P04 and bubble algae

Zopilote

New member
I've had my 125 gallon tank up and running for about six
months. I have a big P04 problem due to use of tap water
when I first filled it. Since then I've been using RO/DI water
and a P04 reactor. Even tho I've completely rid the tank of
tap water and the reactor is still running, the P04 is >0.03.
Now there is a bubble algae bloom starting. The reactor
has been running about a month, with frequent media
changes.

The only livestock in the tank are two damsels and a few
snails. I wanted to wait until the water chemistry is good
prior to stocking the tank. Except for the P04, the water
chemistry is within normal limits...NH3, N02, N03, etc.

Is the P04 level stimulating the bubble algae? I have not
seen any of it until the last week or so. Water changes
are routine...15% weekly.

Comments appreciated.
 
Phosphate is a macronutrient, so its presence in the water column will encourage algal growth. I'd probably get a second opinion on the phosphate test kit, just on general principles.

How much media is in the reactor, and what brand is being used?
 
I've found that lowering phosphate does very little to stop bubble algae growth. I just remove it by hand/siphon. I run at .01 (Hanna).
 
Thanks for your help. I use Warner PHOSar HC. There's
probably 100-150 grams in the reactor.

The RO/DI water tests negative for PO4 but there is always
a slight blue hue to the tank test water, using the Salifert test
kit. It seems to stay the same color, no matter how long I
run the reactor or how many water changes I do.

I'm beginning to wonder if I should get rid of the substrate...
the aragonite...and start over. Could it be loaded with
phosphate from the start, when I used tap water.

I'm paying the price for mistakes made when I started.
 
I always need some emerald crabs to rid your tank of bubble algae. They do seem very territorial and stay in some area though.

I have a Hanna meter too.

Please consider how 0.03 ppm as PO4 is obtained also. For example when I take RO-DI water with 0 conductivity I can zero the meter and then add the Hanna low range reagent and will get 0.04 reading. This indicates(atleast to me) that the the DI with reagent is a better way to zero.
 
Thanks to all for your thoughts. The reactor has been
running for about two months.

I use Instant Ocean for the salt.
 
A month or two does not really allow for time to absorb all the po4 that could be in the tank. Also you dont need to change phosar HC "frequently" and you are most likely tossing it out well before its used up.
 
That's one of the reasons I made the investment on a Hanna in the first place. It's an expensive tool, but inexpensive given the amount of RowaPhos I was wasting due to it not being fully used. It was a guessing game as to when to replace it, but isn't anymore ;). I've been going about 3 months or so between swaps.
 
other thoughts to limit phosphates are to make skimmate a little wetter and feed in the evening after lights are off, to allow time to skim before light is present again.

I run TLF Phosphate filter with 2/3 DrFosters Brand Ironoxide/hydroxide and and 1/3 Purigen. Petco does a clearance once a year and I buy the shelf for 3$ per bottle. I do see a noticable clarity improvement when I start Purigen. I alternate it with remaining carbon I have.

When I started the local fish store, now an LA ditributor, asked me to try feeding nori and frozen foods. I suspected they were right when they said the next door asian store have nori cheap.

After 8 years I struggle with cyano growing on the rocks a bit. A few times a year I turn off lights, and do a 30% water change right after. The algae really suffers during this period. I also do this to keep a potential tan hydroid from spreading too much.

I suspect the lights out period will become more prevalent in hobby, as it is simple and very effective.
 
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