Overflow Leak at Bulkhead. HELP!?!?
- Thread starter iNsiNuASiAn
- Start date
RedEDGE2k1
Member
lordofthereef
One reef to rule them all
I would just grab a better gasket and give it a try. If it does nothing for you you can always return it. This thread is filled with the usual "this guy is wrong and I am right" nonesense that clutters RC as of late. CERTAINLY you will do no harm trying out what you consider to be a higher grade gasket. I doubt that you are too inept to "properly install" a bulkhead as, honestly, my four year old niece could probably manage it (well, maybe not tight enough, but you get what I mean - installing a bulkhead is NOT a hard concept).
RedEDGE2k1
Member
And here comes lordofthereef to counter all the usual "nonsense" with a good old fashioned dose of sarcasm, wit, and general bad attitude.
Ok Lord, we'll all agree that you have never screwed up a simple task by overlooking (or not even knowing about) fine details. You're obviously above that. But I'll be humble and admit that even with my BS in Building Construction from Auburn, years of general contracting experience, and lots of hands-on plumbing practice, that I too have dealt with my share of bulkhead leaks. People aren't born knowing which side to put the gasket on, to use teflon tape on the threads, etc. It's something people learn.
These forums are a great place to learn through others and seek help from the same; it's people like you that "clutter up" this fine learning/sharing medium.
Dustin
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
What is a "better" gasket? The gaskets supplied with the bulkheads are perfectly suitable for the purpose at hand. If and when it is determined that the gasket is at fault, then spending the time and money to purchase a new one would be a reasonable endeavor. However, from the context of this thread, there is no reason to beleive that the gasket is bad. Instead it would appear that the bulkhead is not properly installed.
When you troubleshoot a problem, usually the best methodology is to use a process of elimination that provides a logical YES/NO path to find and fix the problem. If you car will not start but it does crank, do you run out and replace the battery? Of course not. Do you replace the tires? Of course not. You choose a logical path to troubleshoot the problem. First you check to see that there is spark at the plugs, then you check for fuel at the throttle body or carb... then you...
While a bulkhead is not a complicated piece of equipment, it can easily be installed improperly. Most leaks are the result of improper installation, not bad gaskets.
Any lastly... there is almost always a right way and a wrong way to do something and there is most certainly good advice and bad advice. I think you will find a bit of both in this thread
neoh74
New member
The hole is the bottom with the crack to the right.
Tank is on a solid top stand with foam core underneath. Right now im leaning towards filling crack and leveling with 5200, installing new bulkheads, then sealing the whole bottom and around the bulkheads with silicone.
https://ibb.co/hWADQA
https://ibb.co/hWADQA
I would replace the bulkhead.
If the bulkhead is already Glued to PVC, buy a heatgun from Home Depot and heat the threads of the bulkhead. The trick will be keeping the glass cool.
I've replaced many PVC items with heating the PVC. I have also used a heatgun to give me a little more angle on a 45* pvc so there was zero pressure on the return bulkhead.
If the bulkhead is already Glued to PVC, buy a heatgun from Home Depot and heat the threads of the bulkhead. The trick will be keeping the glass cool.
I've replaced many PVC items with heating the PVC. I have also used a heatgun to give me a little more angle on a 45* pvc so there was zero pressure on the return bulkhead.
ostrow
It's Dr. Goodluck Himself
Holy crap! "What could possibly go wrong?"
True Union Ball Valve just after the bulkhead. Always always always!!!
I'm sorry, I missed the reason for your comment?
ostrow
It's Dr. Goodluck Himself
It may work for you but I would not recommend to others using high heat tools.like heat guns or blown torches etc on reef tank plumbing and near glass. Even with the caveats.
Using TU ball valves is a much safer and more straightforward way to allow easy removal of plumbing sections including bulkheads.
Using TU ball valves is a much safer and more straightforward way to allow easy removal of plumbing sections including bulkheads.
Just realized this thread was created in 09 Lol.
I gave a suggestion based on the OP's info and what I have done. From what I read, the plumbing was already in place and no TU ball was near the bulkhead. Even then, the area of concern was at the Bulkhead not anywhere past.
