Overstocking a Nano...
- Thread starter Talfish
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Rosseau
New member
I suppose there would be a limit, via respiration processes and the oxygen available in the water and CO2 increases.... yet respiration and photosynthesis will counter each other. I'm sure this question is coral specific.
If you had too many respirating organisms (at night) in a small amount of water I guess they could cause large swings in this part of the water chemistry.
I'm not sure if that point is going to be reached though in a nano. Any one else have more concrete answers to this one?
If you had too many respirating organisms (at night) in a small amount of water I guess they could cause large swings in this part of the water chemistry.
I'm not sure if that point is going to be reached though in a nano. Any one else have more concrete answers to this one?
jacksonpt
New member
Practicly speaking, no. In theory yes, there is a limit, but in actuality, no. The biggest problem you'll run into is corals "competing" with each other for space. Not all corals get along well with other corals which can affect their health/happiness. As long as you are careful about that you'll be fine.
Yes, oxygenation is important, but if you are running an overflow of some sort and have adequate surface agitation you'll be fine.
Yes, oxygenation is important, but if you are running an overflow of some sort and have adequate surface agitation you'll be fine.
Talfish
New member
Ok... I'm not using a skimmer on my 12g Aquapod but, I am using carbon in the last chamber before the return pump area.
I understand the "coral warfare" issue very well
What I am considering is housing several varieties of leather frags in there for a while. I wasn't sure if having too many "leathers" in a nano would be a problem.
Thanks
I understand the "coral warfare" issue very well
What I am considering is housing several varieties of leather frags in there for a while. I wasn't sure if having too many "leathers" in a nano would be a problem.Thanks
Sorry, don't have them, but it seems that Sarcophyton and Sinularia are quite big for 12 g, you'll need to frag, and frag, and frag... And, as I had read, sinularia are one of the most active in chemical warfare.
Why I'm telling this: I acquired branching hammers and frogspawn as a suitable for 6g nano, well - they expanded too big in a few months; nice 3" doughnut brain became 7.5" in a few months...
And brain-type LPS started to look better in a separate tank, without soft corals and filter feeders, could be coincidence, of course.
If you just like leathers - it's your choice, but if you are looking for low light durable corals - these did well in my 6g Nano-Cube with 18W: white xenia, green star polyps (on the top, close to the lights, and surround it by LR rubble or shells from dollar store, to prevent spreading on surrounding rock), neon-green candycane (other candycanes are more light-sensitive and have longer tentacled, this one is harmless, IMHE), hairy mushroom with green base and pinkish "hair" (will be 2.5 in in a year), bright red mushrooms will be also OK, only closer to the lights. And, as I said, hammers (the cold green with compact heads is preferable to yellowish-green with shapeless heads) and frogspawn (green body, pink tips) too, at mid-level or higher - only place them that flow will not move their tentacles onto other corals, onto left slope, may be.
And fluorescent-blue bushy algae Ochtodes too.
Why I'm telling this: I acquired branching hammers and frogspawn as a suitable for 6g nano, well - they expanded too big in a few months; nice 3" doughnut brain became 7.5" in a few months...
And brain-type LPS started to look better in a separate tank, without soft corals and filter feeders, could be coincidence, of course.
If you just like leathers - it's your choice, but if you are looking for low light durable corals - these did well in my 6g Nano-Cube with 18W: white xenia, green star polyps (on the top, close to the lights, and surround it by LR rubble or shells from dollar store, to prevent spreading on surrounding rock), neon-green candycane (other candycanes are more light-sensitive and have longer tentacled, this one is harmless, IMHE), hairy mushroom with green base and pinkish "hair" (will be 2.5 in in a year), bright red mushrooms will be also OK, only closer to the lights. And, as I said, hammers (the cold green with compact heads is preferable to yellowish-green with shapeless heads) and frogspawn (green body, pink tips) too, at mid-level or higher - only place them that flow will not move their tentacles onto other corals, onto left slope, may be.
And fluorescent-blue bushy algae Ochtodes too.
Light: 18W combo power compact bulb (lamp?), 9W from them actinic, other 9W - 10,000K:
Tank is in southern room and receives may be 1 hr of direct sunlight in the winter (this is Canada, not California, it's easier) .
Was tried for a couple of months as non-photosynthetic tank:
Then had to find place for frags:
Close-ups:
Note: under 27W daylight spiral bulb from hardware store (6,500K, in desktop lamp) more corals can grow well (these were in basement, no sunlight). Anthelia and red mushrooms were not happy under 18W combo. Trachyphillias are dead now - I can't keep them in any tanks, other brains are perfectly OK.
And this Nano-Cube has water far from perfect (nitrates and, sometimes, phosphates).
Last edited:
Talfish
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9112430#post9112430 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dendro982
My apologies for invasion - not much people are keeping such low light.
None needed, I think there was a little confusion... my Pico tank is only 1.5Gallons and my Nano is 12G... so (not that watts/gallon is a true measure) I have: 12w/gal on the pico and 4.5w/gal on the nano.
I was considering moving some leathers to my nano but put them in the pico instead, they're doing great.
BTW, your pics look Great!
Tal
