Overflow type question

Spiffyguy

New member
SO I am almost done gluing on all the baffles for the "Super Sumpâ"žÂ¢" on the 55 and I need to cut out the actual over flow hole. I plan on putting an overflow box on the tank side of the false wall with teeth to surface skim but I wanted opinions on how big I should make the hole and if I should make it grated like on the nano cube. Here is a shot of the final layout.

55_intsump_v3.jpg


Over flow is in upper left. Not sure how deep to make it. There will be 2 MJ900s for returns. I guess while I am here how big do you think I should make the skimming box? I can attach it to the side of the tank too, sort of a corner overflow design. Anyway kick it around and post up some ideas. oh also those numbers are close but not perfect.
 
I'd love to help, But I think I'm confused. Are you drilling your main tanks overflow holes?? Plus I've never really seen a Nano tanks overflow system so I'm lost??
 
oh sorry. I figured every knew about the crazy all in one 55 I was making. I will have the left 7 inches of the tank sectioned off like a built in sump. WIll ahve remora hang on skimmer and such. it will be better than my 24 gallon :). Anyway the pic I posted is looking down the length of the tank from the left side, through the sump and into the tank. So the overflow/entrance to the sump will be in the back left corner. Travel through the maze I got hit some cheato and head in the center where 2 MJ900s will shoot the water back out into the tank. I may get either a MJ mod or one of those slick new Hydor pumps if I need more water movement.
 
I'm not sure I understand the set up but, with this arrangment do you really need a box for the overflow? Could you just let it run right into the sump section over the false wall with either a flat cut out or a weir comb?
 
yeah I guess I could do that. I wasn't sure how big to cut the entrance through the false wall. I need to fresh water test it and make sure the thing holds water...

But I could just cut teeth in the false wall. How deep and wide should I make the teeth? I have 2 MJ400s to test right now. I need to order the MJ900s when I get a heater and some remaining in tank plumbing supplies. The 1st part of the sump is just under 4 inches. So that is where I will be making the cuts.

I am gluing the last baffle on now so I will dry fit and take a pic so you can get a better view.
 
I am a hurrying.

IMG_5350.jpg


Ignore the crappy DIY job. This will get a nice coat of black paint before it gets sealed into the tank. I can take a shot of my nano cube sump entrance too if you want to see that. I will have a remora inputting and outputting from this first sump chamber too.
 
are you going to have it over flow both the right and left side?

Edit: the one thing I don't understand is how would you get water to the right side if you only have an over flow on the left side where the skimmer is?

Why not just get a piece of black acrylic to put on the back wall that will probably last long than paint, and cut it out.. I think stupid can get a piece of Black PVC for you 1/8" or 1/4" then cut it out side the tank and slip it in. the water pressure would hold it against the wall.
 
over flow is only on the right side in the pic above left in the lay out. The right side in the layout will have some cheato with subemerisble lights, 10 watts. ninjafish used those lights on his cube on the desk tank and it worked really well for him.

The white tape is my 7 inches from the back mark. I can either knock some teeth in it or cut a chunk out and attach an overflow box to it. I think either way should work just not sure what may be quieter. I want to make sure I get some good surface skimming though.
 
I would cut it out flat, even, or just a tad lower than the plastic lip bottom of the tank top trim. Teeth will give more disturbance and cause additional noise. I would also round the cut edge with a file or sand it round for smoother flow into the sump.
 
ok so you saying just a flat entrance and 1/4 inch below water line? I guess with skimmer I don't need to worry too much about getting oxygen in the water then. The top will be sort of open. I will put a hood on but that is in "phase 2" of the build :)
 
Well I'm not sure about 1/4 inch. It's tough to figure how high the wate will actually be. it will depend some on the amount/flow and some on the depth of the cut-out. I just hate seeing the water line and light seaping out under the trim once it's running. Thats why I said just a "tad" - perhaps 1/8 inch? I don't really know how to guide you on that aspect. As far as oxygenation, yes, your skimmer will do that fine IMO. I read most of the O2 exchange occurs at the water/air interface so as long as the surface moves it will exchange gas. You'll be fine.
 
yeah I would hate to see the water line too. I will make a slight cut and then test it out with the 400s. I know the 900s will increase the flow but it will give me an idea on how it looks as far as movement. If I need to add a piece all the way across the false wall to raise it slightly I can do that too. Shouldn't look too ghetto.
 
Yep! That was going to be my other suggestion, Cut it down 1/2 to 1 inch and mount a seperate piece with a thumb screw to be able to adjust the "gate" up and down once it's done. Sounds like you're all over it now. More pics when you get it cut?
 
Yea just cut out your own teeth or lower the top line of it so it can overflow.

Also, I'd upgrade those MJ 900s. Look at maybe larger Rio's or MJ 1200's.

JMO.

What's going to be on the other end of the tank? Any powerheads?
 
I went with the 900s because they are less wattage so less heat. If I need more movement I will get one of those new streams from hydor and throw that on the other end. I could add 2 if I need to but I don;t think I will if I am mainly doing softies and some LPS.

Lonnie. The water will enter the left chamber through the overflow. Go over some filter or carbon if I need it and hit the skimmer or it will travel under the middle chamber and into the right with cheato. Then through a bubble trap and into the center. The MJs are on a T and will go to outlets on either side. Top set of outlets will have spinning Hydors and the bottom just have a flare nozzle. Both top and bottom will have a few sections of loc line to make them positional.
 
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