. That would be a deal breaker for me.


edit, sorry it was colotl's post that confused me. The original post actually show a very similar figure.
 
Do you guys have more info on the PVC overflow for nondrilled tanks? I assume there's not much surface skimming going on in this type of set up.
 
I tested the design on a plastic container and it works well...

the only problem is surface skimming... so Imma put a whole near the top and put a 1" 90deg elbow.. this will skim the surface and be done with it...

I will post a pic if needed.
 
That will not do nearly enough surface skimming to be effective... Also, I think you will find that the setup will be rather noisy, depending on the flow rate and pipe size.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12149400#post12149400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
That will not do nearly enough surface skimming to be effective... Also, I think you will find that the setup will be rather noisy, depending on the flow rate and pipe size.

That's what I figured. Bean (or anyone else), do you have any links on how to build an overflow for a non drillable tank? I have melve's link but his requires a router and bending of acrylic. I'm looking for a simple cut and glue build. Sorry, if I'm stealing the thread.
 
Back
Top